Chubby Doll Amigurumi Free Pattern

The best quality of free amigurumi patterns are on this site. I shared with you the amigurumi chubby doll pattern in this article. 

We need:  

-Yarn for the torso Jeans from YarnArt (50grow) 160m) – number 03 (beige) or 73 (peach). The same brand is a little white for socks, any color of your choice for shoes and contrasting for the sole.  

-A little yarn for the backpack.  

– Yarn for hair acrylic Anti-Pilling from Kartopu (100gr-160m) or any other at your discretion.  

-Yarn for blouses and sundresses – Etamin from Ayda (30g-180m) or can be replaced with any other fine yarn.  

– Hooks number: 1.75 for the body of the doll, number 1.1 for clothes, number 3 for a backpack, 0.8 for knitting a mouth  

-Pencils or sushi sticks. They are necessary for winding curls.  

-A hair straightener. Can be replaced with an ordinary iron.  

-Long tightening needle, strong thread to match the yarn color or dental floss  


-Glue Moment Crystal, or other transparent glue, as you used to work  

-Pupils (1 – 1.2cm), or half beads, false eyelashes, a little white felt for the white of the eyes  

-Pastel for tinting (can be replaced with dry shadows and blush), brushes.  

– A small piece of thick wire (3.5-4mm) for attaching the head to the body and slightly thinner for the arms  

– Thick cardboard for insoles  

– decoration to create the image you have conceived.  


ch – chain 

sc single crochet  

dc – double crochet  

hdc- half double crochet  

inc- increase  

dec- decrease  

d2c double crochet  

sl-st-slip stitch 

V – in one loop – 1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc  

My whole doll is knitted inside out, but if you prefer to knit in the face, instructions are given for you specially in the description. So, you can choose your own knitting option.  


(We knit in a circle with the wrong side, it is not necessary to follow the marker)  

1 row) 6 sc in amigurumi ring  

2 row) 1 inc x 6 times -12 sc  

3 row) (sc, 1 inc) x 6 times – 18 sc  

4 row) sc, inc, (2 sc, 1 inc) x 5 times, sc – 24 sc  

5 row) (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 times – 30 sc  

6 row) 2sc, inc, (4sc, 1 inc) x 5 times, 2sc – 36 sc  

7 row) (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 times – 42 sc  

8 row) 3sc, inc, (6 sc, 1 inc) x 5 times, 3sc – 48 sc  

9 row) (7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 times – 54 sc  

10-21row) – 54 sc  

22- (2 sc, 1 inc) x 9 times, 1 inc, (here we have cheeks), 26 sc- 64sc 23row) inc, 31sc, inc, 31sc – 66sc  

24-25 rows) 66 sc  

26 row) (9sc, 1 dec) x 6 times – 60 sc sc  

27 row) 4 sc, 1 dec, (8sc, dec) x 5 times, 4 sc – 54 sc  

28 row) (7 sc, 1 dec) x 6 times – 48 sc  

29 row) 3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) x 5 times, 3sc – 42sc  

30 row) (5sc, dec) x 6 times – 36sc  

We begin to stuff our head.  

31 row) 2 sc, 1 dec, (4sc, dec) х5 times, 2sc- 30sc sc  

32 row) (3sc, dec) x 6 times -24sc  

33row) sc, dec, (2sc, dec) х 5 times, sc – 18sc  

We finally fill our head. The cheek areas should be well filled, but not overcrowded.  

Next, we knit a part that will go into the head. You don’t need to fill it.  

34 row) 18sc for the front half-loop (if you knit on the front side, therefore knit for the back half-loop. Next, we knit 6 rows in a circle for both walls 18sc. We break off the thread and insert this part inside the head.  


We start knitting with the color of the sole. The marker runs along the center of the heel, if necessary, make offset loops.  

We collect 9 ch, we begin to knit from the second loop from the hook:  

1row) 7sc, 3sc single loop, 6sc, inc -18sc  

2row) inc, 6 sc, 3inc, 6sc, 2inc – 24sc  

3row) 1sc, inc, 6sc, (1sc, inc) x3 times, 6sc, (1sc, inc) x2 times -30sc  

4row) 2sc, inc, 6sc, (2sc, inc) х3 times, 6sc, (2sc, inc) х 2 times – 36sc  

5row) 3sc, inc, 6sc, (3sc, inc) x3 times, 6sc, (3sc, inc) x2 times-42sc.  

For the back half-loops (over the face for the front ones) we tie a shoe so that in the future there is a welt:  

(sc, ch) х to the end of the row, cancer step or sl-st at your discretion.  

We break the thread. Cut the insole to the shape of the sole.  

We fasten the thread in the color of the shoes.  

6row) we knit by the front (if knit on the face, then by the back) half loops 42sc  

7-8rows) – 42sc  

9row) 10 sc, dec, (2sc, dec) x5 times, 10sc-36sc  

10row) 9sc, dec, (1sc, dec) х5 times, 10sc -30 sc  

11row) we knit for the back half loops (on the face for the front ones): 9sc, 6dec, 9sc -24sc.  

We break the thread.  

We fasten the thread of the color of the socks for the free half-loops of the 11th row. Here we repeat exactly the 11th row, since after making the decreases in the back half-loops in the 11th row, the number of front ones remained unchanged, that is: 30sc. Hence:  

12row) 9 sc, 6dec, 9sc -24sc  

13row) 24sc, insert the insole and start filling the leg.  

14-15rows) – 24sc  

We break the thread. For the front half loop 16p we attach a thinner yarn and knit lace for socks with a hook 1.5: 3ch, (4dc in one loop, ch, skip one loop and knit sc in the next) x to the end of the row.  

Cut off the thread and attach the colors of the body:  

16row) 24sc for free half loops  

17-21rows) – 24sc  

22row) 10sc, 3 inc from hdc (these inc should be exactly in the center, we knit the knees), 11sc27loop  

23row) 10sc, 3 dec from hdc, 11sc- 24loops  

24-28rows) -24sc  

We cut the thread and fasten the thread in the color of the panties:  

29- 30rows) -24sc  

We break the thread. We knit the second leg in the same way, but we do not break the thread, we knit an additional 6 sc.  


1row) We hold the legs to ourselves with the toes (for face knitting with heels), from the second leg we collect 3ch and connect with the first with sc. The marker will continue to be on the back. We tie a jumper of three air loops on both sides.  

24sc on the first leg, 3sc on the jumper, 24sc on the other leg, 3sc on the jumper – 54 sc. We put a marker.  

2-3rows) -54sc Place the marker exactly in the middle of the back.  

4row) (7sc, dec) х6 times – 48sc  

5-8rows): 48sc  

9row) (6sc, dec) x 6 times-42sc  

We cut the thread and fasten the color of the body:  

10row) we knit for the front half loop (on the front for the back) 42sc Do not forget to fill as we knit. Next, we continue to knit for both walls  

11row) 42sc  

12row) (5sc, dec) x 6 times – 36sc  

13-20rows) -36sc  

21row) (4sc, dec) x6raz-30sc  

22-23rows) -30sc  

24row) 3sc, 11dec, 1sc, dec, 2sc- 18sc  

We take a piece of wire and bend one end into a hook. You can fix the ends with electrical tape. As a result, you should get a segment of 11-12 cm. We crochet it into the body.  

Thus, we have one end with the hook will enter the body, the other into the head.  

We continue to knit further.  

25-28rows): 18sc Well fill the neck and then knit around the wire, but don’t fill it.  

29row) dec x 9raz-8sc Next, tie the wire to the end in a circle 8sc. We cut the thread and tighten the hole with a needle.  


Right hand  

The marker runs along the rib, from the side of the little finger and elbow. If necessary, make offset loops.  

We pick up 5ch and knit from 2 loops:  

1row) 3 sc, 3 sc in the last st, on the other side knit 2 sc, inc – 10sc  

2- 4rows): 10 sc  

5row) 5 sc, 2 d2c with one vertex in one loop (thumb), 4 sc-10sc  

6row) 10sc  

7row) 10sl-st  

8row) 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc -12sc  

9-10rows): 12 sc  

11row) inc, 11 sc -13sc  

12row) 13 sc  

Fill the palm a little, then take a piece of wire about 10 cm. We bend one end into a hook and with this end we insert the wire into the handle.  

We stuff the rest of the handle in the knitting process.  

13row) inc (lokotok), 11sc, inc (lokotok) – 15sc  

14row) 2 hdc (elbow), 11 sc, 2 hdc (elbow) -15sc  

15row) dec, 11 sc, dec -13sc  

16row) 6 sc, inc, 6 sc -14sc  

17row) 14 sc  

18row) 6 sc, inc, 7 sc -15sc  

19row) 15 sc  

20row) 7 sc, inc, 7 sc- 16sc  

21row) 16 sc (cut off excess wire if the tip remains long)  

22row) 8 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec -14sc  

23row) 7 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec -12sc  

24row) 6dec. Finally, fill in the handle, tighten the remaining loops with a needle and hide the thread ..  

We knit the left handle in the same way.  


Attaching the head to the body  

To attach the turning head, take a long, strong thread with a long needle.  

Let’s pass the needle through the neck. Let’s put the head on the neck. Take another needle and thread the other end of the thread into it.  

With each needle we will enter the hole of the head and through the little head we will go out into the magic ring of the head. We tie the ends of the threads together several times and hide the ends.  

Thus, the head will be firmly fixed and will be able to rotate.  

To attach the handles, take the pins and set them on the sides of the body, rising from the panties by 14 rows (attach the handles to your body, perhaps they will be one row lower or higher). We will pass the needle with strong thread back and forth several times along the marked points. After that, with a thread fastening, we sew the handles into the grooves. ATTENTION! We grab only the inner part of the handles, without going through.  

Tightening and shaping the face Tightening the eye sockets Going down the 18th row from the beginning of the head, put a yellow pin, retreating 2 loops, put a blue one. Having retreated 5 loops from the yellow pin, we put the blue one, having retreated from it 2 loops, we put the white one. Under the chin, going down 11 rows from the pins for the eye sockets, parallel to the top pins, put red pins on both sides.  

We go into the red pin, after leaving the long end of the thread, we bring it to the yellow one, we put a stitch on the top, we go into the blue one and we go out again into the red pin from which we began to tighten the eye socket. We pull the ends of the threads tight enough, tie them into 2 knots and hide them in the head.  

Similarly, we make tightenings on the second side.  

Mouth tightening  

Going down to the 6th row from the eye sockets, at a distance of 2-3 loops from each other, set two pins.  

We go with the needle from the back of the head, leaving the long end of the thread and go out into one of the pins, put a stitch along the top and return again to the back of the head through another pin.  

We tighten the ends of the threads a little and, tying them, we hide them in the head.  

Do not worry if a small chadinka appears on the back of your head; when attaching your hair, we will close it.  


Cut out squirrels from felt and glue in place of the eye sockets.  

To do this, put the pupil on the felt, circle it, giving the chosen shape and cut it out.  

Make sure that your protein at the top does not come out from under the pupil, otherwise the doll will have a frightened expression on his face.  

We glue the proteins in the place of the eye sockets, and glue the pupils along the top.  

We embroider the nose with the same yarn as we knitted the head, stepping back from the eyes two rows down. We make some horizontal stitches.  

We tint the area near the eye sockets, cheeks and the area above the nose. We apply tinting a little bit. For the cheeks, take a larger brush.  

Then, using a toothpick, we glue the cilia, after cutting one cilia in half.  

Make sure that the hairs from the cilia look up and the length, from the inside of the eye to the outside, goes in ascending order.  

But, it is best to glue the cilia after the hairstyle, so as not to spoil them. For the mouth, take a floss in three folds and crochet 0.8-6SC INTO MAGIC RING. We hide the ends in the head, glue the mouth with glue and embroider the eyebrows.  

Pay attention to the color. If you have a doll with blond hair, you should not make black eyebrows.  

Also, you can embroider under the eyes with one stitch with the same yarn as the doll itself, imitating the lower eyelid.  


To make the curls, I used acrylic, and, winding straight from the skein, fix the yarn in a knot on a pencil or on a sushi stick. We wind it very tightly and also fix it with a knot at the end. Further, not very much, but evenly wet (you can use a spray bottle) and pass them well with a hair iron. We leave them to dry, and then we untwist them.  


1row) 6SC INTO MAGIC RING, turn (no lifting loops needed)  

2row) (1sc, inc) x3raza-9sc  

We fasten the thread and leave the end for sewing.  

Pin it with pins at eye level and sew on. Tint inside the ears.  

After the curls are ready, we cut them into equal lengths and fasten them to the head using the fringe method, starting from the back of the head at the level of the ears. At the beginning we fasten after 2 rows and after 1-2 loops. We fasten it more often on the crown. We go down to the forehead 5-6 rows from the beginning of knitting the head.  


We collect a chain of 35 ch, knit in rotary rows:  

1 row) from the second loop from the hook: 5 sc, v, 5 sc, v, 10 sc, v, 5 sc, v, 5sc – 42sc  

2 row) 3ch, 6 dc, V, 7 dc, V, 12 dc, V, 7 dc, V, 6 dc -54dc  

3 row) 3ch, 7 dc, V, 9 inc dc, V, 14 dc, V, 9 inc dc, V, 7 dc – 80dc  

4row) 3ch, 8dc, 1dc into the arch, 4ch, and entering the next arch we knit dc, 16dc, 1dc into the arch, 4ch and entering the next arch we knit 1dc, 8dc- 44dc  


Attach the thread to the sleeve and start attaching the thread under the arm:  

1-2rows) – 3ch, 28dc, sl-st  

3row) ch, dec from sc to end of row, sl-st  

4row) 3ch, knit V, sl-st into each loop.  

5row) 3ch, 44dc  

6row) 3ch, dc, (5dc, inc from dc) x 7 times, dc-51dc  

7row) 3ch, 51dc  

Tie sc around all edges of the blouse, making ch around all corners. We break the thread and hide it.  


We dial 52ch and close the ring. You may have different ch for the skirt. Cast on a chain that is equal to your doll’s waist just under the blouse.  

1-2rows) -ch, 52sc, sl-st  

3row) 2ch, 52inc from hdc, sl-st-104hdc  

Then we knit in a circle to the desired length:  

4-10rows), 2ch, 104hdc, sl-st  

We tie the skirt as follows:  

11row) ch, (sl-st, ch) x to the end of the row.  

We break the thread and hide it. We knit the second sleeve in the same way, sew on buttons and make loops.  

We break the thread and hide it.  

You can just leave a skirt, or you can continue to knit a sarafan.  

To do this, we attach the thread to the upper part of the skirt belt and knit 2 rows: ch, 52sc (or the number of sc that you typed for knitting the skirt). We break the thread and hide it.  

We find the central 24sc (you may have a slightly different number of loops, the main thing is that they are in the center of you), fasten the thread and knit with turning rows:  

1-3rows) – ch, 24sc.  

4row) ch, dec, 20sc, dec-22sc  

5row) ch, dec, 18sc, dec-20sc  

6row) ch, dec, 16sc, dec-18sc  

We tie the entire top to sc, break the thread and hide it.  

Sew on buttons.  


We collect the required amount of ch for the straps, in my case it is 30ch and plus 7 ch for the eyelet. And that 37ch.  

Then we go to 30ch and knit 30hdc to the end. We cut the thread and sew on the strap.  

We knit the second strap in the same way.  


(Jeans yarn from YarnArt, hook number 3)  

1row) 8 sc into magic ring  

2row) 8inc-16sc  

3row) (1sc, inc) х 8 times – 24sc  

4row) (2sc, inc) х 8 times – 32sc  

5row) 32sc for back half loop  

6-15rows) – 32sc  

16row) (3sc, 1ch, skip 1 loop) x to the end of the row.  

17row) sc in a circle, where the arch is knit sc under the arch.  

We break the thread and hide it.  


1row) 8 sc into magic ring  

2row) 8inc-16sc  

3row) (1sc, inc) х 8 times – 24sc  

4row) 3 sl-st, (2sc, inc) х 3 times, 4ch, (2sc, inc) х 3 times, 3sl-st.  

We break the thread, leaving a long thread and with this thread we sew the valve to the back wall of the backpack for 2-3 loops.  

We attach the thread on one side above the valve, dial 10ch for the handle and connect to the other. We tie the handle 10-12sc. We break the thread and hide it.  

We make cords from the ch chain and pass them through the holes. We tighten and tie. Sew on the button.  

Well, our doll is ready! 

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