We share Amigurumi organic crochet toys free patterns with you. You can knit amigurumi christmas gnome free pattern with pleasure.

Abbreviations:

SC – single crochet

İNC – increase

DEC – decrease

CH – chain

SLST – slip stich

CHRISTMAS GNOME

BODY AND HEAD

1 Round: Make a magic ring

2 Round: 6 SC

3 Round: 1 increase X 6 = 12

4 Round: (1 SC, 1 increase) X 6 = 18

5 Round: (2 SC, 1 increase) X 6 = 24

6 Round: (3 SC, 1 increase) X 6 = 30

7 Round: (4 SC, 1 increase) X 6 = 36

8 Round: (5 SC, 1 increase) X 6 = 42

9 Round: (6 SC, 1 increase) X 6 = 48

10 Round = 48 SC (In this round only the stitch is knitted at the back)

11 Round: (5 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 56

12 Round: (6 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 64

13 Round: (7 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 72

14 Round: 72 SC

15 Round: (8 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 80

16 Round: 80 SC

17 Round: (9 SC, 1 increase) X8 = 88

18 Round: 88 SC

19 Round: (10 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 96

Round 20/21/22/23/24/25/26/27/28/29/30/31/32/33 Rounds = 96 SC

34 Round: (22 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 92

35 Round: 92 SC

36 Round: (21 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 88

37 Round: 88 SC

38 Round: (20 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 84

39 Round: 84 SC

40 Round: (19 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 80

41 Round: 80 SC

42 Round: (18 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 76

43 Round: 76 SC

44 Round: (17 SC, 1 decrease) X4 = 72

45 Round: 72 SC

46 Round: (16 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 68

47 Round: 68 SC

48 Round: (15 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 64

49 Round: (14 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 60

50 Round: (13 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 56

51 Round: (12 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 52

52 Round: (11 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 48

53 Round: (10 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 44

54 Round: (9 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 40

55 Round: (8 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 36

56 Round: (7 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 32

57 Round: (6 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 28

58 Round: (5 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 24

59 Round: (4 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 20

60 Round: (3 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 16

61 Round: (2 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 12

62 Round: (1 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 8

63 Round: 1 decrease X 4 = 4

Close and leave thread to sew

POCKETS

EVERYTHING THIS POCKET WORK BEGINS WITH A

AIR CHAIN ​​AND END WITH A PAST POINT

ATTENTION DO NOT FORGET THIS BECAUSE THEY WILL NOT BE WRITTEN IN THE ROUNDS

1 Round: the strand behind the 48 stitches left on ROUND 10 is taken

2 Round: (5 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 56

3 Round: (6 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 64

4 Round: (7 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 72

5 Round: (8 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 80

6 Round: (9 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 88

7 Round: (10 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 96

8/9/10/11 Rounds = 96 SC

12 Round: (11 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 104

13/14/15/16 Rounds: 104 SC

17 Round: (12 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 112

18/19/20/21 Rounds = 112 SC

22 Round: (13 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 120

23/24/25/26 Rounds = 120 SC

27 Round: (14 SC, 1 increase) X 8 = 128

28 Round: 128 SC

29 Round: CHANGE WHITE COLOR AND MAKE A RETURN OF

TERMINATION AS YOU LIKE IT (128 SC).

. For the design of the auxiliary bags, we will have to perform the following processes ..

• If we are going to add some exterior detail to the gnome, we must do it now, because when we close the bags, it cannot be incorporated … (we add a bunny …)

• We fix with pins the point where we will begin to fix the central bag:

We will follow the instructions according to the following photos:

(the thread serves as a guide, to know where we have to go sewing the pockets, then we remove it later …)

(We will try to compensate the pockets, so that you do not get unbalanced the gnome and have different pocket sizes …)

(Nor should we forget on the side that we will place the handyman, we should leave them without a hole, so that it facilitates their sewing to the body….)

EYES White

They are not done in continuous turns, you have to turn the work (that’s why always we leave 1 cad in the air)

1 Round: 6 chains and one in the air, go around the work

2 Round: 1 increase, 4 SC 1 increase = 8

3 Round: 1 increase, 6 SC 1 increase = 10

4 Round: 1 increase, 8 SC 1 increase = 12

5 Round: 1 increase, 10 SC 1 increase = 14

6 Round: 1 increase, 12 SC 1 increase = 16

7 Round: 1 increase, 14 SC 1 increase = 18

8 Round: 18 SC

9 Round: 1 increase, 16 SC, 1 increase = 20

11/10/12/13 Rounds: 20 SC, 1 air chain = 20

14 Round: 1 SC, 1 decrease, 14 SC, 1 decrease, 1 SC, 1 air chain = 18

15 Round: 1 SC, 1 decrease, 12 SC, 1 decrease, 1 SC = 16

Close the job.

give 1 SC around the entire eye, to close all the pts ..

We fix the eyes with pins, in the center of the egg, before sewing them …

• We start sewing the eyes on the head, and leave a hole, where we will put the filling…

• Subsequently, we pass black strand, to perform the division of the eyes, lightly frowning, to give volume … Also, we will pass through the outer orbit of the eyes, to give depth …

BIGOTS X 2 WHITE

They will be done in a spiral, in continuous rounds….

1 Round: magic ring

2 Round: 6 SC

3y4 Rounds: 6 SC

5 Round: (2 SC, 1 increase) X 2 = 8

6 Round: (3 SC, 1 increase) X 2 = 10

7 Round: (4 SC, 1 increase) X 2 = 12

8 Round: 12 SC

9 Round: (1 increase X 2), 10 SC = 14

10 Round: 14 SC

11 Round: 1 SC, (1 increase X 2), 11 SC = 16

12 Round: 16 SC

13 Round: 1 SC, 1 increase, 2 SC, 1 increase, 11 SC = 18

14 Round: 1 SC, 1 increase, 4 SC, 1 increase, 11 SC = 20

15/16 Rounds = 20 SC

17 Round: 1 SC, 1 decrease, 4 SC, 1 decrease, 11 SC = 18

18 Round: 1 SC, 1 decrease, 2 SC, 1 decrease, 11 SC = 16

19 Round: (2 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 12

20 Round: 2 SC, 1 decrease, 4 SC, 1 decrease, 2 SC = 10

21 Round: 5 decreases = 5

• Fix the whiskers with pins, under the eyes, and sew them to the head …

PINK COLOR NOSE

It will be done in a spiral, in continuous rounds …

1 Round: magic ring

2 Round: 6 SC

3 Round: 6 increases = 12

4 Round: (2 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 16

5 Round: (7 SC, 1 increase) X 2 = 18

6/7 Round = 18 SC

8 Round: (7 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 16

9 Round = 16 SC

10 Round: (2 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 12

11 Round: 6 decreases = 6

Leave thread to sew to the head later …

Fix it with pins…. And then sew it …

MOUTH

It will be done in a spiral, in continuous rounds …

1 Round: magic ring

2 Round: 6 SC

3 Round: 6 increases = 12

4 Round: 12 SC

5 Round: (5 SC, 1 increase) X 2 = 14

Close and leave thread to sew it later….

EARS-x 2

It will be done in a spiral, in continuous rounds …

1 Round: magic ring

2 Round: 6 SC

3 Round: 6 increases = 12

4 Round: (3 SC, 1 increase) X 3 = 18

5/6/7/8 Rounds = 18 SC

Close and leave thread… Fix them to the head with pins …

PUPILS X 2

• Yes, you don’t want to embroider the pupils, you can make them in felt, and stick it to the little face … See the photos …

HAT

It will be done in a spiral, in continuous rounds …

With white it starts

1 Round: magic ring

2 Round: 6 SC

3 Round: 6 increases = 12

4 Round: (1 SC, 1 increase) X 3 = 18

5 Round: (2 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 24

6 Round: 24 SC

7 Round: (3 SC, 1 increase) X 6 = 30

8/9/10 Rounds = 30 SC

11 Round: (3 SC, 1 decrease) X 6 = 24

12 Round = 24 SC

13 Round: (2 SC, 1 decrease) X 6 = 18

14 Round: (1 SC, 1 decrease) X 6 = 12

15 Round: 6 decreases = 6

CHANGE COLOR TO RED

16 Round: 6 increases = 12

17/18/19/20 Rounds = 12 SC

21 Round: (2 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 16

22/23/24/25 Rounds: 16 SC

26 Round: (3 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 20

27/28/29/30 Rounds: 20 SC

31 Round; (4 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 24

32/33/34 Rounds: 24 SC

35 Round: (5 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 28

36/37/38 Rounds: 28 SC

39 Round: (6 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 32

40/41/42 Rounds: 32 SC

43 Round: (7 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 36

44/45 Rounds: 36 SC

46 Round: (8 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 40

47/48 Rounds: 40 SC

49 Round: (9 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 44

50 Round: 44 SC

51 Round: (10 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 48

52 Round: 48 SC

53 Round: (11 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 52

54 Round: 52 SC

55 Round: (12 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 56

56 Round: 56 SC

57 Round: (13 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 60

58 Round: (14 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 64

59 Round: (15 SC 1 increase) X 4 = 68

60 Round: (16 SC 1 increase) X 4 = 72

61 Round: (17 SC 1 increase) X 4 = 76

62 Round: 76 SC

63 Round: 76 SC + 1 cad

CHANGE WHITE COLOR

64/65/66 Rounds: 76 SC

67 Round: (18 SC, 1 increase) X 4 = 80

68/69/70 Rounds: 80 SC

Close ….

Fit the cap to the gnome between Rounds 64/70 and sew some stitches …

SHOES X 2

It will be done in a spiral, in continuous rounds …

1 Round: Magic Ring

2 Round: 6 SC

3 Round: 1 increase X 6 = 12

4 Round: (1 SC, 1 increase) X 6 = 18

5 Round: (2 SC, 1 increase) X 6 = 24

6 Round: (3 SC, 1 increase) X 6 = 30

7 Round: (4 SC, 1 increase) X 6 = 36

8/9/10/11/12 Rounds = 36 SC

13 Round: (7 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 32

14/15 Rounds = 32 SC

16 Round: (6 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 28

17 Round = 28 SC

18 Round: (5 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 24

19 Round: (4 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 20

20 Round: (3 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 16

21/22/23/24 Rounds = 16 SC

25 Round: (2 SC, 1 decrease) X 4 = 12

26 Round: 6 decreases = 6 SC

Close and leave thread to sew

Later we will sew them to the body….

HANDS X 2

It will be done in a spiral, in continuous rounds …

• Hands are made of body color…. They are done finger to finger, and

later we will join them, until forming the hand …

We start by making the fingers (3 independent fingers):

1 Round: Magic Ring

2 Round: 6 SC

3 Round: 5 SC, 1 increase = 7

4/5/6 Round: 7 SC

Now we will make the thumb:

1 Round: Magic Ring

2 Round: 6 SC

3 Round: 5 SC, 1 increase = 7

4/5 Round: 7 SC

We will join all the fingers with the next round… .. see the photos…

Prepare it with the ends in this position …

7/8/9 Round: 17 SC

10 Round: 1 SC, (2 SC, 1 decrease) x 4 = 13

11 Round: 1 SC, (1 SC, 1 decrease) x 4 = 9

11 Round: 1 SC, (1 decrease) x 4 = 5 Fill and close the hand ..

Round 9 …

Without Thumb With the thumb

• Sew it to the sides, where they will be very tight to the body….

THE ORNAMENT THAT GOES FORWARD EVERYONE DOES THE ONE YOU LIKE THE MOST.

I hope they do and they have very nice KISSES

The post Christmas Gnome Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

You can find the best quality patterns in the amigurumi world for free here. In this content, we shared a hairika amigurumi clown pattern.

THE CHARLATAN CLOWN

Material:

4 mm hook, standard needle, filler, pair of trouser buttons and eyes of mm pressure.

Stamen:

A. Stamen Beige or pale pink (head, ears and hands).

B. Red Stamen (Nose).

C. White Stamen (Mouth).

D. Purple Stamen (Embroidery of the mouth, arm and body)

E. Pink Stamen (Cheeks)

F. Light blue yarn (hat)

G. Green Stamen (Pants).

H. Orange Stamen (Arm and body).

I. Yellow Stamen (Neck)

J. Navy Blue Stamen (Shoes)

Abbreviations:

R — row

ch — chain

sc — single crochet

inc — increase

dec — decrease

BLO — back loop only

[…] – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row

(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

HEAD:

Row 1: Make a 6SC ring with yarn A.

Round 2: 6İNC 12 Sc

Row 3: [1SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 18 Sc

Row 4: [2SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 24 Sc

Row 5: [3SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 30 Sc

Row 6: [4SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 36 Sc

Row 7: [5SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 42 Sc

Row 8: [6SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 48 Sc

Row 9: [7SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 54 Sc

Row 10: [8SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 60 Sc

Row 11 to 25: Knit sc

Put on button or snap eyes on round 17 leaving 5 stitches between them.

Row 26: [8SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 54 Sc

Row 27: [7SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 48 Sc

Row 28: [6SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 42 Sc

Lap 29: [5SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 36 Sc

Lap 30: [4SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 30 Sc

Lap 31: [3SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 24 Sc

Bind off with 1SL-ST and fill.

NOSE:

Row 1: Make a 6SC ring with yarn B.

Round 2: 6İNC 12 Sc

Row 3: [1SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 18 Sc

Row 4 and 5: Work sc.

Round 5: 9DEC 9 Sc

Bind off with 1SL-ST leaving a strand to join the head and fill in. Attach a point under the eyes to the head.

MOUTH:

Make 26CH with yarn C, 3DC together in the third CH from the hook, [1DC, 1DCDEC] 7 times, 1DC, 6DC together in the next stitch, continue working on the other side of the chain. 22DC, 3DC together at the last point. Bind off with 1SL-ST leaving a long strand to sew to the head. Take a strand of yarn D to make the basting of the mouth.

CHEEKS:

Make 2

Make a 10HDC ring with E.

Bind off with 1SL-ST and leave yarn to join the sides of the mouth

EARS:

(Make 2)

Round 1: Make a 6SC magic ring with yarn A.

Row 2: 6İNC 12Sc

Row 3: [1SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 18Sc

Row 4 and 5: Work sc.

Row 6: [1SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 12 Sc

Bind off with 1SL-ST leaving a strand to join the body without filling. Crush the ear and place on the sides of the head.

HAT:

Row 1: Make an 8SC ring with yarn F.

Row 2: Work sc.

Row 4: [1SC, 1İNC] 4 times. 12 Sc

Row 5: Work sc.

Row 5: [2SC, 1İNC] 4 times. 16 Sc

Row 6: Work sc.

Row 7: [3SC, 1İNC] 4 times. 20 Sc

Row 8: Work sc.

Row 9: [4SC, 1İNC] 4 times. 24 Sc

Row 10: Work sc.

Row 11: [5SC, 1İNC] 4 times. 28 Sc

Row 12: Work sc.

Row 13: [6SC, 1İNC] 4 times. 32 Sc

Row 14: Work sc.

Row 15: [7SC, 1İNC] 4 times. 36 Sc

Row 16: Work sc.

Row 17: [8SC, 1İNC] 4 times. 40 Sc

Row 6: Work sc.

Bind off with 1SL-ST leaving a long strand to join the head and fill in. Sew the dots on the hat before attaching to the head.

DOTS ON HAT:

Make 5

Make a 10HDC ring with colored stamens. Bind off with 1SL-ST and leave yarn to join the hat.

BODY PART 1:

(Make 2)

Finish off only one of the parts with 1SL-ST leaving a strand to sew the crotch and with the second continue to knit the second part of the pants.

Row 1: Make a 6SC ring with yarn A.

Round 2: 6İNC 12 Sc

Row 3: [1SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 18 Sc

Row 4: [2SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 24 Sc

Row 5: [3SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 30 Sc

Row 6: [4SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 36 Sc

Row 7: [5SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 42 Sc

Row 8 to 12: Work sc.

BODY PART 2:

Row 13: Join the first two parts of the pants knitting 33SC, go to the second part making another 33SC. 66 Sc

The remaining 9 stitches of each pants will be sewn together to form the part of the shot with the thread of the first part as shown in the image.

Row 14 to 18: Work sc.

Row 19: [9SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 60 Sc

Row 20 to 22: Work sc.

Round 23: [8SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 54 Sc

Row 24 to 26: Work sc.

Continue knitting the shirt using yarn D and H exchanging the yarn every 2 rounds starting with yarn D.

Row 27: Work SC only through the back loop.

Row 28: [7SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 48 Sc

Row 29 to 31: Work sc.

Lap 32: [6SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 42 Sc

Row 33 to 37: Work sc.

Row 38: [5SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 36 Sc

Row 39 to 43: Work sc.

Lap 44: [4SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 30 Sc

Row 45 to 47: Work sc.

Row 48: [3SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 24 Sc

Row 49 and 50: Work sc.

Row 51: Change to yarn A and work SC through the back loop. Bind off with 1SL-ST leaving a strand to join the body and fill in.

NECK:

Make two chains in the first stitch on round 50 with yarn I.

Round 1: 2DC at each point of the

turn 50, 1SL-ST.

Round 2: Make 5CH [1DC, 2CH,

1DC, 2CH] at each point, 1SL-ST in the third start chain.

On the next round, the space between the chains will be worked as a point.

To start round 3, do 1SL-ST in the first space between the chains.

Row 3: 1CH, [1SC, 2 CH, 1SL-ST in the second stitch from the hook, 1SC] repeat in each space between the CH. 1SL-ST in the first stitch on the round.

Attach the head to the body.

ARMS:

(Make 2)

Row 1: Make a 6SC ring with yarn A.

Round 2: 6İNC 12 Sc

Row 3: [1SC, 1İNC] 6 times 18 Sc

Row 4 to 6: Work sc.

Row 7: [1SC, 1DEC] 6 times. 12 Sc

Row 8: Work sc.

Start filling, change to yarn D or yarn H, taking into account that both arms are of different color.

Row 9: Work sc.

Row 10: Work SC from the back loop.

Lap 11: 12İNC 24 Sc

Round 12: [3SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 30 Sc

Row 13 to 17: Work sc.

Round 18: [8SC, 1DEC] 3 times. 27 Sc

Row 19: Work sc.

Round 20: [7SC, 1DEC] 3 times. 24 Sc

Row 21 and 22: Work sc.

Round 23: [6SC, 1DEC] 3 times. 21 Sc

Row 24 and 25: Work sc.

Row 26: [5SC, 1DEC] 3 times. 18 Sc

Row 27 and 28: Work sc.

Lap 29: [4SC, 1DEC] 3 times. 15 Sc

Row 30 to 32: Work sc.

Row 33: [3SC, 1DEC] 3 times. 12 Sc

Row 34 and 35: Work sc.

Row 36: [2SC, 1DEC] 3 times. 9 Sc

Row 37: Work sc.

Bind off with 1SL-ST leaving a strand to join the body, finish filling.

HOLANES OF THE HANDS:

Make 5 chains in the first stitch on round 10 with yarn E.

Round 2: [1DC, 2CH, 1DC, 2CH] at each point, 1SL-ST in the third starting chain.

On the next round, the space between the chains will be worked as a point. To start round 3, do 1SL-ST in the first space between the chains.

Row 3: 1CH, [1SC, 2 CH, 1SL-ST in the second chain from the hook, 1SC] repeat in each space between the CHs. 1SL-ST in the first stitch on the round.

PANTS EDGE AND SUSPENDERS:

Place the buttons on row 23 on the front of the trousers to mark the buttonholes.

Make 4SC over row 26 knitting in the same direction of the knit, lift 62CH, and place a pin holding chain 10 in the center of the back as shown in the photo, return to the chain held with the pin with 33SL-ST starting from chain 20 from hook to form buttonhole for right button, lift 52CH more and repeat the above process to make buttonhole for left button, make 10SL-ST over the challenge of the chain that goes from the pin to the edge of the trousers, continue with 50SC over the remaining stitches on row 23 of the trousers, bind off with 1SL-ST and hide the yarn over.

LEGS:

(Make 2)

Row 1: Make a 6SC ring with yarn J.

Round 2: 6İNC 12 Sc

Row 3: [1SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 18 Sc

Row 4: [2SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 24 Sc

Row 5: [3SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 30 Sc

Row 6: [4SC, 1İNC] 6 times. 36 Sc

Row 7 to 11: Knit sc

Round 12: [SC, 1DEC] 6 times, 18SC. 30 Sc

Round 13: [13SC, 1DEC] 2 times. 28 Sc

Round 14: [12SC, 1DEC] 2 times. 26 Sc

Round 15: [11SC, 1DEC] 2 times. 24 Sc

Row 16: Knit SC and do more 4SC of the next row.

Row 17: Flip, 18SC from the second punch from the hook (the rest of the stitches are left unwoven for now).

Row 18: Flip, 16Sc from the second stitch from the hook.

Row 19: Flip, 14Sc from the second stitch from the hook.

Row 20: Flip, 12Sc from the second stitch from the hook.

Row 21: Flip, 10Sc from the second stitch from the hook.

Row 22: Flip, 8Sc from the second stitch from the hook.

Row 23: Flip, 6Sc from the second stitch from the hook.

Row 24: Turn over, work SC around the entire row as follows; 5 sc from the second stitch from the hook, 7SC to the side of the pyramid, continue with 5SC that remained from round 17, 7SC to the other side of the pyramid. Knit 9SC more than the following return. 24Sc

On the next round use two row markers, place the first one on the last fabric of round 24.

Row 25: Flip, 12SC from the second point, place the second marker at point 12.

Row 26: Flip, 11SC from the second stitch from the hook, remove the first marker and work 1SC in that stitch, 2SC more and put the marker in this last stitch.

Row 27: Flip, 13SC from the second stitch from the hook, remove the second marking and make 1SC at this point, 1SC more and put the marker on this last point.

From here we will continue working in circles.

Row 28: Flip, 14SC from the second stitch from the hook, remove the first marking and make 1SC at this point, 1SC, 3DEC, 1SC, remove the second marking and make 1SC at this point, make 7SC more than the next round . 21Sc

Put the marker back on the last point and start filling. From this point on, we begin to knit the legs, inserting stamens B and F each round started with yarn B.

Row 29: [5SC, 1DEC] 3 times only on the back strand. 18 Sc

Row 30 to 37: Work sc.

Bind off with 1SL-ST leaving a strand to join the body and fill in.

The post The Charlatan Clown Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

We share amigurumi free patterns that are nowhere to be found. In this content, we shared our Mexican friend amigurumi amigo henry pattern.

Material:

– Hayfield Bonus DK (280m / 100g) in orange, yellow, red, light/dark green, purple, burgundy,

royal blue;

– Patons 4-ply 100% crochet cotton (330m/100g) in white and black;

– YarnArt Lily (225m/50g) in black, white and burgundy;

– YarnArt Begonia (169m/50g) in brown and purple;

– Hook size: 3.5mm; 3.0mm; 2.0mm; 1.5mm and 1.0mm;

– Curved needle, tapestry/wool needles, sewing needle;

– Polyester filling.

Abbreviations (UK crochet terms):

Rd round

Row row

st(s) stitch(es)

ss slip stitch

ch chain

ch sp chain space

dc double crochet

htr half treble crochet

tr treble crochet

dtr double treble crochet

2-st dc dec 2 stitches double crochet decrease

BL back loop

[…] square brackets indicate a group of stitches to be worked in one place

*….* asterisks mark a section of instructions to be repeated

Crochet in Spiral Rounds:

Work the body, hands, feet, fingers, tail, ears, yellow face, sombrero cone in spiral rounds (do not

turn, do not join). Use a stitch marker or pin to mark the end of each round. Move the marker up

each time you finish a round.

Invisible Fastening Off:

For a smooth finish to a final round, simply break the yarn leaving an end long enough to sew with. Pull it through the loop of the last stitch. Thread it into a wool needle and take the needle under the two strands of the first stitch.

Then take it back into the last stitch to form a new stitch, or just pull it tight until it disappears.

Changing Colours in Continuous Rounds:

1. At the start of a round which is to be in a new colour, pull up a loop as if to make a double crochet in the old colour, but don’t pull through the second loop to complete the stitch, you should then have two loops on your hook.

Complete the double crochet by pulling through a loop the *new* colour. You have just made a double crochet which is half the old colour and half the new colour.

2. Continue double crochet with the new colour.

Closing the Hole of Remaining Stitches:

Once you have finished the final round there remains a small opening which you need to close.

1. Thread the yarn tail into a tapestry needle.

2. Insert the needle through the front loop of each stitch around the opening and pull the tail tight to close the hole.

To get rid of the bump, insert the needle through the middle of the ring you’ve created, and

bring it out 4-5cm away. Pull the yarn tight and the bump at the closed end will disappear, leaving

a nice smooth finish.

Finally, snip the end close to the surface, and the cut end will retract back inside the piece .

Slip/Magic Ring:

To make a slip ring form a loop with your yarn. You will need to loop the yarn around your

fingers so that the end attached to the yarn ball, lies on the right while the “tail” of the yarn lies

on the left. Insert the hook through the loop (under both pieces of yarn). Pull the portion of yarn

through the loop and put your first row of stitches into the ring. Pull the short end of yarn and the

stitches will close together at the centre, completing your slip/magic ring. To close

this round make a slip stitch into the first stitch of your ring and proceed to the next round, or

don’t make a slip stitch and continue to crochet to next stitch if you are working in spiral rounds.

PATTERN

1. HEAD/BODY

Material: Hayfield Bonus DK in orange, hook size: 3.0mm;

How to make: Work the head/body in spiral rounds.

Rd 1 2ch, 6dc in 2nd ch from hook (6sts)

Rd 2 *[2dc]* crochet 6 times (12sts)

Rd 3 *1dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (18sts)

Rd 4 *2dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (24sts)

Rd 5 * 3dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (30sts)

Rd 6 * 4dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (36sts)

Rd 7 *5dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (42sts)

Rd 8 * 6dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (48sts)

Rd 9 -14 48dc (48sts)

Rd 15 *7dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (54sts)

Rd 16-22 54dc (54sts)

Rd 23 *8dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (60sts)

Rd 24-26 60dc (60sts)

Rd 27 * 9dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (66sts)

Rd 28-30 66dc (66sts)

Rd 31 *10dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (72sts)

Rd 32 72dc (72sts)

Rd 33 *11dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (78sts)

Rd 34-36 78dc (78sts)

Rd 37 *12dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (84sts)

Rd 38-40 84dc (84sts)

Rd 41 *13dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (90sts)

Rd 42-44 90dc (90sts)

Rd 45 *14dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (96sts)

Rd 46-50 96dc (96sts)

Rd 51 *14dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (90sts)

Rd 52 *13dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (84sts)

Rd 53 *12dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (78sts)

Rd 54 *11dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (72sts)

Rd 55 *10dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (66sts)

Rd 56 *9dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (60sts)

Rd 57 *8dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (54sts)

Rd 58 *7dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (48sts)

Stuff the head and the upper part of the body with polyester filling.

Rd 59 *6dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (42sts)

Rd 60 *5dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (36sts)

Rd 61 *4dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (30sts)

Rd 62 *3dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (24sts)

Rd 63 *2dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (18sts)

Stuff the remaining body with polyester filling.

Rd 64 *1dc, 2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (12sts)

Rd 65 *2-st dc dec* crochet 6 times (6sts). Fasten off and leave a tail about 30cm.

Thread the yarn tail into a tapestry needle. Insert the needle through the front loop of each stitch

around the opening and pull the tail tight to close the hole (pic.16). Weave in the loose end

(please see Crochet Techniques for more information about how to close the hole of remaining

stitches).

2. FACE

Material: Hayfield Bonus DK in yellow, hook size: 3.0mm;

How to make: work in spiral rounds.

Rd 1 2ch, 6dc in 2nd ch from hook (6sts)

Rd 2 *[2dc]* crochet 6 times (12sts)

Rd 3 *1dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (18sts)

Rd 4 *2dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (24sts)

Rd 5 * 3dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (30sts)

Rd 6 * 4dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (36sts)

Rd 7 *5dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (42sts)

Rd 8 * 6dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (48sts)

Rd 9 make only 1dc, 1ss in next st. Fasten off and leave a long tail (about 80cm).

Sew on this circle to the head approximately between Rounds 6 and 24.

3. EYES

Material: Patons 4-ply in white and black, hook size: 1.5mm;

Rd 1 white yarn: 2ch, 6dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1ss in top ch of 2ch (6sts)

Rd 2 1ch, *[2dc]* crochet 6 times, 1ss in first ch (12sts)

Rd 3 1ch, *1dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (18sts). Fasten off invisibly. Leave a long tail, you

will need it to make a small knot.

Rd 4 Take black yarn and make 1ss in back loop of each dc going around the edge.

Fasten off invisibly. Leave a long tail to sew the eyes onto the face.

4. PUPIL OF THE EYE

Material: YarnArt Lily in black, hook size: 1.0mm;

– 2ch, 6dc in 2nd ch from hook, invisible fastening off.

Sew on the black circle to the left side of each eye; pull the needle with white yarn (which is left

from the white circle) through both circles and create a small knot, hide the yarn end.

Attach the eyes to the face between Rounds 3 and 8 using the black yarn tails, weave in the loose Ends.

5. EYEBROWS

Material: YarnArt Begonia in brown.

-Thread the yarn (about 100cm in length) into a tapestry needle. Insert the needle from the top of

the head (leaving a 7-8cm tail) to a place where the eyebrow will start, point 1. Then insert the

needle to point 2 and push it back to point 1 (same place where the yarn comes up). You will have a

line – base for the eyebrows.

Next, wrap the line with the yarn 3 times, then insert the needle to point 2 and push it through to

the top of the head. Repeat the same with the other eyebrow and return the needle to the top of the

head and secure the ends. Don’t cut the yarn end as you still have enough tail to make a mouth.

To make the mouth:

Push the needle with brown yarn from top of the head down to the bottom of yellow face between

Rounds 6 and 7. Take 2.0mm hook and make 1ss in each of next 8-9sts between these

rounds. Then pull the yarn out, insert it into a needle and make a small vertical line at the end.

Push the needle with the yarn to the top of the head, secure it and cut the yarn ends.

6. NOSE

Material: YarnArt Begonia in pink, hook size: 1.5mm;

How to make (see the chart below): 3ch, 3htr in 3rd ch from hook, 2ch, ss in same base ch. Fasten

off leaving a long tail for attaching purposes.

Take a piece of white thread and insert the needle from back to the front of the nose, make a knot

and hide the yarn end.

7. WHISKERS

Material: YarnArt Begonia in black, hook size 1.5mm;

– take the black yarn and insert it through 4 stitches between Rounds 4 and 5 of the centre of the

face. Insert the hook to the place where the yarn end is coming up and make 14ch. Fasten off

leaving a tail about 6mm. Follow the same instruction to make the whisker from the other side.

8. SOMBRERO

Material: Bonus DK in yellow, red and light green.

How to make: work in spiral rounds. Please see ‘Special Crochet Techniques’ about how to change the colour in continuous rounds.

Rd 1 Start with yellow colour yarn: 2ch, 6dc in 2nd ch from hook (6sts)

Rd 2 6dc (6sts)

Rd 3 *[2dc]* crochet 6 times (12sts)

Rd 4 12dc (12sts)

Rd 5 12dc (12sts)

Rd 6 *1dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (18sts), change colour to red but don’t cut the yellow yarn tail.

Rd 7 18dc (18sts)

Rd 8 18dc (18sts)

Rd 9 18dc (18sts)

Rd 10 *2dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (24sts), change colour to yellow but don’t cut the red yarn tail.

Rd 11 24dc (24sts)

Rd 12 24dc (24sts)

Rd 13 24dc (24sts)

Rd 14 24dc (24sts), change colour to red but don’t cut the yellow yarn tail.

Rd 15 24dc (24sts)

Rd 16 24dc (24sts)

Rd 17 24dc (24sts)

Rd 18 *3dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (30sts), change colour to yellow but don’t cut the red yarn tail.

Rd 19 30dc (30sts)

Rd 20 30dc (30sts)

Rd 21 30dc (30sts)

Rd 22 30dc (30sts), change colour to red.

Rd 23 30dc (30sts)

Rd 24 30dc (30sts)

Rd 25 30dc (30sts)

Rd 26 *4dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (36sts), change colour to light green.

Rd 27 36dc (36sts)

Rd 28 36dc (36sts)

Rd 29 36dc (36sts)

Rd 30 36dc (36sts)

Rd 31 35dc, 1ss to the next st. Fasten off.

To make the brim:

Use Bonus DK in green and 3.5mm hook. Work in 2 strands (spiral rounds).

Rd 1 Attach the yarn to any stitch of the last round of the hat cone (pic.51) and make:

*5dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (42sts)

Rd 2 *6dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (48sts)

Rd 3 *7dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (54sts)

Rd 4 *8dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (60sts)

Rd 5 *9dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (66sts)

Rd 6 *10dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (72sts)

Rd 7 *11dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (78sts)

Rd 8 *12dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (84sts)

Rd 9 *13dc, [2dc]* crochet 6 times (90sts)

Rd 10 89dc, 1ss in next st. Don’t cut the yarn end.

Turn the hat over and continue to crochet from the wrong side using same colour yarn, pic.54:

1ch, 1dc in BL of the 1st st, then 1dc in BL of next 88sts, finish the round with 1ss in 1st ch. Fasten

off, hide the yarn end.

Next, attach red colour yarn and make: 1ch, 1dc in 1st st, then 1dc in each of next 88sts, 1ss in 1stch.

Fasten off, hide the yarn end.

Lastly, attach yellow colour yarn and make: 1ch, 1dc in 1st st, then 1dc in each of next 88sts, 1ss in 1 st ch. Fasten off, hide the yarn end.

9. EARS

Material: Hayfield Bonus DK in yellow, hook size 3.0mm;

How to make: work the ears in spiral rounds.

Rd 1 2ch, 6dc in 2nd ch from hook (6sts)

Rd 2 *1dc, [2dc]* crochet 3 times (9sts)

Rd 3 9dc (9sts)

Rd 4 *2dc, [2dc]* crochet 3 times (12sts)

Rd 5 12dc (12sts)

Rd 6 *3dc, [2dc]* crochet 3 times (15sts)

Rd 7 15dc (15sts), ss in next st. Fasten off leaving a long tail. Do not stuff the ears with polyester filling, just sew them on to the hat.

Next, take a piece of green yarn, insert it into a tapestry needle and attach the hat to the head.

10. SCARF

Material: Hayfield Bonus DK in royal blue, hook size 3.0mm;

Row 1 41ch, 1dc in 3rd ch from hook, *1ch, skip 1ch, 1dc in next ch* repeat 19 times, turn;

Row 2 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 17 times, turn;

Row 3 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 16 times, turn;

Row 4 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 15 times, turn;

Row 5 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 14 times, turn;

Row 6 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 13 times, turn;

Row 7 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 12 times, turn;

Row 8 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 11 times, turn;

Row 9 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 10 times, turn;

Row 10 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 9 times, turn;

Row 11 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 8 times, turn;

Row 12 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 7 times, turn;

Row 13 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 6 times, turn;

Row 14 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 5 times, turn;

Row 15 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 4 times, turn;

Row 16 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 3 times, turn;

Row 17 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, *1ch, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat 2 times, turn;

Row 18 2ch, (skip 1dc, 1ch, 1dc), 1dc in next ch sp, 1ch, 1dc in next ch sp, turn;

Row 19 1ch, 1dc in first ch sp, fasten off, weave in the loose end.

To make the tie:

1. Right hand side.

Attach yarn to the base ch at the top side of the scarf and make: 30ch, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook,

1htr, 2tr, 3dtr, 2tr, 2ch, ss in base of last tr. Other side of the base chain: skip 1 st, make 1tr in next

st, 3dtr, 2tr, 1htr, 1dc, 1ss in top ch, and then 1ss in each of next 8 base ch, make the last ss in top

ch of 2ch, continue with 1tr in each base chain to end, finish with 1ss in dc of Row 2.

2. Left hand side.

Attach the yarn to the chain space of Row 2 on the other side of the scarf and follow the same

instructions to make the tie. Join the tie to the scarf with 1ss into the 1st base ch, pic.60-62.

11. FEET

Material: Hayfield Bonus DK in purple, hook size 3.0mm;

How to make: work the feet in spiral rounds.

Rd 1 12ch, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 9dc, [3dc] in last ch. Other side of the base chain: 9dc,

[2dc] in last st (24sts)

Rd 2 [2dc], 9dc, *[2dc]* crochet 3 times, 9dc, *[2dc]* crochet 2 times (30sts)

Rd 3-5 30dc (30sts)

Rd 6 2-st dc dec, 9dc, *[2-st dc dec]* crochet 3 times, 9dc, *[2-st dc dec]* crochet 2 times, (24sts)

Rd 7-15 24dc (24sts)

Rd 16 Make 4dc and stuff the foot with polyester filling. Don’t fasten off yet.

Toes: use the yarn a bit darker than the foot colour. Insert the needle between Rounds 5 and 6 and

make the toes by stitching both sides of foot and tighten them a bit. Repeat this action two times

with each toe. At the end insert the needle from point 1 to point 2 (pic.65) and make a knot, hide

the ends. The last thing you need to do is join the two foot sides with dc. Fasten off leaving enough

tail to attach the foot to the body.

12. ARMS

Material: Hayfield Bonus DK in purple, hook size 3.0mm;

How to make: work the arms in spiral rounds.

Rd 1 5ch, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 2dc, [3dc] in last ch. Other side of the base chain: 2dc,

[2dc] in last ch (10sts)

Rd 2 [2dc], 2dc, *[2dc]* crochet 3 times, 2dc, *[2dc]* crochet 2 times (16sts)

Rd 3-4 16dc (16sts)

Rd 5 *[2-st dc dec, 6dc]* crochet 2 times (14sts)

Rd 6-8 14dc (14sts)

Rd 9 *[2-st dc dec, 5dc]* crochet 2 times (12sts)

Rd 10 12dc (12sts)

Rd 11 12dc, ss to next ch. Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to attach the arm to the body.

Stuff the arm with polyester filling.

13. FINGERS

Material: Hayfield Bonus DK in purple, hook size 3.0mm;

How to make: work in spiral rounds.

1st finger.

Rd 1 make a slip ring, 1ch, 8dc in ring (8sts)

Rd 2 8dc (8sts)

Rd 3 8dc (8sts)

Rd 4 8dc (8sts), 1ss in next ch. Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to attach the finger to the

arm. Stuff the finger with polyester filing.

2nd and 3rd fingers.

Rd 1 make a slip ring, 1ch, 7dc in ring (7sts)

Rd 2 7dc (7sts)

Rd 3 7dc (7sts)

Rd 4 7dc (7sts), 1ss in next ch. Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to attach the finger to the

arm. Stuff the fingers with polyester filing.

4th finger:

Rd 1 make a slip ring, 1ch, 6dc in ring (6sts)

Rd 2 6dc (6sts)

Rd 3 6dc (6sts), 1ss in next ch. Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to attach the finger to the arm. Stuff the finger with polyester filing.

Attach the fingers to the arm, very close to each other.

14. SHADOW ON HANDS

Material: Yarnart Lily in purple, hook size 1.5mm;

– make 13ch, 1dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1htr, 1tr, [2dtr], 1tr, 1htr, 1tr, [2dtr], 1tr, 1htr, [1dc, 2ch, 1ss] in last ch. Fasten off and attach the ‘shadow’ to the hand.

15. TAIL

Material: Hayfield Bonus DK in purple, hook size 3.0mm;

How to make: work the tail in spiral rounds.

Rd 1 2ch, 6dc in 2nd ch from hook (6sts)

Rd 2 *1dc, [2dc]* crochet 3 times (9sts)

Rd 3 9dc (9sts)

Rd 4 *2dc, [2dc]* crochet 3 times (12sts)

Rd 5 12dc (12sts)

Rd 6 *3dc, [2dc]* crochet 3 times (15sts)

Rd 7-35 15dc (15sts). Fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff the tail with polyester filling.

Using a curved needle make a few stitches along one side of the tail. Adding these stitches and

pulling them together allows you to get a curved tail’s shape. Attach the tail to the body

The post Amigo Henry Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

“Lolo and Christmas tree” 

This master class is my author’s work and it is FREE! 

* Pattern cannot be sold, 

* The CP cannot be changed, 

* It is advisable to indicate / mark me as the author of 

the description, if you place somewhere a toy related 

to my description or the CP itself, 

* You can sell toys. Desirable with a reference to me, 

as the author of the idea and description. 

I hope for your understanding and respect for my 

work 

CP is included in my creative project “Free 

descriptions to masters”. 

The bottom line is that I will gradually spread all my 

CP that I had ready and in the future I will continue to 

do this completely free of charge. 

I would be glad to receive feedback: likes, comments, 

reposts. 

You can support my project here: 

paypal.me/bebelousova 

I will be glad to see you on my Instagram: 

https://www.instagram.com/crochet_by_belousova/

This master class does not contain crochet lessons and is 

designed for those who have basic crochet skills. 

The complexity of this CP is medium. 

I am sure that you will get the most beautiful and sweetest 

bear. When publishing a photo of a toy related to my CP, 

please indicate me as the author 

(@crochet_by_belousova) of the pattern. Thanks  

1)Yarn. 

When knitting, I used: 

* YarnArt Jeans (skein weight: 50 gr., Thread length: 160 m, 

Composition: 55% cotton, 45% polyacrylic, Manufacturer: Turkey) 

Colors: N 90 – red, N 17 – blue, N 01 – white, N 63 – green, N 

35 – yellow. 

2) Hook N 1.75 

3) Filler – holofiber, sintepon 

4) Eyes with a diameter of 1 cm. 

5)2 buttons with a diameter of 1 cm 

6) Basting needles 

7) Stitching needle 

8) Scissors 

9) Threads for sewing. 

10) White felt for the decoration of the eyelet (I have sequins) 

11) Multi-colored beads for decorating a Christmas tree. 

Recommended materials and tools 

Lolo’s size when using these materials is 16.5 cm. 

The size of the Christmas tree when using these 

materials is 5.5 cm. 

PATTERN

Abbreviations: 

AR – Adjustable Ring 

sc – single crochet 

ch – chain 

inc – increase 

dec – decrease 

dc – double crochet 

tr- treble crochet 

dtr – double treble crochet 

App – application 

CP – crochet pattern 

ll – lift loop 

sl st – slip stitch 

hdc – half double crochet 

scbl – single crochet in the 

back loop 

scfl – single crochet in the 

front loop 

(…) – the number in brackets 

meansnumber of loops in a 

row 

(…)*N – repeat N timeswhat is 

indicated in bracketsscbl – single crochet in the back 

loop 

* How to pull off the hole 

* How to connect parts 

* How to fix the sewing thread on a knitted garment 

* How to sew head to body 

* How to make a peephole tightening 

* How to arrange eyes 

* How to change color when crocheting in a spiral 

* How to knit by a jumper 

* How to attach a loop to a knitted garment at the front 

half loop 

In the Applicationto the 

crochet pattern you will find: 

1)HEAD 

We knit with white yarn. 

We fill the detail in the knitting process. 

1) 6 sc in AR (6) 

2) 6 inc (12) 

3) (1 sc , inc)*6 (18) 

4) 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24) 

5) (3 sc, inc)*6 (30) 

6) 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36) 

7) (5 sc, inc)*6 (42) 

8) 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48) 

9) – 14) 48 sc (48, 6 rows) 

15) 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42) 

16) (5 sc, dec)*6 (36) 

17) 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30) 

18) (3 sc, dec)*6 (24) 

19) 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*5, 1 sc (18) 

20) (1 sc, dec)*6 (12) 

We make 2 decreases and tighten the hole. 

How to pull off the hole can be found in the appendix to 

the crochet pattern. 

DESCRIPTION 

2)HOOD 

We knit with red yarn. 

1) 6 sc in AR (6) 

2) 6 inc (12) 

3) (1 sc , inc)*6 (18) 

4) 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24) 

5) (3 sc, inc)*6 (30) 

6) 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36) 

7) (5 sc, inc)*6 (42) 

8) 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48) 

9) – 15) 48 sc (48, 7 rows) 

We put the “head” on the detail and knit: 

16) 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42) 

We knit sl st, fix the thread, cut it off. 

3)BEAK 

We knit with yellow yarn. 

1) 5 sc in AR (5) 

2) 5 inc (10) 

3) 10 sc (10) 

We knit sl st, fix the thread, cut it off. 

4)BODY (JUMPSUIT) 

When knitting, we use red yarn. 

We fill in the knitting process. 

Detail No. 1) 

1) 6 sc in AR (6) 

2) 6 inc (12) 

3) (1 sc , inc)*6 (18) 

4) 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24) 

5) 24 sc (24) 

We fix the thread, cut it off. 

Detail No. 2) 

1) 6 sc in AR (6) 

2) 6 inc (12) 

3) (1 sc , inc)*6 (18) 

4) 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24) 

5) – 6) 24 sc (24, 2 rows) 

We do not cut the thread, we continue to knit. 

We connect parts N 1 and N 2) 

How to connect parts is discussed in the App to the CP. 

We knit: 24 sc according to item N 1, 

24 sc – N 2 each. 

It turns out 48 loops in a row. We sew the hole formed at 

the junction of the parts. We use a needle with red 

thread for sewing. 

We put a marker, mark the beginning of the row and 

continue to knit: 

7) – 11) 48 sc (48, 5 rows) 

12) 11 sc, dec, 22 sc, dec, 11 sc (46) 

13) 10 sc, dec, 21 sc, dec, 11 sc (44) 

14) dec, 42 sc (43) 

15) 9 sc, dec, 32 sc (42) 

16) 19 sc, dec, 21 sc (41) 

17) 29 sc, dec, 10 sc (40) 

18) dec, 38 sc (39) 

19) 8 sc, dec, 29 sc (38) 

20) 17 sc, dec, 19 sc (37) 

21) 27 sc, dec, 8 sc (36) 

22) dec, 34 sc (35) 

23) 7 sc, dec, 26 sc (34) 

24) dec, 14 sc, dec, 16 sc (32) 

25) 6 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 8 sc (30) 

26) dec, 12 sc, dec, 14 sc (28) 

27) 5 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 7 sc (26) 

28) dec, 10 sc, dec, 12 sc (24) 

We knit an additional 5 sc, sl st, fix the thread, cut off. 

5) LEGS (2 PARTS) 

We knit with yellow yarn. 

We do not fill in the details. 

We collect 5 ch, and we knit from the second loop from 

the hook: 

1) inc, 2 sc, 3 sc in one loop, 2 sc, inc (11) 

2) – 5) 11 sc (11, 4 rows) 

6) dec, 3 sc, dec, 4 sc (9) 

7) dec, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc (7) 

We knit sl st, fix the thread, cut it off. 

With the sharp end of the scissors, thread the thread 

inside the part. 

6) WINGS (2 PARTS) 

We start knitting with blue yarn. 

1) 5 sc in AR (5) 

2) 5 inc (10) 

3) 10 sc (10) 

4) (1 sc, inc)*5 (15) 

5) 15 sc (15) 

Change the color of the yarn to red. 

How to switch from one yarn color to another you will 

find in the App to the CP. 

6) (2 sc, inc)*5 (20) 

7) – 12) 20 sc (20, 6 rows) 

13) (2 sc, dec)*5 (15) 

14) 15 sc (15) 

15) (1 sc, dec)*5 (10) 

Knit an additional 2 sc, fold the piece in half and knit by 

both sides 5 sc. 

Photo for an example 

of how to knit for both 

sides of the part. 

1) Cut out 2 circles with a diameter of 12 mm from felt. We 

glue eyes 1 cm in diameter on felt circles on the side as 

shown in the photo. 

Design and assembly: 

2) We fix the beak with basting needles on the 11-12th row of 

the head and sew it with a needle with a yellow thread for 

sewing as shown in the photo. 

3) We glue the eyes on the 9-11th row of the head at a 

distance of 8 sс between them. 

4) We make a peephole tightening. Mark points from N 1 to 

N 4 as shown in the photo. 

We use a needle and white thread for sewing. 

The process is described in detail in the App to the CP. 

5) We decorate the eyes with black sewing thread. Do not 

tighten the thread. 

We mark points with basting needles as shown in the 

photo. The process is described in detail in the App to 

the CP. 

6) We embroider the eyebrows 

We mark the points with basting needles. 

Upper (N 2 and N 3) between 5 and 6 row at a distance of 4 

sc between them. 

The lower ones (N 1 and N 4) are between 8 and 9 row at a 

distance of 15 sc between them as shown in the photo. 

We thread a black thread into the needle in two threads, 

insert the head into the last row, fix the thread and insert 

the needle in order from N 1 to N 4) Draw the needle next 

to the last row of the head, fix and cut off. 

7) We embroider a smile. 

We use a needle and black thread for sewing. 

Mark the points with basting needles located between 

the 2nd and 3rd rows on the left and right as shown in 

the photo on the next page. 

We fix the thread on the last row of the head. We 

withdraw the needle to point N 1, at N 2, then we 

introduce it into the last row of the head. We fix the 

thread, cut it off. 

8) SCARF 

We use blue yarn. 

We collect 25 ch, close the sl st into a ring and knit: 

2 ch, 24 dc, sl st into second chain st. 

We fix the thread, cut it off. 

We decorate the scarf with two rows of sl st. 

We use white yarn. 

To do this, we form a loop, then use a hook to pull it out 

from the seamy side to the front one and knit sl st 

through each dc from above and below. 

9)HEAD COVER 

We use blue yarn. 

We knit 25 ch, we knit from the second loop from the 

hook: 

1) inc in the first loop, ll, turn (2) 

2) 1 sc, inc, ll, turn (3) 

3) 2 sc, пinc, ll, turn (4) 

We tie the sl st part, fix the thread, cut it off. 

We fix the part from 3 to 5 row of the head (between the 

eyebrows) and sew with a needle and blue thread for 

sewing. 

10) We fix the hood with basting needles and sew with a 

needle and red sewing thread. 

12) Sew on the wings. 

Using a hook, we hide the ponytails inside the parts. 

We fix the wings with basting needles between the 26th 

and 27th row of the body. 

And we sew with a needle with a red thread for sewing. 

11) We sew the head to the body. 

We put the scarf on the “body” detail with basting needles 

and fix the body to the head as shown in the photo. 

We use a needle with a red thread for sewing (see App for 

how to fix the thread on a knitted product) and sew on 

both half-loops (see App) 

13) Sew / glue the legs to the legs. 

14) We decorate the jumpsuit with two knitted details 

and buttons. 

Knitted details (2 pcs): 

1) 5 sc in AR (5) 

2) 5 inc (10) 

We knit sl st, fix the thread, cut it off. 

We place knitted parts from 20 to 23 rows and from 12 to 

15 rows of the body. We fix the buttons from above with 

basting needles. Sew on with a needle and blue sewing 

thread. 

15) We knit our Christmas tree. 

The Christmas tree consists of three parts. 

* Detail N 1 (the Christmas tree itself) 

We use green yarn. 

1) 6 sc in AR (6) 

2) inc, 5 sc ( 7) 

3) inc, 6 sc (8) 

4) (inc, 3 sc)*2 (10) 

Then we knit only for scbl 

5) (inc, 4 sc)*2 (12) 

6) (3 sc, inc)*3 (15) 

7) (2 sc, inc)*5 (20) 

8) (4 sc, inc)*4 (24) 

9) (7 sc, inc)*3 (27) 

10) inc, 13 sc, inc, 12 sc (29) 

We knit sl st, fix the thread, cut it off. 

We form a loop, attach it to the first loop of the 5th row 

and knit: 1 ll, sc behind scfl in a spiral. 

How to attach a loop to the front loop, I consider in the 

Appe to the CP. Straighten down the rows tied from sc 

behind scfl. 

Decorate with beads of different diameters and colors. 

Detail No. 2) Bottom. 

We use green yarn. 

1) 6 sc in AR (6) 

2) 6 inc (12) 

3) (1 sc, inc)*6 (18) 

4) 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24) 

We knit sl st, fix the thread, cut it off. 

We apply the bottom to the Christmas tree with the right 

side out and sew with a needle and green sewing thread 

as shown in the photo. In the process, the Christmas 

tree is loosely filled. 

Detail No. 3) Barrel. 

We use yellow yarn. 

1) 6 sc in AR (6) 

2) 6 inc (12) 

3) Knit by jumper: 12 sc (12) 

How to knit for a jumper, see the App to the CP. 

4) – 5) 12 сбн (12, 2 ряда) 

We knit sl st, fix the thread, cut it off. 

We fix the barrel with basting needles to part No. 2 in 

the middle as shown in the photo and sew. 

Hurrah! Lolo and the 

Christmas tree are ready 

If you have any questions / wishes, you can find me here 

(click on the icon): 

Light loops and creative inspiration. 

Best regards 

I will be very glad to see your feedback on 

my Instagram page 

The post Penguin Lolo Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

We are working to deliver amigurumi free patterns to you every day. In this content, we shared the amigurumi pikachu pattern for you. Legendary cartoon pokemon’s favorite character, Pikachu yu, you can easily do it thanks to the free pattern we shared with you as an amigurumi toy.

Materials:

 3mm hook

 Aran weight yarn (Paintbox Simply Aran)

o Buttercup Yellow 222, Pure Black 201,

Paper White 200, Coffee Bean 210, Soft

Fudge 209, Rose Red 213

 12mm safety eyes

 Black Embroidery Thread

 Stuffing

 Yarn needle

 Stitch marker

Abbreviations:

 ch – chain

 sc – single crochet

 hdc – half double crochet

 st/sts – stitch/stitches

 sl st – slip stitch

 inc – increase

 dec – invisible decrease

 BLO – back loops only

 FO – fasten off (sl st to the next st)

 SP – spike stitch

An elongated single crochet. In this pattern, you will work a single crochet into the stitch just below the new row (so one row below

The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology and is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Instructions are easy to follow if you are familiar with basic crochet techniques.

The size of the Pokémon is approximately 6in from head to bottom. It may vary though depending on the kind of yarn and hook size used.

Gauge is not important if the stitches are tight enough to hold the filling.

You can also use any color of your choice.

Feel free to add more accessories to your very own Pokémon. Imagination is your limit.

So, go ahead and start your magical craft. Don’t forget to enjoy.

PATTERN

Head

Using yellow yarn

1 6 sc in magic circle 6

2 inc around 12

3 (inc, sc) around 18

4 (inc, 2 sc) around 24

5 (inc, 3 sc) around 30

6 (inc, 4 sc) around 36

7 (inc, 5 sc) around 42

8-12 sc around 5 rounds 42

13 mark the beginning 11 sc, 6 inc, 8 sc, 6 inc, 11 sc 54

14-17 sc around 4 rounds 54

18 12 sc, 6 dec, 8 sc, 6 dec, 10 sc 42

19 sc around 42

20 (dec, 5 sc) around 36

21 (dec, 4 sc) around 30

22 (dec, 3 sc) around 24

Do not FO as we are going to continue working on the body later.

Place safety eyes between R13-14 with 10 sts apart. Hold the head upside down. Count 21 sts from the beginning of R13, insert safety eyes between sts 21-22 for left eye and sts 31-32 for right eye.

Stuff the head firmly. Add some more on the sides where the highlighted increases were made for chubby cheeks on R13.

Continue working on the body.

Body

Using yellow yarn

Using black yarn

*be mindful of switching colors to achieve the stripes at the back

1 (inc, sc) around 36

2-3 sc around 2 rounds 36

4 (inc, 5 sc) around 42

5 40 sc, 2 sc 42

6 7 sc, 33 sc, 2 sc 42

7 7 sc, 35 sc 42

8 sc around 42

9 40 sc, 2 sc 42

10 7 sc, 8 sc, 6 inc, 8 sc, 6 inc, 5 sc, 2 sc 54

11 7 sc, 9 sc, 3(3 sc, inc), 8 sc, 3(inc, 3 sc), 6 sc 60

12-13 sc around 2 rounds 60

14 19 sc, 6 dec, 8 sc, 6 dec, 9 sc 48

15 (dec, 6 sc) around 42

16 (dec, 5 sc) around 36

Start putting stuffing inside the body.

Add extra stuffing on the highlighted increases on R10 and 11 for legs to make it more prominent.

You may want to add some more stuffing before finishing.

17 (dec, 4 sc) around 30

18 (dec, 3 sc) around 24

19 (dec, 2 sc) around 18

20 (dec, sc) around 12

21 dec around 6

FO, weave in ends.

Eye Indentations

 To give Pikachu’s face more definition, we need to sculpt it by sewing.

Using the same yellow yarn in a needle, start by inserting the needle from anywhere in the head to the top inner side of right eye, bringing down about 2 sts below, then into the top inner side of left eye. Give it a pull to create indentation.

Bring the needle down about 2 sts below and into the top inner side of right eye again.

Pull as much as you can until you get the desired indentation. From there, insert the needle to

anywhere in the head and secure it with knots. FO.

Face Detail

Using black yarn, embroider a tiny inverted triangle nose between the eyes.

And using a black thread, embroider the mouth below the nose.

Refer to the diagram below for proper placement of the stitches.

Cheeks (2)

Using red yarn

1 8 hdc in magic circle 8

 FO, leave a long tail for sewing.

 Sew the cheeks on both sides of the face.

Ears (2)

Using black yarn

1 4 sc in magic circle 4

2 (inc, sc) around 6

3 (inc, sc) around 9

4 (inc, 2 sc) around 12

Switch to yellow yarn

5-8 sc around 4 rounds 12

9 (dec, 4 sc) around 10

10-11 sc around 2 rounds 10

FO, leave a long tail for sewing later.

Sew the ears on both sides of top of the head between R7-10

Arms (2)

Using yellow yarn

1 6 sc in magic circle 6

2 inc around 12

3-4 sc around 2 rounds 12

5 3 dec, 6 sc 9

6-7 sc around 2 rounds 9

FO, leave a long tail for sewing.

 Stuff lightly.

Sew the arms in a slanted manner to both sides of the body between R1-3 with 6 sts apart. The arms should look like they are hugging the tummy.

Feet (2)

Using yellow yarn

1 6 sc in magic circle 6

2 inc around 12

3-5 sc around 3 rounds 12

6 (dec, 2 sc) around 9

7 sc around 9

 FO, leave a long tail for sewing.

Stuff and sew the feet to the bottom on both sides of the body between R17-18 with 5 sts apart. The feet should be facing slightly outward at the front.

Tail

Using yellow yarn

*The tail is very tricky, but you will be guided through every part with lots of details.

*Due to the unique construction of the tail, some rows will be made in spiral and the others will be in the rounds.

Make a foundation ch of 16, start in 2nd ch from the hook,

1 14 sc, inc in the last ch, continue working on the other side of the foundation ch, 14 sc 30

2-6 sc around 5 rounds 30

7 23 sc, sc (mark this st), 6 sc 30

8 7 sc flip your work, insert your hook in the marked st and continue, 7 sc 14

9 14 sc 14

10a sc, make a foundation ch of 5, start in the 2nd ch from hook,

10b 4 sc,continue working on the front, 7 sc

11 mark the beginning, 7 sc, 4 sc at the back of the chs, turn and continue working on the other side, 11 sc 22

12-13 sc around 2 rounds 22

14 6 sc, sc (mark this st), 4 sc 22

15 mark the beginning, 5sc, flip your work, insert your hook in the marked st and continue, 5 sc 10

16-17 sc around 2 rounds 10

Switch to black yarn

18 5 (SP, sc) 10

19-20 sc around 2 rounds 10

FO, leave a long tail for sewing.

Stuff the tail very lightly. Close the openings by doing whip stitch to both sts using the same color of yarn.

 Sew the tail to the bottom between R17-18 of the body.

Make sure it is in the middle of both feet.

To keep the tail upright, secure it with a stitch at the very back 2 rows above the top stripe.

Accessories

Hat

Using light brown yarn

Body:

1 6 sc in magic circle 6

2 (inc, sc) around 9

3 (inc, 2 sc) around 12

4 (inc, 3 sc) around 15

5 (inc, 4 sc) around 18

6 (inc, 2 sc) around 24

7a sc around 24

7b sl st N/A

Do not FO as we are going to continue making the first flap.

Flaps (2):

*Work in the rounds, ch 1 after turning.

1 6 sc, mark the next st, turn and ch 1 6

2-3 6 sc, turn and ch 1 2 rounds 6

4 dec, 2 sc, dec, turn and ch 1 4

5 4 sc, turn and ch 1 4

6 2 dec, turn and ch 1 2

7 2 sc, sl st 2

FO, leave about 15 cm of tail for the bow later.

Count 6 sts starting at the mark from R1 of flaps and insert your hook in the next st.

Repeat R1-7 to make the other flap.

FO, and leave the same length of tail.

Brim:

*Work in the rounds, ch 1 after turning.

The brim is made in between of both flaps and in the front loops only of body.

Insert your hook in the next st after R1 of right flap.

1-2 6 sc, turn and ch 1 6

3 dec, 2 sc, dec, sl st 4

FO, leave a long tail for sewing later.

Fold the flaps on the side of the body.

Insert both tail in between R1-2. Make a bow using these tails.

Stuff and sew the hat on top of the head in between both ears.

Coffee mug

Using white yarn

1 6 sc in magic circle 6

2 inc around 12

3 (inc, 3 sc) around 15

4 sc around in BLO 15

5-9 sc around 5 rounds 15

10 sl st around 15

Do not FO yet as we are going to make the handle.

Insert your hook below R9 on the side where the last st was made and try to grab the yarn from the inside. Make a ch of 4 and sl st to R5.

From there, make 6 sc around the chs and sl st to secure.

FO, leave a long tail for sewing later.

Make the coffee with 6 hdc in a magic circle using brown yarn.

FO, weave in ends.

Stuff the mug and use the tail from the mug to sew the coffee on top.

OPTIONAL:

To secure the coffee mug in both hands, run the needle with yellow yarn through the left hand to

the coffee to the right hand.

The post Pikachu Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.