Amigurumi doll mathilda baby free crochet pattern, A wonderful amigurumi knit toy pattern is waiting for you. All models related to Amigurumi can be found on our website.

Abbreviations

sc = single crochet
inc = the increased
dec = decrease
Blo = knitting the back thread of the loop

sl-st = slip stitch
DC= Double crochet

HDC= Half double crochet

MATHİLDA BABY PATTERN

FOOT AND LEGS

(Start with shoe color)

1: 7 chain

2: 1inc, 4sc, 3sc to the same loop, 5sc (14 sc)

3: 2inc, 4sc, 3inc, 5sc (19sc)

4: Blo 19sc

5: 19sc an extra loop, so the starting point comes back

6: 5sc 6dec 2sc (13sc)

7: 5sc 3dec 2sc (10sc)

change color

8: Blo 10sc

9-27: 19 lines (10sc)

Knit one more of the same (if you want to make a boat, you can do 8 more and 4 more without blo and make 15 rows of skin color, and then you can make single crochet or HDC to the places where you make blo)

BODY

Pull 5 chains from one leg to the other leg

28: 10sc from one leg to a 5sc chain 10sc from another leg to a 5sc chain Total (30sc) to the middle of the right leg.

29 -33: 5 rows (30sc)

34: 28sc color change on both sides

35:28 sc

36: Blo 28sc

37: One drop on each side (26 sc)

38-45: 8 rows (26 sc)

46: One decrease on each side (24sc)

47 (24sc)

48: (2sc 1dec) * 6 = (18 sc)

49: 18 sc

50: 9dec (9 sc)

Switch from color 51: 9sc

I suggest you put a wire around the baby’s neck.

HEAD

52-53: 9 sc

54: 9inc (18 sc)

55: (1sc 1in) * 9 = 27 sc

56: (2sc 1inc) * 9 = 36 sc

57: (3sc1inc) * 9 = 45 sc

58: (8sc1inc) * 5 = 50 sc

59 -69: 11 rows of 50 scs (we put 9 mm eyes between 64 and 65th row with 8 stitches.)

70: (8sc 1dec) * 5 = 45sc

71 (4sc 1dec) * 9 = 36 sc

72 (4sc 1dec) * 6 = 30 sc

73: (3sc 1dec) * 6 = 24sc

74: (2sc 1dec) * 6 = 18sc

75: (1sc 1dec) * 6 = 12sc

76: 6dec (6sc)
close the loop

ARM

1: Magic ring into 6sc

2: (1sc, 1inc) * 3 = 9sc

3-14: 12 rows 9sc

15: 9 HDC with intermediate color

16: 9sc with dress color

17-22: 6 rows 9sc

(Connect the two ends and fill the fibers with half of the close arms.)

HAIR

21 chain check
(Important note we always weave blo)

Make 16 HDC, 4 sc on it

1 chain draw Skip to the top row this time sc on the sc HDCs HDCs, such as always do not forget to knit blo in this way 20 rows eg.
10 sl-st do now we will learn the part of the laughter 6 HDC 4 sc always turning, eg 5 rows in this way. then 11 chains pull 6 HDC 4 sc likewise 5 rows.
Then the beginning of the hair with the beginning of the middle of the middle and perpendicular to the head looking at images.
Since everyone’s hand is always different, I recommend you to knit by measuring it on the head.

SKIRT

The part where we knit in the trunk, (36th row)
We start with the color rope of the dress.

(Important note: we do not weave the spiral 1 st-sl is done when the chain is done by pulling 1 chain to the top row.)

1: 1 eg 1 increase = 42 sc

2: 2 eg 1 increase = 56 sc (for the skirt of a mustard-colored baby, without increasing in this order, single crochet eg)

3: Switch to skirt color 1 in DC

4: 1 single crochet per loop

5: 1 DC 1 We take the lower DC from behind

6: 1 row single crochet

7: The same order as in the 5th row (here we take DC which is important from behind, DC weave from DC to HDC weave from behind)

8: 1 row single crochet

9: Same as row 5

10: 1 row single crochet

11: Single row of body color crochet

The post Amigurumi Doll Mathilda Baby Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

I am sharing free amigurumi doll patterns here for you everyday. In this article, I shared the amigurumi elf doll pattern for you.

Abbrevations:

SC. – single crochet.

SL-ST – slip stitch

CH – chain

HDC – Half double crochet.

ST. – column.

Required materials and tools.

Hooks: No. 2, No. 2.5.

Yarn: GAZZAL BABY COTTON 50g | 165 m.,

red (3418) – 2 skeins.

color green (3448) – 1 skein.

white (3410) – 1 skein.

beige color (3445) – 1 skein.

Large red beads

d = 1 cm. – 9 pieces.

Acrylic paint for white fabric.

Green button d = 1.5 cm – 1 piece.

Glass vial for the manufacture of a lantern.

Jute rope.

Tapestry needle for embroidery and ordinary for sewing.

Beads 0.5 mm. Red – 2 pcs.

Wooden insoles, size 4 * 2.5 – 2 pieces, or thick cardboard for their manufacture.

Galvanized wire (d = 0.9 mm).

Holofiber filler.

Semi beads 0.5 mm in size. black – 2 pcs. (pupils).

Glue moment gel transparent and hot gun.

The canvas is small, for embroidery of leaves.

Threads of floss of green color 4 shades.

Tulle 10-12 cm wide – 1.5-2 m.

Handles (2 parts).

Knitting in a spiral, the “cross” method.

Mark the beginning of the row with a marker.

Beige thread (3445), hook number 2

1st row: into magic ring – 6sc

2nd row: 6 inc = 12sc

3-5 row: = 12sc

6 row: 3 inc, 9sc = 15sc

7 row: 15sc

8 row: 3 dec, 9sc = 12sc

9th row: 2sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 3sc = 10sc

10-11 row = 10sc

12th row: 4sc, inc, 5sc = 11sc

Row 13-15: 11sc

16 row: 8sc, inc, 2sc = 12sc

17-19 row: 12sc

20 row: 3sc, dec, 5sc, inc, 1sc = 12sc

Row 21: 12sc

22 row: 3sc inc, 5sc, dec, 1sc = 12sc

23-39 row = 12sc

The handles will be tied into the body, at this stage, they do not need to be filled.

Ears (2 parts).

Knitting in a spiral, the “cross” method.

Mark the beginning of the row with a marker.

Beige thread (3445), hook number 2.

1st row: into magic ring 5sc

2nd row: 4sc, inc = 6sc

3rd row: (2sc, inc) * 2 = 8sc

4th row: 7sc, inc = 9sc

5 row: 3sc, inc, 4sc, inc = 11sc

6 row: inc, 10sc = 12sc

7 row: (inc, 5sc) * 2 = 14sc

8 row: inc, 13sc = 15sc

Row 9: inc, 7sc, inc, 6sc = 17sc

10 row: inc, 16sc = 18sc

11 row: 2 inc from hdc, 16sc = 20 st.

12th row: 1sc, 2 inc from hdc, 17sc = 22sc

13 row: 4sc, cut off the thread, leaving the tip 65 cm.

Fold the part in half and knit 11sc for both walls. Knit the second ear in the same way.

Legs (2 parts).

Knitting in a spiral, the “cross” method.

Mark the beginning of the row with a marker.

White thread – (3410), red – (3418), hook number 2.

Start knitting with red thread.

1st row: into magic ring 7sc = 7sc

2nd row: 7 inc = 14sc

Change the thread to white, do not cut the red thread.

3-4 row: = 14sc

Change the thread to red.

5-6 row: = 14sc

Change the thread to white.

7 row: = 14sc

Next, knit the heel in rotary rows, with a white thread.

8 row: 8sc, turn.

9 row: knit from the 2nd loop, 5sc, dec = 6sc, turn.

10 row: from the 2nd loop, knit, 3sc, dec = 4sc, turn.

11 row: = 4sc, turn.

12 row: knit from the 2nd loop, 3sc = 3sc, turn.

13 row: = 3sc, turn.

14th row: 3sc on the heel, 3sc on the side, 6sc on the bow, 3sc on the side = 15sc

Change the thread to red.

Then knit again in a spiral.

15th row: = 15sc Move knitting by 1 loop.

16 row: = 15sc Change the thread to, white.

17th row: dec (on the heel), 13sc = 14sc

18 row: (2sc, dec) * 3, 2sc = 11sc Change the thread to red.

19 row: 11sc Move knitting by 1 loop.

20 row: = 11sc Change the thread to white.

21 row: = 11sc

Foot length – 3.5 cm.

Make a frame from a rigid wire,

Wire height = 33cm.

Treat the ends with a plaster.

Insert the frame into the leg, fill with filler, tight, tight and continue knitting.

22 row: inc (heel side), 10sc = 12sc

Change the thread to red.

23 row: = 12sc

24 row: 1sc, inc (heel side), 10sc = 13sc

Move knitting by 1 loop.

Change the thread to white.

25 row: = 13sc

Add filler.

26 row: 1sc, inc (heel side), 11sc = 14sc

Move knitting by 1 loop.

Change the thread to red.

27 row: 1sc, inc (heel side), 12sc = 15sc

28 row: 1sc, inc (heel side), 13sc = 16sc

Move knitting by 1 loop.

Change the thread to white.

29 row: = 16sc Move 1 loop.

Add filler.

30 row: inc (heel side), 15sc = 17sc

Change thread to red

31 row: = 17sc

Move knitting by 1 loop.

32 row: inc (heel side), 16sc = 18sc

Change the thread to white.

33-34 row: = 18sc

Move knitting by 1 loop.

Change the thread to red.

35-36 row: = 18sc

Change the thread to white.

Add filler.

37 row: 2 dec (from the heel side), 14sc = 16sc

38 row: dec (from the heel side), 14sc = 15sc

Change the thread to red.

Add filler.

Row 39: 6sc, 5 inc (knee), 4sc = 20sc

40 row: 6sc, 5 dec, 4sc = 15sc

Move knitting by 1 loop. Change the thread to white.

41 row: = 15sc Add filler.

42 row: 3sc, inc (side), 8sc, inc (side), 2sc = 17sc

Change the thread to red.

43-44 row: = 17sc

Change the thread to white.

45 row: 4sc, inc (side), 9sc, inc (side), 2sc = 19sc

46 row: = 19sc

Move knitting by 1 loop. Change the thread to red.

47 row: = 19sc

Add filler.

48 row: inc, 18sc = 20sc Change thread to white.

49 row: = 20sc

50 row: inc, 19sc = 21sc Offset knitting 1 st.

Change the thread to red.

51-52 row: = 21sc Change the thread to white.

53- 54 row: = 21sc Change the thread to red.

55-56 row: = 21sc

Fasten and cut the threads. Find the middle on the outer sides of the legs and mark them with markers, this is the junction of the legs.

Add filler.

Body:

Knitting in a spiral in the “cross” method.

Mark the beginning of the row with a marker.

Beige thread – (3445), red – (3418), white – (3410), hook number 2.

Connection of legs.

Attach a white working thread to the left leg, where the marker is, and knit

1 row: 3 ch, 1sc, knit into a loop where the marker is on the right leg.

On the right leg, knit another 20sc = 21sc

Under a chain of 3 ch, knit 3sc On the left leg, knit 21sc starting from the loop into which the white working thread was attached.

Under the chain, knit 3sc = 48sc

2nd row: = 48sc Change the thread to red.

3-4 row = 48sc Change the thread to white.

5-6 row: = 48sc Change the thread to red.

Bend the wires to the middle and upward, as shown in video # 4.

7-8 row: = 48sc Change the thread to white.

9th row: 11sc, dec, 22sc, dec, 11sc = 46sc

Decreases on the sides.

10 row: = 46sc Change the thread to red.

11th row: 10sc, dec, 22sc, dec, 10sc = 44sc

12th row: 10sc, dec, 21sc, dec, 9sc = 42sc

Change the thread to white.

13th row: 9sc, dec, 20sc, dec, 9sc = 40sc

14th row: 9sc, dec, 19sc, dec, 8sc = 38sc

Change the thread to red.

It is good to fill, so that there are no voids.

15 row: 9sc, dec, 18sc, dec, 7sc = 36sc

16 row: 36sc

Change the thread to white.

17-18 row: = 36sc

Change the thread to red.

19-20 row: = 36sc

Change the thread to white.

21-22 row: = 36sc

Change the thread to red.

23-24 row: = 36sc

Change the thread to white.

Add filler.

25-26 row: = 36sc Change the thread to red.

27-28 row: = 36sc Change the thread to white.

29-30 row: = 36sc Change thread to red.

Fold the bodice in half and mark 6 medium loops on the sides for knitting in handles.

Row 31: 10sc, 6sc with the left handle, 12sc in the front, 6sc with the right handle, 2sc along the back = 36sc

32 row: 10sc on the back, 6sc on the handle, 12sc in the front, 6 sb. on the handle,

2sc on the back. = 36sc

Fill the bodice with filler.

Prepare a wire frame for the handles, as shown in the video.

In my case, the skeleton is:

23 cm. (Length from one handle to the second) + 4 cm. (For bending on both sides by 2 cm.) = 27 cm.

Bend the edges of the wire by 2 cm and wrap with a plaster.

Insert the frame into the handles and lightly fill with filler.

Change the thread to white.

33 row: (4sc, dec) * 6 = 30sc

34 row: (3sc, dec) * 6 = 24sc

Change the thread to beige.

Red and white thread, tie and trim.

35 row: (2sc, dec) * 6 = 18sc

36 row: (1sc, dec) * 6 = 12sc

Add filler.

37-45 row: = 12sc – Neck.

Add filler.

46 row: 6 dec

Pull off the hole, fasten, cut and hide the thread.

Cut off the excess wire, leave the tip 2.5 cm, for attaching the head.

Head.

Knitting with connecting rows, the “cross” method.

Mark the beginning of the row with a marker.

Beige thread (3445), hook number 2.

1st row: into magic ring 9sc, sl-st = 9sc

2nd row: 9 inc, sl-st = 18sc

Row 3-8: ch, 18sc, sl-st = 18sc (6 rows).

9th row: ch, (2sc, inc) * 6, sl-st = 24sc

10 row: ch, (3sc, inc) * 6, sl-st = 30sc

11 row: ch, 2sc, inc, (4sc, inc) * 5, 2sc, sl-st = 36sc

12 row: ch, (5sc, inc) * 6, sl-st = 42sc

Row 13: ch, 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc) * 5, 3sc, sl-st = 48sc

14th row: ch, (7sc, inc) * 6, sl-st = 54sc

15th row: ch, 4sc, (8sc, inc) * 5, 4sc, sl-st = 60sc

16 row: ch, (9sc, inc) * 6, sl-st = 66sc

17th row: ch, 5sc, inc, (10sc, inc) * 5, 5sc, sl-st = 72sc

Row 18-24: ch, 72sc, sl-st = 72sc (7 rows).

25 row: ch, 18sc, (dec, 1sc) * 4, dec, 4sc, marker, 4 sc., Dec, (1sc, dec) * 4, 18sc, sl-st = 62sc

Row 26-30: ch, 62sc, sl-st, = 62sc (5 rows).

Raise the thread (marker) straight up and count 4 rows, determine the middle.

To the right and left from the middle, count in 4 loops to mark the points of the eye embroidery.

There are 9 loops between points.

Row 31-37: ch, 62 sc., Sl-st (7 rows) = 62sc

Embroider the eyes, as shown in video # 5.

38 row: ch, dec, 58sc, dec, sl-st = 60sc

39 row: ch, 4sc, dec, (8sc, dec) * 5, 4sc, sl-st = 54sc

40 row: ch, (7sc, dec) * 6, sl-st = 48sc

Attach the head with a bead as shown in video # 5.

41 row: ch, 3sc., Dec, (6sc, dec) * 5, 3sc, sl-st = 42sc

42 row: ch, (5sc, dec) * 6, sl-st = 36sc

Fill with filler, forming cheeks.

43 row: ch, (4sc, dec) * 6, sl-st = 30sc

44 row: ch, (3sc, dec) * 6, sl-st = 24sc

45 row: ch, (2sc, dec) * 6, sl-st = 18sc

46 row: ch, (1sc, dec) * 6, sl-st = 12sc

Leave a hole to form the crown. Add filler.

Sew on the ears at a distance: From the eyebrows, count to the right and left in 4 loops (point A).

From the center of the nose, go down 2 rows and to the right and left, count 21 loops (point B).

Embroider the nose and mouth, glue the tresses, as shown in the video.

Shoes.

Knitting with connecting rows, the “cross” method.

Mark the beginning of the row with a marker.

Hook number 2.5, green thread – 3448 and white – 3410.

Cast on a chain of 7 ch, start knitting from the 2nd loop from the hook.

Row 1: inc, 4sc, into the last loop of chain 2 inc, along the second side of the chain 4sc, into the first loop of inc, sl-st = 16sc

2nd row: ch, 2 inc, 4sc, 4 inc, 4sc, 2 inc, sl-st = 24sc

3rd row: ch, (1sc, inc) * 2, 4sc, (1sc, inc) * 4, 4sc, (1sc, inc) * 2, sl-st = 32sc

4th row: ch, behind the back walls of the hinges 32sc, sl-st = 32sc

5-6 row: ch, 32sc, sl-st = 32sc, behind both walls of the loops.

7 row: ch, 8sc, 8 dec, 8sc, sl-st = 20sc

Fasten and cut the thread.

To the middle of the heel behind the free wall of the loop, attach a white thread and knit 32sc over the free wall of the loop.

Glue the sole

Backdrop.

From the middle of the heel to the right, count the 8th loop, attach a green thread and knit the backdrop in turning rows.

1st row: ch, 17sc, turn.

2nd row: from 2nd loop 7sc, inc, 8sc, turn.

3rd row: from 2nd loop 16sc, turn.

4th row: from 2nd loop 6sc, dec, 7sc, turn.

5 row: from 2nd loop 13sc

Change the thread to white.

Cut the green thread and weave the tails into knitting.

6 row: 2ch, turn, in the same loop knit 1 dc., Skip 1 loop of the base, in the next loop knit sl-st, * 2 ch, in the same loop knit dc., Skip the loop of the base and knit sl- st * repeat to the end of the row.

At the end of the row, from the last loop, knit a chain of 4 ch, sl-st into the loop from which the chain was knitted.

Fasten, cut and hide the thread. Iron the backdrop.

Insert lace and tie a bow, if desired.

Lace: ch chain, length -15 cm.

Knit the second shoe in the same way.

Issue at your discretion. You can sew on decorative leaves and small beads.

Skirt.

Knitting in a spiral, (except for the first 3 rows), in the “cross” method.

Mark the beginning of the row with a marker.

Hook number 2.5, threads: green – 3448, white – 3410 and red 3418.

With a green thread, cast on a chain of 33 ch

Start knitting from the second loop from the hook,

1st row: 32sc = 32sc turn.

2nd row: 32 inc = 64sc turn

3rd row: = 64sc behind the front walls of the loops.

Join knitting into a circle sl-st, then knit in a spiral, marking the beginning of the row with a marker.

4th row: (1sc, inc) * 32 = 96sc

5 row: = 96sc

6 row: (2sc, inc) * 32 = 128sc

7 row: = 128sc.

8 row: (3sc, inc) * 32 = 160sc

9th row: = 160sc

10 row: (4sc, inc) * 32 = 192sc

11-15 row: = 192sc

Next, knit with a jacquard pattern.

16 row: 24sc with green thread, 1sc with white thread, 13 sc. green, 1sc white, 19sc green, 1sc, white, 18sc green, 1sc white, 15sc green, 1sc white, 21sc green, 1sc white, 22sc green, 1sc white, 17sc green, 1sc white, 23sc green, 1sc 1sc white, 11sc 11sc = 192sc

17th row: 2sc white, 2sc green, 1sc white, 18sc green, 3sc white, 12sc green,

3sc, white, 12sc green, 1sc white, 4sc green, 2sc white, 17sc green,

2sc white, 10sc green, 1sc white, 2sc green, 2sc white, 15sc green,

1sc white, 6sc green, 2sc white, 15sc green, 1sc white, 4sc green,

2sc white, 15sc green, 2sc white, 11sc green, 1sc white, 11sc green,

2sc white, 9sc green, 1sc white = 192sc

18th row: 10sc white, 8sc green, 10sc white, 5sc green, 11sc white, 7sc green,

13sc white, 7sc green, 10sc white, 5sc green, 11sc white, 10sc green, 6sc white, 3sc green, 8sc white, 6sc green, 6sc white, 2sc 2sc, 3sc 2sc, 2sc 2sc, 2sc 2sc, 5sc 5sc, 2sc 2sc , 4sc green, 7sc white, 5sc green, 4sc white, 7sc green, 6sc white, 6sc green, 1sc white = 192sc

19 row: 5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 2sc green, 3sc white,1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 1sc green, 4sc white,1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 2sc white, 4sc green, 5sc white, 1sc red,5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 3sc green, 2sc white, 1sc red,5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 2sc green, 4sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white,1sc red, 3sc white, 5sc green, 2sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red,1sc white, 2sc green, 2sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 3sc green,2sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 2sc green, 4sc white, 1sc green, 5sc white,2sc green, 3sc white, 2sc green, 5sc white, 1sc red, 3sc white, 3sc green,5sc white, 1sc red, 4sc green, 1sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red,2sc white, 3sc green, 1sc red, 1sc white = 192sc

Cut the red thread.

20 row: 12sc white, 2sc green, 31sc white,3sc green, 18sc white, 3sc green,30sc white, 4sc green, 22sc white,2sc green, 21sc white, 2sc green,14sc white, 2sc green, 8sc white,3sc green, 10sc white, 2sc green,3sc white = 192sc

21st row: 13sc white, 1sc green, 32sc white, 2sc green, 19sc white, 2sc green,30sc white, 3sc green, 23sc white, 2sc green, 22sc white, 1sc green,14sc white, 2sc green, 9sc white, 2sc green, 11sc white, 1sc green,3sc white = 192sc

22 row: 2sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 4sc white, 1sc green, 1sc red,5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white,1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 1sc white, 1sc green, 3sc white, 1sc red,5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc green, 5sc white,1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red,5sc white, 1sc red, 1sc white, 2sc green, 2sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white,1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 2sc white,1sc green, 2sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc red,5sc white, 1sc red, 2sc white, 1sc green, 2sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white,1sc red, 5sc white, 2sc green, 4sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc green,5sc white, 1sc red, 5sc white, 1sc green, 3sc white. = 192sc

Cut the red thread.

23rd row: 13sc white, 1sc green, 32sc white,1sc green, 21sc white, 1sc green, 32sc white,1sc green, 23sc white, 1sc green, 38sc white,1sc green, 27sc white = 192sc

Cut the green thread.

24 row: = 192sc with white thread.

25th row: * (5sc white, 1sc red) * to the end of the row.

Cut the red thread.

26 row: = 192sc with white thread.

Connect knitting sl-st

27 row: “teeth” * (2 ch, 1 dc in the same loop, from which 2 ch come out, skip 1 loop of the base, and in the next knit sl-st) * until the end of the row.

Fasten and cut the thread. Iron the skirt from the wrong side. Next, proceed with the design of the skirt, as shown in video tutorial number 10.

Cardigan.

Knitting in the “cross” way, in rotary rows.

Mark the beginning of the row with markers.

Hook number 2, threads: green – 3448, white – 3410 and red 3418.

Cast on a chain of 30 ch with red thread.

1 row: from the 2nd loop from the hook, knit, 16sc, 13 hdc = 29 tbsp.

2 – 3 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 12 hdc = 13 st.

4 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 12 hdc, 16sc = 29 tbsp.

5 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 15sc, 13 hdc = 29 st.

6 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 12 hdc = 13 tbsp.

7 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 10 hdc = 11 tbsp.

8 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 10 hdc, 9sc = 20 st.

9 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 8sc, 10 hdc, inc from hdc = 21 st.

10-11 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc = 12 tbsp.

12 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc, 9sc = 21 st.

13 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 8sc, 12 hdc = 21 st.

14-15 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc = 12 tbsp.

16 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc, 9sc = 21 st.

17 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 8sc, 11 hdc, inc from hdc = 22 st.

18 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 12 hdc = 13 st.

19 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc, inc from hdc = 14 st.

20 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 13 hdc, 9sc, 8 ch, = 31 loops.

21 row: from the 2nd loop from the hook, knit 16sc, 12 hdc = 28 st.

22 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc = 12 st.

23 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base knit 10 hdc, inc from hdc = 13 st.

24 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 12 hdc, 16sc = 29 st.

25 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 15sc, 12 hdc, inc from hdc = 30 st.

26-27 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 13 hdc = 14 st.

28 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 13 hdc, 16sc = 30 st.

29 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 15sc, 13 hdc = 29 st.

30-31 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 12 hdc = 13 st.

32 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 12 hdc, 16sc = 29 st.

33 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 15sc, 11 hdc = 27 st.

34-35 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 10 hdc = 11 st.

36 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 10 hdc, 16sc = 27 st.

37 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 15sc, 10 hdc inc from hdc = 28 st.

38-39 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc = 12 st.

40 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc, 16sc, = 28 st.

41 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 15sc, 11 hdc, inc from hdc = 29 st.

42 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 12 hdc = 13 st.

43 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc, inc from hdc = 14 st.

44 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 13 hdc, 16sc, = 30 st.

45 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 15sc, 13 hdc inc from hdc = 31 st.

46 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 14 hdc = 15 st.

47 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 12 hdc = 13 st.

48 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 12 hdc, 16sc = 29 st.

49 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 15sc, 12 hdc = 28 st.

50 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc = 12 tbsp.

51 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base knit 10 hdc, inc from hdc = 13 st.

52 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 12 hdc, 16sc, = 29 st.

53 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 15sc, 12 hdc, inc from hdc = 30 st.

54 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 13 hdc = 14 st.

55 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc = 12 st.

56 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc, 9sc = 21 st.

57 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 8sc, 12 hdc = 21 st.

58 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc = 12 tbsp.

59 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 10 hdc, inc from hdc = 13 st.

60 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 12 hdc, 9sc = 22 st.

61 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 8sc, 12 hdc = 21 st.

62 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 11 hdc = 12 st.

63 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base knit 10 hdc, inc from hdc = 13 st.

64 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 12 hdc, 9sc = 22 st.

65 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 8sc, 12 hdc, inc from hdc = 23 st.

66 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop of the base, knit 13 hdc, = 14 st.

67 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 12 hdc = 13 st.

68 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 12 hdc, 9sc, 8 ch = 30 loops.

69 row: from the 2nd loop from the hook, knit 16sc, 12 hdc = 29 st.

70-71 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 11 hdc = 12 st.

72 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 11 hdc, 16sc = 28 st.

73 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 15sc, 11 hdc, inc from hdc = 29 st.

74-75 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 12 hdc = 13 st.

76 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 12 hdc, 2sc, 8 ch, count 2 loops of the base and in the second knit sl-st, turn, 12sc under a chain of 8 ch

Fasten and cut the thread.

Tie a button strip on the left shelf, watch the video.

Sew a button.

Collar.

1 row: on the left side, retreat 5 loops from the waist line up.

In the 6th, attach a red thread and knit

1st row: 34sc, turn,

2 row: from the 2nd loop, knit 32 hdc, turn,

3 row: from the 2nd loop, knit 30 hdc, turn,

4 row: from the 2nd loop knit 28 hdc, turn,

5 row: from the 2nd loop knit 12 hdc, dec, 12 hdc

Fasten and cut the thread.

Attach a white thread in the 3rd loop from the waist line, knit

6 row: 47sc

Cut the thread.

Tie the entire collar with 52sc green thread, hide all the threads.

Sleeves.

1st row: Raise along the line of the armhole to the right, 7sc, along the line of the sleeve of the sleeve 13 hdc = 20 st

2nd row: 7sc, 13 hdc = 20 st.

3rd row: 3sc, dec, 2sc, 13 hdc, = 19st.

4th row: 6sc, 13 hdc = 19 st.

5 row: 2sc, dec, 2sc, 13 hdc, = 18 st.

6 row: 5sc, 13 hdc = 18sc

7 row: 1sc, dec from 3 loops, 1sc, 13 hdc = 16 st.

8 row: 1sc, dec, 13 hdc = 15 st.

9 row: dec, 13 hdc = 14 st.

10-19 row: 14 hdc (10 rows).

20 row: 11 hdc change the thread to white.

Row 21: 14sc, change to green.

Row 22: 14sc Fasten and cut the thread. Embroider leaflets according to scheme number 1

Decorate the sides of the cardigan, as shown in the video.

Hat.

Knitting in the “cross” way, in rotary rows.

Mark the beginning of the row with markers.

Hook number 2, red thread 3418.

Cast on a chain of 31 ch, knit from the second loop from the hook

1 row: 12sc, 18 hdc = 30 st.

2 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 17 hdc, 12sc = 30 st.

3 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 17 hdc = 29 st.

4 row: 2 ch turn, from the 2nd loop knit 16 hdc, 12sc = 29 st.

5 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 11sc, 16 hdc, inc from hdc = 30 st.

6 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 17 hdc, 12sc = 30 st.

7 row: ch, turn, from 2nd loop knit 11sc, 17 hdc, inc from hdc = 31 st.

8 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 18 hdc, 12sc = 31 st.

9 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 18 hdc = 30 st.

10 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 17 hdc, 12sc = 30 st.

11 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 17 hdc = 29 st.

12th row: 2ch, turn, from 2nd loop knit 16 hdc, 12sc = 29 st.

13 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 16 hdc, inc from hdc = 30 st.

14 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 17 hdc, 12sc = 30 st.

15 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 17 hdc = 29 st.

16 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 16 hdc, 12sc = 29 st.

17 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 16 hdc = 28 st.

18 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 15 hdc, 12sc = 28 st.

19 row: ch, turn, from 2nd loop knit 11sc, 15 hdc, inc from hdc = 29 st.

20 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 16 hdc, 12sc = 29 st.

21 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 11sc, 16 hdc, inc from hdc = 30 st.

22 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 17 hdc, 12sc = 30 sat.

23 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 17 hdc = 29 st.

24 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 16 hdc, 12sc = 29 st.

25 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 16 hdc = 28 st.

26 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 15 hdc, 12sc = 28 st.

27 row: ch, turn, from 2nd loop knit 11sc, 15 hdc, inc from hdc = 29 st.

28 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 16 hdc, 12sc = 29 st.

29 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 16 hdc, inc from hdc = 30 st.

30 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 17 hdc, 12sc = 30 st.

31 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 17 hdc = 29sc

32 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 16 hdc, 12sc = 29 st.

33 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 16 hdc = 28 st.

34 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 15 hdc, 12sc = 28 st.

35 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 16 hdc = 28sc

36 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 15 hdc, 12sc = 28 st.

37 row: ch, turn, from 2nd loop knit 11sc, 15 hdc, inc from hdc = 29 st.

38 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 16 hdc, 12sc = 29 st.

39 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 17 hdc = 29 st.

40 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 16 hdc, 12sc = 29 st.

41 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 11sc, 15 hdc = 27 st.

42 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 14 hdc, 12sc = 27 st.

43 row: ch, turn, from 2nd loop knit 11sc, 14 hdc, inc from hdc = 28 st.

44 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 15 hdc, 12sc = 28 st.

45 row: ch, turn, from 2nd loop knit 11sc, 15 hdc, inc from hdc = 29 st.

46 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 16 hdc, 12sc = 29 st.

47 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 16 hdc, inc from hdc = 30 st.

48 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 17 hdc, 12sc = 30 st.

49 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 18 hdc = 30sc

50 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 17 hdc, 12sc = 30 st.

51 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 17 hdc = 29 st.

52 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 16 hdc, 12sc = 29 st.

53 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 11sc, 17 hdc = 29 st.

54 row: 2 ch, turn, from the 2nd loop knit 16 hdc, 12sc = 29 st.

55 row: ch, turn, from the 2nd loop, knit 28 sl-st = 29 st.

Fasten the thread and cut with a margin.

Iron the detail.

Make folds on the back of the head and sew a seam.

The doll is ready! I hope you succeeded and you are happy with the result.

The post Sweet Elf Doll Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

We share the latest Amigurumi free patterns. In this article, amigurumi doll jack free crochet pattern is waiting for you.

Materials:

• Lammy Yarns Rio (or other cotton yarn) in the following colours ; silver (003),grey (004), white (005), black, skin colour (218).

• Super Soft Yarn from Zeeman ; White

• A 2 mm crochet hook , or a hook matching your yarn

• Yarn needle, embroidery needle

• Safety eyes (8/9 mm diam.)

• Scissors

• Tape measure

• Safety pins

• Stitch markers

• Some blush for the cheeks

• Accessories; e.g. Butterflies, Easter Eggs, ribbons, buttons, … you can findthese online or at a local craft supply or yarn shop or Action, Xenos evenZeeman or Wibra

• Stuffing (Fiberfill)

• Optional ; embroidery thread

When Jacky is crocheted with a 2mm crochet hook and the indicated yarn, she willbe about 40 cm tall

PATTERN

Stitches / Abbreviations :
Yo Yarn over hook

ch Chain

tCh Turning Chain

Chstch Chain stitch

Slstch Slipstitch

MC Magic Circle

BLO Work into the back loop of the stitch only

tch Turning Chain

TW Turn your work

SC Single Crochet

HDC Half Double Crochet

DC Double Crochet

tog Together

2 tog Crochet 2 stitches together, making one stitchout of two or Decrease (Dec)

Inc Crochet two stitches in one stitch making twostitches out of one or Increase

(..) Total of stitches after a round or row

R Row or Round

( ) x 6 Repeat the action between brackets, times 6,or for the indicated number of times

Unless mentioned otherwise, we will be working in continuous rounds ! Also, takecare to watch out for the colour changes in certain parts of the pattern, they will beindicated as such.

PATTERN

Shoes :

Make two

With black ;

Ch 10

R 1. In 2nd chain from hook ;

SC2, SC7, SC Inc, proceed into the opposite side of the chain ( so, do not turn, justkeep on working in the back bumps of your chain, so you get a continuous ‘spiral’)SC2 in same chain ( in total you should now have 4 SC’s in the same Chstch ), SC7,SC Inc (22)

R2. SC Inc, SC1, SC Inc, SC 5, SC Inc, SC1, (SC Inc)x2, SC1, SC Inc, SC5, SC Inc, SC1,SC Inc (30)

R3. (SC Inc)x2, SC2, SC Inc, SC6, SC Inc, SC2, (SC Inc)x 3, SC2, SC Inc, SC6, SC Inc,SC2, SC Inc (40)

R4. SC4, SC Inc, SC15, (SC Inc)x 2, SC13, SC Inc, SC4 (44)

R5. BLO SC 44 around (44),

R6. Change colour to grey SC44 around (44)

R7 – R8.SC 44 around (44)

R9. SC18, (SC1, SC Dec)x 6, SC11 (38)

R10. SC38 around (38)

R11. SC12, (SC1, SC Dec)x 6, SC8 (32)

R12. SC32 around (32)

R13. SC10, (SC Dec)x 8, SC6 (24)

R14. SC24 around (24)

R15. (SC2, SC Dec)x 6 (12)

R16. SC12 around (12)

Change colour to grey

R17. SC4 ( you arrive in the middle of the back part of the shoe), change to white,

Slstch, SC18 (18)

R18. HDC18 around (18)

R19 – R20. HDC 18 around (18)

R21. (HDC 2, HDC Inc)x 6 (24)

R22. HDC 24 around (24)

R23. HDC23, SC1, HDC1 (24)

Fasten Off. Leave a tail for sewing the leg into the shoe later on. Fold over the ribbing(brim) of the shoe. Make the second shoe.

Stuff only the shoe part, not the brim. You’ll need this space later on, for the leg.

Legs :

Make two

With silver, we first start making a sock ;

SC 6 into MC

R 1. ( SC Inc ) x 6 (12)

R2 – R 7. SC12 around (12)

Change to White

R 8. SC12 around (12)

R 9. SC12 around (12)

Change to silver

R 10. SC12 around (12)

R 11. SC12 around (12)

Change to white

R12. SC12 around (12)

R13. SC 12 around (12)

Change to skin colour

R14 – R41. SC12 around ( 28 Rnds) ** (12)

Change to grey

R42. SC12 (12)

R43 – R44. SC12 around (12)

R45. (SC3, SC Inc)x 3 (15)

** Start stuffing the leg around Rnd 23, right up to approx. a cm above the last whitestripe of the sock. You will not stuff the remainder of the leg, since it is supposed to be‘floppy, wobbly’ so it ‘falls’ nicely when you put your Jacky onto the edge of acupboard, on the mantelpiece or on the windowsill and the legs won’t stick straight out !

Fasten off and weave in ends of the first leg after R45.

Do not fasten off the second leg. Instead, you will Ch 3 after R45, attach this Ch ontothe first leg with a SC and SC around the perimeter of the leg. Ch3 after this Rnd aswell, proceeding to attach this Ch3 with SC onto the first leg as well (36 SC)

Now, you will continue with the rest of …

Body :

With silver ;

R1 – R12. SC 36 around (36)

R 13. Make a few SC’s so as to arrive in the middle of the back.

Change to white , SC 36 (36)

R 14. Change back to silver BLO SC5, SC Dec, SC2, SC Dec, SC12, SC Dec, SC2, SCDec, SC7 (32)

R15. SC6, SC Dec, SC15, SC Dec, SC6 (30)

R16. SC7, SC Dec, SC14, SC Dec, SC5 (28)

R17. SC8, SC Dec, SC13, SC Dec, SC4 (26)

Leave the body for now. We will start on the skirt

I begin working on the skirt at this point, because the body isn’t stuffed yet, so it’seasier to manipulate. I fasten off the body part, and re-attach later, because theyarn end with the skein tends to twist and turn and get tangled when I’m working onthe skirt, and this bothers me. However, if you’re ok with it, by all means, leave it as is,so you can pick your yarn up later.

Position the body, its opening facing you, legs pointing upward. Attach white yarninto the loops of R14.

The Skirt :

With white

R1 Start by making an SC Increase in every stitch around, close the Rnd with a Slstch(72)

R2. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

R3. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

Change to Silver

R4. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

R5. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

Change to Grey (004)

R6. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

R7. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

Change to black

R8. (SC3 into 1)x 72 (216)

Fasten Off, weave in ends

Sew the crotch shit and stuff the body. You will be stuffing the rest of the body as yougo. You will not stuff the neck, a special part will be made for support purposes ,which I call the ‘sausage’

Proceed with making the body ;

R18. SC 7, SC Dec, SC12, SC Dec, SC3 (24)

R19. SC7, SC Dec, SC11, SC Dec, SC2 (22)

R20. SC7, SC Dec, SC10, SC Dec, SC1 (20)

R21. With silver SC7, SC Dec, SC9, SC Dec, SC2 (18)

Change to skin colour

R22. SC4, SC Dec, SC8, SC Dec, SC2 (16)

R23. SC4, SC Dec, SC7, SC Dec, S1 (14)

R24. SC4, SC Dec, SC6, SC Dec (12)

R25 – R28. SC12 around (12)

Now for the head. Do not fasten off, but continue onwards from R28 as follows ;

The Head :

R29. (SC1, SC Inc)x 6 (18)

R30. (SC2, SC Inc)x 6 (24)

R31. (SC3, SC Inc)x 6 (30)

R32. (SC4, SC Inc)x 6 (36)

R33. (SC5, SC Inc)x 6 (42)

R34. (SC6, SC Inc)x 6 (48)

R35 – R43. SC 48 around ** (48)

** place a stitch marker in between row 39 and row 40, you will attach your safetyeyes here later.

When I start decreasing i the head part, I tend to change the colour from skin colourto white, this allows me to determine the positioning of the hair more accurately lateron. This is a personal preference of course, and if you prefer continuing in skin colour,please feel free to do so !

R44. (SC6, SC Dec)x 6 (42)

R45. (SC5, SC Dec)x 6 (36)

R46. (SC4, SC Dec)x 6 (32)

R47. (SC6, SC Dec)x 6 (24)

The Sausage :

Before you continue Decreasing, you will make the ‘sausage’ for the neck part.

Starting with skin colour ;

SC 5 into MC

R1. (SC Inc) around (10)

R2 – R14. SC10 around (10)

Stuff firmly, it is important that the sausage be firm to be able to support the neck, sodon’t skimp on the Fiberfil !

Place the sausage in the neck, making sure it covers it and that the bottom part ofthe sausage meets the body. ( you can gentle squeeze the body to feel where it should go)

The Eyes and the Nose :

Attach the safety eyes in between R 11 & R 12 of the head, leaving a space of about8 stitches in between them.

If you do this at this point, you can still easily add eyelashes to the eyes beforesecuring them, because the stitches can still be easily reached with your needle.

I usually use a piece of black 4ply cotton thread, of which I remove two strands. Youcan also use embroidery thread if you have this, and glue on some fake lashes,whichever you prefer.

Now, create a nose with the skin coloured yarn , one row down and in between theeyes. Make two stitches over the width of 2 v-stitches (SC’s)).

Stuffing the Head :

In order for the head to have a nice, round and even shape, without lumps orbumps, it is key to stuff it with care.

I proceed as follows ;

Put four fingers into the head, carefully stretching the fabric of the bottom part withyour index finger and your middle finger. Don’t stretch your crochet work out toomuch, though ! Take some Fiberfil, pry it open, gently place it across the bottom ofthe head, repeat, working in layers as it were and making sure to carefully line all thesides as well. The middle part is left unfilled for now, so it should look a bit like a donut.

You stuff the middle in the end of the stuffing process, this when the sides are alllined, this is for an even result, without lumps, from the bottom up, all the way to the top.

You can give the cheeks a flush of colour, or even make a freckle or two ?

I use light pink blush and apply it with an eyeshadow brush. Dip the brush into the blush, swipe over a paper towel to remove the excess and apply carefully. Less ismore, so apply carefully, you can always add more if need be. If you apply too much, you won’t be able to correct it anymore, so I urge you to be vigilant !

Proceed with closing the head ;

R48. (SC2, SC Dec)x 6 (18)

R49. (SC1, SC Dec)x 6 (12)

Fasten off, weave in ends.

The Arms :

(Make two)

With skin colour ;

R 1. SC 5 into MC (5)

R 2. (SC Inc)x 5 (10)

R 3 – R6. SC 10 around (10)

! Change to silver

R 7 – R 30. SC 10 around ** (10)

** Start stuffing when you’ve arrived at approx. Rnd 12.

You will not stuff the rest of the arm, just like the legs aren’t stuffed completely . This isto ensure the arms from falling/hanging nicely at the sides of the body.

Pinch the arm together and crochet together two by two stitches. (4)

Attach both arms onto the body at approx. the height of the neck, right where thecolour changes from skin colour to silver.

Ribbing/Brim for the neck :

This part of the pattern is crocheted in rows, not in a spiral.

The finished piece should look like a small rectangle.

With silver ;

R1. Ch 8, SC into 2nd from hook, SC6, tCh (7)

R2 – R 22. SC7 , tCh around for 21 rows (7)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Depending on how firmly you’ve stuffed the body, you might need to make a row ortwo extra here.

Fold in two and sew shut at the ‘short’ sides. Place onto the colour change of theneck part (silver to skin colour), with the fold facing up.

Because it can be a bit of a challenge to attach this part, I always pin it into placefirst. I also press the arms down to the sides of the body, in order to make it easier towrap the ribbing around the neck. Sew together the two short sides of your rectangle, creating a seam, which should be positioned at back of the neck. Secure the ribbing onto the body with a few strategically placed stitches. Be careful not to pull your stitches too tough, or you will get an uneven, ‘bumpy’ result !

The Ribbing for the Sleeves/Arms :

(Make two)

This part of the pattern is crocheted in rows, not in a spiral.

The finished piece should look like a small rectangle.

With silver ;

R1. Ch 8, SC into 2nd from hook, SC 6, tch (7)

R2 – R 17. SC7 , tCh around (7)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

You might also need a row or two more here, again depending on how firmly the arms have been stuffed. Fold over the finished piece, sew close on the shortest sides, pin into place and attach to the arm where the colour changes from silver to skin colour, the fold facing down. Sew both short sides together, creating a seam. Secure with a few stitches, making sure your seam faces the back of the arm. Again, do not pull too hard on the stitches here, so you don’t get any ‘lumps’, and the ribbing stays nice and even.

The Socks :

(Make two)

This part of the pattern is crocheted in rows, not in a spiral.

The finished piece should look like a small rectangle.

With white ;

R1. Ch 8, SC into 2nd from hook, SC6, tCh (7)

R2 – R 19. SC7, tCh around (7)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Depending on how firmly you’ve stuffed the body, you might need to make a row or two extra here.

Fold in two and sew shut at the ‘short’ sides. Place onto the colour change, with the fold facing up.

Pin into place. Sew together the two short sides of your rectangle, creating a seam, which should be positioned at the back of the leg. Secure the ribbing onto the leg with a few strategically placed stitches. Be careful not to pull your stitches too tough, or you will get an uneven, ‘bumpy’ result !

Assembly for Leg & Shoe :

Now it’s time to put some shoes on !

You will attach the leg to the shoe, using the tail of the Supersoft yarn you’ve left out before. First, work the yarn tail up to the middle of the ribbing. Next, unfold , place the leg into the opening and carefully guide your yarn tail through the shoe and through the leg and back again, thus securing the shoe onto the leg. Don’t pull too tightly on your stitches and make sure the toes of shoes are pointing forward ! These stitches should be made at about mid-height, right where you’ve just worked up your yarn tail, making sure the leg is positioned deep enough into the shoe.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Fold the ribbing back over. Repeat this process for the second leg.

Hair

(‘Wig’ part)

With black ;

R 1. SC 6 into MC or Ch 2 and SC 6 into first Chstch (6)

R 2. ( SC Inc ) x 6 (12)

R 3. ( SC 1, SC Inc )x 6 (18)

R 4. ( SC 2, SC Inc )x 6 (24)

R 5. ( SC 3, SC Inc )x 6 (30)

R 6. ( SC 4, SC Inc )x 6 (36)

R 7. ( SC 5, SC Inc )x 6 (42)

R 8. ( SC 6, SC Inc )x 6 (48)

R 9 – R 17. SC 48 around (48)

R 18. Slstch around, work loosely!

Fasten off, leave long tail for sewing.

Hair Buns :

Make two

With black ;

R 1. SC 6 into MC or Ch 2 and SC 6 into first Chstch (6)

R 2. ( SC Inc ) x 6 (12)

R 3. ( SC 1, SC Inc )x 6 (18)

R 4. ( SC 2, SC Inc )x 6 (24)

R 5 – R 6. SC 24 around (24)

R 7. ( SC 2, SC Dec)x 6 (18)

Fasten off, leave long tail for sewing the buns onto the hair.

Where you put them, is down to your imagination.

I usually put mine rather high up onto the head ( in between Rnds 7 & 11, counting from the MC on the ‘wig’ hair part you’ve just created )

First, I encourage you to pin down the buns, so you can still move them, see what looks best. Find the placement that ‘works’ for you and sew shut about 3/4ths of the bun. This way, you can still stuff them more, if need be.

We all like nice, tight looking buns, don’t we ? �

Accessories :

Now, for the most fun part. After all your hard crochet work, you can relax and start decorating your Jacky. You can use whatever you fancy and what you feel your version of Jacky needs. You can adapt her to the Season, make a boy version of Jacky with some trousers, change her hairstyle, add flowers, buttons, … The possibilities are endless !

Is she ready ? Put her in the spotlights and show her off, share her with the rest of the World !

Variations :

You can let your creative juices flowing and customise this pattern to your taste ! I’ve lined up some of my ‘Jacky’-creations for inspiration. For example, mind the detail on the shoes.

And what do you think about the Easter-Jacky ? Aren’t they cute ?

The Low Shoes (ballerina’s) :

These are not made separately, but are attached to the leg.

Proceed as follows ;

R1 – R 9 : See description Shoe n°1, then change to sock colour

R10. Same as in description of shoe n°1 (see pg. 5) but BLO (!)

R11 – R16. Same as in description shoe n°1 (see pg. 5)

R17. (SC1, SC Inc)x 6 (12)

R18 – R23. SC23 around (23)

Change to skin colour and proceed with the rest of the shoe pattern from R24 onwards.

In order to accentuate the shoe, make a few stitches (colour of the shoe) into the front loops of R10.

Next, Ch30, and wrap this chain forming an ‘X’ around on the front of the foot, right beneath the ribbing, wrapping it further around onto the back of the leg. Secure it at the back of the leg (see photo).

Tiny Daisy Flower for the Low Shoe * :

With yellow ;

R 1. SC 6 into MC , Slstch,

Change to White ;

R 2. (Ch3, SC1)x 5

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

(*The pattern of this Daisy Flower is by Christel Krukkert, from her book ‘Christels’ Knuffels’, it’s the flower on the dress of the little pig.)

The post Amigurumi Doll Jack Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

Welcome to our website where you can find the most beautiful and highest quality samples of Amigurumi patterns.

Necessary materials and tools: 

1) yarn “Moscow Region” from Troitsk (50% wool, 50% acrylic, 250m / 100g) colors “Champagne” for the body – 1 pc.; 

2) yarn “Bambino” Camtex (35% wool, 65% acrylic, 150m / 50g) pink for dressings and roses – a little; 

3) Kamtex Bambino yarn (35% wool, 65% acrylic, 150m / 50g) white for tights – 0.5 pcs.; 

4) Kamtex Bambino yarn (35% wool, 65% acrylic, 150m / 50g) blue turquoise for tights – 0.5 pcs.; 

5) yarn “Bambino” Camtex (35% wool, 65% acrylic, 150m / 50g) St. Blue colors for dress and wings – 1 pc.; 

6) Nako Bambino yarn (25% wool, 75% acrylic, 130m / 50g) light green for a shuttlecock – a little; 

7) yarn Karakul-stretch Kamteks (44% im.wool, 44% acrylic, 10% cotton, 2% Lycra, 145m / 100g) blue for hair – 1 pc.; 

8) the threads “Iris” or “Floss” brown for the eyes – a little; 

9) kapron thread or fishing line for tying – a little; 

10) filler (holofiber, or synthetic winterizer, or synthetic winterizer) – 150 – 200 gr. 

11) aluminum (or copper) wire for weaving with a diameter of 2 mm for frame – 3 – 3.5 m; 

12) white felt for the eyes – a little; 

13) eyes for dolls with a ray of blue with a diameter of 25 mm – 1 pair; 

14) false eyelashes or doll; 

15) transparent super-glue for fixing eyes and eyelashes, as well as elements decor – a little; 

16) a needle with a big eye; 

17) hook No. 3 for the main knitting; 

18) hook number 2; 

19) colored pins for marking; 

20) white fabric adhesive tape or tape for wrapping ends wire; 

21) white plastic or thick cardboard for insoles – a little; 

22) buttons with a diameter of 10 – 12 mm white or blue – 2 pcs .; 

23) scissors; 

24) beads, half beads, flower buds and other decorative elements for decorations (optional); 

25) an elastic band for medium-sized hair in blue (optional) – 1 pc.; 

26) pink dry pastel for tinting (optional). Important! You can use any strings by picking hooks under them the necessary size! 

PATTERN 

ABBREVATİONS 

CH – chain 

SC – single crochet; 

İNC – increase 

DEC – decrease 

DC – double crochet; 

İNC DC – increase of double crochet 

DEC DC – decrease of the double crochet; 

HDC – half crochet; 

İNC HDC – increase of half crochet with a crochet; 

DEC HDC – decrease half crochet with a crochet; 

SL-ST – slip-stitch; 

BLO – back half loop; 

FLO – front half loop. 

HEAD 

Knit with flesh-colored threads in a spiral, hook number 3 (or the fact that you selected for main knitting). 

1 row: 6 SC into magic ring (6) 

2 row: 6 İNC (12) 

3 row: (SC, İNC) * 6 (18) 

4th row: SC, İNC, (2 SC, İNC) * 5, SC (24) 

5 row: (3 SC, İNC) * 6 (30) 

6 row: 2 SC, İNC, (4 SC, İNC) * 5, 2 SC (36) 

7 row: (5 SC, İNC) * 6 (42) 

8 row: 3 SC, İNC, (6 SC, İNC) * 5, 3 SC (48) 

9 row: (7 SC, İNC) * 6 (54) 

10 row: 4 SC, İNC, (8 SC, İNC) * 5, 4 SC (60) 

11 row: (9 SC, İNC) * 6 (66) 

12 row: 5 SC, İNC, (10 SC, İNC) * 5, 5 SC (72) 

13 – 19 row (7 rows): 72 SC (72) 

20 row: 36 SC, (İNC, 6 SC) * 5, İNC (78) 

21 – 25 rows (5 rows): 78 SC (78) 

26 row: 36 SC, DEC, (6 SC, DEC) * 5 (72) 

27 row: 5 SC, DEC, (10 SC, DEC) * 5, 5 SC (66) 

28 row: (9 SC, DEC) * 6 (60) 

29 row: 4 SC, DEC, (8 SC, DEC) * 5, 4 SC (54) 

30 row: (7 SC, DEC) * 6 (48) 

31 rows: 3 SC, DEC, (6 SC, DEC) * 5, 3 SC (42) 

32 row: (5 SC, DEC) * 6 (36) 

33 row: 2 SC, DEC, (4 SC, DEC) * 5, 2 SC (30) 

34 row: (3 SC, DEC) * 6 (24) 

35 row: SC, DEC, (2 SC, DEC) * 5, SC (18) 

36 row: (SC, DEC) * 6 (12) 

We fix the thread, cut it off. We fill the head with filler. 

PENS 

We knit handles with flesh-colored threads, hook No. 2 (or smaller, than you have chosen for the main knitting). 

First we knit the fingers. For the left and right hands, they fit equally. 

Middle, index and ring fingers. 

1 row: 5 SC into magic ring (5) 

2 – 5 row (4 rows): 5 SC (5) 

We fix the thread, cut it off. 

Thumb and little finger. 

1 row: 5 SC into magic ring (5) 

2 – 4 rows (3 rows): 5 SC (5) 

On the little finger we do not cut the thread, continue to knit, connecting the fingers in the palm of the hand. 

Right hand. 

1 row: 2 SC on the little finger, 2 SC on the ring finger, 2 SC on the middle 

finger, 5 SC on the index finger, 3 SC on the middle finger, 3 SC 

on the ring finger, 3 SC on the little finger (20) 

2 row: 20 SC (20) 

Note! The start row marker should be in the middle of the rib palms from below. If necessary, we knit displacement loops. 

In the next row we tie the thumb. 

3 row: 7 SC palm, 1 SC with thumb (grab simultaneously SC palm and SC thumb), 12 SC palm (20) 

4 row: 7 SC on the palm, 3 SC on the thumb, grab the SC thumb and SC palm and knit them together UB, 11 SC by palms (22) 

5 row: 8 SC, DEC, 10 SC, DEC (20) 

6 row: (3 SC, DEC) * 4 (16) 

7 row: (2 SC, DEC) * 4 (12) 

Lightly stuff the palm with the filler. 

8 row: (SC, DEC) * 4 (8) 

Cut off about 35 cm of wire. We make a small end eyelet so that you can insert it into the palm of your hand. Wire ends twist together, isolate with tissue adhesive tape or electrical tape. 

We make 2 such blanks. 

Insert the wire blank into the handle. 

9 – 19 rows (11 rows): 8 SC (8) 

20 row: (3 SC, İNC) * 2 (10) 

21 – 23 rows (3 rows): 10 SC (10) 

24 row: (4 SC, İNC) * 2 (12) 

25-30 row (6 rows): 12SC (12) Fasten the thread, cut it. We fill the handle with filler. 

Left hand. 

1 row: 3 SC on the little finger, 3 SC on the ring finger, 3 SC on the middle finger, 5 SC on the index finger, 2 SC on the middle finger, 2 SC on the ring finger, 2 SC on the little finger (20) 

2 row: 20 SC (20) 

Note! The start row marker should be in the middle of the rib palms from below. If necessary, we knit displacement loops. 

In the next row we tie the thumb. 

3 row: 12 SC in the palm of your hand, 1 SC with thumb (grab both SC palm and SC thumb), 7 SC palm (20) 

4 row: 11 SC on the palm, grab the SC of the thumb and SC of the palm and 

we knit them together UB, 3 SC on the thumb, 7 SC on the palm (22) 

5 row: DEC, 10 SC, DEC, 8 SC (20) 

6 row: (3 SC, DEC) * 4 (16) 

7 row: (2 SC, DEC) * 4 (12) 

Lightly stuff the palm with the filler. 

8 row: (SC, DEC) * 4 (8) 

Insert the wire blank into the handle. 

9 – 19 rows (11 rows): 8 SC (8) 

20 row: (İNC, 3 SC) * 2 (10) 

21 – 23 rows (3 rows): 10 SC (10) 

24 row: (İNC, 4 SC) * 2 (12) 

25-30 row (6 rows): 12 SC (12) 

We fix the thread, cut it off. We fill the handle with filler. 

WINGS 

We knit with St. blue threads in rotary rows, hook No. 3 (or one that 

You have chosen for the main knitting). 

First, we knit large wings (2 pcs.) 

1 row: we dial 3 CH + 1 CH, from the second from the hook of the loop we knit along chain 3 SC, CH, turn (3) 

2 row: İNC, SC, İNC, CH, turn (5) 

3 row: 5 SC, CH, turn (5) 

4 row: İNC, 3 SC, İNC, CH, turn (7) 

5 row: 7 SC, CH, turn (7) 

6 row: İNC, 5 SC, İNC, CH, turn (9) 

7 row: 9 SC, CH, turn (9) 

8 row: İNC, 7 SC, İNC, CH, turn (11) 

9 row: 11 SC, CH, turn (11) 

10 row: İNC, 9 SC, İNC, CH, turn (13) 

11 row: 13 SC, CH, turn (13) 

12 row: İNC, 11 SC, İNC, CH, turn (15) 

13 – 33 (21 rows): 15 SC, CH, turn (15) 

34 row: DEC, 11 SC, DEC, CH, turn (13) 

35 row: DEC, 9 SC, DEC, CH, turn (11) 

36 row: DEC, 7 SC, DEC, CH, turn (9) 

37 row: DEC, 5 SC, DEC (7) 

We do not cut the thread, but we tie the wing along the SC contour, then the thread fasten, trim. 

We attach the St. blue thread to the center of the narrow part of the wing, lay along the contour of the winglet to the wire and tie it with SC, leaving the ends about 10 cm (see photo). We fix the thread, leave a small end (about 20 cm), cut off. 

We knit the second wing in the same way. 

Then we knit small wings (2 pcs.) 

1 row: we dial 3 CH + 1 CH, from the second from the hook of the loop we knit along chain 3 SC, CH, turn (3) 

2 row: İNC, SC, İNC, CH, turn (5) 

3 row: 5 SC, CH, turn (5) 

4 row: İNC, 3 SC, İNC, CH, turn (7) 

5 row: 7 SC, CH, turn (7) 

6 row: İNC, 5 SC, İNC, CH, turn (9) 

7 row: 9 SC, CH, turn (9) 

8 row: İNC, 7 SC, İNC, CH, turn (11) 

9 – 24 (16 rows): 11 SC, CH, turn (11) 

25 row: DEC, 7 SC, DEC, CH, turn (9) 

26 row: DEC, 5 SC, DEC, CH, turn (7) 

27 row: DEC, 3 SC, DEC (5) 

We do not cut the thread, but we tie the wing along the SC contour, then the thread fasten, trim. 

We attach the light blue thread to the center of the narrow part of the winglet, lay a wire along the contour of the wing and tie it with SC, leaving the ends about 10 cm long (see photo). We fix the thread, leave the small end (about 20 cm), cut off. 

We knit the second wing in the same way. 

All wings are decorated with embroidery, beads, half beads, rhinestones and so on. to your taste (optional). 

We twist the wire of the large and small wings together, isolate fabric adhesive tape or electrical tape (see photo). 

LEGS 

Right foot. 

We start knitting with white threads, hook number 3 (or the one that you have chosen for main binding). 

1 row: 6 SC into magic ring (6) 

2 row: (İNC, 2 SC) * 2 (8) 

3 row: 8 SC (8) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

4th row: (İNC, 3 SC) * 2 (10) 

5 row: 10 SC (10) 

Change the thread to white. 

6 row: (İNC, 4 SC) * 2 (12) 

7 row: 12 SC (12) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

8 row: (İNC, 5 SC) * 2 (14) 

9 row: 14 SC (14) 

Change the thread to white. 

10 row: (İNC, 6 SC) * 2 (16) 

11 row: (İNC, 7 SC) * 2 (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

12 row: (İNC, 8 SC) * 2 (20) 

13 row: (İNC, 9 SC) * 2 (22) 

Change the thread to white. 

14 row: (İNC, 10 SC) * 2 (24) 

15 row: 24 SC (24) 

Note! İNC are located on the sides of the foot. 

16 row: SC, 10 CH, 10 SC skip, 13 SC (24) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

17th row: SC, 10 SC along the chain of CH, 13 SC along the heel (24) 

18 row: (2 SC, DEC) * 6 (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

19 row: (SC, DEC) * 6 (12) 

20 row: 6 DEC (6) 

We tighten the remaining hole, fix the thread, cut it off. 

We attach the white thread in the gap between the sock and the heel with inner side of the leg and knit the top of the leg. 

Note! The marker of the beginning of the series here and further is located in the middle the inner side of the leg, if necessary, we knit displacement loops. 

21 row: SC in the gap between the toe and the heel on the inside legs, 12 SC on the toe, SC between the toe and the heel with the outer side of the leg, 10 SC along the chain of CH on the heel (24) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

22 row: (2 SC, DEC) * 6 (18) 

23 row: 18 SC (18) 

Cut off about 80 cm of wire. Fold the cut wire in half, at the end we make a loop in the form of a connected foot, the ends of the wire twist together and isolate with a tissue adhesive tape or electrical tape 

We make 2 such blanks from wire. 

Insert the wire blank into the leg, fill the foot with filler. 

Change the thread to white. 

24 – 25 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

26 – 27 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

28 – 29 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

30 – 31 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

32 – 33 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

34 – 35 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

36 – 37 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

38 – 39 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

40 – 41 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

42 – 43 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

44 – 45 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

46 – 47 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

48 row: 18 SC (18) 

Left leg. 

We start knitting with white threads, hook number 3 (or the one that you have chosen for main binding). 

1 row: 6 SC into magic ring (6) 

2 row: (2 SC, İNC) * 2 (8) 

3 row: 8 SC (8) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

4th row: (3 SC, İNC) * 2 (10) 

5 row: 10 SC (10) 

Change the thread to white. 

6 row: (4 SC, İNC) * 2 (12) 

7 row: 12 SC (12) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

8 row: (5 SC, İNC * 2 (14) 

9 row: 14 SC (14) 

Change the thread to white. 

10 row: (6 SC, İNC) * 2 (16) 

11 row: (7 SC, İNC) * 2 (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

12 row: (8 SC, İNC) * 2 (20) 

13 row: (9 SC, İNC) * 2 (22) 

Change the thread to white. 

14 row: (10 SC, İNC) * 2 (24) 

15 row: 24 SC (24) 

Note! İNC are located on the sides of the foot. 

16 row: 13 SC, 10 CH, 10 SC skip, SC (24) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

17 row: 13 SC, 10 SC along the chain of CH, SC (24) 

18 row: (DEC, 2 SC) * 6 (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

19 row: (DEC, SC) * 6 (12) 

20 row: 6 DEC (6) 

We tighten the remaining hole, fix the thread, cut it off. 

We attach the white thread in the gap between the sock and the heel with inner side of the leg and knit the top of the leg. 

Note! The marker of the beginning of the series here and further is located in the middle the inner side of the leg, if necessary, we knit displacement loops. 

21 row: SC in the gap between the toe and the heel on the inside legs, 10 SC along the chain of CH on the heel, SC between the toe and heel on the outside of the foot, 12 SC on the toe (24) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

22 row: (DEC, 2 SC) * 6 (18) 

23 row: 18 SC (18) 

Insert the wire blank into the leg, fill the foot with filler. 

Change the thread to white. 

24 – 25 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

26 – 27 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

28 – 29 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

30 – 31 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

32 – 33 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

34 – 35 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

36 – 37 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

38 – 39 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

40 – 41 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

42 – 43 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

44 – 45 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

46 – 47 row: 18 SC (18) 

Change the thread to white. 

48 row: 18 SC (18) 

We do not cut the white thread in the 48th row of knitting, then we will connect the legs and knit a little body. 

BODY 

On the leg where the uncut white thread was left, we dial 3 CH and connect with the second leg. 

1 row: 18 SC on the leg, 3 SC on the chain of CH, 18 SC on the other leg, 3 SC on the other side of the chain of CH (42) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

2 row: (6 SC, İNC) * 6 (48) 

3 row: 48 SC (48) 

Change the thread to white. 

4 – 5 row: 48 SC (48) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

6 row: (7 SC, İNC) * 6 (54) 

7 row: 54 SC (54) 

Change the thread to white. 

8 – 9 row: 54 SC (54) 

Change the thread to turquoise. 

10 row: (7 SC, DEC) * 6 (48) 

11 row: (6 SC, DEC) * 6 (42) 

We tie it to the middle of the side, transfer the marker of the beginning of the row here. 

Change the thread to bodily. 

12 – 18 (7 rows): 42 SC (42) 

We stuff the body with a filler. 

19 row: (5 SC, DEC) * 6 (36) 

20 – 25 (6 rows): 36 SC (36) 

The 25th row is not tied to the middle of the side (beginning of the row) 2 SC. 

In the next row we tie the handles and knit the wings. 

First, we fasten the wings in the center back to the common winding coming from legs, isolate with tissue adhesive tape or electrical tape. Ends of threads which we left on the wings, wrap around a twist and tie by several knots for even more reliable fastening of the wings. 

26 row: 4 SC together with the handle (at the same time we capture SC bodies and SC handles and knit them together), 5 SC on the back, 4 CH (start over wings) 4 SC skip the back (they are under the wings), 5 SC on the back, 4 SC along with the second handle, 14 SC on the front (36) 

27 row: 8 SC on the handle, 5 SC on the back, 4 SC on the chain of CH over wings, 5 SC on the back, 8 SC on the second handle, 14 SC on the front (44) 

We fasten the wire from the handles to the common winding, isolate with fabric adhesive tape or electrical tape. 

28 row: (8 SC, DEC, 10 SC, DEC) * 2 (40) 

29 row: (8 SC, DEC) * 4 (36) 

30 row: (4 SC, DEC) * 6 (30) 

We stuff the body with a filler. 

31 row: (3 SC, DEC) * 6 (24) 

32 row: (2 SC, DEC) * 6 (18) 

We stuff the body and shoulders with the filler to the end. 

33 row: (SC, DEC) * 6 (12) 

34 – 38 (5 rows): 12 SC (12) 

We fix the thread, leave the end for sewing on the head, cut it off. 

EYE LENS 

First, with the help of colored pins, we make markings for eye tightening. 

1) Count down from the top of the 18 rows of SC down and in the center of the protruding part put a blue pin on the head (see photo). 

2) Count from the blue pin 5 SC to the left and 2 SC up, set the green pin (dot). 

3) Count from the green pin (point) 1 SC up and put the purple pin (dot). 

4) Count from the blue pins (dots) 5 SC right and 2 SC up, set red pin (dot). 

5) Count from the red pin (point) 1 SC up and put the pink pin (dot). 

6) In the last row of knitting the head perpendicular to the blue pin, put yellow pin (dot)

We make eye tightening using a long needle and kapron thread (or fishing line) as follows: insert the needle at the yellow dot, output at the green dot, insert the needle again at the purple dot and output at the pink dot, then enter the needle at the red dot and put it into the open hole in the head. Slightly tighten the thread, tie the ends to several knots and hide them in open hole in the head. Done! 

FACE DECORATION 

We make out the eyes. 

1) We cut out two blanks for the eyes from white felt, we look at the shape in the photo. 

Note! Those who crocheted No. 3 of threads similar in density to indicated by me, the size of the felt parts is approximately 28 * 30 mm. Rest select the size of the eyes visually for the size of the resulting head. 

2) We make small cuts in the center of the resulting blanks. 

3) Insert into the incisions the blue eye pupils with a diameter of 25 mm. 

4) We try on the obtained eyes on the head. 

5) Sew the felt details of the eyes with brown threads “Iris” or 

“Mouline thread” with small stitches with a stitching seam. 

6) The pupils of the eyes are coated on the back with transparent super-glue and glue it. 

Note! If you have eyes with a leg or screw on the back, you do not need them file away! Stretch the noose on your head where the pupils should be, and insert the leg or screw inside the head, then glue the pupil. So eye will keep more reliable! 

7) On the edge of the eye, glue false eyelashes with transparent super-glue (see a photo). 

We make out the nose. 

We retreat from the inner corners of the eyes 2 rows SC down and three or four with flesh-colored stitches, embroider a 2-3 SC wide spout. Then with brown threads “Iris” or “Mouline thread” we embroider the contour of the nose.

We rise 2 rows of SC up above the eyes and brown threads “Iris” or “Mouline thread” embroider small eyebrows. 

We make sponges. 

We retreat from the nose 2-3 rows of SC down and dense raspberry thread embroider sponge. First we embroider the contour of the lips, then horizontal with stitches we fill the space inside the embroidered contour, apply the technique stitch embroidery. 

We make ears. 

We count from the top of the 15 rows of SC down and in the middle of the head on the sides embroider the contour of the ear with a chain stitch (see photo). The thread is not cut, but for we knit the resulting loops SC, so we get ears. 

HAIR 

Marking and preparation of hair. 

For convenience, we first make markings on the head, designate the future “line hair growth. ”To do this, take the brown threads“ Iris ”or“ Mouline thread ”and embroider “hairline” with large stitches (see photo). 

We make the preparation of the hair itself from blue bookled yarn (I used karakul-stretch Kamteks). Take a book 20 cm high, wrap 

its height in threads, then with scissors we cut the threads from one edge (see photo). It turns out hairs about 35 cm long (if it astrakhan stretch). 

Note! We prepare hair as needed so as not to spoil extra strings. 

Hair fastening. 

We fasten the hair to the head like a fringe: holding the hook in the direction “from the crown”, we introduce it under SC, we catch the hair folded in half, pull out the loop, we pass the ends of the hair into the drawn loop, tighten. Thus fasten the hair first along the contour of the “hairline”, then fill everything the space inside these lines (see photo). If you have strings of astrakhan stretch (they are quite voluminous), then hair should be attached under each SC, but through 2 rows of SC. 

Sew the finished head to the body. 

DRESS 

First, we knit the top of the dress with light blue threads crochet, which selected for basic knitting. 

1 row: we dial 66 CH + 1 CH, from the second from the hook of the loop we knit along chain of CH 66 SC, CH, twist (66) 

2 – 5 row (4 rows): 66 SC, CH, turn (66) 

6 row: (9 SC, DEC) * 6, CH, turn (60) 

7 row: 60 SC, CH, turn (60) 

8 row: (8 SC, DEC) * 6, CH, turn (54) 

9 – 10 row: 54 SC, CH, turn (54) 

11 row: (7 SC, DEC) * 6, CH, turn (48) 

12 – 19 row (8 rows): 48 SC, CH, turn (48) 

20 row: 9 SC, 10 CH, 8 SC skip, 14 SC, 10 CH, 8 SC skip, 9 SC, CH, turn (52) 

21 row: (8 SC, DEC) * 2, (5 SC, DEC) * 2, 8 SC, DEC, 8 SC, CH, turn (47) 

22 row: 7 SC, DEC, (2 SC, DEC) * 2, (3 SC, DEC) * 3, (2 SC, UB SC) * 2, 7 SC, CH, turn (39) 

We don’t cut the blue thread, we continue to tie the top of the dress along the contour: 5 CH (armhole for the button), 17 SL-ST, 5 CH (armhole for the button), SL-ST, go to bottom and knit 66 SC, go to the side and knit 22 SL-ST. 

We fix the thread, cut it off. 

We attach the St. Blue thread to the first SC on the bottom of the upper part of the dress and we knit a skirt. 

1 row: 3 SC, 3 SC in one loop, (5 SC, 3 SC in one loop) * 10, 2 SC, CH, turn (88) 

2 row: 2 CH, 3 DC, 3 DC in one loop (we knit them in the middle loop in triple increase of the previous row), (7 DC, 3 DC in one loop) * 10, 3 DC, CH, turn (110) 

3 row: 2 CH, 4 DC, 3 DC in one loop (we knit them in the middle loop in triple increase of the previous row), (9 DC, 3 DC in one loop) * 10, 4 DC, CH, turn (132) 

4 row: 2 CH, 5 DC, 3 DC in one loop (we knit them in the middle loop in triple increase of the previous row), (11 DC, 3 DC in one loop) * 10, 5 DC, CH, turn (154) 

5 row we knit for FLO (front half loop): 2 CH, 6 DC, 3 DC in one loop (we knit them in the middle loop in the triple increase of the previous row), (13 DC, 3 DC in one loop) * 10, 6 DC (176) 

St. blue thread fasten, cut. 

Attach the light green thread to the first left back loop the previous row and knit the lower shuttlecock. 

1 row: 2 CH, 6 DC, 3 DC in one loop (we knit them in the middle loop in triple increase of the previous row), (13 DC, 3 DC in one loop) * 10, 6 DC, CH, turn (176) 

2 row: 2 CH, 7 DC, 3 DC in one loop (we knit them in the middle loop in triple increase of the previous row), (15 DC, 3 DC in one loop) * 10, 7 DC, CH, turn (198) 

3 row: 2 CH, 8 DC, 3 DC in one loop (we knit them in the middle loop in triple increase of the previous row), (17 DC, 3 DC in one loop) * 10, 8 DC (220) 

We fix the green thread, cut it off. 

Sew on the back of the button on the top of the dress opposite the buttonhole. 

We decorate the dress to your taste (optional). 

We put on a dress on a doll. thirty 

BANDAGE 

We crochet with raspberry threads that you have chosen for the main knitting. 

1 row: we dial 80 CH + 1 CH, from the second from the hook of the loop we knit along a chain of CH 80 SC, CH Turn (80) 

Note! Bandage length can be adjusted according to your head circumference pupae by adding or decreasing the amount of CH in the front row. Try on headband on his chrysalis. 

2 – 5 (4 rows): 80 SC, CH, turn (80) 

We do not cut the thread, continue to bind the bandage along the SL-ST contour, while we knit one edge of 5 CH (armhole for the button). 

We fix the thread, cut it off. 

On the side of the bandage, where they did not make an armhole, we sew the button. 

Bandage decoration (rosette). 

Knit with pink threads. 

1 row: we dial 60 CH + 5 CH, in the 5th from the hook we knit a loop DC, CH skip, in the next loop we knit a combination (DC, CH, DC), CH skip, again we knit a combination of (DC, CH, DC), CH skip … and so to the end of the row, at the end we make a turn. 

2 row: 3 CH, in the first arch we knit a combination (DC, 3 CH, 2 DC), in we knit the next arch (2 DC, 3 CH, 2 DC), in the third arch again (2 DC, 3 CH, 2 DC), … and so on until the end of the row we knit a similar combination into magic ring arch, at the end of the row we make a turn. 

3 row: 3 CH, in the first arch we knit a combination of 8 DC, in the interval between 

with the arches of the previous row we knit SL-ST, in the next arch a combination of 9 DC, between the arches SL-ST, again 9 DC in the arch, SL-ST in the gap between the arches, … and so on until the end of the row. 

Leave the long end of the thread (30 – 35 cm), cut. 

We take the needle and add the resulting workpiece in the first row of CH, after about 3 CH. We tighten the thread as tight as possible, fix. Received turn the harvested workpiece inward, get a rose, fix shape, making several stitches in the center. 

Sew the finished rose onto the bandage. 

We put a bandage on the head of the chrysalis. 

NOW YOUR PUPPET BUTTERFLY IS READY FOR ALL 100% !!! 

The post Butterfly Doll Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

In this article I will share with you amigurumi sweet girl free crochet pattern. We always keep you up-to-date with Amigurumi. 

Abbreviations: 

CH – chain 

SC – single crochet 

İNC – increase 

DEC – decrease 

sl-st- slip-stitch 

PATTERN 

Head. 

Description: 

1.6 sc into magic ring 

2.6 inc (12) 

(inc, sc) * 6 (18) 

(inc, 2 sc) * 6 (24) 

(inc, 3 sc) * 6 (30) 

(inc, 4 sc) * 6 (36) 

(inc, 5 sc) * 6 (42) 

(inc, 6 sc) * 6 (48) 

9-20. 48 sc 

(dec, 6 sc) * 6 (42) 

(dec, 5 sc) * 6 (36) 

(dec, 4 sc) * 6 (30) 

(dec, 3 sc) * 6 (24) 

(dec, 2 sc) * 6 (18) 

(dec, sc) * 6 (12) 

28.12 sc 

29-31. 12 sc. 

Yarn for the head – Iris Gamma. 

Yarn for hair – Pecherka Beaded. 

Hair tinting – dry pastel. 

Eyes are painted on white fabric with acrylic paints, covered with transparent top varnish. 

Pens. 

Handle Description: 

1.6 sc into magic ring 

2.2 inc, 4 sc (8) 

3-4. 8 sc 

5.3 inc, 5 sc (11) 

6-7. 11 sc 

8.sc, 2 dec, 3 sc, dec, sc (8) 

9-19. 8 sc 

3 sc, dec, sc, 2 inc (9) 

21.2 sc, inc, 2 sc, 2 dec (8) 

22-24. 8 sc 

25.2 sc, inc, 5 sc (9) 

26-34. 9 sc 

Leave the loop! Thread cut authentic. 

Legs. 

Description: 

1.9 ch 

starting from the second loop from the hook: 

2.increase, in a row 6 sc, 4 sc in 1p, in a row 6 sc, increase. 

3.increase, in a row 7 sc, increase, increase, increase, in a row 7 sc, increase, increase 

4.26 sc 

56.6 sc, 11 hdc, 9 sc (26) 

6.7 sc, 5 dec, 9 sc (21) 

7.5 sc, 5 dec, 6 sc (16) 

8.2 sc, 5 dec, 4 sc (11) 

9.4 sc, dec, 5 sc (10) 

10-15. 10 sc 

make one increase in the back (11) 

17.11 sc 

make one increase in the back (12) 

19-24. 12 sc 

make rear 2 dec (10) 

26.10 sc 

make 2 increases in front (12) 

28-29. 12 sc30. make 2 dec ahead (10) 

31-33. 10 sc 

make an increase in the back (11) 

35-36. 11 sc 

make one increase in the back (12) 

12 sc 

make one increase in the back (13) 

40-43. 13 sc 

Body. 

Body layout: 

Knit sc on each leg to the middle of the inner thigh. On that leg 

where we cut the thread, just pull this thread without making an extra loop or ss. On that leg, where the thread from the skein is NOT cut, type 6 ch Then make sc in the next from the last loop on the second leg (insert the hook from the inside out when knitting inside out and inside out when knitting face). Next, knit sc in a circle around the leg, then 6 sc on one side of the air chain, then in a circle around the second leg, 6 sc on the second side of the air chain. On this the first row is completed, in a row should be 38 sc (13 + 6 + 13 + 6). Next, we continue knitting. 

2-8. 38 sc 

9.6 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 10 sc (36) 

10.36 sc 

11.6 sc, dec, 17 sc, dec, 8 sc (34) 

12-13. 34 sc 

14.6 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 8 sc (32) 

15-29. 32 sc 

Now we will tie the handles. Attach the handles to the body as you would like they were rotated (stronger inward with the palms, or stronger outward). Last loop the handles should be in the place where the handles are now in contact with the body. If if the position of the loop doesn’t coincide, then tie it to this place, or loose need columns. 

The post Sweet Girl Amigurumi Doll Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

Welcome to our website where you can find the most beautiful and highest quality samples of Amigurumi patterns.

PATTERN NİSA DOLL 

HEAD 

Skin color with rope; 

1) Magic ring =6sc 

2) 6inc =12sc 

3) 1sc,1inc =18sc 

4) 2sc,1inc =24sc 

5) 3sc,1inc =30sc 

6) 4sc,1inc =36sc 

7) 5sc,1inc =42sc 

8) 6sc,1inc =48sc 

9) 7sc,1inc =54sc 

10) 8sc,1inc =60sc 

11)9sc,1inc =66sc 

12- 24) =66sc 

25) 10sc,1inc=72sc 

26)11sc,1inc=78sc 

27-31) =78sc 

32)11sc ,1dec =72sc 

33) 10sc,1dec =66sc 

34) 9sc,1dec =60sc 

35)8sc,1dec=54sc 

36)7sc,1dec=48sc 

37) 6sc,1dec =42sc 

38) 5sc,1dec =36sc 

39) 4sc,1dec =30sc 

40) 3sc,1dec =24sc 

41) 2sc,1dec =18sc 

Let’s leave a long rope to sew. His eyes are 23-24. Let’s put them in rows with 7sc. 

Arms 

Skin color with rope; 

1) Magic ring=6sc 

2) 6inc =12sc 

3)1sc,1inc=18sc 

4-6)=18sc 

7)1sc,1dec=12sc 

8)=12sc 

9-24)=12sc 

Let’s go black. 

25)3sc,1inc=15sc 

26-31)=15sc 

Let’s fold the arm in half and give it a shot. Shoulder. 

Foot and Leg 

1) Pull 11 chains. 

2) 3. Combine 4 dc, 8dc into the loop, 5dc, 8dc into the loop, sl-st = 25dc 

3) Connect 2 chains to sl-st at the end of the previous row with 1dc, 4dcinc, 8dc, 5dcinc, 8dc, sl-st = 35dc 

4) Combine 2 chains with 1dc, (1dcinc, 1dc) * 4,8dc, (1dcinc, 1dc) * 5,9dc to sl-st at the end of the previous row = 45dc 

5) Blo as 46sc = 46sc (we do sc in sl-st in the last row.) 

6-7)=46sc 

8)24sc,4dec,14sc=42sc 

9)21sc,6dec,9sc=36sc 

10)=36sc 

11)18sc,6dec,6sc=30sc 

12)15sc,6dec,3sc=34sc 

13)(2sc,1dec)*6=18sc 

14)11sc,3dec,1sc=15sc 

15-19)=15sc 

20) 12sc, 3inc = 18sc (the increase is at the back of the leg) 

21) Blo 18sc = 18sc 

22) is 18sc 

We’re getting skin color. 

23-43) = 18sc 

We’re on the black rope. 

44-45) = 18sc 

We start the hull. 

46) We connect two legs with 6 chains. 

47-57) = 48sc 

58) Blo 48sc = 48sc 

(There will be skirt part, you can make the skirt by knitting DC to the length you want.) 

59-60)=48sc 

61-67)=48sc 

68)(6sc,1dec)*6=42sc 

69)(5sc,1dec)*6=36sc 

70)=36sc 

71)(4sc,1dec)*6=30sc 

We’re getting skin color. 

72)=30sc 

73)(3sc,1dec)*6=24sc 

74)(2sc,1dec)*6=18sc 

75-78)=18sc 

Let’s keep the rope long to sew. 

The post Amigurumi Doll Nisa Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

Materials 

cotton or semi-cotton yarn in four colors: brown, light pink, dark pink, beige 

hook number 1-1.5 

felting wool (for hairstyle) and a thick needle for felting №36 

brown felt 1 mm thick 

satin ribbons in tone yarn 

openwork elastic for a hat 

filler 

dry pastel (or matte shadows) 

All parts are knitted in a spiral, unless otherwise specified doll in a vintage hat 

Abbreviations 

ch – air loop 

sc – single crochet 

hdc – half crochet 

dc – double crochet 

dtr – four double crochet 

sl-st – connecting column 

One loop increase – knit two columns 

Decrease – we knit two columns together (with a common vertex) 

PATTERN 

Slippers 

We start knitting with a brown thread 

We collect a chain of 12 ch Knit from the second from the loop hook 

1.10 sc, 3 sc in the next loop, 9 sc, 2 sc in the next loop = 24 p 

2.inc, 9 sc, 3 inc, 9 sc, 2 inc = 30 p 

3.1 sc, inc, 9 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 3, 9 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 2 = 36 p 

4. 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, 4 HDC, (2 HDC, 2 HDC in the next loop) * 3, 4 HDC, 5 

sc, (2 sc, inc) * 2 = 42 p 

5.3 sc, inc, 4 sc, 2 HDC, 3 DC, (3 DC, 2 DC to the next loop) * 3, 3 DC, 2 HDC, 4 sc, (3 sc, inc) * 2 = 48 p 

Cut out the insole from the cardboard in the shape of the sole 

6. 48 sc behind the rear hinge walls 

7.8 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 12, 16 sc =60 p 

8.2 dec, 48 sc, 4 dec = 54 p 

9-10. 54 sc 

11.5 sc, (1 sc, dec) * 12, 13 sc =42 p 

Insert cardboard 

12.11 sc, 6 dec, 19 sc = 36 p 

13. 10 sc, attach the light pink thread 9 sc, again brown 17 sc = 36 p 

14.10 sc brown thread, (1sc, dec) * 3 light pink thread, 

17 sc brown thread = 33 p 

15.10 sc brown, 3 dec light pink thread, 17 sc brown = 30 p 

We cut off the light pink thread. Continue knitting with brown thread 

16.30 sc 

17. for the front walls of the loops (2 sl-st, 4 DC to the next loop) * 10. 

We cut the brown thread 

We attach a dark pink thread and knit on the back walls of the 16th row 

18-21. 30 sc 

22. behind the front hinge walls 30 sc 

23.30 sc. Cut the dark pink thread 

Next, we knit a leg. We attach a beige thread 

24. For the rear walls of the loops of the 21st row:(3 sc, dec) * 6 = 24 p 

25.24 sc 

We fill and continue knitting 

26-34. 24 sc 

Cut the thread, tie the second one 

leg 

Foot joint 

35. From the right foot dial 6 ch and attach to the left column without double crochet. Next, we knit in a circle – only 60 sc (we knit a jumper of 6 ch with both sides). The seam should be back 

Keep knitting 

torso 

36. 60 sc 

37. (9 sc, inc) * 6 = 66 p 

38-43. 66 sc 

44. (9 sc, dec) * 6 = 60 p 

45. 60 sc 

46. (8 sc, dec) * 6 = 54 p 

47-48. 54 sc 

49. (7 sc, dec) * 6 = 48 p 

50-52. 48 sc 

53. (6 sc, dec) * 6 = 42 p 

54-57. 42 sc 

58. (5 sc, dec) * 6 = 36 p 

59-62. 36 sc 

Start to fill 

torso 

63. (4 sc, dec) * 6 = 30 p 

64. (3 sc, dec) * 6 = 24 p 

65. (2 sc, dec) * 6 = 18 p 

Fill, cut the thread 

Head 

Knit with a beige thread 

We collect a chain of 10 ch, with the second from the loop hook: 

1. 8 sc, 3 sc in the next loop, 7 sc, 2 sc in the next loop = 20 p 

2.inc, 7 sc, 3 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc = 26 p 

3.1 sc, inc, 7 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 3, 7 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 2 = 32 p 

4.2 sc, inc, 7 sc, (2 sc, inc) * 3, 7 sc, (2 sc, inc) * 2 = 38 p 

5.3 sc, inc, 7 sc, (3 sc, inc) * 3, 7 sc, (3 sc, inc) * 2 = 44 p 

6.4 sc, inc, 7 sc, (4 sc, inc) * 3, 7 sc, (4 sc, inc) * 2 = 50 p 

7.5 sc, inc, 7 sc, (5 sc, inc) * 3, 7 sc, (5 sc, inc) * 2 = 56 p 

8. 6 sc, inc, 7 sc, (6 sc, inc) * 3, 7 sc, (6 sc, inc) * 2 = 62 p 

9.7 sc, inc, 7 sc, (7 sc, inc) * 3, 7 sc, (7 sc, inc) * 2 = 68 p 

10.8 sc, inc, 7 sc, (8 sc, inc) * 3, 7 sc, (8 sc, inc) * 2 = 74 p 

11-19. 74 sc 

20.8 sc, dec, 7 sc, (8 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (8 sc, dec) * 2 = 68 p 

21. 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, (7 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (7 sc, dec) * 2 = 62 p 

22.6 sc, dec, 7 sc, (6 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (6 sc, dec) * 2 = 56 p 

23. 5 sc, dec, 7 sc, (5 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (5 sc, dec) * 2 = 50 p 

24.4 sc, dec, 7 sc, (4 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (4 sc, dec) * 2 = 44 p 

25.3 sc, dec, 7 sc, (3 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (3 sc, dec) * 2 = 38 p 

26.2 sc, dec, 7 sc, (2 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (2 sc, dec) * 2 = 32 p 

27.1 sc, dec, 7 sc, (1 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (1 sc, dec) * 2 = 26 p 

28. dec, 7 sc, 3 dec, 7 sc, 2 dec = 20 p 

29. (8 sc, dec) * 2 = 18 p 

30-33. 18 sc 

Leave the thread for sewing to the body 

Pens 

We start knitting with a light pink thread 

1.6 sc into magic ring 

2.6 inc – 12 p 

3.12 sc 

4. (3 sc, inc) * 3 – 15 p 

5-7. 15 sc 

8.5 hdc in the first loop, knitted together, 14 sc – 15 p 

9. (3 sc, dec) * 3 – 12 p 

10-14. 12 sc 

15.12 sc behind the front hinge walls 

16. (3 sc, inc) * 3 – 15 p 

We fix the pink thread, cut it off. We attach a flesh-colored thread for 

14th row rear walls 

17-33. 12 sc 

We insert the wire, bending the ends, we knit 5 sc through. 

Leave the thread for sewing to the body 

We knit the second handle 

Dress 

Knit with a brown thread 

We collect a chain of 30 ch + 1 ch rise. We knit in rotary rows. IN at the beginning of each row we gain 1 ch rise 

1. 30 sc 

2. (4 sc, inc) * 6 = 36 p 

3.36 sc 

4. (5 sc, inc) * 6 = 42 p 

5. (6 sc, inc) * 6 = 48 p 

6. behind the rear hinge walls: 48 sc 

7. (7 sc, inc) * 6 = 54 p 

8. (2 sc, 4 DC the next loop) * 18 – 18 fans. 

We cut the thread 

We attach the thread to the loops of the 6th row: 

9.48 sc 

10.8 sc, 12 ch – 6 sc skip, 20 sc, 12 ch – 6 sc skip, 8 sc = 60 p 

11-19. 60 sc 

20. behind the front hinge walls: 60 sc 

Next we knit in a circle 

21. (4 HDC, 2 HDC in the next loop) * 12 = 72 HDC 

22. (5 HDC, 2 HDC in the next loop) * 12 = 84 HDC 

23. (6 HDC, 2 HDC in the next loop) * 12 = 96 HDC 

24. (7 HDC, 2 HDC in the next loop) * 12 = 108 HDC 

25. (8 HDC, 2 HDC in the next loop) * 12 = 120 HDC 

26-28. 120 HDC 

Attach a dark pink thread, brown until we cut 

29. 120 HDC 

30. brown thread: 120 HDC 

Cut the brown and dark pink thread 

31. attach the light pink thread, turn the knitting over and knit counterclockwise so that the wrong side is on the front side: 120 sc 

32. (3 sc, 4 DC) * 30 – total 30 fans 

With a light pink thread, we knit 60 sc for the free walls of the loops 

19th row. 

Dress the doll, sew the button on the back of the dress, so that it does not diverge 

Now you can sew the pens and head. Glova pre-strengthen 

Getting started hairstyle 

From felting wool we stretch this shape and braid it. 

Pass the tip of the pigtail with a needle for felting 

We roll to the head, carefully passing the needle along the contours 

From the back we twist the wool inward and fasten it with a needle 

If bald patches are obtained, add strips of wool. Then we form 

bangs. We put a strip along the contour of the hair and roll it 

We knit two small bows to decorate the head: 5 ch short into magic ring, 3 ch lift, 4 dc, 1 sl-st, 3 ch, 4 dc, 1 sl-st. Pull the bow in the middle with a thread sew to the head, as in the photo 

We embroider eyes with black sewing thread. You can use the floss. Dry with pink pastel, apply eye shadow and draw blush 

Create a chrysalis outfit 

The pattern for the coat is first best done on paper, then transferred to felt. Round the edges of the product 

Then we process the edge with pink sewing thread (only decorative function). You can do it manually or on a typewriter. 

So that the cloak does not diverge on the doll, we strongly iron the left and right shelves 

Hat 

9.7 sc, inc, 7 sc, (7 sc, inc) * 3, 7 sc, (7 sc, inc) * 2 = 68 p 

10.8 sc, inc, 7 sc, (8 sc, inc) * 3, 7 sc, (8 sc, inc) * 2 = 74 p 

11-19. 74 sc 

20.8 sc, dec, 7 sc, (8 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (8 sc, dec) * 2 = 68 p 

21. 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, (7 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (7 sc, dec) * 2 = 62 p 

22.6 sc, dec, 7 sc, (6 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (6 sc, dec) * 2 = 56 p 

23. 5 sc, dec, 7 sc, (5 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (5 sc, dec) * 2 = 50 p 

24.4 sc, dec, 7 sc, (4 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (4 sc, dec) * 2 = 44 p 

25.3 sc, dec, 7 sc, (3 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (3 sc, dec) * 2 = 38 p 

26.2 sc, dec, 7 sc, (2 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (2 sc, dec) * 2 = 32 p 

27.1 sc, dec, 7 sc, (1 sc, dec) * 3, 7 sc, (1 sc, dec) * 2 = 26 p 

28. dec, 7 sc, 3 dec, 7 sc, 2 dec = 20 p 

29. (8 sc, dec) * 2 = 18 p 

30-33. 18 sc 

Leave the thread for sewing to the body 

Pens 

We start knitting with a light pink thread 

1.6 sc into magic ring 

2.6 inc – 12 p 

3.12 sc 

4. (3 sc, inc) * 3 – 15 p 

5-7. 15 sc 

8.5 hdc in the first loop, knitted together, 14 sc – 15 p 

9. (3 sc, dec) * 3 – 12 p 

10-14. 12 sc 

15.12 sc behind the front hinge walls 

16. (3 sc, inc) * 3 – 15 p 

We fix the pink thread, cut it off. We attach a flesh-colored thread for 

14th row rear walls 

17-33. 12 sc 

We insert the wire, bending the ends, we knit 5 sc through. 

Leave the thread for sewing to the body 

We knit the second handle 

Dress 

Knit with a brown thread 

We collect a chain of 30 ch + 1 ch rise. We knit in rotary rows. IN at the beginning of each row we gain 1 ch rise 

1. 30 sc 

2. (4 sc, inc) * 6 = 36 p 

3.36 sc 

4. (5 sc, inc) * 6 = 42 p 

5. (6 sc, inc) * 6 = 48 p 

6. behind the rear hinge walls: 48 sc 

7. (7 sc, inc) * 6 = 54 p 

8. (2 sc, 4 DC the next 

loop) * 18 – 18 fans. 

We cut the thread 

We attach the thread to the loops of the 6th row: 

9.48 sc 

10.8 sc, 12 ch – 6 sc skip, 20 sc, 12 ch – 6 sc skip, 8 sc = 60 p 

11-19. 60 sc 

20. behind the front hinge walls: 60 sc 

Next we knit in a circle 

21. (4 HDC, 2 HDC in the next loop) * 12 = 72 HDC 

22. (5 HDC, 2 HDC in the next loop) * 12 = 84 HDC 

23. (6 HDC, 2 HDC in the next loop) * 12 = 96 HDC 

24. (7 HDC, 2 HDC in the next loop) * 12 = 108 HDC 

25. (8 HDC, 2 HDC in the next loop) * 12 = 120 HDC 

26-28. 120 HDC 

Attach a dark pink thread, brown until we cut 

29. 120 HDC 

30. brown thread: 120 HDC 

Cut the brown and dark pink thread 

31. attach the light pink thread, turn the knitting over and knit counterclockwise so that the wrong side is on the front side: 120 sc 

32. (3 sc, 4 DC) * 30 – total 30 fans 

With a light pink thread, we knit 60 sc for the free walls of the loops 19th row. 

Dress the doll, sew the button on the back of the dress, so that it does not diverge 

Now you can sew the pens and head. Glova pre-strengthen 

Getting started hairstyle 

From felting wool we stretch this shape and braid it. 

Pass the tip of the pigtail with a needle for felting 

We roll to the head, carefully passing the needle along the contours 

From the back we twist the wool inward and fasten it with a needle 

If bald patches are obtained, add strips of wool. Then we form bangs. We put a strip along the contour of the hair and roll it 

We knit two small bows to decorate the head: 5 ch short into magic ring, 3 ch lift, 4 dc, 1 sl-st, 3 ch, 4 dc, 1 sl-st. Pull the bow in the middle with a thread sew to the head, as in the photo 

We embroider eyes with black sewing thread. You can use the floss. Dry with pink pastel, apply eye shadow and draw blush 

Create a chrysalis outfit 

The pattern for the coat is first best done on paper, then transferred to felt. Round the edges of the product 

Then we process the edge with pink sewing thread (only decorative function). You can do it manually or on a typewriter. 

So that the cloak does not diverge on the doll, we strongly iron the left and right shelves.

The post Amigurumi Doll Kukolka Free Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

I spread the little scheme here such, not at all difficult in the performance of my author’s kid. 

Materials and tools we need: 

Yarn Jeans from Yarn Art (55% cotton, 45% polyacryl, 160 m in 50 g) pens, for the face, pens and legs. 

Yarn Jeans from Yarn Art or Alize Coton Gold (55% cotton and 45% acrylic, 330 m per 100 g), three different body colors, a little. 

Begonia yarn from Yarn Art (100% cotton, 170 m in 50 g), for hair, I still choose the color, for the eyes and for the design of the face there is the same thread. Eyebrows, eyelashes, mouth – I also use the Soso thread from Vita sometimes for this purpose, here I look which thread is more suitable. 

Yarn for a skirt, it is at your discretion, I knit either from Begonia, then from Soso, then from any other not thick thread that is at hand suitable in color. 

Sintepuh. 

Buttons 3pcs. – small, about 1 cm in diameter. 

Two needles, larger and smaller for convenience. 

Two hooks 1.75 mm (2 mm possible) and 2.5 mm (this one for knitting clothes). 

Tweezers and a wooden stick (from sushi) for stuffing toys. 

Oil paints for cheeks. 

Scissors. 

Abbreviations : 

Sc – single crochet. 

Ch – chain. 

Dc – double crochet. 

Hdc – half double crochet. 

Sl-st – slip stitch (Also called half-crochet) 

Increase – 2sc in one loop of the previous row. 

Decrease – 2sc knitted together. 

Head 

1 row: We collect 2ch into the second loop from the hook, we knit 6sc – this is the first row. Next, we knit, not closing in a circle, adding 6sc in each row 

2 row: Increase in each sc of the previous row. = 12 sc 

3 row: increase in each 2sc = 18sc 

4 row: increase in each 3sc = 24sc 

5 row: increase in each 4sc = 30sc 

6 row: increase in each 5sc = 36sc 

7 row: increase in each 6sc = 42sc 

8 row: increase in each 7sc = 48sc 

9 row: increase in each 8sc = 54sc 

From 10 to 28 rows, inclusive (19 rows), we knit directly to 54sc in a row. 

We will postpone our head and tie our eyes! 

Eyes (Begonia thread) 

1 row: With black thread, we put 2ch into the second loop from the hook, we knit 6 sc 

2 row: Blue, green, or brown thread. The increase in each sc of the previous row. = 12 sc 

3 row: White thread, increase in each 2sc = 18sc 

4th row: All this same white thread, we knit a row to the middle, three increases are obtained, and not six, on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd increase of the previous row. We cut off leaving a long tip for sewing the eye and embroidering glare on it !!!! In the same way, we knit the second eye, and at the back we carefully knit all the threads we do not need and cut them off. 

Sew our eyes, next to each other between 14 and 20 rows, counting from above. And with the same threads we embroider glare. 

Keep knitting 

29 row: We begin to make a decrease, 6 sc in each row, in this every 7sc, the previous row = 48sc 

30 row: There are also 6 decreases in a row, every 6sc, of the previous row. = 42sc 

From the 31st to the 34th row, (4 rows), we make 6 decreases, exactly the same. = 18sc 

And we begin to fill our heads with syntepuh. I stuff the toys very tightly! 

35 and 36 row, do exactly the same for 6 decreases in a row. 

Having completed the head and having checked everything, we close the knitting. 

I do it like that. 

When we have 6sc left, we cut and pull the thread out of the loop. Using this hooked thread, we hook each loop of the previous row and simply pull all 6 loops into a small circle, use a needle to fasten with a knot and hide the tip of the thread in a toy. 

Nose 

1 row: We collect 2ch into the second loop from the hook, we knit 6 sc 

2nd row: We make four increases in a row, on the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th loops of the previous row. = 10sc 

3 and 4 row: We knit directly in 10sc 

Cut, leaving the thread for sewing. We sew the nose under the eyes, and in the process we fill it with syntepuhe with tweezers. 

EMBROIDER THE MOUTH, BROWS AND EYELASHES, with Begonia thread, or Soso, introducing the thread from the neck, carefully so that we can hide all this with the sewn neck! 

Ears 

1 row: We collect 2ch into the second loop from the hook, we knit 6 sc 

2 row: We knit five increases in a row, and deploy knitting. = 10sc + 1 loop from the bottom will be. 

3 row: We do 1ch-raising, and we knit: 2sc, increase, 2sc, increase, 2sc, increase, 1sc, unfold the knitting. = 13sc + 1 loop from the bottom. 

4 row: Do 1ch-lift and knit 13sc 

Cut, leaving the thread for sewing. In the same way we knit the second eye. 

Sew on the ears. 

Hair: Begonia thread. 

From the very beginning of head knitting we hook the thread and dial 21ch (one of which will be for lifting); and skipping one – the lifting loop, we knit in the opposite direction 20sc, then we knit 2sc on the head; we dial again 21ch, knit in the opposite direction (skipping one loop) 20sc, and on the head 2sc, again 21c.p, in the opposite direction 20sc, and 2sc on the head. 

And so we knit four to five rows of the head. We cut and hide the threads. 

Oil paints carefully draw cheeks! 

Body (yarn jeans) 

First color: 

1 row: We collect 2ch into the second loop from the hook, we knit 6sc – this is the first row. Next, we knit without closing in a circle, adding 6sc in each row 

2 row: Increase in each sc of the previous row. = 12 sc 

3 row: increase in each 2sc = 18sc 

4 row: increase in each 3sc = 24sc 

5 row: increase in each 4sc = 30sc 

6 – 7 row: We knit directly 30sc in a row. 

8 row: Increases in each 5sc = 36sc 

9 row: We knit directly 36sc in a row, cut the first thread. 

Sew the body to the neck between 5 and 6 next to the body. 

10 row: Change the thread, I have it white, generally every four rows I change the thread, alternating! We make an increase in every 6th sc = 42sc 

11 row: Knit straight 42sc 

12 row: We make increments in each 7sc = 48sc 

13 row: We knit directly 48sc Change the thread !!! 

From the 14th to the 25th row, inclusive, (another 12 rows), we knit, making an increase through the row and changing colors, as expected. = 84sc 

From 26 to 45 rows (20 rows), we knit directly in 84sc, changing colors every four rows. 

46 row: Divide the body into legs, everything by eye, so that it is exactly 42sc 

And we knit from 46 to 61 rows, (16 rows), with decreases on the sides, (2 decreases in a row), through a row, we begin to decrease from 46 rows, also remembering to change the thread color, in four rows! 

Starting to knit the second leg, I fill the body with a synthetic pad, tightly, while it is comfortable, and I tie the second leg. 

We also tie the second leg, leaving the thread for sewing. 

Handles and legs 

Foot: 

We collect 6v.p, one of which is for lifting. And we knit in the opposite direction, starting from the second loop from the hook! 

1 row: We knit 4sc; 5sc in one loop; 3sc; 4sc, in one loop. = 16sc 

2 row: 5sc; three increases; 5sc; three increases. = 22sc 

3 row: 5sc; increase; 1sc; increase; 1sc; increase, 6sc; increase; 1sc; increase; 1sc; increase; 1sc = 28sc 

4 row: 6sc; increase; 2sc; increase; 2sc; increase; 7sc; increase; 2sc; increase; 2sc; increase; 1sc = 34sc 

5 row: 7sc; increase; 3sc; increase; 3sc; increase; 8sc ,; increase; 3sc; increase; 3sc; increase; 1sc = 40sc 

From 6 to 11 rows, (6 rows), we knit directly in 40sc in a row. 

From the 12th row, we make reductions in the area of the sock, by eye. In the figure above, the arrow shows which side we will have the sock on! There are 7 decreases in this row, in the area of the sock through 1sc = 33sc 

13 row: In the same place, 8 decreases in a row, NOT skipping sc = 25sc 

14 row: There are 3 decreases, after 1sc = 22 sc And cut the thread in the heel area and tie it and hide it. We knit the second foot in the same way. 

Filling the feet and legs with sintepuh, we sew them with the thread remaining at the legs, directly over the edge, and gradually sewing them, we fill the legs and feet with tweezers to the end, tightly! 

And since there are more loops in the leg along the edge than in the foot, I sew three times, 2 stitches from the leg into one on the foot. It’s easier for me to align my foot. I hope I explain it clearly. 

Pens 

1 row: We collect 2ch into the second loop from the hook, we knit 6sc 

2 row: Increase in each sc of the previous row. = 12 sc 

3 row: Two increases in a row. (Increase, 5sc, increase, 5sc) = 14sc 

4th and 5th row, we make 2 increments in each row, in the same places as in the previous one. = 18sc 

From 6 to 12 rows, (7 rows), we knit directly in 18sc 

13th and 14th row, make 4 decreases in each row, approximately uniformly. = 10sc Change the thread to a colored one. The photo below shows the order of colors, also in four rows. 

From the 15th to the 22nd row, (8 rows), we knit with two increases in a row, from the sides, where there were increases on the palm. = 26sc 

Fill your palm with syntepuha. 

From 23 to 34 rows, (12 rows), we knit directly, 26sc in a row. 

35 row: Two decreases in a row on the sides, where there were increases, approximately. = 24sc 

36 row: Knit straight. 

37 row: Two decreases in a row there. = 22sc 

38 row: Knit straight. 

We cut it off, leaving the thread for sewing on the handle, and fill the handle with synthetic padding, not very tight. 

Knit a finger: 

1 row: We collect 2ch into the second loop from the hook, we knit 6sc 

2 row: We make three increases in a row, through 1sc = 9sc 

3 and 4 row, we knit directly on 9sc in a row. We trim leaving a thread for sewing. 

Sew the finger from the side so that the seam of the handle looks back, this is for beauty :), and, sewing it a little, we fill it with syntepuh. In the same way we knit the second handle. 

We sew the handles on one row, a little, again, I sew several loops from the handle into one loop on the body. 

Sew buttons neatly. 

Skirt 

I got the right yarn (MILK COTTONE 45% – cotton 15% – silk 40% – acrylic 50g / 150m) 

And the size you need to look at the volume of your baby doll. 

We knit the chain from ch exactly to the circumference of the small doll, hook 2.5mm, No. 4.0, I have 90 loops, we connect the sl-st chain to the other end, and knit in a circle. 

1 and 2 rows: 2ch for lifting, this is the first hdc, and 89hdc 

3rd row: Here also depending on which skirt you want, magnificent, then we make an increase in 1 hdc, less magnificent in 2hdc. And this row is knitted already DC and also in this row, 3ch for lifting is the first dc 

4, 5 and 6 row, we knit directly dc, without any increase. 

7 row, the hem is beautiful, we select any pattern, we customize it according to the number of loops, everything from the first sketch has perfectly laid down, (last rows, on the diagrams!) 

We cut, hide the thread, make the straps, try on the skirt, seam back, and we hook the thread in the place you want, and we knit 3 hdc, turn the knit, 1ch to raise, and 3hdc And so, trying on, we knit the length we need straps and sew the same thread on the other side with the same thread, and in the same way we knit the second strap. We hide all the threads. The skirt is ready. 

Dress our baby and admire. I hope everything turned out even better than mine, and I clearly wrote everything, if anything, ask! Thanks:) 

Convincing request: 

Do not distribute on the Internet my description and photos of this baby! I hope for your understanding! 

You can sell the toy, but preferably indicating me as the author of the scheme and only with your own photos! 

Thank you in advance  

You can always ask me if something is not clear, I will tell you. Or tell me, maybe I’m missing something. Also I’m waiting for your little pictures of ready-made little babies, I wonder very much  

Enjoy all knitting and smooth loops. And have a nice chat with all of us! 

The post Amigurumi Fat Doll Free Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

I wanted to share my Amigurumi baby knitting recipes with you. A wonderful amigurumi crochet doll model is waiting for you. 

Abbreviations 

mr: magic ring 

sc: Single crochet 

inc: increase 

dec: decrease 

FLO: Knitting from the front loop 

BLO: Knitting from the back loop 

sl-st: slip-stitch 

Materials 

skin rope 

2 color rope for dress (light pink, dark pink etc) 

6 mm safe eye 

thin lace for skirt 

fiber 

2.00 mm crochet hook 

scissors 

sewing needle 

small button 

Amigurumi baby making 

HEAD 

1) magic ring into 6sc 

2) 6inc = 12sc 

3) 1sc 1inc (6 times) = 18sc 

4) 2sc 1inc (6 times) = 24sc 

5) 3sc 1inc (6 times) = 30sc 

6) 4sc 1inc (6 times) = 36sc 

7) 5sc 1inc (6 times) = 42sc 

8) 6sc 1inc (6 times) = 48sc 

9–15) = 48sc 

16) 6sc 1dec (6 times) = 42sc 

17) 42sc 

18) 5sc 1dec (6 times) = 36 

19) 4sc 1dec (6 times) = 30sc 

20) 3sc 1dec (6 times) = 24sc 

21) 2sc 1dec (6 times) = 18sc 

22) 1sc 1dec (6 times) = 12sc 

23) 6dec = 6sc finish and close. 

Note: The eyes will be fitted with a 9 sc distance between the 12th and 13th rows. 

Let’s do the eye and mouth processing, the desired length of hair transplantation process. 

Handles (2) 

1) magic ring into 7sc 

2-5) 7 sc 

6) 2sc 1dec, 1sc 1dec = 5sc 

7 -8) 5sc 

9) 2sc 1inc, 2sc = 6sc 

10-11) 6sc 

After this queue, the end of each sequence will end with scrolling the loop. 

12-13) 5sc 1sl-st = 6sc 

We change to dress color. (Until this ordinary finish, two rows of dark and two rows of light colors will be made) 

14-25) 6sc between rows 

Foot and legs (2) 

1) Magic ring into 7sc 

2-35) 7sc 

36) 1inc 6sc = 8sc 

37-38) 8sc 

39) 1inc 7sc = 9sc 

40-41) 9sc 

two pieces of knitting 2 continue without cutting the rope leg. 

42) Assemble by pulling 3 chains, 9sc from the 1st leg, 3sc on the chain, 9sc from the 2nd leg, 3sc = 24 sc on the chain 

We continue through the hull. 

BODY 

1) 5sc 1inc (6 times) = 28sc 

2) 28sc 

3) 5sc 1inc, 13sc 1inc = 30sc 

4–6) 30sc 

After this ordinary, each row will end with a slip-stitch. 

7-8) = 30sc 

We change to dress color. (Until this ordinary finish, two rows of dark and two rows of light colors will be made) 

9) 30 sc with BLO 

10) 6sc 1dec, 13sc 1dec, 6sc = 28sc 

11-20) 28sc 

We are starting to connect the arms. 

21) 7sc body, with 2sc arms, 12sc body, with 2sc arms, 4sc 

22) From 7sc body, 4sc arm, 12sc body, 4sc arm, 5sc body = 32x 

23) 32sc 

24) 4sc 1dec, (5sc1dec, 3 times) 5sc = 28sc 

25) 2sc, (1dec 2sc, 4 times), 4sc = 24sc 

26) 2sc 1dec (6 times), = 18sc 

27) 1sc, 8dec, 1sc = 10sc 

28) 10sc 

skin color. 

29) With BLO, 1dec, 1sc, 2dec, 1sc, 1dec = 6sc 

30-31) Let’s leave long rope to sew 6sc 

Let’s sew by adjusting the head we planted. 

SKIRT CONSTRUCTION 

Let’s put a dark rope on the waist. 

1) Let’s make a double double crochet on each loop. 

2) 60 Half Double Crochet 

3) 9 Half Double Crochet 1 Double Crochet (6 times) = 66 

4–6) 60 

7) 10 Half Double Crochet, 1 Double Crochet (6 times) = 72 

8-9) 72 

10) 11 Half Double Crochet, 1 double crochet (6 times) = 78 

finish and cut the rope 

SHOES (2) 

1) Pull the 4th chain, starting from the second 2sc, 1inc, (2 times) = 8sc 

2) 1inc, 1sc, 2inc, 3sc, 1inc = 12sc 

3) 12sc WITH BLO 

4) 3sc, 3dec, 3sc = 9sc 

5) 2sc 1 chain, go back and skip 1 stitch, 3sc, 1 chain go back and skip 1 stitch 2sc, 

We’re making a 15sc completely through it. Let’s pull 6 chains and put them across the shoe. 

HAIR BAND 

We’re doing 56 sc by pulling 57 chains. 6 chain pulling (this will be the buttonhole place) turn 56sc and finish. sew the button on the opposite side of the buttonhole and attach it to the hair. 

BOW 

10 chains with 3 rows of half double crochet and tie the middle of the headband rope sewing. 

The post Amigurumi Sweet Baby Doll Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

Materials:

Body thread. I have Alize Cotton Gold white.

Hook. 1.75mm under my thread

Filler sintepon / synthetic winterizer

Eyes

Mouline for face embroidery

Needle with large eye for assembly.

Yarn for a sweater if you wear it like me. Acrylic Snowball Gonka has 300m/100g

Sock knitting needles 5 pcs.

2 large needles.

Required skills: crochet in a spiral. The main elements are a single crochet, an increase, an invisible decrease, joining parts, a secret stitch, a simple embroidery. Knitting experience on 5 knitting needles in a circle face, reverse loops, cross crochet.

Legs – tie 2. First leave a thread of about 15-20 cm. Do not break the second thread. Items while knitting.

1r. 6x in amigurumi ring

2r. 6pr (12)

3-23r. 12x in a circle.

After that, we pass the thread from the first leg to the needle and sew 2 loops of one leg with 2 loops of the other. This will be the connection between the legs. Then we knit the body in a circle.

There should be 10 loops on one leg and 10 loops on the second, so there will be 20 loops in the first row of the body.

Body

1-17r. 20 sc in a circle.

18r. * 3 sc, spacing * 4 times (16)

19r. * 2 sc, spacing * 4 times (12)

20 rub. *4 sc, spacing* 2 times (10)

Head

1r. 5x in the amigurumi ring

2r. 5pr (10)

3r. *1x, plus* 5 times (15)

4r. *2x, increase* 5 times (20)

5r. *3x, plus* 5 times (25)

6r. *4x, increase* 5 times (30)

7r. * 5 sc, increment * 5 times (35)

8r. * 6x, plus * 5 times (40)

9-13 p. 40 sc in a circle

14r. *6x, break* 5 times (35)

15 rubles *3x, call* 7 times (28)

16r. *2x, interval* 7 times (21)

17r. *sk, call* 7 times (14)

18r. * sc, dec, 2 sc, dec * 2 times (10)

Stuff the head tightly and sew it to the body.

pencils

1r. 5x in the amigurumi ring

2r. 5pr (10)

3-22r. 10 sc in a circle.

We fill the handles in the process of knitting – only at the very bottom, so to speak, “cam”, sew to the body at shoulder level, not too low (!).

Ears.

1r. 5x in the amigurumi ring

2r. 5pr (10)

3r. *1x, plus* 5 times (15)

4-8r. 15 sc in a circle

9r. *3x, interval* 3 times (12)

10 rub. 12 sc in a circle

11r. *2x, interval* 3 times (9)

9 sc in a circle of 12 rubles

When sewing, fold the ears with a “boat” so that they have a concave shape, do not stuff it.

Shape the face after assembly. Embroider the nose with a pink floss, sew on the eyes – beads. Naturally, you are free to design your toy at your discretion))

Tail

1r. 5x in the amigurumi ring

2r. 5pr(10)

3r. 10x

4r. 5ub (5).

And the last step is the sweater. I think everyone understands that I do not limit you in any way in choosing clothes for your bunny, so I write only for those who choose such a sweater. I’m not an expert in knitting, so I’ll explain as best I can. If something is unclear, ask again.

Let’s start with knitting needles and threads. To knit in a circle, we will need 5 knitting needles and 2 large needles for sleeves.

First we knit a pattern. We measure how many loops are in 1 cm. Then we measure the circumference of the rabbit’s head and multiply by the number of loops in 1 cm. Round the number so that it is divided by 4, this is necessary to distribute the loops on the sleeves for the front, back and raglan.

I knitted 100g / 300m with number 2 acrylic yarn. I have 32 loops and shown in the picture how I distribute it. 10p output. front and back and 4p. + 4 raglan loops on sleeves.

If you want to knit a blouse with buttons or just a jacket, then such clothes can be knit not circular, but with ordinary knitting needles! It is recommended to buy knitting needles with fishing line to try, otherwise you will not be able to try on the sleeves correctly. To do this, add one more edge loop on either side of the shelf. The drawing is attached. One more note! Then you will knit everything the same way, but not in a circle, you turn the knitting each time, so the front row and the wrong side will alternate. In this case, a high collar will not look very good.

Pull over.

We calculated that 32p output. Stream in 32p. We distribute them on 4 knitting needles. 10+6+10+6.

Next, we knit the collar to the desired height with facial loops. I knit it so that it curves slightly outward.

When we reach the shoulders, we begin to make increases.

Cross thread – twist the thread in an arc and turn it clockwise. We put the resulting loop on the knitting needle.

You can also do normal rope, but I will leave holes. So if openwork is acceptable for your idea, please)

1r. 10 plain, 1 yarn, 1 plain, 1 yarn 4 plain, 1 yarn, 1 yarn, 1 yarn, 10 plain, 1 yarn, 1 plain, 1 yarn, 4 plain, 1 yarn, 1 plain, 1 yarn.

2r. whole face.

3r. 11 plain, yarn over, 1 plain, yarn over, 6 plain, yarn over, 1 plain, yarn over, 12 plain, yarn over, 1 plain, yarn over, 6 plain, yarn over, 1 plain, yarn over, 1 plain .

4r. whole face.

And so we continue to add 8 loops in each row before and after the raglan loop until we reach the armpit.

At this stage, you need to distribute the loops so that the knitting begins and ends with a raglan loop on the 2nd and 4th knitting needles (sleeves). All other loops are front and back. Now we need to put the loops of the arms on a needle and leave them alone for now. We will return to them.

The remaining loops are distributed on 4 needles and continue to knit the face in a circle. To the desired length, I knitted the reverse row at the bottom so that the bottom part would not be bent.

Loops to close the thread cut.

We return to the arms. We knit each arm separately. slip the stitches back onto the needles. Since the number of loops is small, you can distribute it on 3 needles. Each sleeve had 12 loops. Here, exactly instead of the armpit, I removed an additional loop so that there were no holes when fastening. 13p is out. Similarly, we knit the faces to the desired length, if desired – the last row. Close the loops, cut the thread. In the same way, knit a symmetrical second sleeve.

Process the threads. and dress up our baby.

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