The Amigurumi Gingerbread Doll is a festive and charming crochet project inspired by classic Christmas gingerbread cookies. This free crochet pattern features simple shaping, clear instructions, and adorable details, making it suitable for beginners and intermediate crocheters. With its compact size, this gingerbread amigurumi is perfect for holiday decorations, handmade gifts, or even as a safe rattle when securely assembled for babies over 8 months old.

About the Pattern

This pattern can be used as a decorative amigurumi or as a toy.
If made securely (with tight stitches and well-attached parts), it can also be used as a safe rattle for babies over 8 months old.

• Finished size: approx. 12.5 cm tall
• Hook size: 2.2 mm
• You may use any yarn and hook size you prefer (size may vary)

Materials

• Yarn (main color: brown/almond, plus white, green, red, pink as needed)
• Crochet hook 2.2 mm
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Sewing needle
• Safety eyes 12 mm (optional, or embroider eyes)

Abbreviations

• mr – magic ring
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase
• dec – decrease
• hdc – half double crochet
• sl st – slip stitch
• BLO – back loops only

PATTERN

Body & Legs (Make 2 Pieces)

Work in continuous rounds.

1: 6 sc in mr (6)
2: inc × 6 (12)
3: sc in all 12 st (12)
4: sc in all 12 st – change to white
5–8: 4 rounds of sc (12)

Fasten off the first piece.
Do not fasten off the second piece – we will join the legs.

Joining the Legs

9: sc across first leg (12), 3 sc in chains, sc across second leg (12), 3 sc in chains (30)
Mark this round as the new beginning of the round.

10–11: sc in all 30 st (30)
12: sc in all 30 st – change to white
13–19: 7 rounds of sc (30) – change back to brown/almond
20: (3 sc, dec) × 6 (24)
21: (2 sc, dec) × 6 (18)

Upper Body & Head

22: BLO, sc in all 18 st (18)
23: Using the front loops left from Round 21: (1 sc, inc) × 9 (27)
24: (2 sc, inc) × 9 (36)
25: (5 sc, inc) × 6 (42)
26–33: 8 rounds of sc (42)

Insert 12 mm safety eyes between Rounds 28–29, with 7 sc between them.

34: (5 sc, dec) × 6 (36)
35: (4 sc, dec) × 6 (30)
36: (3 sc, dec) × 6 (24)
37: (2 sc, dec) × 6 (18)
38: (1 sc, dec) × 6 (12)

Stuff firmly.

39: dec × 6 (6)
Fasten off and close the opening.

Feet (Make 2)

1: 5 sc in mr (5)
2: inc × 5 (10)
3–4: sc in all 10 st (10)
5: sc in all 10 st
6–10: 5 rounds of sc (10)
11: dec × 5, close the piece

Buttons (Make 2)

Make one green and one red piece.

1: 6 sc in mr
Fasten off and sew to the center of the body.

Back Detail (Almond Area)

Between Rounds 10–19, tightly wrap matching yarn around the center of the back to create the almond detail.

Arms (Make 2 – Pink or Rose)

Ch 25, turn and work from the 2nd ch:

(pbx, 10 hdc, 2 sl st, 10 hdc, sl st, ch 1, turn) × 2

Then:
Ch 12, return with:
5 sc, sl st, 5 sc

Cheeks

1: 6 sc in mr
Fasten off.
Sew one on each side of the face.

Assembly

• Sew feet to the legs
• Sew arms to the sides of the body
• Attach buttons
• Embroider facial details if not using safety eyes

Congratulations! Your amigurumi gingerbread doll is finished.

The post Amigurumi Gingerbread Free Pattern – Crochet Tutorial appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

The Christmas Seal Amigurumi is a festive and adorable crochet project, perfect for the holiday season. Featuring a cute seal with a cozy striped hat, this free crochet tutorial is designed for confident beginners and intermediate crocheters. With clear, step-by-step instructions and a compact finished size, this amigurumi makes a great handmade Christmas decoration, gift, or winter-themed collectible.

Abbreviations

• R – round
• mr – magic ring
• st – stitch
• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase
• dec – decrease
• slst – slip stitch
• BO – bobble stitch (5 dc together)

Materials

• Yarn: YarnArt Jeans (cotton)
• Hook: 2.0 mm
• Safety eyes: 6.0 mm
• Stitch markers
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Pins (optional)

Finished Size

Using the suggested yarn, the finished seal will measure approximately
7.6 cm / 3.0 in long (excluding the hat).

Head & Body

Use white yarn. Work in continuous rounds.

1: mr, 8 sc (8)
2: inc in all 8 st (16)
3: (sc, inc) × 8 (24)
4: (3 sc, inc) × 6 (30)
5–8: (4 rounds) sc in all 30 st (30)
9: 14 sc, BO, 1 sc, BO, 13 sc (30)
10: sc in all 30 st (30)
11: (8 sc, dec) × 3 (27)
12: 8 sc, BO, 12 sc, BO, 5 sc (27)

Note

• The BO stitches in Round 9 form the seal’s snout.
• The BO stitches in Round 12 form the arms.
• Depending on your stitch tension, you may adjust the placement of the BOs in Round 12 so the arms are symmetrical and the snout remains centered.

Head & Body (continued)

13: (7 sc, dec) × 3 (24)
14–17: (4 rounds) sc in all 24 st (24)

Insert the safety eyes between Rounds 7 and 8, directly above the snout, 3–4 stitches apart.

Stuff the head and body firmly and continue stuffing as you go.

18: (4 sc, dec) × 4 (20)
19: sc in all 20 st (20)
20: (3 sc, dec) × 4 (16)
21: dec × 8 (8)

Stuff firmly.
Fasten off, close the opening, and weave in the yarn ends.

Tail (Make 2)

Use white yarn. Work in continuous rounds.

1: mr, 6 sc (6)
2: (2 sc, inc) × 2 (8)
3–4: (2 rounds) sc in all 8 st (8)
5: (2 sc, dec) × 2 (6)

Do not stuff.
Fasten off, close the opening, and leave a long tail for sewing.

Hat

Work in continuous rounds.
Alternate colors as follows:

• White: Rounds 1, 3, 5, 7
• Red: Rounds 2, 4, 6, 8

1: mr, 6 sc (6)
2: (2 sc, inc) × 2 (8)
3: (3 sc, inc) × 2 (10)
4: (4 sc, inc) × 2 (12)
5: (5 sc, inc) × 2 (14)
6: (6 sc, inc) × 2 (16)
7: (7 sc, inc) × 2 (18)

8: slst in first st, ch 2, slst in next st
Repeat (ch 2, slst) around.

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly

• Embroider the nose using black or dark brown yarn between Rounds 8 and 9, centered between the two BO stitches.
• Sew the two tails to the bottom of the body.
• Sew the hat onto the head.

Congratulations!

Your adorable seal amigurumi is complete.

The post Christmas Seal Amigurumi Free Pattern – Crochet Tutorial appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

Get ready for the holidays with this adorable Christmas Gnome Amigurumi Free Pattern!
This step-by-step crochet tutorial includes detailed instructions for the body, hat, nose, mittens, and faux-fur beard. Perfect for beginners and experienced crocheters looking for a quick and festive holiday project.
Create your own cozy gnome to decorate your home, gift to friends, or add to your handmade Christmas amigurumi collection!

If you want to access 1000+ free amigurumi patterns, you can download our application from this link!

Materials: 

1: Yarn in two colours 

2: Crochet hook 

3: Stuffing 

4: Faux fur for the beard 

5: Sewing needle for attaching parts 

6: A piece of plastic or cardboard for the base 

7: Weight (to keep the gnome standing) — coins or glass beads 

Abbreviations: 

MR – magic ring 

sc – single crochet 

inc – increase 

dec – decrease 

bob – bobble stitch (3 dc with two yarn-overs made into one stitch) 

crab st – crab stitch (reverse single crochet) 

PATTERN – Christmas Gnome

Arms (make 2) – Christmas Gnome

1: 6 sc in MR 

2: (2 sc, inc) ×2 (8) 

3–15: 8 sc 

Mittens (make 2) – Christmas Gnome

1: 6 sc in MR 

2: (1 sc, inc) ×3 (9) 

3: 1 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 1 sc (11) 

4: 11 sc 

5: 2 sc, bob, 8 sc 

6–7: 11 sc 

8: 11 sc (crab st) 

Left mitten difference: 

5: 8 sc, bob, 2 sc 

Start the Gnome Body: 

1: 6 sc in MR 

2: 6 inc (12) 

3: (1 sc, inc) ×6 (18) 

4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) ×5, 1 sc (24) 

5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30) 

6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) ×5, 2 sc (36) 

7: (5 sc, inc) ×6 (42) 

8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) ×5, 3 sc (48) 

 Cut a round base from cardboard/plastic and secure inside. 

9–14: 48 sc 

15: 5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) ×3, 5 sc (44) 

16: 44 sc 

17: (9 sc, dec) ×4 (40) 

18: 40 sc 

19: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) ×3, 4 sc (36) 

20: 36 sc 

21: (7 sc, dec) ×4 (32) 

22–23: 32 sc 

24: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) ×3, 3 sc (28) 

25: 28 sc 

26: (5 sc, dec) ×4 (24) 

27: 4 sc  attach first arm → crochet 4 sc together with body  8 sc attach second arm → crochet 4 sc together with body 4 sc (24) 

28: (4 sc, dec) ×4 (20) 

29: 20 sc 

30: (3 sc, dec) ×4 (16) 

31: 16 sc 

32: (2 sc, dec) ×4 (12) 

33: (1 sc, dec) ×4 (8) 

Pull the opening closed and fasten off. 

Nose: – Christmas Gnome

1: 6 sc in MR 

2: 6 inc (12) 

3: 12 sc 

4: (1 sc, dec) ×4 

Hat: – Christmas Gnome

1: 6 sc in MR 

2: 6 sc 

3: (1 sc, inc) ×3 (9) 

4: 9 sc 

5: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) ×2, 1 sc (12) 

6: 12 sc 

7: (3 sc, inc) ×3 (15) 

8: 15 sc 

9: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) ×2, 2 sc (18) 

10: 18 sc 

11: (5 sc, inc) ×3 (21) 

12: 21 sc 

13: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) ×2, 3 sc (24) 

14: 24 sc 

15: (7 sc, inc) ×3 (27) 

16: 27 sc 

17: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) ×2, 4 sc (30) 

18: 30 sc 

19: (9 sc, inc) ×3 (33) 

20: 33 sc 

21: 5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) ×2 (36) 

22: 36 sc 

23: (11 sc, inc) ×3 (39) 

24: 39 sc 

25: 6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) ×2, 6 sc 

26: 42 sc 

You may sew on a pompom (store-bought or handmade). 

Assembly – Christmas Gnome

1: Sew the nose. 

2: Cut beard shape from faux fur and sew under the nose. 

3: Attach the hat: sew the front part to the nose and secure the sides and back with a few stitches so it doesn’t fall off. 

4: Decorate the hat with buttons or any accessories. 

The post Christmas Gnome Amigurumi Free Pattern – Crochet Tutorial appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

Embrace the festive spirit with our Free Christmas Amigurumi Little Teddy Bear Pattern! Meet the charming little teddy, a heartwarming creation designed to add a touch of holiday magic to your crochet endeavors. This project is not just a pattern; it’s an invitation to craft a huggable companion that embodies the joy and warmth of the Christmas season.

Perfect for crafters of all skill levels, this amigurumi teddy bear pattern promises a delightful and stress-free creative experience. Picture crafting your own little teddy bear, adorned with festive details, ready to be a cherished part of your holiday decorations or a heartwarming gift for someone special. Whether you’re a crochet aficionado or a beginner eager to explore the world of amigurumi, this Christmas teddy bear is here to make your holidays merrier.

Materials 

YarnArt Jeans yarn for the body: No. 05 (beige) 

YarnArt Jeans yarn No. 90 (red) 

YarnArt Jeans yarn No. 01 (white) 

YarnArt Jeans yarn No. 69 (green) 

Alize Softy yarn No. 55 (white) 

Crochet hook No. 2.5 

Filling 

Black eyes 6 mm, 2 pcs 

Black embroidery thread for facial features 

Needles, pins, scissors, glue 

Any decorations 

Abbreviations 

MC – magic circle 

sc – single crochet 

ch – chain 

inc – increase 

tr inc – treble increase in one stitch (3 sc) 

dec – decrease 

ss – slip stitch 

bphdc – back post half double crochet 

fphdc – front post half double crochet 

hdc – half double crochet 

(…)*n – repeat n times 

It is very important to gradually and tightly stuff the toy during the crocheting process. The size of the toy, using these materials, is 14 cm. 

PATTERN

Head 

Crochet with white yarn. 

Row 1: 6 sc in MC. 

Row 2: inc in each stitch (12 sc). 

Row 3: (tr inc)*3, 3 sc, (tr inc)*3, 3 sc (24 sc). 

Rows 4-5: Work 2 rows without increases (24 sc). 

Change color to beige. 

Row 6: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30 sc). 

Row 7: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36 sc). 

Rows 8-13: Work 6 rows without increases (36 sc). 

Row 14: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30 sc). 

Row 15: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24 sc). 

Row 16: 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*5, 1 sc (18 sc). 

Row 17: (1 sc, dec)*6 (12 sc). 

Row 18: (dec)*6 (6 sc). 

Fasten off, cut the yarn. 

Ears 

Crochet with beige yarn. 

Row 1: 7 sc in MC. 

Row 2: Work a row without increases (7 sc). 

Fasten off, cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing. 

Make the second ear in the same way. 

Facial Features 

Start with the tightening for the eyes. Between rows 5 and 6, mark two points at a distance of 8-9 stitches (1 and 2). Thread a needle with thread into the base of the head, come out at 1, and insert it one stitch to the left, coming out at the base of the head. Tighten the thread to create a tightening. Repeat the same with the other side: come out at 2, and insert it one stitch to the right. Attach the eyes, embroider eyelashes, nose, mouth, and eyebrows. 

Sew the ears in a suitable place. 

Arms 

Start crocheting with beige yarn. 

Row 1: 6 sc in MC. 

Row 2: inc in each stitch (12 sc). 

Row 3: Work a row without increases (12 sc). 

Row 4: 4 sc, (dec)*2, 4 sc (10 sc). 

Row 5: 3 sc, (dec)*2, 3 sc (8 sc). 

Row 6: Work a row without increases (8 sc). 

Change color to red. 

Row 7 behind bphdc: Work a row without increases (8 sc). 

Rows 8-11: Work 4 rows without increases (8 sc). 

Lightly stuff the arm halfway. Fold in half and crochet 4 sc. Fasten off and cut the yarn. 

Attach Alize Softy white yarn behind the fphdc of the 6th row, and work 1 sc in each fphdc. Fasten off and cut the yarn. 

Make the second arm in the same way. 

Legs 

Crochet with beige yarn. 

Row 1: 6 sc in MC. 

Row 2: (tr inc)*2, 1 sc, (tr inc)*2, 1 sc (14 sc). 

Row 3: (2 sc, inc)*2, 1 sc, (2 sc, inc)*2, 1 sc (18 sc). 

Rows 4-5: Work 2 rows without increases (18 sc) + a few sc to the center. For me, this is 4 sc. 

Row 6: 3 sc, (dec)*6, 3 sc (12 sc). 

Row 7: 3 sc, (dec)*3, 3 sc (9 sc). 

Rows 8-11: Work 4 rows without increases (9 sc). 

Lightly stuff the leg halfway. Fold in half and crochet 4 sc. Fasten off and cut the yarn. 

Make the second leg in the same way. 

Body 

Crochet with beige yarn. 

Row 1: 6 sc in MC. 

Row 2: inc in each stitch (12 sc). 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18 sc). 

Row 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24 sc). 

Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30 sc). 

Row 6: Introduce the legs: 6 sc, 4 sc (with the leg), 11 sc, 4 sc (with the leg), 5 sc (30 sc). 

Row 7: Work a row without increases (30 sc). 

Change color to red. 

Row 8 behind bphdc: Work a row without increases (30 sc). 

Row 9: Work a row without increases (30 sc). 

Row 10: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24 sc). 

Rows 11-12: Work 2 rows without increases (24 sc). 

Row 13: 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*5, 1 sc (18 sc). 

Row 14: Work a row without increases (18 sc). 

Row 15: Introduce the arms on the sides: for me, it turned out to be 4 sc, 4 sc (with the arm), 5 sc, 4 sc (with the arm), 1 sc (18 sc). 

Row 16: Work a row without increases (18 sc). 

Change color to beige. 

Row 17: (1 sc, dec)*6 (12 sc). 

Row 18: Work a row without increases (12 sc). 

Fasten off, cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing. 

Make a border for the sweater edge. Attach Alize Softy yarn in white behind the fphdc of the 7th row, and work 1 sc in each fphdc. Fasten off and cut the yarn. 

Sew the body to the head. 

Cap 

Crochet with red yarn. 

Row 1: 6 sc in MC. 

Row 2: Work a row without increases (6 sc). 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*3 (9 sc). 

Row 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*2, 1 sc (12 sc). 

Row 5: Work a row without increases (12 sc). 

Row 6: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15 sc). 

Fasten off, cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing. 

Sew the cap to the bear’s head. Decorate as desired. 

Collar 

Chain of 18 ch, starting from the 3rd loop from the hook, work 3-4 hdc in each ch. 

Fasten off, cut the yarn, leaving an end for sewing. 

Try it on the bear, sew the edges. 

The teddy bear is ready! 

The post Jolly Holidays: Free Christmas Amigurumi Little Teddy Bear Crochet Pattern! appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

As the festive season approaches, what better way to celebrate than with our Free New Year Christmas Doll Amigurumi Pattern! This delightful project combines the magic of the holidays with the charm of handmade craftsmanship. Picture crafting your own festive doll adorned with New Year and Christmas-themed details, bringing warmth and joy to your seasonal décor.

Designed for crocheters of all levels, this pattern is a perfect blend of creativity and celebration. Whether you’re a crochet enthusiast looking for a festive project or a beginner eager to explore the world of amigurumi, this doll is sure to become a cherished part of your holiday traditions.

Get ready for the fact that the process will take 8-10 hours (of course, it depends on individual speed). 

I want to reassure you; the instructions are not complicated, and crocheting will be easy. 

In the end, you should have a cute doll about 18 cm tall (including the bumps). 

The doll can be not only for the New Year but also “all-season”  

It all depends on your imagination. 

For work, you will need: 

Cotton in 2 colors (I used Pekhorka “Children’s Cotton” Thread length in a skein: 330m Weight of a skein: 100g). 

For the body and hat in the New Year version, use green or red (about 1/3 of a skein per doll). 

To avoid eye strain in the tutorial, I used the color “mint” for the head and hands. 

Yarn for the scarf (you can use any leftover yarn). 

Beads for eyes 2 pieces black, diameter – 0.6 or 0.8 mm. 

Holofiber or synthetic padding (about 80 g, depending on how tightly you want to stuff the toy). 

Long needle (9 cm). 

Piece of wire 20 cm. 

Adhesive plaster in a skein (need a piece about 10 cm long). 

Cotton swabs 5 pieces or nylon dowel 12*60 (photo will be below). 

Hook No. 1.25. 

Needles No. 2. 

Stitch marker and pins. 

Dry pastel or pink pencil. 

Buttons 2 pieces. 

Positivity and confidence that everything will work out! 

Abbreviations: 

SC – single crochet. 

INC – increase. 

DEC – decrease. 

Magic ring. 

Step 1: Make a loop about 2.5 cm from the end of the thread. Place the working thread between the index and middle fingers. 

Step 2: Insert the hook into the loop, grab the working thread, and pull it in front of the loop. 

Step 3: Grab the working thread and pull it through the formed loop. 

Step 4: Pull the working thread and tighten. This loop does not count as the first single crochet in the magic ring. 

Step 5: Bring the hook from below under both threads forming a large loop. Grab the working thread. 

Step 6: Pull the loop and grab the working thread again. Pull the working thread through the two loops on the hook. This way, we have crocheted the first single crochet without an increase in the magic ring. 

Crochet tightly in a spiral using 2 loops per stitch!!! 

PATTERN

LEGS: 

Mint color. 

Row 1: 5 SC in the magic ring. 

Row 2: 1 SC, INC in each stitch (9 SC). 

Row 3-15: Crochet 9 stitches in each row (14 rows). 

Make 2 legs. Cut the thread on the right leg, leaving a long tail. On the second leg, don’t cut; continue crocheting the body. 

BODY: 

Mint color. 

Row 1: Connect the two legs, making increases on the sides: crochet 5 SC on the left leg, place a marker; then a chain of 10 chains; then on the right leg, crochet 3 SC, INC, 1 SC, INC, 3 SC; 10 chains; on the left leg, crochet 3 SC, INC, 1 SC, INC, 3 SC. 

You should have a total of 42 SC. 

Row 2: 42 SC. Crochet the chains of the chain row behind 1 loop! On the legs, crochet behind 2 loops. 

Row 3-14: Crochet 12 rows (behind 2 loops) without changes = 42 SC. 

Sew the opening between the legs with the remainder of the thread from the right leg behind 1 loop. 

Stuff the legs tightly with holofiber (I use a barbecue stick for this). 

Row 15: (5 SC, DEC) 6 times = 36 SC. 

Row 16-23: 36 SC. 

Row 24: (4 SC, DEC) 6 times = 30 SC. 

Row 25-26: 30 SC. 

Row 27: (3 SC, DEC) 6 times = 24 SC. 

Row 28-29: 24 SC. 

Row 30: (2 SC, DEC) 6 times = 18 SC. 

Row 31-32: 18 SC. 

Row 33: (1 SC, DEC) 6 times = 12 SC. 

Stuff the body tightly with holofiber. 

Row 34: (2 SC, DEC) 6 times = 18 SC. 

Row 35-36: 18 SC. 

Row 37: Change the color of the thread. Skin color (raw). 

Row 38: (2 SC, INC) 6 times = 24 SC. 

Row 39: (3 SC, INC) 6 times = 30 SC. 

Row 40: (4 SC, INC) 6 times = 36 SC. 

Row 41: (5 SC, INC) 6 times = 42 SC. 

Row 42: (6 SC, INC) 6 times = 48 SC. 

Row 43: (7 SC, INC) 6 times = 54 SC. 

Row 44: (8 SC, INC) 6 times = 60 SC. 

Row 45: (9 SC, INC) 6 times = 66 SC. 

Stuff the body. Insert 5 cotton swabs (fix with adhesive plaster) or dowel into the neck. If using a dowel, thread a wire for the arms through the gap in it. To do this, insert the wire from the side between the 22nd and 23rd rows of the torso, then into the gap, and then pull it out on the other side. 

Row 46-47: 66 SC (12 rows). 

Row 48: (9 SC, DEC) 6 times = 60 SC. 

Row 49: (8 SC, DEC) 6 times = 54 SC. 

Row 50: (7 SC, DEC) 6 times = 48 SC. 

Row 51: (6 SC, DEC) 6 times = 42 SC. 

Row 52: (5 SC, DEC) 6 times = 36 SC. 

Row 53: (4 SC, DEC) 6 times = 30 SC. 

Head: 

Change the thread color. Skin color (raw). 

Row 54: (3 SC, INC) 6 times = 24 SC. 

Row 55: (2 SC, INC) 6 times = 18 SC. 

Row 56: (1 SC, INC) 6 times = 12 SC. 

Stuff the remaining part of the head. 

Cut the thread, leaving a long tail (we will make a drawstring for the eyes). 

Pull the opening tight. 

DRAWSTRING: 

Decide on which side the face will be (it doesn’t matter), mark the place for the eyes (you can use pins). For me, it’s between the 12th and 13th rows of the head. There should be 7-8 stitches between the eyes (as you prefer). 

Thread the remaining thread into a long needle and insert it into the center of the crown. Bring it out between the rows in the presumed place for the left eye. Then insert the needle into the adjacent stitch of the same row and bring it out to the presumed place for the right eye. Repeat this process several times, tightening the “eye sockets” together. Finally, bring the thread out on the crown and secure it with a knot. 

Sew black beads as eyes into the tightened areas on the head. 

HANDS: 

Skin color (raw). 

Row 1: 4 SC in the magic ring. 

Row 2: Increases in each stitch = 8 SC. 

Row 3: 8 SC. 

Row 4: 3 SC, INC, 1 SC, INC, 3 SC = 8 SC (for one hand). (7 SC, 3 INC with one peak = 8 SC for the other hand). 

Row 5: 8 SC. 

Change the color to mint. 

Row 6-24: 8 SC (19 rows). 

Cut the thread, leaving a long tail (it will be used for sewing). 

Attach the finished hands to the wire, bend the last loop at the desired level, fixing it with adhesive plaster. Put the hands on the wire, pull them to the torso, and sew them carefully. 

For those having difficulty or no wire, you can simply sew or gather the loops of the hands at the top and sew them to the torso. 

HAT: 

Mint color. 

Row 1: 6 SC in the magic ring. 

Row 2: Increases in each stitch = 12 SC. 

Row 3: (1 SC, INC) 6 times = 18 SC. 

Row 4: (2 SC, INC) 6 times = 24 SC. 

Row 5: (3 SC, INC) 6 times = 30 SC. 

Row 6: (4 SC, INC) 6 times = 36 SC. 

Row 7: (5 SC, INC) 6 times = 42 SC. 

Row 8: (6 SC, INC) 6 times = 48 SC. 

Row 9: (7 SC, INC) 6 times = 54 SC. 

Row 10: (8 SC, INC) 6 times = 60 SC. 

Row 11: (9 SC, INC) 6 times = 66 SC. 

Row 11-23: 66 SC (13 rows). 

Cut the thread, leaving a long tail (it will be used for sewing). 

BUMPS: 

Mint color. 

Crochet two identical bumps and sew them on the sides (New Year’s coloring). 

Make 2 pieces. 

Row 1: 6 SC in the magic ring. 

Row 2: Increases in each stitch = 12 SC. 

Row 3: (1 SC, INC) 6 times = 18 SC. 

Row 4: (2 SC, INC) 6 times = 24 SC. 

Row 5: (3 SC, INC) 6 times = 30 SC. 

Row 6: (4 SC, INC) 6 times = 36 SC. 

Row 7-10: 36 SC. 

Cut the thread, leaving a long tail (it will be used for sewing). 

SCARF: 

Color of your choice. 

Knit with knitting needles, picking up stitches arbitrarily (depending on the yarn) and the length that suits you. I knitted with knitting needles No. 2 on 11 stitches for 142 rows. 

1st row – knit stitches. 

2nd row – purl stitches. 

Alternate until the desired length. 

If you crochet, choose the number of chains depending on the desired width. For example, chain 6, then 2 chains for turning, turn, 5 single crochet. 

Continue with turning rows until the desired length. 

ASSEMBLY AND DECORATION: 

Put the hat on the head (it should fit tightly), sew it by grabbing the thread in several places. 

Place the bumps on the hat as you like, stuffing them with holofiber and sewing them. 

Embroider the belly button with cross-stitch. 

Add a blush to the cheeks with dry pastel or a powdered pencil (use a brush or a sponge tampon). 

Sew buttons to the hat. 

Tie a scarf around the neck. 

The New Year’s doll is ready! 

Enjoy your crocheting! 

The post Ring in the Holidays with Joy: Free New Year Christmas Doll Amigurumi Pattern! appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

Embrace the magic of the season with our free Christmas Deer Amigurumi pattern. Whether you’re a crochet enthusiast or a beginner looking for a festive project, this pattern is perfect for you. Craft a charming crochet reindeer with easy-to-follow instructions and detailed photos. This adorable amigurumi is the ideal addition to your holiday decor or a heartwarming gift. Join us on a joyful crochet journey to make this Christmas Deer a part of your holiday traditions!

Materials: 

Yarn for deer: cream Alize Cotton Gold colour 01, red Alize Cotton Gold colour 243, grey Alize Cotton Gold colour 87 

Yarn for Christmas tree: green, brown and red Alize Cotton Gold or YarnArt Jeans 

Hook size: 2.00 mm 

10 mm safety eyes 

Fiberfill 

Abbreviations: 

ch = chain 

sc = single crochet 

dc = double crochet 

inc = 2 sc in the next stitch 

dec = single crochet 2 stitches together 

sl st = slip stitch 

F.o. = finish off 

BLO = back loop only 

FLO = front loop only 

PATTERN

Head 

With cream yarn: 

Row1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 

Row2: (inc) * 6 = 12 

Row3: (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18 

Row4: (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24 

Row5: (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30 

Row6: (4 sc, inc) * 6 = 36 

Insert safety eyes between Row13 and Row14. 

Row7-14: 36 sc (8 rows) 

Row15: (5 sc, inc) * 6 = 42 

Row16: (6 sc, inc) * 6 = 48 

Row17: (15 sc, inc) * 3 = 51 

Row18: (16 sc, inc) * 3 = 54 

Row19-23: 54 sc (5 rows) 

Row24: (16 sc, dec) * 3 = 51 

Row25: (15 sc, dec) * 3 = 48 

Row26: (6 sc, dec) * 6 = 42 

Row27: (5 sc, dec) * 6 = 36 

Row28: (4 sc, dec) * 6 = 30 

Row29: (3 sc, dec) * 6 = 24 

Row30: (2 sc, dec) * 6 = 18 

Row31: (1 sc, dec) * 6 = 12, sl st 

F.o. 

Nose 

With red yarn: 

Row1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 

Row2: (3 sc in next st, 2 sc) * 2 = 10 

Row3: (3 inc, 2 sc) * 2 = 16 

Row4: 16 sc 

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Ears (make 2) 

With cream yarn: 

Row1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 

Row2: 6 sc 

Row3: (1 sc, inc) * 3 = 9 

Row4-6: 9 sc (3 rows) 

Fold top of ear flat and 4 sc through both sides across. 

Leave a long tail for sewing. 

Horns (make 2) 

With grey yarn: 

Big horn part 

Row1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 

Row2: (1 sc, inc) * 3 = 9 

Row3-17:  9 sc (15 rows) 

Small horn part #1 

Row1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 

Row2: (1 sc, inc) * 3 = 9 

Row3-4: 9 sc (2 rows) 

Fold top flat and 4 sc through both sides across. 

Small horn part #2 

Row1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 

Row2: (1 sc, inc) * 3 = 9 

Row3: 9 sc 

Fold top flat and 4 sc through both sides across. 

Small horn part #3 

Row1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 

Row2-3: 6 sc (2 rows) 

Fold top flat and 2 sc through both sides across. 

Body 

With cream yarn: 

Row1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 

Row2: (inc) * 6 = 12 

Row3: (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18 

Row4: (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24 

Row5: (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30 

Row6: (4 sc, inc) * 6 = 36 

Row7: (5 sc, inc) * 6 = 42 

Row8: (6 sc, inc) * 6 = 48 

Row9-16: 48 sc (8 rows) 

Row17: (6 sc, dec) * 6 = 42 

Row18-19: 42 sc (2 rows) 

Row20: (5 sc, dec) * 6 = 36 

Row21-22: 36 sc (2 rows) 

Row23: (4 sc, dec) * 6 = 30 

Row24-25: 30 sc (2 rows) 

Row26: (3 sc, dec) * 6 = 24 

Row27-29: 24 sc (3 rows), sl st 

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Arms (make 2) 

With grey yarn: 

Row1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 

Row2: (inc) * 6 = 12 

Row3-5: 12 sc (3 rows) 

With cream yarn: 

Row6-25: 12 sc (20 rows) 

Row26: (dec) * 6 = 6 

F.o. 

Legs (make 2) 

With grey yarn: 

Row1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 

Row2: (inc) * 6 = 12 

Row3: (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18 

Row4: (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24 

Row5: (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30 

Row6-7: 30 sc (2 rows) 

Row8: (3 sc, dec) * 6 = 24 

Row9: (2 sc, dec) * 6 = 18 

With cream yarn: 

Row10-24: 18 sc (15 rows), sl st 

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Belly 

With grey yarn: 

Row1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 

Row2: (inc) * 6 = 12 

Row3: (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18 

Row4: (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24 

Row5: (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30 

Row6: (4 sc, inc) * 6 = 36, sl st 

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Bow 

With red yarn: 

Make 8 ch. 

Row1: From the 2nd ch from hook: 7 sc, 1 turning chain 

Row2-17: 7 sc, 1 turning chain (16 rows) 

Make sc around edges of bow.  

With green yarn: 

Row1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 

Row2: (1 sc, inc) * 3 = 9 

Row3: 9 sc 

Row4: (2 sc, inc) * 3 = 12 

Row5: BLO 12 sc 

Row6: (3 sc, inc) * 3 = 15 

Row7: (4 sc, inc) * 3 = 18 

Row8: BLO 18 sc 

Row9: (5 sc, inc) * 3 = 21 

Row10: (6 sc, inc) * 3 = 24 

Row11: BLO 24 sc 

Row12: (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30 

Row13: (4 sc, inc) * 6 = 36 

Row14: BLO 36 sc 

Row15-16: 36 sc (2 rows) 

Row17: (4 sc, dec) * 6 = 30 

Row18: (3 sc, dec) * 6 = 24 

Row19: (2 sc, dec) * 6 = 18 

Row20: (1 sc, dec) * 6 = 12 

With brown yarn: 

Row21-25: 12 sc (5 rows) 

Row26: (dec) * 6 = 6 

F.o. 

Go to Row5, Row8, Row11, Row14 and ctochet around: 

Row1: FLO sc to the end of row 

Row2: (1 sc, dc, 1 sc in one st, sl st in next st) * repeat to the end of row 

The post Christmas Deer Amigurumi Free Pattern | Craft Your Festive Crochet Reindeer appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

Get ready to infuse your holiday season with some crocheted charm! Our free Christmas Gingerbread Amigurumi pattern is the recipe for crafting a delightful, sweet, and festive treat. Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or just starting out, this project is designed to spread joy to all. In this detailed guide, we’ll lead you through the process of crafting an adorable gingerbread amigurumi that’s sure to bring a dash of holiday magic to your home. So, grab your yarn, hooks, and let’s embark on this heartwarming amigurumi journey!

Materials 

The yarn used for the pattern is Rainbow cotton 8/4: 

Brown 

Red 

White 

Green 

Black 

Stitch markers 

Scissors 

Hook number 2.5 

Abbreviations 

mr – magic ring 

slst – slip stitch 

sc – single crochet in US (double crochet in UK) 

dc- double crochet (treble crochet in UK) 

inc – increase (2 single crochet in one stitch) 

dec – decrease (2 single crochet together) 

PATTERN

Head 

Use light brown color yarn. 

1.6sc in mr (6) 

2. inc x 6 (12) 

3. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18) 

4. (2sc, inc) x 6 (24) 

5. (3sc, inc) x 6 (30) 

6. (4sc, inc) x 6 (36) 

7. (5sc, inc) x 6 (42) 

8. (6sc, inc) x 6 (48) 

9.- 17. Sc around (48) 

Place safety eyes (6 mm) between R11 and R12, 8 stitches apart. 

18. (6sc, dec) x 6 (42) 

19. (5sc, dec) x 6 (36) 

20. (4sc, dec) x 6 (30) 

21. (3sc, dec) x 6 (24) 

22. (2sc, dec) x 6 (18) Fill well with fiberfill.Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Embroider the mouth between R15 and R17, 8 sc in lenght. 

Legs and body 

Use light brown color yarn. 

1. mr (6) 

2. inc x 6 (12) 

3. (1sc, inc) x 6 (18) 

4. (2sc, inc) x 6 (24) 

5. – 6. sc around (24) 

7. sc around (24) – switching every stitch between light brown and white 

8. sc around (24) – with white only! 

9. sc around (24) – switching every stitch between light brown and white 

10. – 12. sc around (24) – light brown only! 

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing for the 1st leg only! Make the 2nd leg,and continue from 

R13. 

13. Using the tail from the 1st leg, make 6 sc across both legs, connecting it to the 2nd leg, 

between 1st and 7th stitches of the 2nd leg of R13. 

Continuing R13 of the 2nd leg, sc around the outer side of both legs (36) 

14. (5sc, inc) x 6 (42) 

15. (6sc, inc) x 6 (48) 

Start filling the legs and body, and continue as you go along. 

16. – 23. sc around (48) 

24. (6sc, dec) x 6 (42) 

25. sc around (42) 

26. (5sc, dec) x 6 (36) 

27. sc around (36) 

28. (4sc, dec) x 6 (30) 

29. sc around (30) 

30. (3sc, dec) x 6 (24) 

31. (2sc, dec) x 6 (18) 

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Scarf 

Use red color yarn or color of choice. 

1. ch 81, turn. Starting from the 2nd stitch from the hook make 80sc (80) 

2.- 3. ch1, turn, 80sc (80) 

Fasten off, weave in the ends. 

Arms (make 2) 

Use light brown color yarn. 1.mr (6) 

2. inc x 6 (12) 

3. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18) 

4. (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24) 

5. – 6. sc around (24) 

7. sc around (24) – switching every stitch between light brown and white. 

8. sc around (24) – with white only! 

9. sc around (24) – switching every stitch between light brown and white. 

10. – 12. sc around (24) – light brown only! 

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Fill the arms. Sew the arms between R21 and R29. 

Buttons ( make 3) 

Use green color yarn or color of choice. 

1.6sc in a mr, slst in the 1st stitch, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Hat 

Use red color yarn, or color of choice 

1. mr (6) 

2.-3. sc around (6) 

4. inc x 6 (12) 

5. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18) 

6. sc around (18) 

7. (2sc, inc) x 6 (24) 

8. sc around (24) 

9. (3sc, inc) x 6 (30) 

10. sc around (30) 

11. (4sc, inc) x 6 (36) 

12. sc around (36) 

13. (5sc, inc) x 6 (42) 

14. sc around (42) 

15. (6sc, inc) x 6 (48) 

Change to white color yarn. 

16. ch 2, 48dc, slst to the 1st stitch (48) 

Fasten off, weave in the yarn. 

Pom-pom 

Use white yarn. 

Cut a piece of white yarn around 20cm. 

Take the yarn and loop it around your index and middle fingers at least 20 – 30 times, take the 

yarn carefully off and with the piece of yarn you cut beforehand, make a tight knot in the middle 

(placing it horizontally and the looped yarn vertically). 

Then cut the loops on both sides and make the strings even. Use the ends of the 20cm string that 

you used to make the knots for sewing the pom-pom on the top of the hat. 

The post Free Christmas Gingerbread Amigurumi Pattern: Create Sweet Holiday Magic! appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

The holiday season is just around the corner, and what better way to embrace the festive cheer than by crafting your very own Christmas Santa Claus Amigurumi doll? Our free pattern will guide you through the creative process, allowing you to bring the magic of Santa Claus to life in the form of a delightful amigurumi toy. Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or a complete beginner, this project is perfect for all skill levels.

With our detailed instructions and clear, easy-to-follow steps, you can create a whimsical Santa Claus amigurumi that will add a touch of warmth and charm to your holiday decor. Not only is it a wonderful addition to your own festive setup, but it also makes for a heartwarming gift that your loved ones will treasure.

You will need: 

About 50g each of Size 4 Worsted weight yarn in skin color, sweater color, stripe colors 

(I used Hobby Lobby’s I love this yarn for the project in colors ivory, red, white, and black) 

12mm safety eyes 

Stuffing 

3.75mm hook 

Needle for sewing 

Stitch marker 

¾ cup Poly pellets (these are used to weigh down the body so it can sit on the shelf) 

Abbreviations 

SC- single crochet 

SC INC- single crochet increase (2 SC in each stitch) 

INV DEC– Invisible decrease (put hook through the FRONT LOOP ONLY of two consecutive stitches [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through both loops. [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through two loops) 

Magic Circle– Make a loop, leaving a long tail to work with. Insert hook in center of loop, yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over, pull through to make the first chain (this does not count as a stitch!). Continue to crochet over the loop and tail with the number of stitches called for. (If you need 6 SC, then crochet 6 SC inside the ring.) Pull the tail to close the circle. 

Always move your stitch marker to the last stitch in the round. This pattern is worked in continuous rounds. 

PATTERN

Legs 

Using Black: 

Round 1: 6 SC in a magic circle. 

Round 2: INC in each around. (12) 

Round 3: SC in the first, SC INC in the next. (18) 

Round 4: SC in the first 2, SC INC in the next. Repeat around. (24) 

Round 5: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30) 

Round 6: SC in first 4, SC INC in the next. Repeat around. (36) 

Rounds 7-11: SC in each around. (36) 

Round 12: INV DEC 12 times. SC in the remaining 12 stitches. (24) 

Round 13: INV DEC 6 times. SC in the remaining 12. (18) 

Rounds 14-17: SC in each around. (18) 

Change to white. Change colors every 5 rows, alternating white and red. 

Rounds 18-52: SC in each around. (18) 

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto the body. Stuff the feet really well. Stuff the rest of the legs lightly, up until the last five rows. Make the boots edge by attaching the black yarn to the first row where you change color, with the legs facing up and the boots down so that your stitches will be facing up.Go around the stitch, like you were making a post stitch. Chain 2. HDC in each around, slip stitching to the first when you meet it. Fasten off and weave in the ends. 

You will attach the legs to row 10 of the body, about 4 stitches apart. 

Arms 

*I only stuff the very bottom and very lightly. Then not at all through the top half.* 

Using ivory color: 

Round 1: SC 6 in a magic ring. 

Round 2: SC INC in each around. (12) 

Round 3: SC in first, SC INC in the next. Repeat around. (18) 

Rounds 4-8: SC in each around. (18) 

Change to sweater color. 

Rounds 9-25: SC in each around.(18) 

Round 26: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat in next. 

Fasten off and leave a tail long enough to sew on. Attach the arms between rows 28 and 29 on the body. 

Make the sweater edge by attaching white yarn to the first row where you change color, with the hands facing up so that your stitches will be facing down (like the cuffs of your sweater would.) Go around the stitch, like you were making a post stitch. Chain 2. HDC in each around, slip stitching to the first when you meet it. Fasten off and weave in the ends. 

Body 

With white yarn: 

Round 1: In a magic circle, 6 SC. 

Round 2: SC INC in each around. (12) 

Round 3: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18) 

Round 4: SC in first 2, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (24) 

Round 5: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30) 

Round 6: SC in first 4, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (36) 

Round 7: SC in first 5, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (42) 

Round 8: SC in first 6, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (48) 

Round 9: SC in first 7, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (54) 

Round 10: SC in first 8, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (60) 

Rounds 11-12: SC in each around. (60) 

Change to red. 

Rounds 13-16: SC in each around. (60) 

Change to Black 

Rounds 17-18: SC in each around. (60) 

Change to Red 

Round 19: SC in each around. (60) 

Round 20: SC in the first 8, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (54) 

Rounds 21: SC in each around. (54) 

Round 22: SC in the first 7, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (48) 

Sew the belt buckle on by using a gold yarn. I made two passes in a rectangle shape. 

Round 23: SC in each around. (48) 

Round 24: SC in the first 6, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (42) 

Round 25: SC in each around. (42) 

Round 26: SC in the first 5, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (36) 

Round 27: SC in each around. (36) 

Round 28: SC in the first 4, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (30) 

Round 29: SC in the first 3, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (24) 

Round 30: SC in the first 2, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (18) 

Round 31: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (12) 

Change to skin color. 

Rounds 32: SC in each around (12) 

From here we will be increasing the head. From this point I am resetting the number on the rounds. Round 33 of the body is now Round 1 of the head. It will be easy to see. 

Head 

Round 1: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18) 

Round 2: SC in first 2, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (24) 

Round 3: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30) 

Round 4: SC in first 4, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (36) 

Round 5: SC in first 5, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (42) 

Round 6: SC in first 6, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (48) 

Round 7: SC in first 7, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (54) 

Round 8-20: SC in each stitch around. (54) 

Place the safety eyes in between rows 13 and 14, ten stitches apart. I also like to stretch the bottom of the head a little. It makes it more round from the point of the neck. 

Round 21: SC in the first 7, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (48) 

Round 22: SC in the first 6, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (42) 

Round 23: SC in the first 5, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (36) 

Round 24: SC in the first 4, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (30) 

Round 25: SC in the first 3, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (24) 

Round 26: SC in the first 2, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (18) 

Round 27: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (12) 

Round 28: INV DEC around. (6) 

Fasten off leaving a long tail to make the nose. If you need tips on sewing on the nose, check out this post. 

Sweater Edge 

Make the sweater edge by attaching white yarn to the first row where you change color, with the bottom facing up so that your stitches will be facing down (like the edge of your sweater would.) Go around the stitch, like you were making a post stitch. Chain 2. DC in each around, slip stitching to the first when you meet it. Fasten off and weave in the ends. 

Beard 

Using white yarn, chain 20. 

Row 1: In the 2nd chain from hook DC. DC in each stitch across. Chain 1 and turn. (18) 

Row 2: DEC. DC in the next 14. DEC in the last two stitches. (16) 

Row 3: DEC. DC in the next 12. DEC in the last two stitches. (14) 

Row 4: DEC. DC in the next 10. DEC in the last two stitches. (12) 

Row 5: DEC. DC in the next 8. DEC in the last two stitches. (10) 

Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the face. Sew up along the side of the beard to the top corner. 

Mustache 

Chain 20. SC in the first 4, HDC in the next, DC in the next, TRC in the next 3.Chain 3 and slip stitch to the next stitch. Chain 3. TRC in the next 3, DC in the next, HDC in the next, SC in the final 4. 

Fasten off. Attach the mustache to the top of the beard, sewing the the top stitches of the beard and mustache. 

Attach the beard to the face directly under nose using pins. Sew along the top. Fasten off and weave in the ends. 

Hat 

At the end of each round you will chain 2. It does not count as a stitch. Fasten to the first stitch with a slip stitch at the end of each row. 

With Red: 

Round 1: In a magic circle crochet 10 DC. 

Round 2: DC in each around. (10) 

Round 3: DC in the first, INC in the next. Repeat around. (15) 

Round 4: DC in each around. (15) 

Round 5: DC in the first 2, INC in the next. Repeat around. (20) 

Round 6: DC in each around. (20) 

Round 7: DC in the first 3, INC in the next. Repeat around. (25) 

Round 8: DC in each around. (25) 

Round 9: DC in the first 4, INC in the next. Repeat around. (30) 

Round 10: DC in the first 5, INC in the next. Repeat around. (35) 

Round 11: DC in the first 6, INC in the next. Repeat around. (40) 

Round 12: DC in the first 7, INC in the next. Repeat around. (45) 

Round 13: DC in the first 8, INC in the next. Repeat around. (50) 

Rounds 14-19: DC in each around. 

Change to white. 

Round 20: DC in each around. (50) 

Round 21-22: Front post double crochet (FPDC) around the first stitch. Back post double crochet(BPDC) in the next. Alternate to the end of the row. 

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Attach a fluffy pom pom to the top. 

The post Christmas Santa Claus Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

Spread some holiday cheer with our Christmas Elf Girl Amigurumi free pattern! Crafting your very own adorable elf doll is a delightful way to add a touch of magic to your festive decorations. Whether you’re an experienced crocheter or a beginner, this pattern provides step-by-step instructions to bring this charming elf to life. Get ready to infuse your home with the spirit of Christmas amigurumi as you crochet this enchanting amigurumi character.

Craft a whimsical Christmas Elf Girl Amigurumi with our free pattern. Perfect for holiday decor or as a heartfelt handmade gift. Suitable for crocheters of all levels.

Materials and Tools: 

• Yarn in flesh tone, green, peach, and orange colors. 

• Suitable-sized crochet hook (I used thin yarn: Semenovskaya Cable, Jiva Cotton Delekat, and a 1.0 mm hook). 

• Polyester fiberfill. 

• Scissors. 

• Needle with a wide eye. 

• Safety eyes. 

Abbreviations: 

MR – Magic Ring 

sc – single crochet 

inc – increase 

dec – decrease 

ch – chain 

hdc – half double crochet 

sl st – slip stitch 

[…] * …times – repeat the instructions in the brackets the specified number of times 

(…) – total number of stitches in the row 

PATTERN 

Arms (2 pieces): 

The arms are crocheted in the round, but you can also crochet them in spirals if you have thin yarn. If your yarn is thin enough, you don’t need to stuff the arms. 

Start with the flesh tone yarn. 

1st Round: MR, 6 sc (6). 

2nd Round: inc, sc, inc, sc, sc (8). 

3rd-4th Round: 8 sc (8) – (2 rounds). 

Continue crocheting with the color of the future dress. I’m using green, but you can choose any other color. Fasten off the flesh tone yarn from the inside. 

5th-19th Round: 8 sc (8) – (15 rounds). 

Leave short tails of yarn for attaching the arms and fasten off. 

Legs (2 pieces): 

The legs are crocheted in the round with a chain. If you want solid-colored legs, you can crochet them in spirals. Stuff the legs as you go. 

Start with the color of the boots. 

1st Round: Ch 5. Starting from the second chain from the hook, crochet 3 sc, 3 sc in the same chain, turn the chain, 2 sc on the other side of the chain, inc (10). 

2nd Round: inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc (16). 

3rd Round: sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, [sc, inc] twice, 3 sc, inc, sc, inc (22). 

4th Round: 22 sc in the back loops (22). 

5th Round: 8 sc, 3 inc, 11 sc (25). 

6th Round: 6 sc, 5 dec, 9 sc (20). 

Switch to the color of the tights/socks/legs. I’m making stripes. 

7th Round: This round is worked in the back loops: 3 sc, [dec, sc] three times, dec, 6 sc (16). 

8th Round: sc, dec, 2 sc, work the next 3 sc together as one (this creates a decrease with three stitches instead of two), 2 sc, dec, 4 sc (12). 

Continue crocheting in stripes: one round of orange yarn and two rounds of peach yarn. 

9th-29th Round: 12 sc (12) – (21 rounds). 

Fasten off and cut the yarn for the first leg. For the second leg, do not cut the yarn; we will continue crocheting the body. 

Body and Head: 

The body is crocheted in the round with a chain. If desired, you can crochet in spirals. Stuff the body firmly, especially at the junction of the legs and body. 

Start crocheting with the color of the tights. Number the rounds from the legs. 

30th Round: Crochet 10 sc on the second leg, chain 6, join to the first leg, crochet 12 sc on the first leg, 6 sc on the chain, 2 sc on the second leg (36). 

31st Round: 2 sc, inc, sc, inc, 5 sc, 6 hdc in the chain between the legs, 5 sc, inc, sc, inc, 12 sc (40). 

32nd-34th Round: 40 sc (40) – (3 rounds). 

35th Round: Make one increase in the front and one in the back, approximately in the middle (42). 

36th-40th Round: 42 sc (42) – (5 rounds). 

41st Round: sc, [dec, 5 sc] five times, dec, 4 sc (36). 

Switch to the dress color, fasten off the yarn in the tights color, and continue crocheting. 

42nd-43rd Round: 36 sc in the back loops (36) – (2 rounds). 

44th-55th Round: 36 sc (36) – (12 rounds). 

56th Round: In this round, attach the arms. Be careful; you may need to shift the pieces by a few stitches to ensure they are evenly placed. Fold the arms in half. Crochet 4 sc, work the next 4 sc together with one arm, 15 sc, work the next 4 sc together with the other arm, 9 sc (36). 

57th Round: 36 sc (36). 

58th Round: 2 sc, [dec, 4 sc] five times, dec, 2 sc (30). 

Change the yarn color to the flesh tone. Continue crocheting. Secure and cut the yarn in the dress color. 

59th Round: 30 sc in the back loops (30). 

60th Round: [dec, 3 sc] six times (24). 

61st Round: 24 sc (24). 

62nd Round: [sc, inc] twelve times (36). 

63rd Round: 36 sc (36). 

64th Round: [inc, 2 sc] twelve times (48). 

65th-74th Round: 48 sc (48) – (10 rounds). 

75th Round: [6 sc, dec] six times (42). 

76th Round: 42 sc (42). 

77th Round: 4 sc, [dec, 5 sc] five times, dec, sc (36). 

78th Round: 2 sc, [dec, 4 sc] five times, dec, 2 sc (30). 

79th Round: [dec, 3 sc] six times (24). 

80th Round: [2 sc, dec] six times (18). 

81st Round: [dec, sc] six times (12). 

82nd Round: 6 dec (6). 

Leave a small tail, stuff the head tightly, carefully close the opening at the top 

Ears: 

Decorate the doll’s face as you like. I won’t dwell on this. I added indentations for the eyes on my doll. I will decorate the eyes later. 

Important! Do all the embroidery on the face at this stage. Attach the threads as discreetly as possible to the back of the doll’s head. We will cover them with hair later. 

Crochet the ears with flesh tone yarn in spirals. Do not stuff. 

1st Row: MR, 6 sc (6). 

2nd Row: sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (8). 

3rd Row: [3 sc, inc] twice (10). 

4th-5th Row: 10 sc (10) – (2 rounds). 

6th Row: [3 sc, dec] twice (8). 

7th Row: 8 sc (8). 

8th Row: [2 sc, dec] twice (6). 

9th Row: 6 sc (6). 

Leave a fairly long tail. Carefully close the tip of the ear. Secure the yarn and sew the ear through, leading the thread to its base. Secure it. Then attach the ears with pins and sew them to the head. You can use the same thread to embroider the nose or make indentations for the eyes. Hide all the ends on the top, secure them, and cut them. 

Hair: 

Hair is a somewhat labor-intensive part of any doll. If you know an easier method, feel free to use it. 

Start by chaining 26. 

Then work as follows: [curl (chain 46, start from the second chain from the hook, crochet hdc in each chain of the chain), sc]*25 times. In the last chain of the initial chain, crochet 3 curls and 3 sc alternately. Turn the work and repeat the same on the other side to the end of the chain. It will look like a primitive wig. 

Sew this creation first in the middle of the head, following the loops of our chain. Then secure each curl separately. It’s not as scary or time-consuming as it may seem. If desired, you can crochet an additional chain with curls (only one-sided) to give the doll a fuller hairstyle. 

Skirt: 

Crochet the lower skirt part in any light or pastel color yarn. Start crocheting from the front loop of the 42nd row of the body. Begin each row with 3 chains as a turning chain and close the end of the row in a circle. 

1st Row: [hdc, 2 hdc in one loop]*work until the end of the row. 

2nd Row: [2 hdc in one loop, 2 hdc]*work until the end of the row. 

3rd-7th Row: Work the entire row in hdc (5 rows in total). 

8th Row (Edging): [sc, skip one loop, work an arch in the next loop (2 hdc, ch, 2 hdc), skip one loop]*repeat until the end of the row. 

The upper part of the skirt is crocheted in the color of the dress. I’m using green. Start from the front loop of the 43rd row of the body. I’ve prepared three options for you. Choose the one you like. 

Green part of the skirt – Option 1: 

1st Row: [hdc, 2 hdc in one loop]*work until the end of the row. 

2nd Row: [2 hdc in one loop, 2 sc]*work until the end of the row. 

3rd-5th Row: Work the entire row in hdc (3 rows in total). 

6th Row: [hdc, ch, skip one loop]*repeat until the end of the row. 

7th Row: [sc in the ch of the previous row, 3 ch]*repeat until the end of the row. 

8th Row: [sc in the arch of 3 ch of the previous row, in the next arch of 3 ch, work (2 hdc, ch, 2 hdc)]*repeat until the end of the row. 

Green part of the skirt – Option 2: Follow the provided diagram. 

Green part of the skirt – Option 3: Follow the provided diagram. 

You can also create your own original skirt. 

Hat-Cap: 

The hat is two-colored and crocheted in the round with turning chains. Start with green yarn. 

1st Row: Close 6 hdc in MR (6). 

2nd Row: [hdc, 2 hdc in one loop]*repeat 3 times (9). 

3rd Row: [2 hdc in one loop, 2 hdc]*repeat 3 times (12). 

4th Row: Switch to peach yarn. 

[2 hdc in one loop, 2 hdc]*repeat 4 times (16). 

5th Row: [2 hdc in one loop, 3 hdc]*repeat 4 times (20). 

6th Row: [4 hdc, 2 hdc in one loop]*repeat 4 times (24). 

7th Row: Switch to peach yarn. 

3 hdc, [2 hdc in one loop, 5 hdc]*repeat 3 times, 2 hdc in one loop, 2 hdc (28). 

8th Row: 2 hdc, [2 hdc in one loop, 6 hdc]*repeat 3 times, 2 hdc in one loop, 4 hdc (32). 

9th Row: hdc, [2 hdc in one loop, 7 hdc]*repeat 3 times, 2 hdc in one loop, 6 hdc (36). 

10th Row: Switch to peach yarn. 

[2 hdc in one loop, 8 hdc]*repeat 4 times (40). 

11th Row: [9 hdc, 2 hdc in one loop]*repeat 4 times (44). 

12th Row: 8 hdc, [2 hdc in one loop, 10 hdc]*repeat 3 times, 2 hdc in one loop, 2 hdc (48). 

13th Row: Switch to peach yarn. 

7 hdc, [2 hdc in one loop, 11 hdc]*repeat 3 times, 2 hdc in one loop, 4 hdc (52). 

14th Row: 6 hdc, [2 hdc in one loop, 12 hdc]*repeat 3 times, 2 hdc in one loop, 6 hdc (56). 

15th Row: 5 hdc, [2 hdc in one loop, 13 hdc]*repeat 3 times, 2 hdc in one loop, 8 hdc (60). 

16th Row: Switch to peach yarn. 

4 hdc, [2 hdc in one loop, 14 hdc]*repeat 3 times, 2 hdc in one loop, 10 hdc (64). 

Secure the peach thread, hide it, and cut it. 

17th Row: 64 hdc (64). 

18th Row: 17 hdc, 6 chains, skip 6 loops of the base, 21 hdc, 6 chains, skip 6 loops of the base, 14 hdc (64). 

19th Row: 17 sc, 6 sc in the chain space, 21 sc, 6 sc in the chain space, 14 sc (64). 

Cut the green thread, secure it, and hide it. 

Put the cap on the doll. Your amigurumi elf girl is ready! 

The post Create a Festive Christmas Elf Girl Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns.

Abbreviations  

alt – alternate  

approx – approximately  

beg – begin/beginning  

bet — between  

BL – back loop  

ch – chain stitch  

ch- – refers to a ch space previously made:  

e.g., ch-1 space  

cm – centimeter(s)  

cont — continue  

Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr)  

Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together  (decrease)  

Dec – decreases(s)  

ea – each  

FL – front loop(s)  

FO – fasten off  

hdc – half double crochet  

hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches  

together  

inc – increase  

lp(s) – loops  

mm – millimeter(s)  

oz – ounce(s)  

pl – place  

prev – previous  

rem – remaining  

rep – repeat(s)  

rnd(s) – round(s)  

RS – right side  

sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)  

sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together  

sk – skip  

Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)  

Sp(s) – space(s)  

St – stitch  

tog — together  

WS — wrong side  

Yd(s) – yard(s)  

YO – yarn over  

Yoh – yarn over hook  

Materials and Supplies: 

(Santa is approximately 12 inches tall, or 30 cm)  

• Sport or DK weight yarn, such as Red Heart Sport or Paton’s Astra: Peach or  light pink for skin (50 yds), red (175 yds), soft white (150 yds), green (100 yds),  black (75 yds), and small amounts of gray or gold. Red Heart Sport was used for  the model.  

• Size C crochet hook (2 –2.75mm)  

• Two 1/2 ” (13 mm) buttons for backpack in color of choice  

• Five 25 mm plastic disk sets  

• One ½” (13 mm) jingle bell (optional)  

• Hemostat, tweezers, or other stuffing tool of choice  

• Mohair finger brush or stiff toothbrush for brushing up “fur”  

• Two 9 mm plastic eyes (I prefer the plastic backs to the metal because the metal  ones tend to show between the stitches)  

• Stuffing  

• Needles: 5-inch (18 cm) doll needle, blunt tapestry needle (these are suggestions;  use the needles that work best for you.)  

Gage: Gage is not important as long as the same size thread and hook are used for all the  pattern pieces. However, since tension can vary in different circumstances, it is  suggested that when making two pieces that must be the same, such as arms and legs, that  you complete both in one sitting.  

Special Instructions:  

Adjustable Ring: Grasp the yarn between your thumb and forefinger, leaving a tail at  the beginning. Wrap the thread over and around the index finger clockwise, crossing the  thread at the top of the finger. Insert the hook underneath the front thread that you just  crossed, then catch the back thread with the hook, and pull a loop of the back thread from  underneath. Slip the loop off the finger, grasping the working end in the left hand as if to  begin crocheting. Chain 1, work number of stitches required into the ring. Pull up a long  loop, then, grasping the stitches just made with the right hand and tail with left (or vice  versa), pull to tighten ring. Insert hook into long loop and tighten back against  hook. Making sure tail is to the back, skip first chain worked and continue working  pattern.  

Dc2tog: Decrease in double crochet: *YOH and insert hook into next stitch, YO and  pull up a loop, YOH and pull through 2 loops on hook; ** repeat * to ** once, YOH and  pull through remaining loops on hook.  

Weaving/hiding loose thread ends: When making the doll, you can hide the loose ends  by pulling them to the inside of the piece with a tapestry needle. Pass the needle through  the piece 2 or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out between  stitches, being careful not to catch any fabric), then pull the thread taut, and clip close to  the surface so that it disappears inside.  

For other pattern pieces, it’s best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you  can’t hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long  enough to enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always  leave a tail that is long enough to thread onto a needle and weave.  

To weave loose ends: Thread the tail onto a needle. Working on the WS of the piece  and beginning directly beneath the place where you fastened off, insert the needle underneath and through the upper loops of fabric for a length of 4 or 5 stitches, and then  turn and repeat through 2 or 3 of the same stitches in the opposite direction.  

PATTERN 

HEAD:  

1. Begin with an adjustable ring, make 6 sc in ring OR ch 2 with skin color, 6 sc in 2nd ch  from hook; do not join. Use a piece of contrasting thread as a rnd marker.  

2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)  

3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)  

4. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)  

5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 9 times. (27 sc)  

6. Sc in ea sc around. (27 sc)  

7. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 9 times. (36 sc)  

8 – 12. Sc in ea sc around. (36 sc)  

13. Sc in next 15 sc, sl st loosely in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, sl st loosely in next 2  sc, sc in next 15 sc. (32 sc, 4 sl st)  

14. Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 5 st, sc in next 2 sc, 2  sc in ea of next 5 st, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 5 sc. (42 sc)  

15. Sc in ea sc around. (42 sc)  

16. Sc2tog, sc in next 18 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 18 sc, sc2tog. (39 sc)  

17. Sc in next 8 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc. (33 sc)  

18. Sc in ea sc around. (33 sc)  

• Stuff head through rnd 11.  

• Insert the eyes now. There is a stitch pattern on the front of the face where you made  “2 sl st, 2sc, 2 sl st”. Place the eyes so that the pins are inserted between rnds 12 and 13,  putting the first eye into the 1st slip stitch of the first group of 2 slip stitches, and the  second eye into the 2nd slip stitch of the second group. The bottom edge of the eyes  should touch the top edge of rnd 14. Insert the eye’s pin between stitches, then reach  inside the head and firmly push the metal or plastic backing onto the eye pin. If you  have an eye placement disaster, you can pull out the stitches all the way back to the stitch  just after the last eye you come to. The eyes will come out with the stitches as you get to  them, and you can begin crocheting again from this point. You won’t be able to use these  eyes again, however.  

19. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times.  (24 sc)  

• Continue stuffing.  

20. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times,  sc2tog. (16 sc)  

• Make sure the cheeks are filled out nicely.  

21. Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog 5 times, sc in next 3 sc. (11 sc)  

• Finish stuffing head.  

• Insert one of the plastic disks inside the bottom head opening, with its pin protruding  downward.  

22. Sc2tog 5 times; FO with sl st in next sc. (5 sc)  

• Hide loose end using method described in “Special Instructions” above.  

You may alternatively sew the head and limbs to the body, in which case you will  omit the jointing steps.  

FACIAL FEATURES  

Nose:  

1. With same thread as head, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch; ch 1, turn. (3  sc)  

2. Sc in ea of the next 3 sc, ch 1, turn.  

3. Sc in ea of the next 3 sc; FO, leaving long end.  

• Using the long end, sew a row of gathering stitches around all 4 sides of the piece, as  close to the edge as possible, and only catching one thread with each stitch. Pull the end  to gather and close after putting a tiny bit of stuffing inside. Using the same thread, sew  the nose to the face, with the top edge of the nose centered between the eyes.  

Eyebrows (Make 2):  

1. Using one strand of white ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 4 ch; turn. (5 sc)  

2. Sk 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc, sl st in last sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing eyebrow to  face. (3 sc, sl st)  

• The “furring” is optional; gently brush the eyebrows until they are slightly fuzzy,  always brushing in one direction, away from what will be the inside edge. Trim any  unruly ends, and then pin the brows above the eyes in the desired location. Carefully sew  them to the face using the long tail remaining from row 2.  

LEFT EAR:  

1. Ch 2 with skin color, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)  

2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sl st in last sc; FO, leaving long  end for sewing. (10 sc, sl st)  

RIGHT EAR:  

1. Ch 2 with skin color, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook; turn. (8 sc)  

2. Sl st in 1st sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc; FO, leaving long  end for sewing. (10 sc, sl st)  

• To place the doll’s left ear, count about 6 sc back from the outer edge of the eye and  place the vertical inside edge of the ear here, with the center of the ear lying on the line  between rnds 12 and 13. Because of the slight difference in the horizontal line caused by  working in rounds, you will need to place the right ear down just a bit, with the center of  the ear lying ON rnd 13. Sew ear to head. Keep your stitching between rows 1 and 2, so  that the edges of the ears will come away from the head like real ears do.  

MUSTACHE (MAKE 2 PIECES):  

1. With one strand of white, ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 5 sc, sl st in last ch;  turn. (6 sc, sl st)  

2. Sk sl st, sl st in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, sl st in last sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing  to head. Row 2 is front of mustache. (4 sc, 2 sl st)  

• Brush up the mustache as you did the eyebrows. Trim unruly ends if needed. Pin in  place, with the ends of the two pieces meeting below the center of the nose. Sew to face.  

HAIR:  

1. Ch 21 with white, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 19 sc; ch 1, turn. (20 sc)  

2 – 3. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (20 sc)  

4. Sk 1st sc, sc in next 18 sc, sl st in last sc, FO, leaving long end for sewing to head. (18  sc, sl st)  

• Row 4 is the right side. Brush up and trim hair. Pin hair to head with the right side  out, across lower back of head, with top of each end being just slightly above an ear,  curving downward in the middle like a smile. Do not sew in place yet.  

LEFT ARM:  

1. With green ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 5 ch, moving to opposite side of  chain, sc in next 6 free lps; do not join, place rnd marker. (12 sc)  

2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)  

3. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)  

4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc) twice. (20 sc)  

5 – 7. Sc in ea sc around. (20 sc)  

8. Sc2tog, sc in next sc, ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc. (16 sc, 3 ch)  

9. Sc in next 2 sc, sc in BL of next 3 ch, sc in both lps of next 14 sc. (19 sc)  

10. Sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc; FO with sl st in next sc. (17 sc)  

Thumb:  

1. With wrist opening toward you, join green with sc in 1st free lp of ch-3 on rnd 8, sc in  next 2 free lps, sc in side of sc bet top and bottom of thumb opening, continue around and  sc in next 2 sc, sc in side of sc bet top and bottom of thumb opening, do not join. (7 sc)  

2. Sc in ea sc around. (7 sc)  

3. Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, FO with sl st in next sc leaving long end for closing end of  thumb – do not work last sc. (5 sc, sl st)  

• Sew gathering stitches around rnd 3; pull to close the thumb end; FO, hide end by  pulling to inside of thumb. Stuff hand.  

11. Resume arm; join red with sc in next sc on hand, sc in ea st around. (17 sc)  

12. Sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc. (18 sc)  

13 – 20. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)  

21. Sl st loosely in next 5 sc, sc in next 13 sc. (5 sl st, 13 sc)  

22 – 23. Sc in ea st around. (18 sc)  

24. Sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc. (19 sc)  

25 – 29. Sc in ea sc around. (19 sc)  

• Stuff arm through rnd 24. Bend arm slightly inward where the 5 slip stitches are made  on rnd 21. Find the center of the inside of the bottom end of the hand, and follow a line  upward to the center of the inside of the upper arm; mark with a pin or thread. Insert a  plastic disk inside the top of the arm, pushing its plastic pin through to the outside  between rnds 28 and 29, at the point where the marker identifies the center. Finish  stuffing to the top of the arm to ensure that you have centered the joint on the inside of  the arm (remember that the thumbs face forward). If the placement is wrong, remove the  stuffing and reposition the pin.  

30. Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (17 sc)  

31. Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (15 sc)  

32. Sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc; sl st in next 4 sc, or to  the side edge of the arm, FO, leaving long end for closing the end of the arm. (13 sc)  

• Finish stuffing. Stuff the last 8 rows fairly lightly, keeping the top of the arm flat so it  won’t stick out too much from the shoulder. The arm is wider front-to-back.  Sew the arm seam using a ladder (see illustration below) or oversew stitch. It makes a  neater stitch if you sew using the BL’s only of the sc’s on each side, going in the outer  loop of the left side, across and through the outer loop of the opposite side, then reverse  and go in the outer loop of the right side, across and through the outer loop of the  opposite side.  

RIGHT ARM:  

1 – 4. Repeat 1 – 4 of left arm.  

5 – 6. Sc in ea sc around. (20 sc)  

7. Sc in next 18 sc, ch 3, sk next 2 sc. (18 sc, ch-3)  

8. Sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc. (16 sc, 3 ch)  

9. Sc in BL of next 3 ch, sc in next 16 sc. (19 sc) Ladder Stitch  

10. Sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc; FO with sl st in next sc.  (17 sc)  

Thumb: 

Work same as for left arm.  

11. Resume arm; join red with sc in next sc on hand, sc in ea st around. (17 sc)  

12. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 15 st. (18 sc)  

13 – 19. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)  

20. Sc in next 17 sc, sl st loosely in next sc. (17 sc, sl st)  

21. Sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 14 st. (4 sl st, 14 sc)  

22 – 23. Sc in ea st around. (18 sc)  

24. Sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc. (19 sc)  

25 – 29. Sc in ea sc around. (19 sc)  

• Stuff and insert joint using instructions for left arm, except that you will insert the joint  pin between rnds 27 and 28, rather than 28 and 29.  

30 – 32. Repeat 30 – 32 of left arm.  

• Finish same as left arm.  

CUFFS (MAKE 2):  

1. With white ch 22 (or to fit around your doll’s wrist), join with sl st in 1st ch to form a  ring, ch 1, sc in same ch as joining and in next 21 ch; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not  turn. (22 sc)  

2 – 3. Sc in ea sc across; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (22 sc)  

4. Sc in ea sc across; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO, leaving a long end for sewing the cuff.  (22sc)  

• Brush up the cuff to make it a bit fuzzy.  

• With WS out, slip the cuff over the hand to fit around the wrist, and carefully and sew  the cuff to the arm.  

LEGS (MAKE 2):  

Boots:  

1. Ch 10 with black, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 7 ch, 2 sc in last ch, moving  around to opposite side of ch, 2 sc in 1st free lp, sc in next 7 free lps, 2 sc in last free lp;  do not join, place rnd marker. (22 sc)  

2. 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea  of next 2 sc. (32 sc)  

3. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times, 2  sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc. (41 sc)  

4. Sc in BL of ea sc around. (41 sc)  

5 – 7. Sc in ea sc around. (41 sc)  

8. Sc in next sc, place rnd marker for beginning of rnd here (moving the starting point  does NOT change the total stitch count), sc in next 13 sc, sc2tog 8 times, sc in next 12 sc.  (33 sc)  

9. Sc in next 10 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc. (28 sc)  

10. Sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog 4 times, sc in next 10 sc. (24 sc)  

11. Sc in next sc, place rnd marker for beginning of rnd here, sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog, sc in  next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc. (22 sc)  

12 – 15. Sc in ea sc around. (22 sc)  

16. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc) twice. (24 sc)  

17 – 18. Sc in ea sc around; after rnd 18, FO black with sl st in next sc. (24 sc)  

• Stuff foot; keep bottom as flat as possible.  

Leg:  

19. With RS facing, join red with sc at ctr back of boot, sc around; do not join. (24 sc)  

20 – 28. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)  

29. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, (sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc) twice. (22  sc)  

30. (Sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc) twice. (20 sc)  

Place a leg joint disk, pin outward, against the inner side of the leg just under the top  loops of rnd 31, centered vertically on the inner leg. Note where the pin should lie, and  insert the joint inside the top of the leg. Push through between stitches at the point noted.  

Careful: When you insert the joint for the 2nd leg, make sure that you have both joints  on the inner side of the leg. Place the 2 legs next to each other with the pins inserted,  and see that both boots are facing forward when the joint pins are together.  

31. (Sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc) twice; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for sewing.  

• The top edge of the disk should rest just below the loops of rnd 31. Finish stuffing the  leg, with the top 4 rnds stuffed lightly so that the leg won’t stick out from the side of the  body too severely. The leg should not be round, but oval shaped, with the wider part of  the oval being from front to back. The top of the leg will be sewn together with the seam  running front to back. Close the leg opening using ladder stitch or oversew stitch.  

CUFFS (MAKE ONE FOR EACH LEG):  

1. With white ch 32, or number needed to fit loosely around leg at boot top; being careful  not to twist the chain, join with sl st in 1st ch, ch 1, sc in same ch as joining and in ea ch  around; ch 1, do not turn. (32 sc)  

2 – 3. Sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. FO at end of rnd 3.  (32 sc)  

• The WS will face out. Brush WS until slightly fuzzy. Slip cuff onto the leg and pin to  leg around top of boot, covering the line where the boot and leg join. Sew cuff to leg,  easing evenly to fit. (Easing means to pin or sew while using your fingers to adjust  adjoining pieces that are not the same length so they match up.)  

BODY:  

1. Ch 11 with red, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 9 ch; moving around to opposite  side of ch, sc in next 10 free lps; do not join. (20 sc)  

2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 10 times. (30 sc)  

3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 10 times. (40 sc)  

4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times, 2 sc in next sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2  sc) 10 times. (54 sc)  

5. Sc in ea sc around. (54 sc)  

6. Sc in next 54 sc; remove rnd marker, sc in next 3 sc, replace rnd marker. This changes  the beginning point for the rounds, and does NOT change the total stitch count. (54 sc)  

7. Sc in ea sc around. (54 sc)  

8. (Sc in next 25 sc, sc2tog) twice. (52 sc)  

• Insert pin protruding from the bottom of the head through the center of rnd 1until head  is flush with body fabric. Place the plain disk onto the pin and, and then place the lock  washer onto the pin; push flush against the fabric to lock in place.  

9. (Sc in next 24 sc, sc2tog) twice. (50)  

10. Sc2tog, sc in next 20 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 26 sc. (48 sc)  

11. Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 16 sc, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 20 sc,  sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc. (62 sc)  

12 – 13. Sc in ea sc around. (62 sc)  

14. Sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 24 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 28 sc. (60 sc)  

15. Sc in ea sc around. (60 sc)  

16. Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 24 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 27 sc. (58 sc)  

ATTACH ARMS:  

Both sides: Look for the left end of the foundation chain, then count 8 rnds straight down  the side of the doll from that point. Insert the joint pin (remember that the thumbs point  forward) between stitches, between rnds 8 and 9. Insert some stuffing into the body so  that the shoulders are filled out in order to check for arm positioning. If the position  looks right, push the plain disk onto the pin, then the lock washer; push until locked into  place flush against the fabric. If positioning is not right, remove the stuffing and  reposition the joints. Repeat until the arm placement looks pleasing.  

17 – 19. Sc in ea sc around. (58 sc)  

20. Sc2tog, sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 30 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next  

18 sc. (54 sc)  

21. Sc2tog twice, sc in next 28 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 18 sc. (50 sc)  

22. Sc in next sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 10 times, sc in next sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 6  times. (34 sc)  

23. Sc in ea sc around. (34 sc)  

24. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 5 times, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc. (28 sc)  

25. Sc in ea sc around. (28 sc)  

• Stuff upper body.  

26. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 7 times. (21 sc)  

27 – 28. Sc in ea sc around. (21 sc)  

ATTACH LEGS:  

Both sides: Raise the arms until they are pointing straight forward. The back of the leg  will be placed directly below the back edge of the arm as it is now positioned (the top end  when the arms are down). Insert the joint pin (remember that the toes of the boots point  forward), between stitches, between rnds 24 and 25. If the position looks right, push the  disks onto the pins until locked in place.  

29. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 7 times. (14 sc)  

• Finish stuffing the body.  

30. Sc2tog 7 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for sewing. (7 sc)  

• Add more stuffing if needed.  

• Thread a needle with the long end; run a gathering stitch in and out of the outer loops  of rnd 30. Pull tightly to gather. Secure end and cut thread. Pull end inside body to  hide.  

JACKET SKIRT:  

1. Ch 67, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across; do not join; ch 1, turn. (66 sc) The  piece will be longer around than the doll’s waist.  

2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc) 3 times, (sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 3 times; ch  1, turn. (72 sc)  

3. (Sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 3 times, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc) 3 times; ch  1, turn. (78 sc)  

4 – 5. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (78 sc)  

6. (Sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 3 times, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc) 3 times; ch  1, turn. (84 sc)  

7 – 8. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (84 sc)  

9. (Sc in next 13 sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 13 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in  next 13 sc; FO. (91 sc) Row 9 is WS.  

10. “Fur” trim: With WS facing, join white with sc in 1st sc, sc in same pl, (2 sc in next  sc, sc in next 14 sc) 6 times, 2 sc in last sc; FO. (98 sc)  

11 – 13. Rejoin white with sc in 1st sc of previous row, sc in ea sc across; FO. (98 sc)  

• Brush “fur” trim until fuzzy. Trim as needed.  

• Sew a row of gathering stitches across the top edge of the skirt using the free loops of  the foundation chain: Insert the needle through the first free lp from the RS, then turn the  needle and go into the next free lp from the WS; continue in this manner across the top  edge of the skirt; do not fasten off or secure the thread yet.  

• Wrap the skirt around the body between the 13th and 14th rnds up from the center of the  bottom of the doll, and with the two ends meeting at center front. Pin the front edges in  place, then pull the gathering thread until the piece fits around the body. Distribute the  fullness evenly around. Pin the center of the back in place, and the sides, then fasten off  and secure the end of the gathering thread. Sew the skirt in place.  

JACKET FRONT “FUR” TRIM (MAKE 2):  

1. Leave a long tail at the beginning. With white ch 32 (or number required to fit down  front of jacket from chin to bottom front edge); sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch  across; FO with sl st in same pl as last sc. (31 sc)  

2. Rejoin white with sc in 1st sc from previous row, sc in ea sc across; FO with sl st in  same pl as last sc. (32 sc)  

3. Repeat row 2; FO with sl st in same place as last sc, leaving a long tail for sewing, if  desired. (32 sc)  

• Brush until trim is slightly fuzzy. With WS facing up, pin a piece of the trim to each side  of the front of the jacket, beginning at the bottom edge of the skirt, keeping the outer edge  flush with the outer edge of the jacket skirt, and continuing straight up to the chin. Sew the trim to the jacket skirt and body, easing in any fullness. Beginning just above the  skirt, the two pieces should be flush against each other running up the front.  

COLLAR:  

1. With white ch 31, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across; turn. (30 sc)  

2. Sl st in 1st sc, sc in same pl, sc in next sc, hdc in next 26 sc, sc in next sc, (sc, sl st) in  last sc; ch 1, turn. (26 hdc, 4 sc, 2 sl st)  

3. 2 hdc in next sl st, (hdc in next 5 st, 2 hdc in next st) twice, hdc in next 4 st, (2 hdc in  next st, hdc in next 5 st) twice, 2 hdc in last sl st, ch 1, sl st in same pl; FO. (36 hdc)  

• Brush collar to bring up fuzziness. Tack collar to body around head, with top front  placed together just underneath the chin.  

BELT:  

1. With black ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (3 sc)  

2 – 59. Sc in next 3 sc, ch 1, turn. (3 sc) (The belt should fit around Santa’s waist with  about ½ inch overlapping. Add or subtract rows if necessary)  

60. Sc in next sc, hdc in next sc, sc in next sc; FO with sl st in same pl as last sc. (2 sc,  hdc)  

• Place the belt around the waist, with the bottom edge flush against the top edge of the  jacket skirt, overlapping the end of row 60 over the 1st few rows. Sew belt to body around  bottom edge.  

Belt Buckle: Ch 20 with dark yellow, gold, or gray, join to form a ring, being careful not  to twist the chain; ch 1, 2 sc in same ch as joining, (sc in next 4 ch, 2 sc in next ch) 3  times, sc in next 4 ch; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO leaving long end. Sewing just inside  inner edge of buckle, sew to front center of belt.  

BEARD:  

Top Piece:  

1. With white ch 31; sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 29 ch; FO with sl st in same pl as  last sc. (30 sc) This is the RS.  

2. With RS facing, sk 5 sc, rejoin white with sl st in next sc, sc in next sc, hdc in next 7  sc, 2 hdc in ea of next 2 sc, hdc in next 7 sc, sc in next sc, sl st in next sc, FO. (2 sl st, 2  sc, 18 hdc)  

3. With RS facing, rejoin white with sl st in 1st sl st on previous row, ch 1, sc in next sc,  hdc in same pl, 2 hdc in ea of next 18 hdc, hdc in next sc, sc in same pl, sl st in last sl st;  FO. (38 hdc, 2 sc, 2 sl st)  

4. With RS facing, rejoin white with sc in 1st sl st, sc in next 4 st, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in  next st, hdc in next st, sc in next 3 st) twice, 2 hdc in ea of next 8 st, (sc in next 3 st, hdc  in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st) twice, sc in next 5 st, sl st in same pl as last sc;  FO. (22 sc, 30 hdc)  

Bottom Piece:  

1. With white ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 19 ch; ch 1, turn. (20 sc)  

2. Sl st in next sc, sc in next sc, hdc in next 7 sc, 2 hdc in ea of next 2 sc, hdc in next 7  sc, sc in next sc, sl st in next sc, ch 1, turn. (2 sl st, 2 sc, 18 hdc)  

3. Sl st in 1st sl st, sc in next sc, hdc in same pl, 2 hdc in ea of next 18 hdc, hdc in next sc,  sc in same pl, sl st in last sl st; ch 1, turn. (38 hdc, 2 sc, 2 sl st)  

4. Sc in 1st sl st, sc in next 4 st, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next  3 st) twice, 2 hdc in ea of next 8 st, (sc in next 3 st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in  next st) twice, sc in next 5 st, sl st in last sl st; FO. (sl st, 22 sc, 30 hdc)  

• The WS of the top piece will be the front of the beard. Sew the two pieces together, matching up stitches, with the WS of the top piece out. ( It doesn’t matter which side of  the bottom piece is out.) Sew all the way around the beard, top and bottom, omitting the  sideburns of course. Pause every inch or so to put a little bit of stuffing into the lower ¾  of the beard.  

• Use a pink pencil, eye shadow, or blush to shade the cheeks just below and to the  outside of the eyes, the tip of the nose, the lips, and just inside the ears. To give his eyes  some twinkle, put a tiny dab of white or sparkly nail polish in the center of each eye. To  add character to his face, use a very fine tip black marker and dot a tiny line around the  top half of each eye. Then use a light brown pencil or some eye shadow to shade in a  very narrow arc around each eye.  

• Brush the beard until it is as fuzzy as you want it. Pin beard to face, with one end of  sideburns touching the front edge of the hair on each side, and having the top of the  beard touching the mustache, but leaving a small area beneath the center of the mustache  for the mouth. Sew hair and beard in place.  

HAT:  

1. With red ch 40, join with sl st in 1st ch, being careful not to twist the chain, ch 1, sc in  ea ch around; do not join. (40 sc)  

2 – 4. Sc in ea sc around. (40 sc)  

5. (Sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc) 5 times. (35 sc)  

6 – 7. Sc in ea sc around. (35 sc)  

8. (Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc) 5 times. (30 sc)  

9 – 10. Sc in ea sc around. (30 sc)  

11. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) 5 times. (25 sc)  

12. Sc in ea sc around. (25 sc)  

13. Sc in FL of next 13 sc, sc in both lps of next 12 sc. (25 sc)  

14. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 5 times. (20 sc)  

15 – 16. Sc in ea sc around. (20 sc)  

17. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times. (15 sc)  

18 – 19. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)  

20. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times. (10 sc)  

21 – 22. Sc in ea sc around. (10 sc)  

23. Sc2tog around. (5 sc)  

24. Sc in ea sc around; FO with sl st in next sc. (5 sc)  

Pompom:  

25. Working all rnds from the WS, join white with sc in next sc, sc in same pl; 2 sc in ea  

st around; do not join. (10 sc)  

26. 2 sc in ea sc around. (20 sc)  

27. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 10 times. (30 sc)  

28 – 30. Sc in ea sc around. (30 sc)  

31. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)  

32. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)  

33. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (18 sc)  

34. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 6 times. (12 sc)  

• Stuff the pompom until it’s a nice orb shape, but not firm.  

35. Sc2tog 6 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing. (6 sc)  

• Sew a row of gathering stitches in and out of the FL of the rnd 35 sc; pull to close. FO  securely, and hide the thread end inside the pompom. Brush the pompom until it is fuzzy.  

Fur Hat Trim:  

1. Join white with sc in 1st free lp at bottom edge of hat, sc in same pl, sc in next 7 free  lps, (2 sc in next free lp, sc in next 7 free lps) 4 times; do not join. (45 sc)  

2. Sc in BL of ea sc around. (45 sc)  

3. Resume working in both lps, (sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 5 times. (50 sc)  

4 – 5. Sc in ea sc around. (50 sc)  

6. Sc in ea sc around, FO, leaving long end for sewing top edge to hat.  

• Brush up the WS of the trim until fuzzy. Fold the trim up along the ridge between rnds  1 and 2 where you worked in the BL. Pin the trim to the hat around, and then tack in  place along the upper edge.  

• Find the line of 13 stitches on rnd 13 which you worked in the FL; fold the top end of  the hat downward along this line; tack in place. Place hat on Santa’s head; tacking to  head if desired.  

SANTA’S BACKPACK: 

(TURNING CH-3 COUNTS AS 1ST DC)  

1. Ch 21 with green, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 18 ch, 2 sc in last ch; move  around to opposite side of ch and 2 sc in 1st free lp, sc in next 18 free lps, 2 sc in last free  lp; do not join, pl rnd marker. (44 sc)  

2. Sc in next row end, sc in next sc, turn corner and make 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 18  sc, 2 sc in next sc, turn corner and sc in row end, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next  20 sc, turn corner and sc in row end; do not join. (50 sc)  

3. Sc in next 3 sc, sc in next row end, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 19 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc  in next row end, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next row end, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 21 sc; join  with sl st in BL of 1st sc; ch 1, do not turn. (55 sc, sl st)  

4. Sc in BL of same pl as turning and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 3, do not  turn. (56 sc)  

5 – 10. (Ch-3 counts as 1st dc) Dc in ea sc around; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 3,  do not turn. FO after row 10. (56 sc)  

11. Join red with sc in same pl as joining on row 10, sc in next dc and in ea dc around;  join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (56 sc)  

12. Sc in same pl as joining, and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (56 sc)  

13. Begin flap: With RS facing and working this row in BL, sk 6 sc after joining on row  

12, join green with sc in next sc, sc in next 20 sc, ch 3, turn. (21 sc)  

14 – 15. Resume working in both lps, dc in next sc and in ea sc across; ch 3, turn. (21  dc)  

16. Dc in ea dc across; ch 1, turn. (21 dc)  

17. Sc across; ch 1, turn. (21 dc)  

18. Sc in FL of ea sc across; ch 3, turn. (21 sc)  

19. Dc in ea st across; ch 3, turn. (21 sc)  

20. Dc in ea st across; ch 2, turn. (21 sc)  

21. Sk 1st dc, dc2tog, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 11 sc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc  in next 2 dc, dc2tog; FO. (16 dc, 2 ch-1 sp)  

22. With RS facing, join red with sl st in the same sc on row 13 where you joined green  for row 14; working up the right edge of flap, sc in next row end (sc row), (2 sc in next  row end) 3 times, sc in next 2 row ends, (2 sc in next row end) twice, sc in next row end (side of ch-2), turn the corner and make 2 sc in top of ch-2; working in BL, sc in next 2  dc, sc in next ch-1, sc in next 11 dc, sc in next ch-1, sc in next 2 dc, 2 sc in last dc, turn  the corner, and working down the left edge of flap, sc in next row end, (2 sc in next row  end) twice, sc in next 2 row ends, (2 sc in next row end) 3 times, sc in last row end; FO  with sl st in same sc on row 13 as edge of flap. (49 sc, 2 sl st)  

Bottom Trim:  

1. With end of backpack facing you and bottom up, join red with sc in 1st free lp on row  3 at right back edge of backpack, sc in ea sc around; FO. (54 sc)  

Straps: (Make 2) Leave long tail on each end for sewing to backpack.  

1. Ch 3 with green, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)  

2 – 30. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. FO after row 30. (2 sc)  

Sew straps to backpack: With the back side of the backpack facing you and holding a  strap horizontally beneath the back edge of the flap, pin the end of the strap in place with  the top of the long edge abutting the bottom of the 1st red row, and with the short end  placed directly below the inside edge of the red trim of the flap. Hold the opposite end of  the strap and curve it into a “U” shape, being careful not to twist the strap, and pin it in  place two rows straight down from the first end. Sew strap end in place. Repeat the  process for the other strap, reversing the placement.  

• The ridge formed by working row 18 in the FL is the point at which the flap folds down  over the front of the backpack. Line up this ridge over the top edge of the front, and mark  the location on the front for the buttons. Sew a button to the front of the backpack  beneath the buttonholes on each side.  

• Fill backpack with small pieces of wadded gift wrap or tissue paper. 

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