In this article I will share a wonderful amigurumi pattern again. You can enjoy this beautiful amigurumi dalmatians free english pattern.

Abbreviations

Mr = Magic ring

sc = single crochet

inc = Increase

dec = decrease

sl-st = slip-stitch

dc =double crochet

Body And Head

white color yarn

1) Magic ring into 6sc

2) 6inc: 12sc

3) (1sc1inc) * 6: 18sc

4) (2sc1inc) * 6: 24sc

5) (3sc1inc) * 6: 30sc

6) (4sc1inc) * 6: 36sc

7) (5sc1inc) * 6: 42sc

8) (6sc1inc) * 6: 48sc

9) (7sc1inc) * 6: 54sc

10) (8sc1inc) * 6: 60sc

11) (9sc1inc) * 6: 66sc

12) (10sc1inc) * 6: 72sc

13) (11sc1inc) * 6: 78sc

14.row: 78 sc

15. row: (12 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = (84)

16-17.rows: 84 sc

18 .row: (13 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = (90)

19. row: 90sc (repeat 11 times)

20 .row: (28 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (87)

21 .row: (27 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (84)

22.row: (26 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (81)

23 .row: (25 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (78)

24 .row: (24 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (75)

25 .row: (23 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (72)

26 .row: (22 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (69)

27 .row: (21 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (66)

28.row: (20 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (63)

29 .row: (19 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (60)

30.row: (18 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (57)

31.row: (17 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (54)

32.row: (16 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (51)

33.row: (15 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (48)

34 .row: (14 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (45)

35.row: (13 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (42)

36 .row: (12 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (39)

37.row: (14 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (36)

38.row: (10 sc, 1 dec) 3 = (33)

39.row: (9 sc, 1 dec). 3 = (30)

40 .row: (8 sc, 1 dec). 3 = (27)

fill the body.

41 .row: (7 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (24)

From here on we are making head.

42.row: (4 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = (30)

43.row: (4 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = (36)

44.row: (5 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = (42)

45.row: (6 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = (48)

46.row: (7 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = (54)

47. row: (8 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = (60)

48.row: 60 sc

49. row: (9 sc, 1 inc) = (66)

50.row: (10 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = (72)

51.row: 72 sc (repeat 9 times.)

52.row: (22 sc, 1 dec) * 3 = (69)

53.row (21 sc, 1dec) * 3 = (66)

54) (20sc 1 dec) * 3 = (63 sc)

55) (19sc 1 dec) * 3 = (60 sc)

56) (18sc 1 dec) * 3 = (57 sc)

57) (17sc 1 dec) * 3 = (54 sc)

58) (16sc 1 dec) * 3 = (51 sc)

59) (15sc 1 dec) * 3 = (48 sc)

60) (14sc 1 dec) * 3 = (45 sc)

61) (13sc 1 dec) * 3 = (42 sc)

62) (12sc 1 dec) * 3 = (39 sc)

63) (11sc 1 dec) * 3 = (36 sc)

64) (10sc 1 dec) * 3 = (33 sc)

65) (9sc 1 dec) * 3 = (30 sc)

66) (8sc 1 dec) * 3 = (27 sc)

67) (7sc 1 dec) * 3 = (24 sc)

68) (2sc 1 dec)*6 = (18sc)

69) (1sc 1 dec)*6 = (12 sc)

70) (1dec)*6 = (6sc) finish.

NOSE

1.row: 12 chain

2.row: 12 sc

3.row: 1inc, 10 sc, 1inc = (14)

4.row: 1inc, 12 sc, 1inc = (16)

5.row: 1inc, 14 sc, 1inc = (18)

6.row: 1inc, 16 sc, 1inc = (20)

7.row: 1inc, 18 sc, 1inc = (22)

8.row: 22 sc (repeat this round 4 times)

9.row: Restart from the 7th stitch on the sewing side.

10.row: On the 7 th, 3sc, make a semicircle connecting a loop behind each stitch with a (sl-st) slip stitch, follow the same procedure on the other tears in the nose. See illustration.

11.row: (1inc) * 3, connect with sl-st = (6)

12 .row: (1 sc, 1inc) * Connect with 3 sl-st = (9)

13 .row: (2 sc, 1inc) 3, connect with sl-st = (12

14.row: 12 sc, connect with sl-st.

15 .row: (3 sc, 1inc) 3, connect with sl-st = (15)

16.row: 15 sc, connect with sl-st

17.row: (4 sc, 1inc) * 3, connect with sl-st = (18)

18.row: 18sc, connect with sl-st =

19.row: (5 sc, 1inc) 3, connect with sl-st = (21)

20.row: Now we will circle the same way on the other side.

21.row: On the left side, to make the second half of the circle, fixing the rope to the left side of the left side of the seventh. We do 36sc in the loops next to the second half of the apartment. (78) See illustration.

Note: 36sc in 21st, start here

22.row: 78 sc (repeat this round three times)

23.row: 36sc, (3sc, 1dec) * 4, 2 sc, (3sc, 1dec) * 4

24.row: 36 sc, (2 sc, 1 dec) * 4, 2 sc, (2 sc, 1 dec) * 4 = (62)

24.row: (4sc, 1dec) * 6, (1dec) * 6,2 sc, (1dec) * 6 = (44) fill, finish.

NOTE: Start sewing, counting 8 rows up the length.

EYE

with black rope

1.row: Magic ring 8sc

2.row: (1inc, 1incHDC) * 4 = (16)

3.row: (1 sc, 1 inc, 1HDC, 1incHDC) * 4 = (24)

4.row: (2 sc, 1 inc) * 8 = (32)

5.row: (3 sc, 1 inc) * 8 = (40) finish.

1. White inside of the eye with white rope

1.row: Magic ring 6sc = (6)

2.row: (2 inc) * 4, (1incHDC) * 4 = (12)

3.row: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 4, (1HDC, 1incHDC) * 2 = (18) finish.

2. White inside of eye with white rope

1.row: Magic ring 6sc = (6)

2.row: (2 inc) * 4, (1incHDC) * 4 = (12)

3.row: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 4, (1HDC, 1incHDC) * 2 = (18)

4.row: (2 sc, 1 inc) * 4, (2 HDC, 1incHDC) * 2 = (24)

2nd black of the eye

1.row: Magic ring 4sc = (4)

2.row: (1 inc) * 4 = (8) finish.

NOSE TIP

with Black rope

1.row: Magic ring 6 sc

2.row: 6inc = (12)

3.row: (2sc, 2inc) * 3 = (18)

4.row: 3 sc, 2inc, (4sc, 2inc) * 2,1sc = (24)

5.row: 4 sc, 2inc, (6 sc, 2inc) * 2, 2 sc = 30

6.row: 30 sc

7.row: 5sc, 2dec, (6sc, 2dec) * 2,1sc = (24)

8.row: (2sc, 1dec) * 6 = (18)

9.row: (1 sc, 1dec) * 6 = (12) fill.

10.row :(1dec) * 6 = (6) Close and leave a long thread to sew.

Slant the nose in the middle of the nose in a corner. Create a black line below the nose with a long thread twice from where you sew. Then make dots with three knots to the right and left. knot the rope around the needle. Repeat three times.

MOUTH

with white rope

1.row: Magic ring 5 sc

2.row: 5inc = (10)

3.row: (1sc, 1inc) * 5 = (15)

4.row: (2sc, 1inc) * 5 = (20)

5.row: (3sc, 1inc) * 5 = (25)

6.row: 25sc (repeat 7 times) very little fill.

Tongue:

Red with rope

1.row: 4 chain

2.row: 3 sc, to the last ring of the 4sc chain, 3sc = (10)

3.row: 4 sc, 2inc, 4 sc (12)

4.row: 5 sc, 2inc, 5 sc = (14)

Place the tongue in the middle of the mouth. Suture under the nose.

EAR

with white rope

1.row: Magic ring 6sc

2.row: 3inc, 3sc = (9)

3.row: 2sc, 3inc, 4sc = (12)

4.row: 4sc, 3inc, 5sc = (15)

5.row: 6sc, 1inc, 8sc = (16)

6.row: 5sc, 3inc, 8sc = (19)

7.row: 6sc, 3inc, 10sc = (22)

8.row: 8sc, 1inc, 13sc = (23)

9.row: 9sc, 1inc, 13sc = (24)

10.row: 24sc

11.row: 10 sc, 1inc, 13sc = (25)

12.row: 25sc

13.row: 11sc, 1inc, 13sc = (26)

14.row: 26sc

15.row: 11sc, 1inc, 14sc = (27)

16.row: 27sc

17.row: 12sc, 1inc, 14sc = (28)

18.row: 28sc

19.row: 13sc, 1c, 14sc = (29)

20.row: 29sc

21.row: 29 sc

22.row: 14 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc = (30)

23.row: 30sc (repeat 11 times)

finish.

LEGS

(4 pcs) with white rope

1) Magic ring into 6sc

2) 6inc: 12sc

3) (1sc1inc) * 6: 18sc

4) (2sc1inc) * 6: 24sc

5) (3sc1inc) * 6: 30sc

6) (4sc1inc) * 6: 36sc

7) (5sc1inc) * 6: 42sc

8) 42sc (repeat 4 times)

9) (2 HDC, 1 decHDC) * 6.18sc = (36)

10) (1HDC, 2 decHDC) * 6.18sc = (30)

11) (2 decHDC) * 6, 18sc = (24)

12) 24sc (repeat 5 times)

13) 1dec, 22sc = (23)

14) 23sc (repeat 5 times)

15) 1dec, 21sc = (22)

16) 22sc (repeat 7 times)

17) 1dec, 20sc = (21)

18) (5sc, 1dec) * 3 = (18)

19) Fill in (1sc, 1dec) * 6 = (12).

20) (1dec) * 6 = (6)

finish.

With a white thread, separate the toes as in the photo. Sew the front legs, sew the entire length from top to bottom. The rear legs are sewn to the side, the legs are sewn to the left and right of the front legs.

The Paw Large SPOTS

With black rope

1) Magic ring 6sc

2) 6inc = (12)

3) (1sc, 1inc) * 6 = (18)

Small SPOTS

with black rope

1.Row: magic ring 6 x

Sew the parts with four feet as in the photo.

TAIL

with white rope

1) Magic ring 4sc

2) 1inc, 3sc = (5)

3) 1inc, 4sc = (6)

4) 1inc, 5sc = (7)

5) 1inc, 6sc = (8)

6) 1inc, 7sc = (9)

7) 1inc, 8sc = (10)

8) 10sc

9) 1inc, 9sc = (11)

10) 11sc

11) 1inc, 10sc = (12)

12) 12sc

13) 1inc, 11sc = (13)

14) 13sc

15) 1inc, 12sc = (14)

16) 14sc

17) 1inc, 13sc = (15)

18) 15sc (repeat 19 times) = (15)

19) (1sc, 1dec) * 5 = (10), fill in.

20) (1dec) * 5 = (5)

finish.

BLACK SPOTS IN BODY

With black rope

BIG SPOTS

With black rope

1) magic ring 6 sc

2) (1inc) * 6 = (12)

3) (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = (18)

4) (2 sc, 1inc) * 6 = (24)

5) (3sc, 1 inc) * 6 = (30)

KITTY SPOTS

With black rope

1) magic ring 6 sc

2) (1inc) * 6 = (12)

3) (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = (18)

Separate the speckles evenly over the entire dog. Also remember ears, legs and tail.

OVERFLOW

Red with rope

1) 4 chain on check, 4sc turn

2) 4sc, turn (repeat 19 times)

NECKLACE

YELLOW with rope

1) magic ring 6 sc

2) (1inc) * 6 = (12)

3) (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 = (18)

4) (2 sc, 1inc) * 6 = (24)

finish.

The post Dalmatians Dog Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

In this article we will share the amigurumi cute dog free crochet pattern. Amigurumi related to everything you can not find and share with you. 

Termonology 

MR Magic Ring 

Ch Chain 

Sl st slip stitch 

Sc single crochet 

Hdc half double crochet 

Dc double crochet 

Tr (or trc) triple (or treble) crochet 

Inc increase (Add one or more stitches.) 

Dec decrease (Eliminate one or more stitches.) 

You will need: 

1. Himalaya “Koala” (100% micropolyester, 100 m / 100 g) – 6 skeins (with a small margin). Tie plain dog or combine 2 colors – in this case, take 4 + 2 or 3 + 3 skeins. 

Hook 4.5 mm or any other convenient for you. For the nose you need a thread of a similar footage or a little thinner. I have Himalaya “Dolphin Baby” color 80337 milk chocolate, hook 4 mm. 

2. Filler (holofiber) – 200-300 g. 

3. Black eye buttons, I have a diameter of 20 mm. 

4. A small piece of white foamiran (plastic suede) or felt for eye protein. Thickness foamirana – 2 mm. 

5. Mouline thread or Iris brown for embroidery eyebrows. 

6. Needle with a blunt end for securing the ends of the threads and sewing parts, a long needle for sewing on the eye. 

7. Optionally – a dry pastel for tinting, you can tint with whatever you like way. 

When using these materials, the dog turns out to be 50 cm tall. 

We knit correctly 

The toy is knitted in a spiral, without connecting posts and lifting loops. 

Front side of the part: Wrong side of the part: 

The description of knitting of this toy is based on the fact that the beginning of the row throughout knitting the entire part does not move and runs in a straight line, but since we knit in a spiral, without loops lifting and connecting column, the beginning of the row will shift right, so every 4-5 rows need to be knit at the end of the row an additional column of displacement, so that the beginning of the row again It turned out to be in the same place. These additional columns in the description of the series are not taken into account. 

Thanks to this way of presenting the description, you will always know where exactly you should have increase or decrease, and the elbow / knee will always be exactly where they should be. 

The offset of the beginning of the row when knitting in a spiral may differ for different yarns and for different density of knitting, so aligning the marker makes the description universal – from any yarn, in any hands will get exactly such a detail as it should be. 

If you knit from Himalaya “Koala”, Alize “Softy” or other similar thread, before starting work inspect all hanks and compare the amount of pile on the thread-basis. Even in one lot, there are hanks with different pile. Do not use these skeins to knit paired parts. Put them on your body or head, or knit both paired parts from one skein. 

Upper legs 

Until the fifth row, the marker is not shifted, then follow the instructions in microns. 

1 row: 6 ch, from the second loop from the hook: 4 sc, 3 sc to the first loop, on the other side of the chain: 3 sc, inc (12) 

2 row: inc, 3 sc, inc x 3, 3 sc, inc x 2 (18) 

3 row: (7 sc, inc x 2) x 2 (22) 

4 row: 8 sc, inc x 2, 9 sc, inc x 2, sc (26) 

5 row: 23 sc, we do not tie the row to the end, we put a marker here. Now the beginning of the series will be here – this middle of the outside of the foot. As a guideline of the middle – the chain of the first row – the beginning of the row should be opposite. If this is not the case, tie up another column or move the marker to the column to the right. 

Align the marker during the knitting process. 

6-8 rows (3 rows): 26 sc (26) 

9 row: 11 sc, dec x 2, 11 sc (24) 

10 row: 10 sc, dec x 2, 10 sc (22) 

11 row: 9 sc, dec x 2, 6 sc, dec, sc (19) 

12 row: sc, dec, 5 sc, dec x 2, 7 sc (16) 

13 row: 13 sc, dec, sc (15) 

14 row: sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, sc (13) 

15 row: sc, dec, 10 sc (12) 

Fill the foot with filler, loose. It should remain flat and soft. The upper (narrow) part of the foot is NOT stuffed. 

16-27 rows (12 rows): 12 sc (12) 

Mark the 6th sc in the last row of the right foot with an extra marker. 

We cut the thread, fix it. We knit the second foot in the same way. 

Lower paws 

Until the fifth row, the marker is not shifted, then follow the instructions in microns. 

1 row: 9 ch, from the second loop from the hook: 7 sc, 3 sc to the first loop, on the other side of the chain: 6 sc, inc (18) 

2 row: inc, 6 sc, inc x 3, 6 sc, inc x 2 (24) 

3 row: inc, 9 sc, inc x 3, 9 sc, inc x 2 (30) 

4 row: (12 sc, inc x 3) x 2 (36) 

5 row: 34 sc, we do not tie the row to the end, we put a marker here. Now the beginning of the series will be here – this mid heel. As a guideline of the middle – the chain of the first row – the beginning of the row should be opposite. If this is not the case, tie up another column or move the marker to the column to the right. 

Align the marker during the knitting process. 

6-11 rows (6 rows): 36 sc (36) 

12 row: 13 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 2, 13 sc (33) 

13 row: 13 sc, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, 12 sc (30) 

14 row: 12 sc, dec x 3, 5 sc, (dec, sc) x 2, dec (use the first column of the next row) (24) 

15 row: (sc, dec) x 2, 18 sc (22) 

16 row: 19 sc, dec, sc (21) 

17 row: sc, dec, 18 sc (20) 

Fill the foot with filler, loose. Top (narrow) part of the foot is NOT stuffed. 

18-29 rows (12 rows): 20 sc (20) 

Mark the 10th sc in the last row of the right foot with an extra marker. 

We cut the thread, fix it. We knit the second foot in the same way. 

Body 

The marker at the beginning of the row runs in the middle of the back. 

1 row: 2 ch, 6 sc in the first loop (6) 

2 row: inc x 6 (12) 

3 row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18) 

4 row: sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24) 

5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30) 

6 row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36) 

Place the second marker in the middle of the row to notice errors earlier. 

7 row: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42) 

8 row: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48) 

9 row: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54) 

10 row: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 5, 4 sc (60) 

11 row: (9 sc, inc) x 6 (66) 

12 row: 5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) x 5, 5 sc (72) 

13 row: (11 sc, inc) x 6 (78) 

14 row (knit the lower paws): 14 sc, apply the left lower paw to the body, enter hook to the last column of the foot, then to the body column along the knitting and knit 10 sc through 2 paintings: continue to knit on the body: 30 sc, put the right lower foot to the body, insert the hook into marked column of the foot, then into the body column along the knitting and knit 10 sc through 2 canvases: continue to knit on the body: 14 sc (78) 

In the next row, when passing from the body to the foot and from the foot to the body, small holes may occur. 

To avoid them, I recommend in these places to capture the corner loops (which do not participate in knitting) and knit them as a decrease along with the working column. Use the same method when knitting the upper legs and head. 

15 row: 14 sc, 10 sc along the free loops of the left lower foot, 30 sc, 10 sc along loops of the lower right foot, 14 sc (78) 

16-24 rows (9 rows): 78 sc (78) 

25 row: (dec, 11 sc) x 6 (72) 

26 row: 72 sc (72) 

27 row: 5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) x 5, 5 sc (66) 

28 row: 66 sc (66) 

29 row: (dec, 9 sc) x 6 (60) 

30 row: 60 sc (60) 

31 row: 17 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 3, 17 sc (56) 

32 row: 25 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 25 sc (54) 

33 row: 54 sc (54) 

34 row: (dec, 7 sc) x 6 (48) 

35-39 rows (5 rows): 48 sc (48) 

In the next row we knit the upper legs similarly to the lower ones. 

40 row (we knit the upper legs): 9 sc, 6 sc together with the left foot, continue to knit body: 18 sc, 6 sc together with the right foot, continue to knit on the body: 9 sc (48) 

41 row: 9 sc, 6 sc along the free loops of the left foot, continue to knit over the body: 18 sc, 6 sc on the free loops of the right foot, continue to knit on the body: 9 sc (48) 

42-44 rows (3 rows): 48 sc (48) 

45 row: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 5, 3 sc (42) 

46 row: (dec, 5 sc) x 6 (36) 

47 row: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30) 

In the next row we mark with an additional marker 18th sc. 

48 row: (dec, 3 sc) x 4, dec, sc (mark it with an additional marker), 2 sc, dec, 3 sc (24) 

We cut the thread, fix it. We stuff the body filler, loose. The body should remain soft. 

Head 

Until the sixth row, the marker is not shifted, then follow the instructions in microns. 

1 row: 13 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 11 sc, 3 sc to the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 10 sc, inc (26) 

2 row: inc, 10 sc, inc x 3, 10 sc, inc x 2 (32) 

3 row: sc, inc, 11 sc, inc, (sc, inc) x 2, 11 sc, inc, sc, inc (38) 

In the next row, we mark the 19th sc with an additional marker. 

4th row: sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 2 sc (mark the second column with an additional marker), inc, 2 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (44) 

5 row (we knit a hole for the mouth): 20 ch, 18 sc skip, continue to knit with the column marked in the previous row: inc, 3 sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc (50) 

6 row: 20 sc in a chain, 15 sc, row to kwe do not tie the end, we put a marker here. Now the beginning of the row will be here – this is the middle of the upper part of the nose. We align the marker in the process of knitting the head. 

7-10 rows (4 rows): 50 sc (50) 

While we put off knitting the head and knit ROTIK. Pull the end of the thread from the middle of the skein or use a thread from another hank. We unfold the muzzle with the beginning of knitting to ourselves and attach thread to the corner of the knitted hole on the right side: 

1 row: 1 sc in the corner, 18 sc in the missing columns of the muzzle, 1 sc in the corner, 20 sc in chain (40) 

On the edge of the connected columns we stretch a contrasting thread – it will help you orient yourself where insert the hook when closing the mouth opening. 2 row: 40 sc (40) 

Pull the small end of the thread (so that it is enough for 20 sl-st) and cut it. Turn the mouth inside muzzle and pull the working thread: 

We continue to knit the connecting posts through 2 canvases, introducing the hook into the marked with a marker loops (i.e. we knit under the loops of the previous row): 

We knit 20 sl-st to the end of the mouth. We fix the thread, cut off the excess and twist the muzzle on front side. 

We continue to knit the head. 

11 row: 42 sc, (dec, sc) x 2, dec (47) 

12 row: dec, (sc, dec) x 2, 31 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2 (42) 

13 row: (2 sc, dec) x 2, 34 sc (40) 

If you want to make the muzzle a different color, in the 14th row after the 20th column, replace the thread (so, so that the color transition falls on the lower part of the head and is invisible). 

14 row: 29 sc, inc, (sc, inc) x 5 (46) 

15 row (we knit a hole under the left eye): (inc, sc) x 5, inc, 20 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 3, inc, 1 ch, 1 sc skip, sc, inc, 2 sc (57) 

16 row (we knit a hole under the right eye): 2 sc, inc, sc, 1 ch, 1 sc skip, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 3, 42 sc (62) 

17 row: 49 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) x 3 (66) 

18 row: (inc, 3 sc) x 3, inc, 53 sc (70) 

19 row: 57 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) x 3 (74) 

20 row: (inc, 3 sc) x 3, inc, 61 sc (78) 

21 row (we knit the body): 33 sc, put the head to the body, insert the hook into the marked column body from the wrong side to the outside, then into the head column along the knitting and knit 12 sc through 2 webs, continue to knit on the head: 33 sc (78) 

22 row: 33 sc, continue to knit on the free columns of the body: 12 sc on the body, continue to knit on the head: 33 sc (78) 

23-28 rows (6 rows): 78 sc (78) 

29 row: (dec, 11 sc) x 6 (72) 

30 row: 5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) x 5, 5 sc (66) 

31 row: (dec, 9 sc) x 6 (60) 

32 row: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 5, 4 sc (54) 

33 row: (dec, 7 sc) x 6 (48) 

34 row: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 5, 3 sc (42) 

35 row: (dec, 5 sc) x 6 (36) 

36 row: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30) 

We fill the head with filler. Very neatly with a muzzle, do not overwork it. Hold your mouth in the process of stuffing so that it doesn’t twist. Do not stuff the lower lip. Stuff your neck separately so that the head does not dangle. 

37 row: (dec, 3 sc) x 6 (24) 

38 row: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, sc (18) 

Fill the filler to the end. If the head falls over under the weight of the muzzle – add filler in the back of the head. 

39 row: (dec, sc) x 6 (12) 

40 row: dec x 6 (6) 

We cut the thread, fix it. 

Ears 

The marker in this part is not aligned. 

1 row: 2 ch, 6 sc in the first loop (6) 

2 row: inc x 6 (12) 

3 row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18) 

4 row: sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24) 

5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30) 

6 row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36) 

7-11 rows (5 rows): 36 sc (36) 

12 row: (dec, 16 sc) x 2 (34) 

13 row: 34 sc (34) 

14 row: (dec, 15 sc) x 2 (32) 

15 row: 32 sc (32) 

16 row: (dec, 14 sc) x 2 (30) 

17 row: 30 sc (30) 

18 row: (dec, 13 sc) x 2 (28) 

19 row: 28 sc (28) 

20 row: (dec, 12 sc) x 2 (26) 

21 row: 26 sc (26) 

22 row: (dec, 11 sc) x 2 (24) 

23 row: 24 sc (24) 

24 row: (dec, 10 sc) x 2 (22) 

25 row: 22 sc (22) 

26 row: (dec, 9 sc) x 2 (20) 

27 row: 20 sc (20) 

28 row: (dec, 8 sc) x 2 (18) 

29 row: 18 sc (18) 

30 row: (dec, 7 sc) x 2 (16) 

31 row: 16 sc (16) 

32 row: (dec, 6 sc) x 2 (14) 

33 row: 14 sc (14) 

We cut the thread, fix it. Fold the part in half. 

We knit the second eye in the same way. Do not stuff ears need to. 

Tail 

The marker in this part is not aligned. 

1 row: 2 ch, 6 sc in the first loop (6) 

2 row: inc x 6 (12) 

3-5 rows (3 rows): 12 sc (12) 

6-14 rows (9 rows): dec, 3 sc, inc x 2, 3 sc, dec (12) 

We cut the thread, fix it. Fill the tip of the tail with filler. 

Nose 

The marker in this part is not aligned. 

IF YOU KNIT YOUR SHOE WITH THE SAME YARNES YOU KNIT THE DOG: 

1 row: 5 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 3 sc, 3 sc to the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, inc (10) 

2 row: inc, 2 sc, inc x 3, 2 sc, inc x 2 (16) 

3 row: sc, inc, 3 sc, (inc, sc) x 2, inc, 3 sc, inc, sc, inc (22) 

4 row: 22 sc (22) 

We cut the thread, fix it. 

FOR COMBINING HIMALAYA “KOALA” + HIMALAYA “DOLPHIN 

BABY “: 

1 row: 7 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 5 sc, 3 sc to the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 4 sc, inc (14) 

2 row: inc, 4 sc, inc x 3, 4 sc, inc x 2 (20) 

3 row: sc, inc, 5 sc, (inc, sc) x 2, inc, 5 sc, inc, sc, inc (26) 

4 row: 26 sc (26) 

We cut the thread, fix it. 

Registration 

We sew all the details with sewing thread in several additions. Not sure how to sew the parts neatly? 

Watch the video here. 

Sew the tail. The lower point of the tail (the end of knitting) is located at the level of the lower legs, the top point of the tail is 4-5 rows higher. 

Sew on the spout by adding a little filler. 

From white foamiran or felt, we cut out the whites of the eyes, slightly larger than the selected eyes in size. Eyes we sew with a strong thread, I use Iris and I embroider the eyebrows with it. 

We introduce a long needle into the left corner of the mouth and withdraw into the hole for the right eye. Pick up eye loop, insert the needle into the same hole and withdraw at the point of the left eye. 

We grab the eye loop, insert the needle into the same hole and bring it to the right corner of the mouth. 

Insert the needle into the left corner of the mouth (the thread goes over the canvas), put it in the place of the right eyebrow, a little tighten so that the thread drowned in her mouth. 

We embroider the eyebrows and return to the starting point. We tie the ends of the threads to several knots and hide inside the head. 

Sew on the ears in any position you like. First, sew the bottom of the eyelet, and then the top one. 

You can toned the area around the eyes, eyebrows and mouth. On fluffy yarn you can cut a little pile in the mouth – the smile will become more pronounced. 

Did you like to knit with me? Come to the forum 

“Knitted life” and create in a big company enthusiastic needlewomen! 

The post Amigurumi Happy Cute Dog Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

Legendary amigurumi animal patterns are available on this site for free. In this article, a wonderful amigurumi dog pattern is waiting for you. 

Required materials and tools:  

1) for the head and upper legs, Bambino Nako yarn (25% wool, 75% acrylic, 130m / 50g) light beige – 2 pcs .;  

2) for panties yarn “Bambino” Kamtex (25% wool, 75% acrylic, 130m / 50g) red – 1 pc .;  

3) for boots “Bambino” Kamtex yarn (25% wool, 75% acrylic, 130m / 50g) orange – 0.5 pcs;  

4) for the sole yarn “Bambino” Kamtex (25% wool, 75% acrylic, 130m / 50g) white – a little;  

5) for a shirt yarn “Bambino” Kamtex (25% wool, 75% acrylic, 130m / 50g) light blue – 2 pcs .;  

6) for a vest yarn “Bambino” Kamtex (25% wool, 75% acrylic, 130m / 50g) yellow – 1 pc .;  

7) for a scarf, “Bambino” Nako yarn (25% wool, 75% acrylic, 130m / 50g) of light green color – 0.5 pcs;  

8) for the outer side of the ears yarn “Podmoskovnaya” from Troitsk (50% wool, 50% acrylic, 250m / 100g), color “cognac” – 0.5 pcs .;  

9) for the inner side of the ears “Bambino” Kamtex yarn (25% wool, 75% acrylic, 130m / 50g) light pink – 0.5 pcs;  

10) brown “Iris” thread for eyes – a little;  

11) light blue “Iris” or “Mouline” threads – a little;  

12) nylon thread or fishing line for tightening the muzzle – a little;  

13) filler (holofiber, or synthetic winterizer, or synthetic fluff) – 300 gr.  

14) aluminum (or copper) wire for weaving with a diameter of 2 mm for the frame – 3 – 4 m;  

15) white felt for the eyes – a little;  

16) eyes for dolls with a brown ray with a diameter of 16 mm – 1 pair;  

17) plastic black spout 1.5 cm wide – 1 pc .;  

18) transparent super-glue for attaching eyes and nose – a little;  

19) blue buttons with a diameter of about 8 mm – 2 pcs.;  

20) hook number 3;  

21) a needle with a large eye;  

22) scissors;  

23) colored pins for marking;  

24) white plastic or thick white cardboard for insoles – a little;  

25) white adhesive plaster or electrical tape for wrapping the ends of the wire;  

26) dry pastels or ordinary matte brown shades for toning.  

From the indicated materials, a toy is obtained with a size of 50 cm, excluding standing ears!  

Knitting tips:  

✓ Be sure to use a marker at the beginning of each row to help mark the first stitch of the new row.  

✓ Knit tightly enough, the aesthetic appearance of the toy will ultimately depend on this.  

With loose (loose) knitting, holes will glow after stuffing.  

✓ Stuff the toy tightly so that it does not lose its shape, but try not to stretch the canvas. Spend more time packing, try to keep the details filled like the ones shown by me. The final result and the appearance of the toy strongly depend on the correct filling.  

Abbrevations:  

CH – air loop;  

SC – single crochet;  

INC – single crochet increase;  

DEC – single crochet decrease;  

DC – double crochet;  

INCDC – increase in a column with a crochet;  

DECDC – Decrease of the double crochet;  

HDC – half double crochet;  

DECHDC – double crochet decrease;  

SL-ST – connecting post;  

BLO – back half loop;  

FLO – front half loop.  

Stage 1. Head.  

We knit in a spiral with light beige threads.  

1st row: 6 SC into magic ring (6)  

2nd row: 6 INC (12)  

3 row: (SC, INC) * 6 (18)  

4th row: SC, INC, (2 SC, INC) * 5, SC (24)  

5 row: (3 SC, INC) * 6 (30)  

6 row: 2 SC, INC, (4 SC, INC) * 5, 2 SC (36)  

7 row: (5 SC, INC) * 6 (42)  

8 row: 3 SC, INC, (6 SC, INC) * 5, 3 SC (48)  

9 row: (7 SC, INC) * 6 (54)  

10 row: 4 SC, INC, (8 SC, INC) * 5, 4 SC (60)  

11 row: (9 SC, INC) * 6 (66)  

12th row: 5 SC, INC, (10 SC, INC) * 5, 5 SC (72)  

13 row: (11 SC, INC) * 6 (78)  

14-20 row (7 rows): 78 SC (78)  

21 row: 6 SC, INC, (12 SC, INC) * 5, 6 SC (84)  

22 – 28 row (7 rows): 84 SC (84)  

29 row: 35 SC, (SC, INC) * 3, 2SC, (SC, INC) * 3, 35 SC (90)  

30 row: 35 SC, (2 SC, INC) * 3, 2SC, (2 SC, INC) * 3, 35 SC (96)  

31 row: 35 SC, (3 SC, INC) * 3, 2SC, (3 SC, INC) * 3, 35 SC (102)  

32 row: 35 SC, (4 SC, INC) * 3, 2SC, (4 SC, INC) * 3, 35 SC (108)  

33 row: 35 SC, (5 SC, INC) * 3, 2SC, (5 SC, INC) * 3, 35 SC (114)  

34 – 39 row (6 rows): 114 SC (114)  

40 row: 35 SC, (5 SC, DEC) * 3, 2SC, (5 SC, DEC) * 3, 35 SC (108)  

41 – 43 row (3 rows): 108 SC (108)  

44 row: 35 SC, (4 SC, DEC) * 3, 2SC, (4 SC, DEC) * 3, 35 SC (102)  

45 – 47 row (3 rows): 102 SC (102)  

48 row: 35 SC, (3 SC, DEC) * 3, 2SC, (3 SC, DEC) * 3, 35 SC (96)  

49 – 51 rows (3 rows): 96 SC (96)  

52 row: 35 SC, (2 SC, DEC) * 3, 2SC, (2 SC, DEC) * 3, 35 SC (90)  

53 – 55 row (3 rows): 90 SC (90)  

56 row: 35 SC, (1 SC, DEC) * 3, 2SC, (1 SC, DEC) * 3, 35 SC (84)  

57 row: 6 SC, DEC, (12 SC, DEC) * 5, 6 SC (78)  

58-60 row (3 rows): 78 SC (78)  

Row 61: (11 SC, DEC) * 6 (72)  

62 – 64 row (3 rows): 72 SC (72)  

65 row: 5 SC, DEC, (10 SC, DEC) * 5, 5 SC (66)  

66 – 68 row (3 rows): 66 SC (66)  

We fix the thread, cut it off. We fill our head with filler.  

Stage 2. Hands.  

First, knit the fingers with light beige threads. Each hand has 4 fingers (thumb, forefinger, middle and little finger). For the left and right hand, the fingers are knitted the same way.  

Thumb and pinky.  

1st row: 7 SC into magic ring (7)  

2 – 5 row (4 rows): 7 SC (7)  

We fix and cut the thread.  

Index finger and middle finger.  

1st row: 7 SC into magic ring (7)  

2 – 6 rows (5 rows): 7 SC (7)  

We fasten and cut the thread on one finger, and leave the thread on the second finger, continue to connect the fingers into the palm.  

Right hand:  

Row 1: 6 SC on the pinky, SC on the pinky and SC on the middle finger together DEC, 3 SC on the middle finger, SC on the middle finger and SC on the index finger together DEC, 5 SC on the index finger, SC on the index finger and SC on the middle finger together DEC, SC on the middle finger (18)  

Important! The marker for the beginning of the row runs down the middle of the back of the hand. Make sure that the marker does not move out during knitting, if necessary, knit offset loops.  

2nd row: SC, INC, (2 SC, INC) * 5, SC (24)  

3rd row: 24 SC (24)  

In the next row we tie the thumb.  

4th row: 17 SC in the palm, 3 SC together with the thumb (simultaneously grab SC of the palm and SC of the thumb), 4 SC in the palm (24)  

5 row: 17 SC in the palm, 4 SC in the thumb, 4 SC in the palm (25)  

6 row: 25 SC (25)  

7 row: (2 SC, DEC) * 6, SC (19)  

8 row: 4 SC, DEC, 8 SC, DEC, 3 SC (17)  

Important! Decreases in the 8th row are in the middle of the ribs of the palm above and below. If necessary, knit offset loops.  

We fill the fingers and palm with filler.  

We tie it up to the middle of the lower edge of the palm, transfer the marker here.  

Change the thread to light blue.  

9 row: 17 SC (17)  

10 row: INC, 7 SC, INC, 8 SC (19)  

Important! Increases in the 10th row are in the middle of the ribs of the palm above and below. If necessary, knit offset loops.  

11 – 12 row (2 rows): 19 SC (19)  

Row 13: for BLO INC, 9 SC, INC, 8 SC (21)  

14 – 20 row (7 rows): 21 SC (21)  

Row 21: 2 INC, 9 SC, INC, 9 SC (24)  

Note: 2 INC forms a cubot.  

Cut off 40 cm of wire. At the end we make a small loop, twist, insulate the twisted ends with adhesive tape or tape. We make two such blanks.  

We insert the wire blank into the handle. We fill the handle with filler.  

22 – 29 row (8 rows): 24 SC (24)  

We fix the thread, cut it off. We fill the handle to the end.  

We turn the handle in the direction of the palm away from ourselves.  

We attach a light blue thread to the first half-loop of the 13th row left where we knitted for BLO, and knit the cuffs of the sleeves of the shirt.  

1 – 5 row (5 rows): 19 SC (19)  

We fix the thread, cut it off, hide the ends.  

Sew a blue button 8 mm in diameter on top of the cuff.  

Left hand:  

1st row: 6 SC on the index finger, SC on the index finger and SC on the middle finger knit together DEC, 3 SC on the middle finger, SC on the middle finger and SC on the little finger knit together DEC, 5 SC on the little finger, SC on the little finger and SC of the middle finger knit together DEC , SC on the middle finger (18)  

Important! The marker for the beginning of the row runs down the middle of the back of the hand. Make sure that the marker does not slide out during knitting, if necessary, knit offset loops.  

2nd row: SC, INC, (2 SC, INC) * 5, SC (24)  

3rd row: 24 SC (24)  

In the next row we tie the thumb.  

4th row: 4 SC in the palm, 3 SC together with the thumb (simultaneously grab SC of the palm and SC of the thumb), 17 SC in the palm (24)  

5 row: 4 SC in the palm, 4 SC in the thumb, 17 SC in the palm (25)  

6 row: 25 SC (25)  

7 row: SC, (2 SC, DEC) * 6 (19)  

8 row: 4 SC, DEC, 8 SC, DEC, 3 SC (17)  

Important! Decreases in the 8th row are in the middle of the ribs of the palm above and below. If necessary, knit offset loops.  

We fill the fingers and palm with filler.  

We tie it up to the middle of the upper edge of the palm, transfer the marker here.  

Change the thread to light blue.  

9 row: 17 SC (17)  

10 row: INC, 8 SC, INC, 7 SC (19)  

Important! Increases in the 10th row are in the middle of the ribs of the palm above and below. If necessary, knit offset loops.  

11 – 12 row (2 rows): 19 SC (19)  

Row 13: for BLO INC, 8 SC, INC, 9 SC (21)  

14 – 20 row (7 rows): 21 SC (21)  

Row 21: INC, 9 SC, 2 INC, 9 SC (24)  

Note: 2 INC forms a cubot.  

We insert the wire blank into the handle. We fill the handle with filler.  

22 – 29 row (8 rows): 24 SC (24)  

We fix the thread, cut it off. We fill the handle to the end.  

We turn the handle in the direction of the palm away from ourselves.  

We attach a light blue thread to the first half-loop of the 13th row left where we knitted for BLO, and knit the cuffs of the sleeves of the shirt.  

1 – 5 row (5 rows): 19 SC (19)  

We fix the thread, cut it off, hide the ends.  

Sew a blue button 8 mm in diameter on top of the cuff.  

Stage 3. Legs.  

We knit the sole of the shoes with white threads.  

1 row: we collect a chain of 10 CH + 2 CH, in the third loop from the hook 4 DC, then 8 DC along the chain of CH, 5 DC in the last loop, 8 DC on the other side of the chain of CH, SL-ST (26)  

2nd row: 2 CH, DC in the same loop, 4 INCDC, 8 DC, 5 INCDC, 8 DC, SL-ST (36)  

3rd row: 2 CH, DC in the same loop, DC, (INCDC, DC) * 4, 8 DC, (INCDC, DC) * 5, 8 DC, SL-ST (46)  

According to the resulting trail, we cut out two blanks from white plastic or cardboard.  

4th row: for BLO 16 SC, 3 HDC, 21 DC, 3 HDC, 3 SC (46)  

Important! DC should be located in the front center of the toe. If necessary, knit offset loops.  

In the fourth row, we cut the thread, but do not fix it, that is, we pull it out and leave the loop, it will be useful to us further.  

We knit the toe of the shoe with a white thread.  

1st row: cast on 3 CH + 1 CH, in the second loop from the hook SC, then 2 more SC along the chain of CH, 3 SC on the other side of the chain of CH, CH, turn (6)  

2nd row: SC, 3 INC, 2 SC, CH, turn (9)  

3rd row: (SC, INC) * 3, 3 SC, CH, turn (12)  

4th row: SC, INC, (2 SC, INC) * 2, 4 SC, CH, turn (15)  

5 row: SC, INC, (3 SC, INC) * 2, 5 SC, CH, turn (18)  

Tie the straight side of the toe SC: 11 SC (11)  

We do not cut the thread, we continue to tie the toe to the shoe as follows: we hook the BLO of the toe and the FLO of the shoe, we knit them SL-ST (see photo below). We fasten the thread on the last loop, cut it off.  

We insert the plastic insole into the shoe.  

Change the thread to orange and continue to knit the shoe where we left the loop stretched out in the fourth row.  

5 row: for BLO we knit SC in a circle: 22 SC at the boot, 11 SC at the toe, 7 SC at the boot (40)  

6 row: DEC, 11 SC, DEC, 5 SC, DEC, 11 SC, DEC, 5 SC (36)  

7-9 row (3 rows): 36 SC (36)  

Cut off 1 m of wire. Fold in half, make a loop at the end in the shape of the foot, twist the ends.  

We make two such blanks. We insert the wire blank into the leg. We fill the boot with filler.  

Change the thread to red.  

10 row: 36 SC (36)  

11 row: for BLO 36 SC (36)  

12th row: 2 SC, DEC, (4 SC, DEC) * 5, 2 SC (30)  

13 – 32 row (20 rows): 30 SC (30)  

We fill the leg with filler while knitting.  

33 row: (4 SC, INC) * 6 (36)  

34 – 35 row (2 rows): 36 SC (36)  

We tie the last 35th row to the middle of the inner side of the leg, fasten the thread, cut it off.  

We attach the red thread to the first left half-loop of the 11th row where we knitted for BLO, and knit a “flare” at the panties.  

1 row: (5 SC, INC) * 6 (42)  

2-4 rows (3 rows): 42 SC (42)  

We fix the thread, cut it off, hide the ends.  

On the bottom of the pants we embroider “stitching” with blue or blue “Iris” threads.  

We knit the second leg in the same way, but in the 35th row we do not cut the thread, but leave it and connect the legs into the body.  

Stage 4. Body.  

On the leg where the thread was left uncut, dial 3 CH, connect it to the second leg:  

1 row: 36 SC on one leg, 3 SC on the CH chain, 36 SC on the second leg, 3 SC on the other side of the CH chain (78)  

We twist the wire from the legs, isolate the ends with adhesive plaster or electrical tape.  

2nd row: 34 SC, (INC, SC) * 2, INC, 34 SC, (INC, SC) * 2, INC (84)  

We tie it to the middle of the right side and transfer the marker for the beginning of the row here.  

3 – 10 rows (8 rows): 84 SC (84)  

We embroider a fly on the pants with blue or blue “Iris” threads.  

Change the thread to light blue and knit the shirt further.  

11 – 41 rows (30 rows): 84 SC (84)  

The 41st row is not tied to the middle of the side 3 SC.  

We fill the body with filler.  

In the next row we tie our hands.  

42 row: 6 SC with the right handle (simultaneously grab the SC of the arms and SC of the body), 36 SC on the body, 6 SC together with the left handle, 36 SC on the body (84)  

43 row: 18 SC on the right handle, 36 SC on the body, 18 SC on the left handle, 36 SC on the body (108)  

We fasten the wire from the handles to the main winding coming from the legs, the ends are well insulated with adhesive plaster or electrical tape.  

44 row: 108 SC (108)  

45 row: (18 SC, DEC, 32 SC, DEC) * 2 (104)  

46 row: (18 SC, DEC, 30 SC, DEC) * 2 (100)  

47 row: (18 SC, DEC, 28 SC, DEC) * 2 (96)  

48 row: (18 SC, DEC, 26 SC, DEC) * 2 (92)  

49 row: (18 SC, DEC, 24 SC, DEC) * 2 (88)  

50 row: (18 SC, DEC, 22 SC, DEC) * 2 (84)  

51 row: (18 SC, DEC, 20 SC, DEC) * 2 (80)  

52 row: (18 SC, DEC) * 4 (76)  

53 row: (18 SC, DEC, 16 SC, DEC) * 2 (72)  

We fill the body with filler.  

54 row: 5 SC, DEC, (10 SC, DEC) * 5, 5 SC (66)  

55 row: 66 SC (66)  

Change the thread to light beige.  

56 – 57 row (2 rows): 66 SC (66)  

We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a long end for sewing on the head.  

Stage 5. Ears.  

We knit two pieces of brown color – this is the outer side of the ear, and two pieces of light pink color are the inner side of the ear.  

Pink lug details:  

1 row: we cast on 12 CH + 1 CH, from the second from the hook of the loop 12 SC, CH, turn (12)  

2nd row: INC, 10 SC, INC, CH, turn (14)  

3-4 row (2 rows): 14 SC, CH, turn (14)  

5 row: INC, 12 SC, INC, CH, turn (16)  

6 – 7 row (2 rows): 16 SC, CH, turn (16)  

8 row: INC, 14 SC, INC, CH, turn (18)  

9 – 22 row (14 rows): 18 SC, CH, turn (18)  

23 row: DEC, 14 SC, DEC, CH, turn (16)  

24 – 25 row (2 rows): 16 SC, CH, turn (16)  

26 row: DEC, 12 SC, DEC, CH, turn (14)  

27 – 28 row (2 rows): 14 SC, CH, turn (14)  

Row 29: DEC, 10 SC, DEC, CH, turn (12)  

30 – 31 rows (2 rows): 12 SC, CH, turn (12)  

32 row: DEC, 8 SC, DEC, CH, turn (10)  

We fix the thread, cut it off.  

We knit the brown details of the ears in the same way, but we do not cut the thread on them.  

We continue to knit, connect the details of the ears, tying along the SC contour (see photo below).  

We do not sew the finished ears yet.  

Stage 6. Tail.  

We knit with a light beige thread.  

1st row: 5 SC into magic ring (5)  

2nd row: 5 SC (5)  

3rd row: 5 INC (10)  

4-9 row (6 rows): 10 SC (10)  

10 row: (SC, INC) * 5 (15)  

11 – 22 row (10 rows): 15 SC (15)  

We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving the end for sewing on the tail. Lightly fill the tail with filler. Do not sew yet.  

Stage 7. Design of the muzzle.  

First, we make markings for tightening using colored pins.  

1) We count from the crown of 30 rows of SC down and in the middle of the protruding part of the muzzle we put a blue pin (point), in this place the nose will be located.  

2) Go up from the blue pin (point) 2 rows of SC perpendicularly upwards, then step back 6 SC to the left and put a green pin (point).  

3) We count from the green pin (point) 2 more SC to the left and put a red pin (point).  

4) Go up from the blue pin (point) 2 rows of SC perpendicularly upwards, then count 6 SC to the right and put a white pin (point).  

5) We count from the white pin (point) 2 more SC to the right and put a pink pin (point).  

The markup is ready, we proceed to the tightening itself. To do this, we need a long needle and a nylon thread or fishing line.  

We insert the needle in the last row of knitting in the center of the head at the back, we output it at the pink point, again we enter it at the white point and output it in the green one, we insert it at the red point and output it into the open hole of the head. We tighten the thread, tie the ends of the thread into several knots (see photo above).  

In place of the blue pin, put a plastic black nose, glue it with super glue.  

Cut out two round blanks from white felt with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the plastic pupils, that is, about 20 mm. We make small cuts in the middle of the felt blanks, insert plastic pupils with a diameter of 16 mm into the cuts. We try on the resulting eyes on the head, put them 3 rows of SC above the ties made.  

Sew the felt blanks to the head with small stitches with small stitches with brown Iris threads.  

We glue the plastic pupils with super glue.  

We embroider the groove running from the spout with brown threads (see photo). We step back from the nose 15 rows of SC down and embroider the mouth with brown Iris threads.  

Go up from the eyes 7 rows SC up and embroider the eyebrows with brown threads.  

With dry pastels (or ordinary matte shadows) of a dark brown color, we tint the eyes, slightly the nose and mouth. We draw with dry pastel a strip on the head and back of the head.  

We retreat from the crown of the head about 5 rows of SC and sew on the left and right ears.  

Stage 8. Vest.  

First, we knit the bottom elastic with yellow threads, turning rows, all rows behind BLO.  

1st row: cast on 5 CH, from the second from the hook of the loop 4 SC, CH, turn (4)  

2 – 73 rows (72 rows): 4 SC, CH, turn (4)  

Fold the edges of the resulting elastic together and connect SC, but for both half-loops.  

Next, we knit the top of the vest. The row start marker is located in the middle of the right side.  

1st row: tie elastic in a circle SC: 74 SC (74)  

From the 2nd row, we begin to knit a pattern using the jacquard crochet technique.  

2 – 3 rows (2 rows): 46 SC in yellow, 2 SC in light green, 6 SC in yellow, 2 SC in blue, 6 SC in yellow, 2 SC in light green, 10 SC in yellow (74)  

4 – 5 rows (2 rows): 48 SC in yellow, 2 SC in light green, 2 SC in yellow, 6 SC in blue, 2 SC in yellow, 2 SC in light green, 12 SC in yellow (74)  

6 – 7 rows (2 rows): 50 SC in yellow, 2 SC in light green, 6 SC in blue, 2 SC in light green, 14 SC in yellow (74)  

8 – 9 rows (2 rows): 48 SC in yellow, 2 SC in blue, 2 SC in yellow, 2 SC in light green, 2 SC in blue, 2 SC in light green, 2 SC in yellow, 2 SC in blue, 12 SC yellow (74)  

10 – 11 (2 rows): 46 SC in yellow, 6 SC in blue, 2 SC in yellow, 2 SC in light green, 2 SC in yellow, 6 SC in blue, 10 SC in yellow (74)  

12 – 13 rows (2 rows): 48 SC in yellow, 2 SC in blue, 2 SC in yellow, 2 SC in light green, 2 SC in blue, 2 SC in light green, 2 SC in yellow, 2 SC in blue, 12 SC in yellow (74)  

14-15 rows (2 rows): 50 SC yellow, 2 SC light green, 6 SC blue, 2 SC light green, 14 SC yellow (74)  

16 – 17 rows (2 rows): 48 SC in yellow, 2 SC in light green, 2 SC in yellow, 6 SC in blue, 2 SC in yellow, 2 SC in light green, 12 SC in yellow (74)  

18 – 19 rows (2 rows): 46 SC in yellow, 2 SC in light green, 6 SC in yellow, 2 SC in blue, 6 SC in yellow, 2 SC in light green, 10 SC in yellow (74)  

The jacquard pattern ends in the 19th row, then we continue to knit only with yellow threads.  

20-24 row (5 rows): 74 SC (74)  

We do not tie the last 24th row to the middle of the side, i.e. to the marker of the beginning of the row, 5 SC and transfer the marker.  

We put on the vest on the body and only after that we begin to knit the straps.  

25 row: 24 CH, 10 SC skip, 27 SC, 24 CH, 10 SC skip, 27 SC (102)  

26 row: DEC, 22 SC strap, DEC, 25 SC, DEC, 22 SC strap, DEC, 25 SC (98)  

27 row: DEC, 9 SC, DEC, 10 SC, DEC, 24 SC, DEC, 9 SC, DEC, 10 SC, DEC, 24 SC (92)  

28 row: 3 DEC, 13 SC, 3 DEC, 21 SC, 3 DEC, 13 SC, 3 DEC, 21 SC (80)  

29 row: DEC, 17 SC, DEC, 19 SC, DEC, 17 SC, DEC, 19 SC (76)  

We fix the thread, cut it off, hide the ends.  

Sew the head and tail to the body. The ponytail is located on the border of the vest and pants in the center at the back.  

Stage 9. Points.  

Cut off about 60 cm of wire. We make a blank of glasses from wire according to the scheme.  

Dushki about 11 cm.  

To make the rims of the glasses even, take any round object with a diameter of about 4 cm and wrap the wire around this object.  

The distance between the rims is 1 cm.  

After the wire blank is ready, we take the super-glue, spread it on the tips of the darlings and tightly wrap the wire with red thread over all glasses.  

We also spread the places where the thread ends with glue, and then wrap it, cut off the excess thread.  

With small pliers or round-nose pliers, we bend the tips of the darlings inward.  

The glasses are ready! You can put them on Clever-G!  

Stage 10. Scarf.  

We knit with light green threads.  

1st row: we collect a chain of 200 CH + 2 CH, from the third from the loop of the loop 200 DC, 2 CH, turn (200)  

2 – 4 rows (3 rows): 200 DC, 2 CH, turn (200)  

In the last 4th row, we do not knit 2 CH, but fasten the thread, cut it off.  

The scarf is ready! We put on a scarf on Umnik-G. Correcting tint and glasses.  

Congratulations!!!  

ready !!! 

The post Mr. Dog Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

We bring you wonderful amigurumi dog patterns free of charge on this site. In this article, I shared the amigurumi dog bark pattern, I hope you like it.

Materials: 

Yarn for the body, legs: Alize Burcum Batik 100% acrylic, 210 m / 100 g, color 3379) For knitting the second dog (bright multi-colored, with green, purple and other stripes) I used Alize Burcum Cizgi 210 m / 100 g, color 2986; 

muzzle yarn: Alize Burcum klasik 100% acrylic, 210 m / 100 g, color 55 white; 

yarn for ears and tail: Plush Vita Fancy 100% polyester, 100 m / 50 g, color 5315 yellow; 

yarn for a nose: Vita Cotton Charm 100% cotton, 106 m / 50 g, color 4152 black; 

filler for toys. I use holofiber balls; 

eyes on a secure mount (on the leg). Size: 4 * 2)2 cm. You can use any others at your discretion; 

hooks No. 3,5 and 2,5; 

blunt needle for stitching parts; 

Crystal Moment glue. 

Abbreviations: 

sc – single crochet 

hdc – half double crochet 

(1 sc, inc) * 6 – repeat 6 times what is written in brackets, if indicated * 2 – repeat 2 times, * 3 – 3 times, etc. 

inc – increase, knit 2 single crochet in one loop 

dec – decrease, knit 2 stitches together with a single crochet 

dec * 4 – make 4 decreases in a row (dec * 2 – 2 decreases, etc.) 

Now let’s start knitting. We will crochet No. 3,5 tightly enough. 

PATTERN 

Head-to-body: 

1)6 sc into magic ring 

2) inc * 6 = 12 

3) (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18 

4) (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24 

5) (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30 

6) (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) * 6 = 36 

7) (5 sc, inc) * 6 = 42 

8) (3 sc, inc, 3 sc) * 6 = 48 

9-18) 48 sc (10 rows) 

Insert the eyes between 10 and 11 rows. Slowly we stuff the detail of the toy in the process of knitting. 

If you use the same eyes as mine, then, in addition to the main attachment, in addition to the back of the eye, you need to apply glue and stick them directly to the head (do not apply glue close to the edges so that it does not leak out of the eyes), then they will fit snugly and will not move. 

19) (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) * 6 = 42 

20) (5 sc, dec) * 6 = 36 

21) (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) * 6 = 30 

22) (3 sc, dec) * 6 = 24 

23) (2 sc, dec) * 6 = 18 

24-25) 18 sc (2 rows) 

26) (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24 

27)24 sc 

28) (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30 

29)30 sc 

30) (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) * 6 = 36 

31-33) 36 sc (3 rows) 

34) (11 sc, inc) * 3 = 39 

35) (6 sc, inc, 6 sc) * 3 = 42 

36-42) 42 sc (7 rows) 

43) (5 sc, dec) * 6 = 36 

44) (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) * 6 = 30 

45) (3 sc, dec) * 6 = 24 

46) (2 sc, dec) * 6 = 18 

47) (1 sc, dec) * 6 = 12 

48) dec * 6 = 6 sc, cut the thread, leaving a small tip, thread it into every second sc, tighten the hole, fasten the thread. 

Upper legs (2 parts): 

1)6 sc into magic ring 

2)inc * 6 = 12 sc 

3) (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18 

4) (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24 

5-8) 24 sc (4 rows) 

9) (4 sc, dec) * 4 = 20 

10) (8 sc, dec) * 2 = 18 

11-14) 18 sc (4 rows) 

15) (7 sc, dec) * 2 = 16 

16-17) 16 sc (2 rows) 

18) (6 sc, dec) * 2 = 14 

19-23) 14 sc (5 rows) 

24) (5 sc, dec) * 2 = 12 

25)12 sc 

We fill it with 2/3 filler, there should not be filler in the top of the foot. 

26) dec * 6 = 6 sc, cut the thread, leaving a small tip, thread it into every second sc, tighten the hole, fasten the thread. 

Having tied the second foot, leave the thread to sew both feet to the body. 

Lower legs (2 parts): 

We collect 5 air loops and start knitting in 2 loops from the hook (in the diagram this is a loop under the number 4). 

1) (3 sc, 3 sc in one loop) * 2 = 12 

We make the second increase of 3 loops into 5 loops, into its back wall, focus on the diagram, this loop will be from the side and tight, you can take a smaller hook for convenience. 

Mark the beginning of the row with a marker or thread of a different color so as not to get confused. We knit tightly. 

2) (3 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc) * 2 = 16 

3) (3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc) * 2 = 20 

4) (3 sc, inc, 5sc, inc) * 2 = 24 

5) (3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc) * 2 = 30 

6) (3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc) * 2 = 38 

7-9) 38 sc 

When decreasing in the next 3 rows, use a smaller hook, for example 2)5) Try to knit the decreases tightly, so that later when you fill the filler, you will not see large holes in the places of the decreases. If nevertheless it cannot be accurately knitted, then later, when the part is tied, you can additionally stitch these holes with the same yarn. 

10)5 sc, dec * 7, 19 sc = 31 

11)4 sc, dec * 4, 10 sc, dec * 2, 5 sc = 25 

12) 4 sc, all 4 decreases of the previous row decrease together 1 decrease, 17 sc = 22 

13-14) 22 sc (2 rows) 

15)1 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 13 sc = 20 

16-17) 20 sc 

18)4 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 4 sc = 18 

19-23) 18 sc (5 rows) 

24) (1 sc, dec) * 6 = 12 

25) dec * 6 = 6, cut the thread, leaving a small tip, thread it into every second sc, tighten the hole, fasten the thread. 

After tying the second leg, leave the thread to sew both legs to the body. 

Spout: 

Take the hook number 2)5) We use black Vita Cotton Charm yarn. The beginning of knitting is similar to the lower legs. We collect 9 air loops and start knitting in 2 loops from the hook. We knit tightly so that there are no holes. 

1) (7 sc, 3 sc in one loop) * 2 = 20 

The second increase of 3 loops is done in the 7 loop, into its back wall, focus on the scheme, this loop will be from the side and tight, you can take a smaller hook for convenience. 

2) (7 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc) * 2 = 24 

3) (7 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc) * 2 = 28 

4) (7 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc) * 2 = 32 

5)2 sc, 16 hdc, 4 sc = 32 

6) (7 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec) * 2 = 28 

7) (7 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec) * 2 = 24 

8) (7 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec) * 2 = 20 

9) (7 sc, decrease 3 loops with one decrease) * 2 = 16 

Trim the thread, leaving enough to sew the hole in the part, sew the nose to the muzzle, make dots on the muzzle and make 2 wraps around it. About 50 cm. It is better to take with a margin and sew everything with one thread, rather than several pieces. When stitching the nozzle hole, fill the part with filler. 

Muzzle: 

We use white yarn. The beginning of knitting is similar to the lower legs and nose. 

We collect 16 air loops and start knitting in 2 loops from the hook. We knit tightly so that there are no holes. 

1) (14 sc, 3 sc in one loop) * 2 = 34 

We make the second increase of 3 loops into a 14 loop, into its back wall, focus on the diagram that was higher, this loop will be from the side and tight, you can take a smaller hook for convenience. 

2) (14 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc) * 2 = 38 

3) (14 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc) * 2 = 42 

4) (14 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc) * 2 = 48 

5) (14 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc) * 2 = 52 

6-7) 52 sc 

8) (14 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec) * 2 = 48 

9) (14 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec) * 2 = 42 

10) (14 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec) * 2 = 38 

11) (14 sc, dec, 1sc, dec) * 2 = 34 

12) (14 sc, decrease 3 loops with one decrease) * 2 = 30 

We cut the thread, leaving enough to sew up the hole and sew the muzzle to the head. When the hole is half sewn, we begin to fill the part with filler. We look at the photo, which shows which place the muzzle does not need to be filled, leave it empty, neatly distributing the filler along the edges of the part. On this empty place we will have a nose. Sew the hole to the end. 

Ears: 

For ears we use yellow fantasy Vita soft Plush yarn. Hook number 3,5, we knit freely, the yarn is shaggy, you can not make tight loops. When knitting from this yarn, loops are practically invisible, be sure to use a marker or a piece of thread of a different color to mark the beginning of the row. 

You can use 2 markers: one for the beginning of the row, the other for the middle of the row, so there will be no errors in the number of loops. For example, we need to knit 30 loops, we knit from the beginning to the marker, which is in the middle, 15 loops, from it to the end of the row, where the second marker, another 15 loops. It’s easier to navigate. This is for those who have difficulty knitting from this yarn. If something is connected wrong, dissolve the knitting in one loop, hooking its crown to the top. 

This yarn in the knitted part looks good from the inside, so we will use the wrong side as the front side. 

If you cannot tighten the amigurumi ring from this yarn, instead of the ring you can knit 2 air loops and start knitting in the first loop. 

1)6 sc into magic ring 

2) inc * 6 = 12 

3) (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18 

4) (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24 

5) (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30 

6-14) 30 sc (9 rows) 

15) (3 sc, dec) * 6 = 24 

16-17) 24 sc (2 rows) 

We turn the part inside out, now it will be our front one, and continue knitting from the inside (counterclockwise). 

18) (2 sc, dec) * 6 = 18 

19-22) 18 sc (4 rows) 

Fold the part in half and knit 8 sc, leave the tail to sew the ear to the head. We do not stuff ears with a filler. 

Tail: 

For the tail we use the same yarn as for the ears, Vita soft Plush. 

1)6 sc into magic ring 

2) inc * 6 = 12 

3) (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18 

4-6) 18 sc (3 rows) 

7) (4 sc, dec) * 3 = 15 

We cut the thread, leave a small tail for sewing the tail to the body. 

Mouth: 

We use the yarn that knitted the body, Alize Burcum Batik. 

1)6 sc into magic ring 

2) inc * 6 = 12 

3) (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18 

4)18 sc 

We cut the thread, leave a small tail for sewing the mouth to the head. We add the part in half, we don’t need to fill it, we will just sew the mouth under the white muzzle. 

Now let’s get down to the face design. 

We take the nose (the side where the half-crochets went with us should be near the eyes), now the thread from the nose moves away from the edge, we will move it a bit: with the help of a needle or hook we remove the thread from the back from the middle of the nose. 

Then we put the nose to the muzzle, in the place where there was no filler, we make a couple of twists in the middle of the white muzzle, forming the muzzle, as in the photo. 

Then we sew the nose to the muzzle, stitching it through, in this place, under the nose, it should be as flat as possible. Embroider black dots. Done. 

This is how all the details of the toy look together (plus the mouth): 

Now we sew the muzzle and the back of the nose to the head. The white muzzle should be located at a distance of two rows from the eyes, the nose is located directly under the eyes, end to end. From below we have a mouth, we sew it both to the head and to the muzzle. Sew the ears between 5 and 6 rows. We attach the tail to the ass, filling it with a little filler. 

We connect the paws to the body with the help of a thread fastener, you can make a button fastener, or just sew it so that the toy is static, does not move the paws. With the place of attachment of the paws, we focus on the photo. 

Decorate the dog as you wish. I tied a chain of air loops and hung a small pendant on it. 

That’s all. Our toy is ready! Congratulations  Sizes of the finished toy using the same yarn: sitting 20 cm, standing 28 cm. 

If someone had difficulties in the knitting process, questions, comments, wishes or saw inaccuracies in the master class, you can write me in personal messages at the Masters Fair. 

The post Cute Dog Bark Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

Amigurumi dog patterns are available on this site for free with their quality images. I shared the amigurumi dog muttley pattern in this article.

Materials 

– Beige and black thread 

– Crochet 3.5 

– Black embroidery thread 

– Score marker 

– Red and white felt or cloth 

– Needle of wool and thread 

– Synthetic cotton to fill 

– Pins 

Abbreviations: 

Sc = single crochet 

inc = increase 

dec = decrease 

sl-st = slip stitch 

hdc = half double crochet 

ch = chain

Instructions: All pieces are worked in a spiral (or by rounds), except when another instruction is indicated (for example: ch and turn, which means that it will be worked in rows). Mark the start of each round by placing the stitch marker on the first stitch made. 

Head: (beige) 

1) INTO MAGIC RING 6 sc (6) 

2) 6inc (12) 

3) (1sc, 1inc) x6 (18) 

4) (2sc, 1inc) x6 (24) 

5) (3sc, 1inc) x6 (30) 

6) (4sc, 1inc) x6 (36) 

7) (5sc, 1inc) x6 (42) 

8) (6sc, 1inc) x6 (48) 

9-15) 48 sc 

16) 30sc, 6dec, 6sc (42) 

17-18) 42sc 

19) 30sc, 6inc, 6sc (48) 

20-21) 48sc 

22) (7sc, 1inc) x6 (54) 

23) 54sc 

24) (8sc, 1inc) x6 (60). Start filling. 

25-34) 60sc 

35) (8sc, 1dec) x6 (54) 

36) (7sc, 1dec) x6 (48) 

37) (6sc, 1dec) x6 (42) 

38) (5sc, 1dec) x6 (36) 

39) (4sc, 1dec) x6 (30) 

40) (3sc, 1dec) x6 (24) 

41) 12dec (12) 

42) 6dec (6). Fill firmly and close. 

Body: (Beige color) 

1) INTO MAGIC RING 6 sc (6) 

2) 6inc (12) 

3) (1sc, 1inc) x6 (18) 

4) (2sc, 1inc) x6 (24) 

5) (3sc, 1inc) x6 (30) 

6) (4sc, 1inc) x6 (36) 

7) (5sc, 1inc) x6 (42) 

8) 42sc 

9) (6sc, 1inc) x6 (48) 

10) 48sc 

11) (7sc, 1inc) x6 (54) 

12) 54sc 

13-30) 54sc. Start filling. 

31) (7sc, 1dec) x6 (48) 

32) 48sc 

33) (6sc, 1dec) x6 (42) 

34) 42sc 

35) (5sc, 1dec) x6 (36) 

36) (4sc, 1dec) x6 (30) 

37) (3sc, 1dec) x6 (24) 

38) (2sc, 1dec) x6 (18) 

39) (1sc, 1dec) x6 (12) 

40) 6dec (6). Fill firmly and close. Leave a long piece of thread to sew to the head later. 

Nose: (black color) 

1) INTO MAGIC RING 6 sc (6) 

2) 6inc (12) 

3) (1sc, 1inc) x6 (18) 

4) (2sc, 1inc) x6 (24) 

5) 1inc, 8sc, 2inc, 13sc (27) 

6) 1inc, 11sc, 1inc. Stop the knitting here without finishing the round to form an oval shape. 

Leave a long piece of thread to sew to the muzzle later. 

Ears x 2: (black color) 

1) INTO MAGIC RING 6 sc (6) 

2) 6inc (12) 

3) (1sc, 1inc) x6 (18) 

4) (2sc, 1inc) x6 (24) 

5) (3sc, 1inc) x6 (30) 

6) 30sc 

7) (3sc, 1dec) x6 (24) 

8-10) 24sc 

11) Join the circle and join both sides with 11 sc. 

12) Turn and knit over the previous 11 stitches: Starting from the 2nd sc, make 1hdc, 2hdc, 1sl-st, 1sl-st, 2hdc, 1sl-st, 1sl-st, 2hdc, 1sl-st, 1sl-st. Leave thread to sew to the head later. 

Hair: (beige color) 

1) INTO MAGIC RING 6 sc (6) 

2) 6inc (12) 

3) (1sc, 1inc) x6 (18) 

4) (2sc, 1inc) x6 (24) 

5) (3sc, 1inc) x6 (30) 

6) (4sc, 1inc) x6 (36) 

7) 36sc 

8) 1sc, 3ch, 2sc in the chain (starting from the 2nd chain), 1sc in the next stitch (repeat the sequence until the end and close with sl-st. Leave thread to sew later. 

Hands x2: (beige color) 

1) INTO MAGIC RING 6 sc (6) 

2) 6inc (12) 

3) (1sc, 1inc) x6 (18) 

4-8) 18sc. 

9) 3sc, 4dec, 7sc (14) 

10) 4sc, 2dec, 6sc (12) 

11) 4sc, 2inc, 6sc (14) 

12) 1sc, 1inc, 12sc (15) 

13) 6sc, 1inc, 8sc (16) 

14) 1sc, 1inc, 14sc (17) 

15) 8sc, 1inc, 8sc (18) 

16-22) 18sc 

23) 15sc, 1dec, 1sc (17) 

24) 13sc, 1dec, 2sc (16) 

25) 5sc, 1dec, 5sc, 1dec, 2sc (14) 

26) 5sc, 1dec (12). Fill lightly, leaving the top unfilled to sew to the body. Leave thread to sew to the body. 

Legs x2: (beige color) 

1) INTO MAGIC RING 6 sc (6) 

2) 6inc (12) 

3) (1sc, 1inc) x6 (18) 

4) (2sc, 1inc) x6 (24) 

5-6) 24sc 

7) (2sc, 1dec) x6 (18) 

8-11) 18sc, ch and rotate 

12) 11sc, ch, turn 

13) 11sc 

14) 11hdc, ch, now weave around 

15) 3dec on one side, 3p, 2dec, (take a score marker), 3sc, join the end of the other side with a sl-st. 

16) Now work in the upper circle from the outer side of chain 11sc, then work 3 runs of 11 sc taking the complete stitches. Fill and then close the hole in the heel with a wool needle and the same thread. 

Tail: (Beige) 

1) INTO MAGIC RING 4sc 

2) 1sc, 1inc, 1sc, 1inc (6) 

3) 3sc, 1inc, 1sc, 1inc (8) 

4) 5sc, 1inc, 1sc, 1inc (10) 

5) 6sc, 1inc, 1sc, 1inc, 1sc (12) 

6) 7sc, 1inc, 1sc, 1inc, 1sc, 1inc (15) 

7) 2sc, 2dec, 9sc (13) 

8) 13sc 

9) 8sc, 1inc, 1sc, 1inc, 1sc, 1inc (16) 

10) 16sc 

11) 9sc, 1inc, 1sc, 1inc, 1sc, 1inc, 1sc, 1inc (20) 

12) 20sc. Leave thread to sew to the body. 

Armed: 

Start with the head. The widest part is the muzzle. The area where the decreases were left goes up and is where the eyes will be embroidered later. 

Place the nose on the upper part of the muzzle as shown in the image (the lower edge of the nose should be on the magic ring of the muzzle). Secure with pins and sew. 

At the other end of the head, place the hair and secure with pins. Sew to the head (also sew the fringes) while introducing a little filling to give it a somewhat pointed shape. 

The ears are sewn on the side, thus leaving the fringes down. Add two black strands in the hair. 

Embroider the eyes with the same black thread that was woven, at the height of the decreases. For the line of the eyes use one strand and instead the lines of the eyebrows mark them by going over with several strands. 

To make the mouth and fangs, cut a piece of felt or white cloth in the shape of the image. Place it in the correct position and sew with white sewing thread. Then, embroider the contour lines with the same black thread used for knitting. To do this, start from the middle of the base of the nose and embroider the entire mouth. The fang should be under the teeth but the black line should go under the fang. The vertical lines of the teeth should be embroidered with embroidery floss or other thread thinner than that used to make the border. 

Now sew the head to the body. Then sew arms to the body with the protrusion of the hands to the back. With black thread, embroider 3 lines to mark the fingers. 

Finish filling the legs firmly and sew them tightly together facing the sides and with black thread embroider the 2 lines, pressing a little when sewing. Sew the tail with the curve up, filling tight to shape. Make the strap with red felt. 

The post Dog Muttley Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

The most beautiful amigurumi dog patterns are on this site for free. I shared the amigurumi bulldog pattern for you in this article.

Materials: 

-White yarn 100g, golden yarn 100g, black yarn (1 meter strip), 

Gray yarn for necklace 2mts, yarn of the color you want for necklace. 

-Stuffed 

-Upholstery needle 

-Hook 3.5 and 2.5 

-12mm safety eyes 

-Nose for 3cm plush 

-Silicone gun 

-A stick of silicone 

Symbols: 

-Single crochet (sc) 

-Increase (inc) 

-Decrease (dec) 

BODY 

1. Blank: 6sc on slip ring (6) 

2. Blank: inc to 12 (6 inc) (12) 

3. Blank: inc a 18 (1sc, 1inc) (18) 

4. White: 2sc, 1inc, 2sc, 1inc, 2sc 

Gold: 1inc, 2sc, 1inc, 2sc, 1inc, 2sc, 1inc (24) 

5. White: 3sc, 1inc, 3sc, 1inc, 2sc 

Gold: 1sc, 1inc, 3sc, 1inc, 3sc, 1inc, 3sc, 1inc. (30) 

6. White: 4sc, 1inc, 4sc, 1inc, 2sc 

Gold: 2sc, 1inc, 4sc, 1inc, 4sc, 1inc, 4sc, 1inc. (36) 

7. White: 5sc, 1inc, 5sc, 1inc, 2sc 

Gold: 3sc, 1inc, 5sc, 1inc, 5sc, 1inc, 5sc, 1inc. (42) 

8. Gold: 1sc 

White: 5sc, 1inc, 6sc, 1inc, 3sc 

Gold: 3sc, 1inc, 6sc, 1inc, 6sc, 1inc, 6sc, 1inc (48) 

9. Gold: 1sc 

White: 6sc, 1inc, 7sc, 1inc, 3sc 

Gold: 4sc, 1inc, 7sc, 1inc, 7sc, 1inc, 7sc, 1inc. (54) 

10.White: 8sc, 1inc, 8sc, 1inc, 3sc 

Gold: 5sc, 1inc, 8sc, 1inc, 8sc, 1inc, 8sc, 1inc. (60) 

11-42. knit 24 stitches in white and 36 stitches in gold, trying to make the line as straight as possible. (60) 

43. 8sc, 1dec for the entire round respecting areas of white and gold (54) 

44. knit 54sc respecting white and gold (54) 

45. 7sc, 1dec for the whole round respecting white and gold. (48) 

46. knit 48sc respecting white and gold (48) 

47. 6sc, 1dec for all round respecting white and gold (42) 

48-52. knit 42sc respetand white and gold (42) 

front legs 

(Do 2) 

In white: 

1. 6sc in slip ring (6) 

2. Inc to 12 (6inc) (12) 

3. Inc to 18 (1sc, 1inc) (18) 

4. work the entire round taking only one side of the fabric chain (18) 

5-6. knit 18sc (18) 

7. inc a 24 (2sc, 1inc) (24) 

8-32. knit 24sc (24) 

33. work 4sc in gold, the rest of the round in white (24) 

34. knit centered golden 7sc, the rest in white (24) 

35. knit centered gold 9sc, the rest in white (24) 

36-40. knit 10sc gold centered, the rest in white (24) 

* make folds first, then fill. 

41. dec to 18 (2sc, 1dec) (18) 

42. dec to 12 (1sc, 1dec) (12) 

43. dec to 6 (6dec) (6) 

hind legs 

(Do 2) 

In white: 

1. 6sc in slip ring (6) 

2. inc a 12 (6inc) (12) 

3. inc a 18 (1sc, 1inc) (18) 

4. work the entire round taking only one side of the fabric chain (18) 

5-6. knit 18sc (18) 

7. inc to 20sc (8sc, 1inc, 8sc, 1inc) (20) 

8-12. knit 20sc (20) 

13. Gold: 2sc, 

White: 7sc, 1inc, 9sc, 1inc (22) 

14. 4sc gold centered, the rest in white (22) 

15. 6sc gold centered, the rest in white (22) 

16. 1inc on gold side, 1inc on white side (24) 

17. knit centered gold 9sc, the rest in white (24) 

18. knit 10sc gold centered, the rest in white (24) 

19. knit centered gold 11sc, the rest in white (24) 

20. knit 12sc gold centered, the rest in white (24) 

21. inc at 30sc, respecting white and gold (30) 

22. work 15sc in gold, the rest in white (30) 

23. work 16sc in gold, the rest in white (30) 

24-29. make 1inc per round on the gold side until you have 36sc (36) 

30-33. knit the rounds respecting 16sc in gold, 20sc in white (36) 

* make folds first, then fill 

34. dec to 30 (4sc, 1dec) (30) 

35. dec to 24 (3sc, 1dec) (24) 

36. dec to 18 (2sc, 1dec) (18) 

37. dec to 12 (1sc, 1dec) (12) 

38. dec to 6 (6dec) (6) 

head 

Knit in white and in a spiral 

1. knit 10 chains, cast on 8sc, 3sc on the last chain, 8sc from the other side of the fabric, 3sc on the last chain. (22) 

2. 8sc, 3inc, 8sc, 3inc (28) 

3. 8sc, 2inc, 2sc, 2inc, 8sc, 2inc, 2sc, 2inc (36) 

4. 11sc, 4inc, 14sc, 4inc, 3sc (44) 

5. White: 18sc, Gold: 4sc, White: 8inc, Gold: 4sc, White: 10sc (52) 

6. White: 22sc, Gold: 4sc, White: 8inc, Gold: 4sc, White: 14sc (60) 

7. White: 23sc, Gold: 5sc, White: 2sc, 8inc, 3sc, Gold: 5sc 

White: 14sc (68) 

8-9. White: 23sc, Gold: 7sc, White: 18sc, Gold: 7sc, White: 13sc (68) 

10. White: 22sc, Gold: 10sc, White: 4sc, 8inc, 3sc, Gold: 10sc 

White: 11sc (76) 

11. White: 21sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 22sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 9sc (76) 

12. White: 22sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 21sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 9sc (76) 

13. White: 22sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 22sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 8sc (76) 

14. White: 23sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 21sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 8sc (76) 

15. White: 23sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 22sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 7sc (76) 

16. White: 24sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 21sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 6sc (76) 

17. White: 25sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 22sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 5sc (76) 

18. White: 26sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 20sc, Gold: 12sc, White: 6sc (76) 

19-20. knit 76sc blank (76) 

21. 17sc, 1dec (repeat 4 times) (72) 

22. dec to 66 (10sc, 1dec) (66) 

23. dec to 60 (9sc, 1dec) (60) 

24. dec to 54 (8sc, 1dec) (54) 

25. dec to 48 (7sc, 1dec) (48) 

26. dec to 42 (6sc, 1dec) (42) 

27. dec to 36 (5sc, 1dec) (36) 

28. dec to 30 (4sc, 1dec) (30) 

* we pause to make folds and then fill 

29. dec to 24 (3sc, 1dec) (24) 

30. dec to 18 (2sc, 1dec) (18) 

31. dec to 12 (1sc, 1dec) (12) 

32. dec to 6 (6dec) (6) 

ears 

(Do 2) 

In white: 

1. 6sc in slip ring (6) 

2. 2sc, 1au, 2sc, 1inc (8) 

3. 3sc, 1inc, 3sc, 1inc (10) 

4. 4sc, 1inc, 4sc, 1inc (12) 

5. 5sc, 1inc, 5sc, 1inc (14) 

6. 6sc, 1inc, 6sc, 1inc (16) 

7. 7sc, 1inc, 7sc, 1inc (18) 

8. 8sc, 1inc, 8sc, 1inc (20) 

9. 9sc, 1inc, 9sc, 1inc (22) 

10. 10sc, 1inc, 10sc, 1inc (24) 

11. 11sc, 1inc, 11sc, 1inc (26) 

12. 12sc, 1inc, 12sc, 1inc (28) 

13. 13sc, 1inc, 13sc, 1inc (30) 

14-18. knit 30sc (30) 

fingers 

(Make 16 fingers with thinner strand and 2.5 hook) 

In white: 

1. 6sc in slip ring (6) 

2. knit 6sc (6) 

3. knit 2sc, 1inc, 2sc, 1inc (8) 

line 

In gold: 

1. 8sc in slip ring (8) 

2-3. knit 8sc (8) 

4-9. knit 1inc per round until you have 12sc (12) 

10. knit 12sc 

The post Cute Bulldog Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

The most beautiful varieties of amigurumi dog patterns are available for free on this site. amigurumi sausage dog pattern with you in this article.

Abbrevations:

sc – single crochet 

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet 

inc – increase, knit two columns in one 

dec – knit two stitches together 

(…..) * n – repeat the contents of parentheses n number of times 

sl-st – slip stitch

ch – chain

blo – back half loop 

flo – front half loop 

BODY: 

1) WE KNIT 12 CHAINS. 

2) FROM THE SECOND CHAIN 10 SC, 3 SC IN THE LAST CHAIN AND FOLLOW ON THE OTHER SIDE, 9 SC AND AN INCREASE (24) 

3) INC, 9 SC, 3 INC, 9 SC, 2 INC (30) 

4) SC, INC, 9SC (SC, INC) X 3, 9 SC, (SC, INC) X 2 (36) 

5) 2SC, INC, 9SC, (INC, 3SC) X 2, INC, 9SC, INC, 3SC, INC, SC (42) 

6) 3SC, INC, 10SC, (INC, 4SC) X2, INC, 10SC, INC, 4SC, INC, SC (48) 

7) 5SC, INC, 9SC, INC, 13SC, INC, 9SC, INC, 8 SC (52) 

8 – 9) (52) 

10) 11SC, INC, 25SC, INC, 13SC, INC (55) 

11 – 19) (55) 

20) (9SC, DEC) X 5 (50) 

21 – 23) (50) 

24) (8SC, DEC) X 5 (45) 

25 -28) (45) 

29) (7SC, DEC) X 5 (40) 

30 – 32) (40) 

33) (6SC, DEC) X 5 (35) 

34 – 37) (35) 

38) (5SC, DEC) X 5 (30) 

39 -41) (30) 

42) (4SC, DEC) X 5 (25) 

43-45) (25) 

GO FILLING 

46) AT A POINT 3 SC, INC, 21SC, 2 INC (30) 

47 – 54) (30) 

55) (4SC, DEC) X 5 (25) 

56) (3SC, DEC) X 5 (20) 

57) (2SC, DEC) X 5 (15) 

58) 7 DEC, SC (8) 

CUT THE LONG THREAD FOR SEWING. 

FRONT LEG: (2 pieces) 

1) 5 CHAINS AND WE KNIT AROUND. 

2) WE START AT THE SECOND CAD, 3SC, 3SC AT THE LAST POINT AND FOLLOW ON THE OTHER SIDE, 2 SC, INC (10) 

3) INC, 2SC, 3 INC, 2SC, 2 INC (16) 

4) SC, INC, 2 SC, (SC, INC) X 3, 2 SC, (SC, INC) X 2 (22) 

5) SC, INC, 5 SC, (SC, INC) X 3, 5 SC, (SC, INC) X 2 (28) 

6) SC, INC, 10 SC, INC, 15 SC (30) 

HOW WE FORM EACH FINGER: 

SC, 4 HALF WANDS AND SC 

7) 10SC, (FINGERS) X 4, 12 SC (26) 

8) 10SC, 4SC HERE WE HAVE THE FINGERS WE KNIT THE BASE POINT LEAVING THE FINGERS FORMED, 12 SC (26) 

9) 8 SC, 4 DEC, 10 SC, DECREASES MUST BE ON THE TOES (22) 

10) 7 SC, 3 DEC, 9 SC (19) 

11) 5 SC, 4 DEC, 6 SC (15) 

12) 4 SC, 3 DEC, 5 SC (12) 

13 – 14) (12) 

15) 4 SC, 4 INC, 4 SC (16) 

16) (16) 

17) 7SC, 4 INC, 5SC (20) 

18) (20) 

FROM HERE CHANGES THE PATTERN ACCORDING TO THE LEG TO BE MADE. 

19) 12SC, CHAIN, TURN (LEFT LEG) 

20) 13SC, CHAIN, TURN 

21) 11SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (12) 

22) 10SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (11) 

23) 9SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (10) 

24) DEC, 6SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (8) 

25) DEC, 4SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (6) 

26) DEC, 2 SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (4) LEAVE THE LONG THREAD FOR SEWING. 

19) 1SC, CHAIN, TURN (RIGHT LEG) 

20) 13SC, CHAIN, TURN 

21) 11SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (12) 

22) 10SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (11) 

23) 9SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (10) 

24) 8SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (9) 

25) DEC, 5SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (7) 

26) 5SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (6) 

27) DEC, 2SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (4) 

LEAVE THE LONG THREAD FOR SEWING. 

HIND LEGS: 

1 – 14) KNIT THE SAME AS THE FRONT LEGS 

15) 4SC, 4 INC, 3SC, AT A POINT 3SC (18) 

16) INC, 17SC (19) 

17) 7SC, 4 INC, 8SC (23) 

18) FOLD THE FABRIC AND JOIN 3SC 

19) 15SC, IN A POINT 3SC (18) 

20) (SEE IMAGES BELOW) 5SC, 4 INC, 3SC, SATIN KNIT, TWIST (17) KNIT IN ROWS 

21) 1 CHAIN, 11SC, SATIN POINT, TURN (12) 

22) 1 CHAIN, 3SC, 4 INC, 9SC, (4SC, ROW 21 + 5SC, ROW 20) RUN THE SCORE 

23) 23SC, IN ONE POINT 3SC (26) (4SC, ROW 20 + 22SC, ROW 22) 

24) INC, 25SC (27) (IN CIRCLE) 

25) 15SC, CHAIN, TURN (LEFT LEG FROM HERE) 

26) 16SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (17) 

27) 15SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (16) 

28) 1 CHAIN, 13SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (14) 

29) 1 CHAIN, 11SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (12) 

30) 1 CHAIN, DEC, 7SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (9) 

31) 1 CHAIN, DEC, 4SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (6) 

32) 1 CHAIN, DEC, 1SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (3) 

LEAVE THE LONG THREAD FOR SEWING. 

25) SAT POINT, CHAIN, TURN (RIGHT LEG FROM HERE) 

26) 1 CHAIN, 16SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (17) 

27) 15SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (16) 

28) 1 CHAIN, 13SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (14) 

29) 1 CHAIN, 11SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (12) 

30) 1 CHAIN, 9SC, DEC, CHAIN, SPIN (10) 

31) 1 CHAIN, 7SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (8) 

32) 1 CHAIN, 5SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (6) 

33) 1 CHAIN, DEC, SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN 

LEAVE THE LONG THREAD FOR SEWING. 

HEAD: 

THE HEAD BEGINS TO WEAVE FROM THE MUZZLE. IF WE WANT TO USE ONE OR TWO COLORS 

IT IS OPTIONAL. COLOR CHANGES ARE EXPLAINED IN THE PATTERN. 

SNOUT: (BLACK THREAD). 

1) MAGIC RING WITH 6SC. 

2) INCREASES (12) 

3) (2SC, INC) X 4 (16) 

4 – 5) (16) 

COLOR CHANGE 

6) HERE WE MAKE THE COLOR INSERTS. 

WE KNIT ONLY THE REAR LOOP: 8SC, INC X 3, 2SC, INC X 3 (22) 

7) 1SC, 6SC, 15SC (22) 

8) 2SC, 4SC, 16SC (22) 

9) 2SC, 4SC, 3SC, INC, 10SC, INC, 1SC (24) 

10) 2SC, 4 SC, 18SC (24) 

11) 2SC, 4SC, 2SC, (INC, 4SC) X 3, INC (28) 

12) 2SC, 4SC, 22SC (28) 

13) 3SC, 3SC, 22SC (28) 

14) 3SC, 3SC, (4SC, INC) X 2, 6SC, INC, 4SC, INC (32) 

15) 3SC, 3SC, 14SC, INC, 11SC (33) 

16 – 18) 3SC, 3SC, 27SC (33) 

19) 3SC, 4SC, 14SC, INC, 11SC (34) 

20) 3SC, 4SC, 5SC, INC, 19SC, INC, SC (36) 

21) 3SC, 5SC, 28SC (36) 

22) 2SC, 7SC, 27SC (36) 

23) 2SC, 3SC, DEC, 3SC, (6SC, DEC) X 3, 2SC (32) 

24) SC, 9SC, 22SC (32) 

HERE SEE PHOTO WE KNIT THE ORANGE PART: 

25) 10SC, SATIN POINT, TURN (11) 

26) CHAIN, 2SC, (INC) X 6, 2SC, SAT POINT, TURN (17) 

27) CHAIN, 19SC, SATIN POINT, TURN (20) 

28) CHAIN, 5SC, (INC, SC) X4, INC, 7SC, SAT POINT, SWING (27) 

29) CHAIN, 26SC. WE PLACE A POINT MARKER. 

30) 13SC, 5SC, INC (4SC, INC) X 3, 5SC (43) 

31) 5SC, INC, 2 SC, INC, 5SC, 28SC, SC (45) 

32) 17SC, 26SC, 2SC (45) 

33) 18SC, 24SC, 3SC (45) 

34) 19SC, 22SC, 4SC (45) 

35) 20SC, 20SC, 5SC (45) 

36) 4SC, DEC, 7SC, DEC, 5SC, 2SC, (DEC, 7SC) X 2, DEC, 3SC (40) 

37) 18SC, 18SC, 4SC (40) 

38) 4SC, DEC, 6SC, DEC, 4SC, 2SC, (DEC, 6SC) X 2, DEC, 2SC (35) 

39) (3SC, DEC) X 7 (28) 

40) (2SC, DEC) X 7 (21) 

41) (SC, DEC) X 7 (14) 

42) DECREASES (7) LEAVE THE TAIL WELL LONG AND CLOSE THE HOLE WELL. 

NECK: 

IN THE LOWER ILLUSTRATION WE CAN SEE THE POSITION WHERE THE NECK GOES. 

WE WORK WITH 2 COLORS AGAIN. 

1) LET’S KNIT OVER THE FABRIC IN THE FOLLOWING WAY: 6 SATIN POINTS, 12 SATIN STITCHES, 6 SATIN STITCHES (24) 

2) 6SC, 12SC, 6 SC (24) 

3) 3SC, SATIN POINT, TURN 

4) CHAIN, 6SC, SATIN POINT, TWIST 

5) CHAIN, 8SC, SATIN POINT, TURN 

6) CHAIN, 10SC, SATIN POINT, TWIST 

7) (INC, 4SC) X 2, INC, SC, 2SC, INC, 3SC, INC, 3SC, 7SC. WE PLACE A MARKER. 

8) 8SC, 11SC, 8SC (27) 

9) INC, 6SC, INC, 3SC, INC, 3SC, INC, 3SC, INC, 7SC (32) 

10 – 12) 10SC, 13SC, 9SC (32) 

13) 9SC, INC, 3SC, INC, 4SC, INC, 3SC, INC, 9SC (36) 

14 – 16) 12SC, 14SC, 10SC (36) 

17) 13SC, 12SC, 11SC (36) 

18) 15SC, 8SC, 13SC (36) 

19) (INC, 5SC) X 6 (42) 

20) (42) 

21) (4SC, INC) X 8, 2SC (50) 

22) (50) WILL LEAVE THE THREAD LONG FOR SEWING. 

LOWER JAW: (2 PIECES) 

1) 13 CHAINS 

2) FROM THE SECOND CHAIN WE KNIT 11SC, AT THE LAST POINT 4SC, WE FOLLOW ON THE OTHER SIDE WITH 11SC AND THEN TWO CHAINS. TURN 

3) RETURNING TO THE FABRIC, WE KNIT 5 RIBS, 3 HALF RIBS, 4SC, 2 INC AT THE END, 4SC, 3 HALF RIBS, 5 RIBS KNIT CRAB THROUGHOUT THE ROUND. 

EARS: (2 PIECES) 

1) 6 CHAINS, TURN 

2) 5SC, CHAIN, TWIST (5) 

3) INC, 3SC, INC, CHAIN, turn (7) 

4) INC, 5SC, INC, CHAIN, TURN (9) 

5) INC, 7SC, INC, CHAIN, TURN (11) 

6) INC, 9SC, INC, CHAIN, turn (13) 

7 – 21) 13SC, CHAIN, TURN (13) 

22) DEC, 10SC, INC, CHAIN, TURN (13) 

23) INC, 10SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (13) 

24) DEC, 10SC, INC, CHAIN, TURN (13) 

25) 11SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (12) 

26) DEC, 8SC, DEC, CHAIN, TURN (10) 

27) 3 POINTS TOGETHER, 5SC, DEC, SPIN (7) 

28) CHAIN, 3SC, 3 POINTS TOGETHER, SPIN (4) 

29) DECREASES 

KNIT CRAB AROUND TO GIVE IT A PROLIJA FINISH. 

LINE: 

1) MAGIC RING WITH 6SC. 

2 – 6) (6) 

7) INC, 5SC (7) 

8 – 10) (7) 

11) INC, 6SC (8) 

12 – 14) (8) 

15) INC, 7SC (9) 

16 – 18) (9) 

19) INC, 8SC (10) 

20) (10) 

21) INC, 9SC (11) 

22) (11) 

23) INC, 10SC (12) 

24 – 31) (12) 

32) turn, 7SC, SATIN POINT. LEAVE THE LONG THREAD FOR SEWING. 

MOUNTING: 

WE PLACE EACH PIECE IN ITS PLACE, FIXING IT IN ADVANCE WITH PINS AND THEN WE SEW THEM. 

The post Dachshund Sausage Dog Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

The best quality amigurumi dog patterns are available for free on this site. I shared the amigurumi cute puppy pattern in this article.

Important 

The toy is knitted in a spiral. It is not necessary to connect the rows to each other. 

During knitting, you need to grab both sides of the loop, unless there is a separate instruction to do it differently. 

Use a contrasting thread as a marker. 

In the process of knitting, it is necessary to monitor the symmetry of the part. That is, if the marker begins to deviate to the right, an additional column must be knitted at the end of the row. This is the so-called offset loop – it is not shown in the description. 

When crocheting toys, use a crochet hook that is thinner than recommended for the thread you choose. 

The thicker the threads, the larger the toy. 

Abbrevations:

CH – chain

SC – single crochet 

DC – double crochet 

HDC – half double crochet 

INC – Increase (knit 2 sc from 1sc) 

DEC – Decrease (from 2 sc we knit 1 sc) 

sl-st – slip stitch

(… ..) *… p – this means that the operations indicated in brackets repeat the number of times indicated after *. 

+ 1 offset loop (knit another loop, the row will start from here) 

Level: Intermediate 

Height: 16 cm 

Materials and tools: 

✓ Yarn “Angora Magig Delicate” in the main color (any color) and a little white for the face, tips of the legs and tail. (500m / 100g) 

Any similar yarn can be used (450-550m / 100g) 

✓ Hook 1.5 or any other suitable for your yarn. 

✓ 2 finished eyes (8 mm) 

✓ Finished spout, if you will not sculpt from clay 

✓ Polymer clay of white, black and pink colors 

✓ Filler: holofiber. 

✓ Copper wire of the frame. 

✓ Toning Pastel art 

✓ The needle is long for sewing parts and making ties. 

✓ Strong thread for muzzle and paws tightening. 

✓ Transparent glue “Crystal”. 

✓ Cloth-based adhesive plaster. 

Note: The description is copyrighted and intended for personal use only. Full or partial copying, as well as distribution and sale of the description on the Internet are FORBIDDEN! 

When publishing photos related to this master class, indicate the author. Thank you for your understanding and decency. 

PLEASANT KNITTING! 

PATTERN

Head 

Symmetry can be ignored. 

We knit with the main yarn. 

1st row: 6 into magic ring 

2nd row: 6 inc = 12 

3rd row: (1 sc, inc) * 6 times = 18 

4th row: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) * 5 times, 1 sc = 24 

5 row: (3 sc, inc) * 6 times = 30 

6 row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) * 5 times, 2sc = 36 

7 row: (5 sc, inc) * 6 times = 42 

8 row: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) * 5 times, 3 sc = 48 

9th row: (7 sc, inc) * 6 times = 54 

10 row: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) * 5 times, 4 sc = 60 

11 row: (9 sc, inc) * 6 times = 66 

12th row: 5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) * 5 times, 5 sc = 72 

13 row: (11 sc, inc) * 6 times = 78 

14th row: 6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) * 5 times, 6 sc = 84 

15 row: (13 sc, inc) * 6 times = 90 

16 row: 90 sc 

17th row: 7 sc, inc, (14 sc, inc) * 5 times, 7 sc = 96 

18 row: 96 sc 

19 row: (15 sc, inc) * 6 times = 102 

20-26 rows: (7 rows) 102 sc 

27 row: (15 sc, dec) * 6 times = 96 

28 row: 96 sc 

29 row: 7 sc, dec, (14 sc, dec) * 5 times, 7 sc = 90 

30 row: 90 sc 

31 row: (13 sc, dec) * 6 times = 84 

32 row: 84 sc 

33 row: 6 sc, dec, (12 sc, dec) * 5 times, 6 sc = 78 

34 row: (11 sc, dec) * 6 times = 72 

35 row: 5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) * 5 times, 5 sc = 66 

36 row: (9 sc, dec) * 6 times = 60 

37 row: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) * 5 times, 4 sc = 54 

38 row: (7 sc, dec) * 6 times = 48 

Row 39: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) * 5 times, 3 sc = 42 

Stuff your head tightly enough. 

40 row: (5 sc, dec) * 6 times = 36 

41 row: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) * 5 times, 2 sc = 30 

42 -49 rows: (8 rows) 30 sc 

Cut the thread and fasten. 

Muzzle 

The marker runs from the side 

If necessary, knit offset loops. 

1st row: 8 CH, in the second loop from the hook: inc, 5 sc, 3 sc in one loop, knit on the other side: 5 sc, inc = 17 

2nd row: 2 inc, 5 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, inc = 23 

Knit offset loop 

3rd row: 2 inc, 6 sc, 5 inc, 7 sc, 3 inc = 33 

4th row: (inc, 4 sc) * 2 p, inc, (2 sc, inc) * 2 p, 10 sc, (inc, 2 sc) * 2 p = 40 

5 row: inc, 11 sc, (inc, 3 sc) * 2 p, inc, 11 sc, (inc, 3 sc) * 2 p = 46 

6-8 rows: 46 sc 

9th row: 8 sc, 2 dec, 34 sc = 44 

10 row: 7 sc, 2 dec, 33 sc = 42 

11 row: 5 sc, 3 sts together, 34 sc = 40 

We leave the thread for sewing. 

Ears (4 identical parts) 

2 pieces in white, 2 pieces in the main color 

1st row: 3 CH, second from hook: 1 sc, inc 

We knit in rotary rows. At the end of each row we knit an air loop. 

2nd row: 3 sc 

3rd row: inc, 1 sc, inc = 5 

4th row: 5 sc 

5th row: inc, 3 sc, inc = 7 

6 row: 7 sc 

7 row: inc, 5 sc, inc = 9 

8 row: 9 sc 

9th row: inc, 7 sc, inc = 11 

10 row: 11 sc 

11th row: inc, 9 sc, inc = 13 

12 row: 13 sc 

13th row: inc, 11 sc, inc = 15 

Row 14: 15 sc 

15th row: inc, 13 sc, inc = 17 

16 row: 17 sc 

17 row: 1 sc, dec, 14 sc = 16 

18 row: 16 sc 

19 row: inc, 14 sc, inc = 18 

20 row: 18 sc 

21 row: inc, 16 sc, inc = 20 

22 row: 20 sc 

23 row: 1 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 1 sc = 18 

We tie two parts (main and white) together with a main thread. 

Leave the thread for sewing. 

  Lip 

We knit the lip with white yarn 

1st row: 6 into magic ring 

2nd row: 6 inc = 12 

3rd row: (1 sc, inc) * 6 times = 18 

4th row: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) * 5 times, 2 sc = 24 

5 row: (3 sc, inc) * 6 times = 30 

6 row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) * 5 times, 2 sc = 36 

Fold in half and knit on both sides together 17 sc. 

Leave the thread for sewing. 

Front feet (2 parts) 

Marker runs on the side If desired, you can tie the ends of the feet with white yarn 

We knit with white yarn. 

1st row: 6 into magic ring 

2nd row: 6 inc = 12 

3rd row: (1 sc, inc) * 6 p = 18 

4th row: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) * 5 p, 1 sc = 24 

5 row: (3 sc, inc) * 6 p = 30 

6-11 rows: 30 sc 

12 row: (4 sc, dec) * 5 p = 25 

Row 13: 25 sc 

Change the yarn to the main color Follow the marker. If necessary, align the marker with the offset loop. 

Row 14: 25 sc 

15 row: 12 ss, 13 DC = 25 

16 row: 12 ss, 13 HDC = 25 

17th row: dec, 8 sc, dec, 13 sc = 23 

18 row: 23 sc 

19 row: (2 sc, dec) * 5 p, 3 sc = 18 

Rows 20 – 28: (9 rows) 18 sc 

Row 29: 9 sc, 9inc HDC = 27 

30 row: 27 sc 

31 row: 9 sc, 9 dec = 18 

32 row: dec, 5 sc, dec, 9 sc = 16 

Rows 33 – 43: (11 rows) 16 sc 

Cut the thread. Count 9 stitches from the marker to the left. 

Add an additional marker. Place of tying the paws into the body. 

Cut off 2 pieces of wire equal to the length of the foot multiplied by 2 Make a loop at the end of the wire. Wrap the junction with an adhesive plaster on a fabric base. 

Insert the frame into the feet and fill evenly. 

Hind feet (2 parts) 

Marker runs sideways If necessary, align marker with offset loop. 

We knit with white yarn. 

1st row: 6 into magic ring 

2nd row: 6 inc = 12 

3rd row: (1 sc, inc) * 6 p = 18 

4th row: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) * 5 p, 1 sc = 24 

5 row: (3 sc, inc) * 6 p = 30 

6-11 rows: 30 sc 

12 row: (4 sc, dec) * 5 p = 25 

Row 13: 25 sc 

Change the yarn to the main color 

Row 14: 25 sc 

15 row: 12 ss, 13 DC = 25 

16 row: 12 ss, 13 DC = 25 

17th row: dec, 8 sc, dec, 13 sc = 23 

18 row: 23 sc 

19 row: (2 sc, dec) * 5 p, 3 sc = 18 

20 – 27 rows: 18 sc 

28 row: 9 sc, 9 inc HDC = 27 

Row 29: 27 sc 

30 row: 9 sc. 9 dec = 18 

31 row: dec, 5 sc, dec, 9 sc = 16 

32 row: 16 sc 

33rd row: 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 11 sc = 18 

34 row: (1 sc, inc) * 4 p, 10 sc = 22 

35 row: 22 sc 

36 row: (inc, 2 sc) * 3 p, inc, 12 sc = 26 

37 row: (2 sc, inc) * 4 p, 14 sc = 30 

38 – 41 rows: 30 sc 

Cut the thread. For the left foot, count 10 stitches from the marker to the left. Add an additional marker. 

For the right foot, count 10 stitches to the right. Add an additional marker. 

This is the place where the foot is tied into the body. 

Cut 2 pieces of wire equal to the length of the foot multiplied by 2 Make a loop at the end of the wire. Wrap the junction with an adhesive plaster on a fabric base. 

Insert the frame into the feet and fill evenly. 

Body 

We start knitting from the neck. 

The marker runs down the center of the front. Strictly observe symmetry. 

If necessary, knit offset loops. 

We knit with the main color 

We knit 28 CH and connect in a ring 

Rows 1-13: 28 sc in a circle 

14 row: (13 sc, inc) * 2 p = 30 

15 row: 30 sc 

16 row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) * 5 p, 2 sc = 36 

17 row: 36 sc 

18 row: (2 sc, inc) * 3 p, 18 sc, (inc, 2 sc) * 3 p = 42 

19 row: 42 sc 

20 row: (3 sc, inc) * 3 p, 18 sc, (inc, 3 sc) * 3 p = 48 

21 row: 48 sc 

22 row: 2 sc, (3 sc, inc) * 2 p, 28 sc, (inc, 3 sc) * 2 sc, 2 sc – = 54 

23 row: 54 sc 

24 row: 4 sc, 8 sc with 8 loops of the left foreleg, 30 sc, 8 sc with 8 loops of the right foreleg, 4 sc = 54 

25 row: 4 sc, 8 sc along the remaining loops of the left foot, 30 sc, 8 sc along the remaining loops of the right foot, 4 sc = 54 

26 row: (inc, 1 sc) * 2 p, inc, 44 sc, inc, (1 sc, inc) * 2 p = 60 

27 row: (9 sc, inc) * 6 p = 66 

28 row: 66 sc 

Row 29: 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 56 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc = 70 

Measure a 35 cm piece of wire for the main frame. 

Connect the frame of the front legs with the main frame. Wrap the junction with an adhesive plaster on a fabric base. 

Insert the insulated end of the frame into the neck. 

We stuff the body tightly during the knitting process. 

30 row: 4 sc, inc, 60 sc, inc, 4 sc = 72 

Rows 31-40: (10 rows) 72 sc 

41 row: 2 sc, dec, 15 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 22 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 15 sc, dec, 2 sc = 66 

42 row: 18 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 18 sc = 62 

43 row: 62 sc 

44 row: 5 sc, dec, 48 sc, dec, 5 sc = 60 

45 – 46 rows: 60 sc 

47 row: (9 sc, inc) * 6 p = 66 

48 – 49 rows: 66 sc 

Row 50: 10 sc, 9 sc with 9 sts of the left hind leg, 28 sc, 9 sc with 9 sts of the hind right leg, 10 sc = 66 

Row 51: 10 sc, 21 sc along the remaining loops of the left paw, 28 sc, 21 sc along the remaining loops of the right paw, 10 sc = 90 

Connect the frame of the hind legs to the main frame. Wrap the junction with an adhesive plaster on a fabric base. 

52 row: 30 sc, dec, 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) * 2 p, 4 sc, (inc, 3 sc) * 2 p, inc, 2 sc, dec, 30 sc = 94 

53 row: (2 sc, dec) * 2 p, 1 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 32 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 1 sc, (dec, 2 sc) * 2 p = 86 

54 row: 8 sc, dec, 15 sc, dec, 32 sc, dec, 15 sc, dec, 8 sc = 82 

55 row: (1 sc, dec) * 2 p, 2 sc, dec, 13 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) * 2 p, 8 sc, (dec, 4 sc) * 2 p, dec, 13 sc , dec, 2 sc, (dec, 1 sc) * 2 p = 70 

56 row: 6 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 26 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 6 sc = 66 

Row 57: 5 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 26 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 5 sc = 62 

Row 58: 5 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 24 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 5 sc = 58 

Row 59: 4 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 24 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 4 sc = 54 

60 row: 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 22 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 4 sc = 50 

Row 61: 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 4 sc = 46 

Row 62: 3 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 3 sc = 42 

Row 63: 3 sc, dec, 5 sc.dec, 18 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 3 sc = 38 

64 row: 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc = 34 

65 row: 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc = 30 

Row 66: 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc = 26 

67 row: 26 sc 

Row 68: 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc = 22 

69 – 70 rows: 22 sc 

71 row: 5 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 5 sc = 20 

72 row: 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 4 sc = 18 

73 – 82 Rows: (10 Rows) 18 sc 

Row 83: 3 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 3 sc = 16 

84 row: 16 sc 

Change the yarn to white 

85 – 87 rows: 16 sc 

Row 88: 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc = 14 

Cut off the excess from the frame. 

Bend the end of the wire into a small loop and wrap it with adhesive tape. 

We do not stuff the tail tightly. 

89 – 90 rows: 14 sc 

91 row: 2 sc.dec, 6 sc, dec, 2 sc = 12 

92 row: (1 sc, dec) * 4 p = 8 

Pull the thread, cut and hide. 

Registration 

The design of the face is one of the most important stages. It’s no secret that many toys are knitted according to the same principle. Their difference is in the design of the muzzle or face. 

First, we sew the muzzle. 

If you are using a secure nose, then you need to secure it before you sew the muzzle to the head. 

We fix the muzzle with needles (we fix the upper edge on the 25th row from the beginning of knitting). 

Decreases – the bottom of the muzzle. 

Before sewing, the muzzle should be stuffed. 

Then we make markings for the muzzle tightenings. 

Visually draw a line in the center of the face. 

2 and 3 points – counting up from the beginning of the muzzle of the 3rd row, then 5 sc to the right and left of the center line. 

1 and 4 points – counting up from the beginning of the muzzle of 3 rows, then 8 sc to the right and left of the center line. 

We mark approximately points 5 and 6. 

They should be located at the lower edge of the muzzle, on the sides. 

For tightening, we need a long needle and strong thread. 

We introduce the needle to point 1 and bring it to point 5. Then we need to insert the needle next to it and output it at point 1. 

We retreat from point 1 two loops and bring the needle to point 2 and bring it to point 5. 

We return to the starting point 1. Tie the two ends of the thread into a knot so that we get indentations for the eyes and a raised cheek. 

Repeat if necessary. 

We hide the ends of the threads in the head. 

Similarly, we make a tightening on the other side. 

4 – 6, 6 – 4, 4 – 3, 3 – 6, 6 – 4 

We tighten the bridge of the nose: We introduce the needle to point 2 and bring it to point 3. Retreat several loops, insert the needle nearby and bring it to point 2. Tie the two ends of the thread into a knot, forming the bridge of the nose. 

We tint the area under the eyes with dry pastel to give expressiveness to the muzzle. 

Next are the ears. 

Sew on the way you like. 

The main thing is that the ears are sewn symmetrically. 

Embossed lug side – outer edge 

Before you sew on the lip, you need to sew or glue the tongue. 

The tongue can be molded from pink clay or cut out of felt. 

I sculpted from clay. Before baking, I made a hole at the base of the tongue so that you can sew on. 

Sew on the lip. 

If desired, you can blind the whites of the eyes from white clay. 

Roll up small balls, flatten slightly and make a depression with a half bead. 

Bake the whites of the eyes according to the instructions on the package. 

Glue the eyes. 

We make the legs tighten. 

We count 10 rows up from the beginning of knitting. We will do the banners from right to left. Distance between them – 5 sc (on each foot, 2 constrictions) 

The doggie is almost ready. It remains to secure the head. 

The puppy’s head will be mobile. 

To secure the head, you must use a strong thread and a long needle. 

We insert the needle next to the ear and take it out through the hole in the head (we try not to touch the knitted fabric). 

Now you need to insert the needle (through) at the base of the neck and return to the starting point (through the hole in the head, without touching the knitted fabric). 

We draw the needle to the same point at the ear. 

We do the same on the other side. 

We insert the neck into the hole in the head. 

We tie the ends of the threads into a knot, pulling tightly. 

We hide the ends of the threads in the head. 

Let him give you joy and good mood! 

The post Cute Puppy Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

Today I bring you a pattern of Odie, Garfield’s great adventure companion, it is intermediate / advanced level, very well explained step by step, so that you have no problem doing it. 

The finished amigurumi is about 30 cm high. 

I hope you like it a lot, you enjoy it and if you have any problems, do not hesitate to tell me so that he can help you as much as he can. 

Odie Pattern: 

Abbrevations

CH = chain loop

dc = double crochet

dc-İNC = double crochet addition

DEC = Decrease

HDC = Half Crochet

HDC-İNC = half-column addition

İNC = Increase

P = row

SC = Single crochet

sl-st = connecting loop

st = column

Hoof (x4): 

In yellow color: 

Round nº 1: Magic ring of 6 sc. (6) 

Round no. 2: 1 sc increase. in each sc. (12) 

Row 3: 1 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Round no. 4: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (18) 

Row 5: 2 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (24) 

Round no. 6: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (24) 

Row 7: 3 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (30) 

Row 8: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (30) 

Row 9: 4 sc and 1 increase, repeat until round is finished. (36) 

Row 10-14: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (36) 

Row 15: 4 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (30) 

Round # 16: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (30) 

Row 17: 3 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (24) 

Round no. 18: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (24) 

Row 19: 2 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (18) 

Fill out. 

Row 20: 1 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (12) 

Round no. 21: 1 decrease in each sc., 

until the fabric is closed. (6) 

Legs (x4): 

In yellow color: 

Round nº 1: Magic ring of 6 sc. (6) 

Round no. 2: 1 sc increase. in each sc. (12) 

Row 3: 1 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Row 3: 2 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (24) 

Row 4-29: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (24) 

Do not close. 

Body: 

In yellow color: 

Round nº 1: Magic ring of 6 sc. (6) 

Round no. 2: 1 sc increase. in each sc. (12) 

Row 3: 1 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Row 4: 2 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the round is finished. (24) 

Row 5: 3 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (30) 

Row 6: 4 sc and 1 increase, repeat until round is finished. (36) 

Row 7: 5 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (42) 

Row 8: 6 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (48) 

Row 9: 7 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (54) 

Row 10: 8 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (60) 

Row 11: 9 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (66) 

Row 12: 10 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (72) 

Row 13-32: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (72) 

Row 33: 10 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (66) 

Row 34: 9 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (60) 

Row 35: 8 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the round is finished. (54) 

Row 36: 7 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (48) 

Row 37: 6 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (42) 

Row 38: 5 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (36) 

Row 39: 5 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the round is finished. (42) 

Row 40: 6 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (48) 

Row 41: 7 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the round is finished. (54) 

Row 42: 8 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (60) 

Round # 43-47: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (60) 

Row 48: 8 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (54) 

Row 49: 7 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished.(48) 

Row 50: 6 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (42) 

Row 51: 5 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (36) 

Row 52: 4 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (30) 

Row 53: 3 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the round is finished. (24) 

Fill out. 

Row 54: 2 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (18) 

Row 55: 1 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (12) 

Row 56: 1 decrease in each sc., Until the fabric is closed. (6) 

Stains (x2): 

In black color: 

Round nº 1: Magic ring of 6 sc. (6) 

Round no. 2: 1 sc increase. in each sc. (12) 

Row 3: 1 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Row 4: 2 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the round is finished. (24) 

Line: 

In black color: 

Round nº 1: Magic ring of 6 sc. (6) 

Round # 2-11: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (6) 

Row 12: 1 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (9) 

Row 13-17: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (9) 

Chin: 

In yellow color: 

Row 1: 14 sc. (14) 

Round # 2: 12 sc., 1 increase and 12 sc. (26) 

Round # 3-52: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (26) 

Line: 

In black color: 

Round nº 1: Magic ring of 6 sc. (6) 

Round no. 2: 1 sc increase. in each sc. (12) 

Row 3: 1 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Row 4: 2 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the round is finished. (24) 

Row 5: 3 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (30) 

Row 6-7: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (30) 

Row 8: 4 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the round is finished. (36) 

Round # 9-10: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (36) 

Row 11: 5 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (42) 

Round # 12-36: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (42) 

Truffle: 

In black color: 

Round nº 1: Magic ring of 6 sc. (6) 

Round no. 2: 1 sc increase. in each sc. (12) 

Row 3: 1 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Row 4-7: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (18) 

Head: 

In yellow color: 

Round nº 1: Magic ring of 6 sc. (6) 

Round no. 2: 1 sc increase. in each sc. (12) 

Row 3: 1 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Row 4: 2 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the round is finished. (24) 

Row 5: 3 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (30) 

Row 6: 4 sc and 1 increase, repeat until round is finished. (36) 

Row 7: 5 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (42) 

Row 8: 6 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (48) 

Row 9-11: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (48) 

Row 12: 7 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (54) 

Row 13-15: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (54) 

Row 16: 8 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (60) 

Row 17-21: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (60) 

Row 22: 8 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the round is finished. (54) 

Round # 23-25: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (54) 

Row 26: 7 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (48) 

Row 27: 6 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (42) 

Row 28: 5 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the round is finished. (36) 

Row 29: 4 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (30) 

Row 30: 3 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (24) 

Fill out. 

Row 31: 2 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Row 32: 1 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the round is finished. (12) 

Row 33: 1 decrease in each sc., Until the fabric is closed. (6) 

Eye (x2): 

In white: 

Round nº 1: Magic ring of 6 sc. (6) 

Round no. 2: 1 sc increase. in each sc. (12) 

Row 3: 1 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Row 4: 2 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the round is finished. (24) 

Row 5-9: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (24) 

Row 10: 3 sc and 1 increase, repeat until round is finished. (30) 

Row 11-13: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (30) 

Row 14: 3 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (24) 

Row 15-19: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (24) 

Row 20: 2 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Fill out. 

Row 21: 1 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (12) 

Row 22: 1 decrease in each sc., Until the fabric is closed. (6) 

Pupil (x2): 

In black color: 

Round nº 1: Magic ring of 6 sc. (6) 

Inside the mouth: 

In black color: 

Row # 1: 10 sc. (10) 

Row # 2: 1 sc. in each sc. (8) 

Row # 3-36: 1 sc. in each sc. (8) 

Tongue: 

In yellow color: 

Round nº 1: Magic ring of 6 sc. (6) 

Round no. 2: 1 sc increase. in each sc. (12) 

Row 3: 1 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Row 4: 2 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the round is finished. (24) 

Row 5: 3 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (30) 

Row 6: 4 sc and 1 increase, repeat until round is finished. (36) 

Row 7: 5 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (42) 

Row 8: 6 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (48) 

Row 9: 7 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (54) 

Row 10-19: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (54) 

Row 20: 7 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the round is finished. (48) 

Round no. 21-25: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (48) 

Row 26: 6 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (42) 

Row 27-31: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (42) 

Row 32: 5 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (36) 

Row 33: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (36) 

Row 34: 4 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (30) 

Row 35: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (30) 

Row 36: 3 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (24) 

Row 37-46: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (24) 

Row 47: 2 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (18) 

Row 48-57: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (18) 

Do not close. 

Ear (x2): 

In brown color: 

Round nº 1: Magic ring of 6 sc. (6) 

Round no. 2: 1 sc increase. in each sc. (12) 

Row 3: 1 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Row 4: 2 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the round is finished. (24) 

Row 5: 3 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (30) 

Row 6: 4 sc and 1 increase, repeat until round is finished. (36) 

Row 7-26: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (36) 

Row 27: 4 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until round is finished. (30) 

Row 28-32: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (30) 

Row 33: 3 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (24) 

Row 34-38: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (24) 

Row 39: 2 sc and 1 decrease, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Round # 40-59: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (18) 

Do not close. 

Cheek (x2): 

In yellow color: 

Round nº 1: Magic ring of 6 sc. (6) 

Round no. 2: 1 sc increase. in each sc. (12) 

Row 3: 1 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the end of the row. (18) 

Row 4: 2 sc and 1 increase, repeat until the round is finished. (24) 

Row 5-7: 1 sc in each sc. until the end of the lap. (18) 

Do not close. 

Finish: 

Stains: Black felt. 

Well guys I hope you cheer up and have fun knitting this cute little puppy !! 

The post Dog Odie Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

We are the only address for amigurumi free patterns. We share the most popular patterns for you. amigurumi dog pluto pattern is just one of them.

Abbreviations:

R — row

ch — chain

sc — single crochet

inc — increase

dec — decrease

BLO — back loop only

[…] – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row

(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

MATERIALS USED:

Colour A: Cygnet Yarns Chenille Chunky, Honeydew

Colour B: James C Brett Flutterby Chunky, Pink

Colour C: James C Brett Flutterby Chunky, Black

Colour D: James C Brett Flutterby Chunky, White

Colour E: Rico Ricorumi DK, Black

Crochet Hook: 4mm for chenille yarm

2.5mm for DK yarn

Toy stuffing

Stitch marker

PATTERN

HEAD:

1. Using colour A, work 6 sc in magic ring (6)

2. Inc in each st (12)

3. *1 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (18)

4. Sc in each st

5. *2 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (24)

6-7. Sc in each st

8. *3 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (30)

9-12. Sc in each st

13. *3 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 6 times (24)

14. *2 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 6 times (18)

15. *1 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 6 times (12)

16. Dec (6) Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the last stitches together.

EYES (THE WHITE PART) :

1. Using colour D, work 6 sc in magic ring (6)

2. Inc in each st (12)

3. *1 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (18)

4. *2 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (24)

5. *3 SC, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (30)

6. *4 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (36)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the white eye part to the head.

PUPILS (MAKE 2):

1. Using colour E (and 2.5 hook), chain 5, sc 4 starting from the second st from the hook

2. Sc across the 4 sts on the other side of the chain

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the pupils to the white part of the eye.

EARS (MAKE 2):

1. Using colour C, work 6 sc in magic ring (6)

2. Inc in each st (12)

3-10. Sc in each st

11.*1 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 4 times (8)

12-14. Sc in each st

15-16. Change to colour A, sc in each st

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the ears to the head.

There’s no need to stuff the ears. Attach ears to round 11 of the head.

BODY:

1. Using colour A, work 6 sc in magic ring (6)

2. Inc in each st (12)

3. *1 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (18)

4. *2 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (24)

5. *3 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (30)

6. *4 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (36)

7-12. Sc in each st

13. *4 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 6 times (30)

14. Sc in each st

15. *3 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 6 times (24)

16-17. Sc in each st

18. *2 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 6 times (18)

19. Sc in each st

20. *1 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 6 times (12)

21-22. Sc in each st

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the body to the head after stuffing the body firmly.

Attach the body to the bottom of the head.

ARMS (MAKE 2):

1. Using colour A, work 6 sc in magic ring (6)

2. Inc in each st (12)

3. *1 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (18)

4. *2 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (24)

5. *3 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (30)

6-7. Sc in each st

8. *2 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 6 times (18)

9. *1 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 6 times (12)

10. *4 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 2 times (10)

11-18. Sc in each st

Stuff the larger part of the arms only.

Attach the arms to row 20 of the body, there will be 2 sts between the arms on the back.

LEAD:

1. Chain 21

2. Start in the second chain from the hook and sc 20.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Attach the lead around Pluto’s head with a few sts from the end of the chain to the start of the chain.

TAIL:

1. Using colour E, work 4 sc in magic ring (4)

2-23. Sc in each st

To make the tail a bit more sturdy I added a few tails of yarn up the centre of the tail.

Attach the tail to round 8 of the body at middle of the back.

LEGS (MAKE 2):

1. Using colour A, work 6 sc in magic ring (6)

2. Inc in each st (12)

3. *1 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (18)

4. *2 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 5 times, ch 1 and turn your work.

This will leave 3 unworked stitches

5. Sc across the 20 stitches you just worked, ch 1, turn

6. *3 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 5 times.

Now you’ll work across the 3 sts you didn’t work in round 4.

First work one sc down the side of your previous two rounds, then sc across the 3 unworked sts, sc 1 st up the side.

You’ll now be working across all sts again. (30)

7. Sc in the back loop only.

8. Sc in each st

9. *3 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 6 times (24)

10. *2 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 6 times (18)

11.*1 sc, 1 dec** repeat * to ** 6 times (12)

12-22. Sc in each st

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to attach the legs to the body.

Stuff the larger part of the legs only.

The legs are attached flat across rounds 6-9, slightly diagonally (swipe to image 9 for guidance).

There will be 20 sts between the bottom of the two legs on the back.

To make the bend in the leg, attach the top of row 4 of the leg to row 11.

Make a few more stiches across the top of row 1-3 to secure to the body.

PAW PADS (MAKE 6):

Using colour E, work 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to attach the pads to the paws.

Attach 1 pad to the middle of round 1 of the leg, attach the other 2 in row 4 with 1 st in between (swipe to image 9 for guidance).

MUZZLE:

1. Using colour A, chain 9, turn

2. Sc 8 starting from the second st from the hook

3. Sc across the 8 stitches on the other side of the chain (Continue working in the round)

4. *Sc 7,1 inc** repeat * to ** 2 times (10)

5. *Sc 6, 1 inc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 2 times (12)

6-8. Sc in each st

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching the muzzle to the head.

NOSE:

Using colour C, chain 5, sc 4 starting from the second st from the hook Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the nose to muzzle.

MOUTH :

1. Using colour A, work 6 sc in magic ring (6)

2. Inc in each st (12)

3. *1 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (18)

4-5. Sc in each st

Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the mouth to the head

TONGUE :

1. Using colour B, work 6 sc in magic ring (6), chain 1 Now you’ll turn your work instead of joining the circle

2. Inc in each st (12), chain 1, turn

3. Sc in each st, chain 1, turn

4. *1 sc, 1 inc** repeat * to ** 6 times (18)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the tongue to the mouth.ing Attach the tongue to the top of the mouth, no stuffing is necessary for the mouth.

ASSEMBLY:

I recommend pinning all the parts in place before starting to sew the parts together.

See below where each part will sit.

Attach the eye section across row 8-15 of the head.

Attach the muzzle across rounds 5-8, overlap the muzzle over the bottom of the eye section by one row.

Stuff as you go along when sewing.

Attach the mouth just below the muzzle between rounds 2-4 of the head.

Attach the nose to the muzzle above the first row.

Attach the pupils to the white eye section just above the muzzle with a couple of stitches in between.

Once sewn in place, using a bit of colour E, make a long stitch from the bottom of the eye up the side to the top and down the other side to make the pupil look more oval shaped.

EDGING OF THE EYE:

1. Using colour A, SC 10 sts up the outside of the white section.

2. Now diagonally make 3 sts down in to the centre of row 4 of the white part (swipe to image 9 for guidance).

3. Diagonally crochet up the other side across 3 rows.

4. Continue down the outside of the white part a further 10 sts.

Cut off a tail of colour A and fill in the white part at the top of the eye section between the new sts you’ve just made.

Using colour A, make a st across row 3 of the white part of the eye, up to the middle point of the new yellow sts.

The post Dog Baby Pluto Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.